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Need OEM amp gauge (HELP!)

Started by 68HAPPY, October 21, 2013, 03:21:23 PM

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68HAPPY

Hello, everyone.  I was just added as a member today, & I couldn't be more stoked about it!  I LOVE Mopars, & as you can see by my user name...am a little biased toward 1968's.

I haven't had time to comb-through all the posts to see if this particular issue has been addressed previously.  Please forgive me if it has.javascript:void(0);

Anyway, speaking of '68, my project has been held up a bit b/c I need to replace my original, which was ruined in a fire.  For over a month, I've been searching unsuccessfully for a good, useable ('68-'70) OEM gauge.  I've been told hundreds of thousands (if not, millions) were produced, but I haven't been able to find one, yet.  I was also told I should be able to find one for $20-$60.  I'm willing to pay more if I have to in order to move forward.  For an OEM gauge that's ready to go immediately, I'd consider paying up to $80 (MAYBE $100).  I have some misc. extra parts I plan to sell, but I'm open to negotiating/trading.

I'm a little gun-shy about providing contact info thanks to Craigslist scammers, but if I get a good response to these posts, I will do what's necessary for us to connect.  Thanks in advance for any help, comments, advice, leads, etc.

Also see my post from today in the "Online swapmeet" section (parts and accessories).

cdr

LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

68HAPPY

Thanks for the quick response, but I really want to install OEM.  I will clarify that on my posts.  Thanks again.

PS: Sweet car in your profile pic!

twodko

Nothing wrong with being a purist.......lots of us are including myself. When you find a working OEM gauge chances are the face of it will not match your other gauges in terms of how faded it/they may be. If you have the dash out already or plan on it to replace this gauge, buy a reface kit and do all your instruments. Refacing gauges is easy, the kits are inexpensive and they will look new.

With all that said 2nd gen Charger amp gauges have caused many, many fires in these cars. Most owners either bypass the amp gauge or send it out to have it made into a volt gauge.
If you're adamant about keeping the OEM amp gauge in your dash. Reface it and bypass it.  :Twocents:
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

68HAPPY

Thanks.  I'm ready to reface...all others in my cluster are done.  Later, I'll post the site of the company from which the faces came....supposed to be the best in the country.  I'll definately look into the conversion to voltmeter.  My original can't be rebuilt due to that very thing-previous owner had a fire.  Theory is the nut(s) came loose, causing a short.  Luckily, car wasn't lost...only some wires, along w/gauge, of course.

Thanks again for the help.  I love this site already.

lukedukem

i believe i have one in the shop. i can look when i get home. but i'm pretty sure. and it's OEM. from a 69 charger tho, if that matters.

luke
1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC

Ghoste


Pete in NH

Converting to a voltmeter is certainly an option. I do think the ammeters in these cars can have their safety and reliability greatly increased by making sure the connections on the ammeter studs are clean, tight and using lockwashers or jam nuts to make sure they stay tight. Also, running a stock size alternator, 45 amps maximum, and installing the Chrysler fleet bypass modification will go along way toward making the system more reliable. I also like the idea of replacing the fusible link with a newer Maxi Fuse of about 50 to 60 amps.

myk

Quote from: Pete in NH on October 22, 2013, 08:07:24 AM
Converting to a voltmeter is certainly an option. I do think the ammeters in these cars can have their safety and reliability greatly increased by making sure the connections on the ammeter studs are clean, tight and using lockwashers or jam nuts to make sure they stay tight. Also, running a stock size alternator, 45 amps maximum, and installing the Chrysler fleet bypass modification will go along way toward making the system more reliable. I also like the idea of replacing the fusible link with a newer Maxi Fuse of about 50 to 60 amps.

Unless you're building a garage/trailer/car show queen that won't even get turned on, I still don't understand why people insist on running that stock 'amp gauge setup.  AT LEAST perform the Chrysler fleet bypass 'mod and help keep your car from burning to the ground...
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Pete in NH

I don't see keeping the ammeter as a matter of how the car is driven as much as what a ammeter tells you versus a a voltmeter. An ammeter tells you whether current is actually flowing in or out of the battery. A voltmeter tells you whether you have the possibility of current flow in or out of the battery but not actual current flow. For example, if you  have an 11.8 volt reading on your voltmeter but, your battery is up at 12.6 volts, you will not have any current flow. There is an old analogy to water flow and pressure. Water flow is like electrical current (amps), water pressure is like electrical potential ( volts). You can have static pressure but no flow.

That's why I prefer to keep an ammeter. I don't see the ammeter system as being anymore of a fire issue if properly maintained and upgraded than any other system on our cars. A 40+ year-old system of any type that has been neglected and poorly maintained is a problem period. Just my opinion, everyone has to make these kinds of decisions about what they think is safe or unsafe.

b5blue

  Do yourself a favor and just buy a new "OER" brand gauge even if you use the sticker in your kit to match face texture. The OER is rated @ 60 amp...much safer and new, again much safer. It's the only gauge that sees full volt/amp working pressure in the dash.  :2thumbs: I doubt anyone would ever know it's in there! 

lukedukem

Quote from: b5blue on October 23, 2013, 04:46:45 PM
  Do yourself a favor and just buy a new "OER" brand gauge even if you use the sticker in your kit to match face texture. The OER is rated @ 60 amp...much safer and new, again much safer. It's the only gauge that sees full volt/amp working pressure in the dash.  :2thumbs: I doubt anyone would ever know it's in there! 

68HAPPY, what b5blue said is what i actually id to mine, and it works great.  and after refacing all the guages noone can tell.
it is something to think about. but if you still want to buy OEM one PM me. i do have an OEM one i bought before buying the 60 AMP rated one

luke
1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC

Dino

The stock gauges can be found on ebay from time to time but honestly, nobody would ever know the difference between that and the ones rated at 60 amps.

I don't think you can buy the decal for the ammeter alone either so you'd be spending a bit extra.

I agree that the ammeter is fine as long as the electrical system is in good order, which on these cars is usually an issue.  I bypassed mine but it would have read incorrect due to my electrical mods anyway.

When I read your post I got a bit nervous, I though you lost the whole car in a fire, not just the gauge.  I did lose my 68 to a fire many years ago.  Still hurts to think about it.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.