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400 big block

Started by 71Charger1996, August 26, 2013, 01:33:51 PM

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71Charger1996

I have 1971 Charger with a 400 Big Block. It will haul ass by itself but I'm tired of all of my friends that love the "Pieces of Chevy." Any very cheap advice so I can show them the meaning of a true Mopar.

JB400

Welcome to the forum :cheers:  What's your combination?  What aftermarket goodies do you have?

71Charger1996

I have only had it about a year now. I've personally never been past the valve covers. It does about 96 in the 1/4. Im sitting in my Vo-Tech class as i type getting crap from my Chevy friends.

71Charger1996

Thank you for the welcome by the way. Its nice to talk to some mopar guys. I mean she will go by herself but I've been beat by a new chevy truck with a programmer and a 2011 G6. I've learned to race since then but I'd like to be able to brag and back it up for sure

ralley72

Welcome to the site. There always room for another 3rd gen. Post some pictures and just ignore those other guys.

Mike
1973 Roadrunner 400 mag. 4 sp

71Charger1996

Do they not take kindly to Chargers after 70? It is a 73 motor that was in it when we bought it.

JB400

Any idea as to what gears you have in the rear?  Does it have a sure grip?

Chevy guys are just cheapskates.  They can't afford a real car let alone know what a real one is.  They're jealous because we have one of the most beautifully designed cars that's ever been mass produced.

71Charger1996

I have no idea. I really wanna learn and thats why i got on here. No I have no idea

71Charger1996

The car has been a very confusing project. One minute I get told its an SE then its not then the original color was Plum Crazy then told it wasnt. It has been an uphill battle to just find out the basics

JB400

There should be a metal tag on the left side of the engine bay above the tire.  It will have a bunch of letters and numbers.  That will tell you what the car originally come with as options. 

As far telling if you have a sure grip, jack up the rear of the car and turn one of the tires.  If they both turn the same way, you have a sure grip.  You'll have to put the car in neutral if it's an automatic.

Does your car have a 2 bbl carb or a 4 bbl?  Headers or manifolds?

Challenger340

Like everything else...all it takes is Money. When the time comes, you have an excellent platform in the 400 Block/B-Body combo.

IMO,
Cheapest, Quickest, bang for buck upgrades are a bit of compression, mild Cam & 4 BBL if it isn't a 4BBL already ?

A lot of those year Chargers were "2 BBL" 400 Engines from new, so, if it has the 4 BBL it may have been added later ?
Without getting too long winded...the 2 BBL Camshaft is GARBAGE, not even enough duration to take advantage of a 4 BBL carb when added, so include a Camshaft in your plans when the time comes. The Factory "HP" Resto Cam from CompCams or their 268H is a good starting point, and still retains the smooth idle.

Nice Cars those !
Only wimps wear Bowties !

ODZKing

Welcome.
A Charger SE is usually WP29 in the third gen variety. If it is 21, 23 or 27 it is not an SE.
The next letter won't help you much excet to tell you what engine you HAD in the car.
G-318, H-340, J-340 six pac, K-360, L-383, N-383 HP, R-426, T-440, U-440, V-440 six pac.
The next letter is year, should be a 1 and the next is built plant. Probably A or G.

71Charger1996

Alright the fender tag is what you are describing I guess? It has been removed at some point. The motor it came with was a 318 2brl according to the VIN. It has a 400 4brl right now and as far as what is inside I have no idea

mauve66

also need to count the driveshaft revs in one turn of the tire, rear end gear will make a difference in what you want, feel, be happy with
Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment

JB400

What are the first 4 digits of the vin?  That will give you model of car you have.  As Odzking mentioned, if it is WP29, then it is an SE.

