i burnt up my ammeter, now what. 7/4/13--- UPDATE

[K9COP]

Nice. Thank you Sir.

CS

[lukedukem]

Can anyone tell me where the negitive wire from the battery goes. I tried using some pics but cannot tell from them.

Luke

[Pete in NH]

Hi Luke,

It will connect directly to the engine block. I don't have a 69, but on my 71 383 it is bolted under the very front intake manifold bolt on the driver's side. I'm sure someone with a 69 big block will jump in and tell you where it bolts on.

[lukedukem]

Thanks Pete. I thought that's where it goes. But instead that's where they decided to put the Engine ground, then it goes down below the power steering pump to the frame. I know that doesn't belong there. That one goes back side I believe.

Luke

[lukedukem]

can anyone tell me how the engine harness is routed. does it go clockwise over the driversdie or toward the passanger side then around to the horns... i removed everything cause it was wrong and i'm starting from scratch.

luke

[b5blue]

From the bulkheads across the firewall then forward along the passengers side between the intake and valve cover to the coil, then dizzy, down to Alt. and out past it to the horns. At least that's how on my 70. 

[lukedukem]

From the bulkheads across the firewall then forward along the passengers side between the intake and valve cover to the coil, then dizzy, down to Alt. and out past it to the horns. At least that's how on my 70. 

Thanks b5. I thought that was the way.

Luke

[lukedukem]

made progress last night. got my battery tray installed and coil and orange box...
can anyone tell me if those two holes by teh bulk head is where the starter solinoid goes?
luke

[chargd72]

Who's burt?

[lukedukem]

Who's burt?

luke

[chargd72]

Who's burt?

luke

Just poking fun at the spelling in the thread title.

[lukedukem]

Who's burt?

luke

Just poking fun at the spelling in the thread title.

  i just now noticed that. i'm not changing it

luke

[lukedukem]

i test fitted the 120amp alt. i got from macini... it looks to be a good fit. progress

luke

[K9COP]

You oly just oticed it? Ha!, makes me smile everytime I read it. Do't you dare chage it! Who eeds 'n's ayway?

I assume the starter soleoid is on the starter itself, did't check my car yet. Let me know if you eed me to.


Which two holes you talkig about? Arrows on the pictures you must put, Luke.


CS

[lukedukem]

i circled them in red. i ment Starter Relay

[K9COP]

Hey Luke. Not checked my car yet (it's a wrapped up pending the loom repair) but if you mean starter relay as opposed to starter solenoid, is it just where the relay mounts to the firewall? If not, hit me back and I'll go and uncover my car and check it. I can imagine it's just holes to bolt the relay to the firewall, but let me know and I'll check if you need me to. 

CS

[lukedukem]

Hey Luke. Not checked my car yet (it's a wrapped up pending the loom repair) but if you mean starter relay as opposed to starter solenoid, is it just where the relay mounts to the firewall? If not, hit me back and I'll go and uncover my car and check it. I can imagine it's just holes to bolt the relay to the firewall, but let me know and I'll check if you need me to. 

CS

na. thats what i was wondering.... just need to find bolt to go there.

luke

[Pete in NH]

Hi Luke,

Yes, those look like the starter relay mounting holes. The factory usually used something like #12 sheet metal screws. You might want to use real 1/4 - 20 bolts, nuts and lockwashers as so many times on old cars those holes get stripped out.

[lukedukem]

Hi Luke,

Yes, those look like the starter relay mounting holes. The factory usually used something like #12 sheet metal screws. You might want to use real 1/4 - 20 bolts, nuts and lockwashers as so many times on old cars those holes get stripped out.

thanks pete.

luke

[K9COP]

While we're talking electrics and protection Luke, did you see this post?

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,168.0.html

CS

[lukedukem]

While we're talking electrics and protection Luke, did you see this post?

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,168.0.html

CS

NICE!
i do have a relay for my electric fuel pump already, and i did think about doing this also for lights. thanks for that link too. it does seem like it will be easy to follow

luke

[lukedukem]

so i have my new alt. from amncini installed and i started to install my new engine harness. when i got to the alt. it got confusing and i hope that b5 can help since he has one too. it says to get rid of the voltage regulator. now is this the same as alt. regulator? i have posted a pic of what i think they want me to do away with. then the wireing of the alt. is diff. too. b5 can you help me out.

luke

[b5blue]

OK were going to be adding 1 wire and a solid state (70 up style.) voltage regulator so we'll need a connector for that also. I'll get into my FSM and check the exact tie-in points to your harness. PM sent 

[Pete in NH]

Hi Luke,

That highlight relay upgrade is a good one to make and I'll be doing it on my 71. It will give brighter lights and takes a big current load off the bulk head connector pins and dash board highlight switch.

The Chrysler voltage regulator your looking for if it's a stock electronic type is 4529794. That's a really big alternator at 120 Amps. The stock wiring harness may not be up to dealing with all that current. The stock wiring harness used something like #12 wire for the alternator output. You're going to want something like #6 to handle that big alternator. Also, at that current level you're going to want to go to a voltmeter as the stock dash board ammeter will never handle all the current even with the bulk head connector bypass.

[lukedukem]

OK were going to be adding 1 wire and a solid state (70 up style.) voltage regulator so we'll need a connector for that also. I'll get into my FSM and check the exact tie-in points to your harness. PM sent 

thanks neil, i sent you your request.

Hi Luke,

That highlight relay upgrade is a good one to make and I'll be doing it on my 71. It will give brighter lights and takes a big current load off the bulk head connector pins and dash board highlight switch.

The Chrysler voltage regulator your looking for if it's a stock electronic type is 4529794. That's a really big alternator at 120 Amps. The stock wiring harness may not be up to dealing with all that current. The stock wiring harness used something like #12 wire for the alternator output. You're going to want something like #6 to handle that big alternator. Also, at that current level you're going to want to go to a voltmeter as the stock dash board ammeter will never handle all the current even with the bulk head connector bypass.

well that sucks, i guess i should've chekceedd that before ordering it. well, i'll see what neil sends me. but i have nachos upgrade done and ready.

thanks
luke