Kern Dog

I used to be a Chevy guy for awhile. It WAS nice to have access to performance parts at cheap prices. I bought a rebuild kit for my 350 in 1999 for $150 ! It had cast pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, an oil pump and freeze plugs. I had to pay $50 extra for the cam and lifters.
Now with nothing but Mopars in my "inventory" I am accustomed to the costs of building and maintaining them. I've learned that some of their engineering that once appeared strange to me is actually brilliant. The Torsion bar/rear steer design is a pisser for headers but fantastic for weight balance and handling. The deep skirt design of the big blocks add strength to the point where a 4 bolt main isn't necessary until you exceed 600 HP. The oil system is nearly flawless. The shaft mounted rockers adds stability without a weight penalty.
There are many solid examples of great engineering to these cars, but what hooked me first is the styling. I went bonkers for the 68-70 Charger when I was a kid. The TV shows and movies obviously liked them too.
The 71-74 Chargers are better looking than the same year Plymouths. The 400 engine was born into a legacy of low compression and smog compliance, but it responds to all the same tricks that any other American V8 does. Compression, Camshaft, Head flow, Carburetion and exhaust. 2 or 4 barrel, they were all built with either 7.8 or 8.2 compression. At the same time, the cars that they were installed in were getting heavier and the axle ratios were dropping. Imagine the stunning performance of a 4200 lb Charger 400-4 with a 2.76 axle.....
Now if you take a few lbs out of the car, build that 400 to even stock 440 Magnum specs and add a 3.91 gear, you'd be in the 14s. Thats as good as many of our "hero" cars did when they were new. Stroke that 400 to 496 inches and cam it right....11s are within your reach.

Cooter


Chevy people are like sheeple. They go for what will guarantee them NOT to have to go through the sh*t they put you through and they know there's strength in numbers. Unless you have a rich daddy that is as fed up with Chevy idiots as you, your destined to spend. A LOT of money trying to make a VERY heavy car get respect in the stoplight benchracing challenges.

Welcome to the board and don't mean to hurt both your feelings, but have already been there and done this with my own son and his 440, 4speed 66belvedere. I told him to just be content knowing he isn't a sheeple and enjoy the Mopars with people who count...
That truck abd G6? BOTH were paid up front for what they got. At least 15-20k...
No, there's no free advice that will put within two car lenghs with a smog 400...
As mentioned though, spend some cash and they will know what the tail lights look like. There's a reason you youngins call us 40somethins "old rich guys"..we finally are making enough money to spend a few bucks in the cars e loved since your age.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

71Charger1996

Yea money is the key issue here. My dad and I are both Mopar guys and I actually just told some people that they only liked Chevy because it was popular. I am trying what I can to do with what I have. My first numbers are WH23. My sail panel has the chrysler three pointed star and cursive special edition emblems. I guess that makes it a clone and I would be more than happy to take them off if it is a clone. The truck owner had a rich farmer dad and the G6 was before I knew how to race. My car will hold its own but I'd like to talk smack and know for sure I have what it takes.

tan top

hello & welcome  :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:  400 block is a good choice for a stroker motor when funds allow ,
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

71Charger1996

Just went a jacked my car up and spun the wheel. It isnt a sure-grip

71Charger1996

Alright it is a 73 400 4BRL. You said it is great for a stroker. What all needs to be done and if possible give me some prices. I hate to ask but could you dumb it down? I'm 16 and trying to keep a heritage alive. It has a 10 bolt rear end if that means anything? The crazy part is, I have no idea what has been done to that motor because it is already in the high 11 low 12 range from my opinion

cdr

a 12.00 is about 112 mph in the 1/4,that would be about 450 hp... the ONLY way to know is TAKE IT TO THE TRAC.
QUOTE FROM OP
I have only had it about a year now. I've personally never been past the valve covers. It does about 96 in the 1/4. Im sitting in my Vo-Tech class as i type getting crap from my Chevy friends.

Your ET / MPH computed from your vehicle weight of 3900 pounds and HP of 290 is 13.85 seconds and MPH of 96.73 MPH.
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

71Charger1996

Oh ok thank you. Alright yea I may go do another test on a road soon because when I did the 96 I didnt build up RPMs at all. Yea I mean correct me anytime I am wrong because I'm on here to learn and get help.

JB400

Stroker engine kits are quite expensive. You'd need a new crank, rods, and pistons.  If it was me, I think I'd get the Sure Grip. That will get both wheels turning instead of just one.  Here's what they go for new in Summit.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4529273/  You should be able to find them at swap meets at a cheaper price.  I'd also check to see what your current gear ratio is. 3:23 gears would be about right for a street car.  You could step up to 3:55's, but you'd start revving your engine higher going down the highway.  You will accelerate quicker with the 3:55's though.  Here is a nice article about the Sure Grips.   http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1210_sure_grip_chrysler_differential_swap/

Daytona R/T SE

Did you get this car to please yourself, or to please your so-called "friends"?  :shruggy:

It's far easier, cheaper and more satisfying in the long run to just get better friends. :Twocents:

cdr

Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on August 27, 2013, 05:22:25 PM
Did you get this car to please yourself, or to please your so-called "friends"?  :shruggy:

It's far easier, cheaper and more satisfying in the long run to just get better friends. :Twocents:

WELL said  :2thumbs: :yesnod:
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

JB400

Quote from: cdr on August 27, 2013, 05:26:44 PM
Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on August 27, 2013, 05:22:25 PM
Did you get this car to please yourself, or to please your so-called "friends"?  :shruggy:

It's far easier, cheaper and more satisfying in the long run to just get better friends. :Twocents:

WELL said  :2thumbs: :yesnod:
I'll have to agree with that as well.

71Charger1996

No I got it because I love old cars and I grew up with "Mopar or No Car". I'm wanting to build it up to the best it can be for myself well before my friends ever started. I'm not rich by any means and I just love old cars. The want to build it up is because of me the eagerness and impatience is caused by my friends. I'm aware that the 400 isn't great but I can't go to my bank and pull out $10,000 so for now I am wanting advice and help.

Cooter

Quote from: 71Charger1996 on August 27, 2013, 03:56:08 PM
Yea money is the key issue here.  My car will hold its own but I'd like to talk smack and know for sure I have what it takes.
First mistake as a rookie. Don't worry, we all have made the same one. Now,what some good advice? Talking smack cost a lot of money how much smack can you afford to talk? Again, you don't need to worry bout putting Mopar on the map. Plenty here have that covered.
Just enjoy the car or I'm afraid another charger may end up crashed. Trying to prove something to a bunch s**t talkers.
Posy spmr pics of rngine and your ride, along with what it had for carb, intake, etc.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

71Charger1996

Here is the car that I am working so hard at.

Cooter

Pic of engine with air cleaner removed. Use you good camera
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

JB400

Looks great. :drool5:  I think your buddies are jealous.  Let them talk while you enjoy the ride

71Charger1996

Here is the best motor pic I could get


Cooter

Well, the first thing that is fairly cheap, would be aftermarket aluminum intake better carburetor, not necessarily bigger, but better. Also, I see factory manifolds a good set of headers would definitely benefit. Don't know how attached you are too that factory a A/C, but removing it removes weight. A set of gears will wake it up as well.
Other than these cheap mods, anything else will require money..
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

71Charger1996

The Air Compressor will be removed and the rest I will look into. Any more advice

Cooter

I could suggest a set of closed chamber heads. but, with aluminum heads today it's not worth the money to rebuild iron heads. You really need to increase the compression in order for a performance camshaft to work well.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

71Charger1996

I was told to see how many times the drive shaft turns with the wheel. I got 3 turns per one turn (3:1) is this good or bad?

Cooter

Most likely 3.23 gears.   Not really good for stop light jaunts..
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

cudaken


71 Charger 1996, first good looking Charger!

Well you do have HP exhaust manifolds and that is a big plus! :2thumbs: Personally I would leave then a lone. It is not till you get a nasty cam that headers will help.

Far as running 11's or 12's at this point, well you would have all ready shit your self and would not be asking for help to go faster!  :smilielol:

A good tune will wake a big block up a lot! First find what your timing is sat at, then the total advances your disturber (did I spell that right?) has. You want around 32 degrees before TDC at 3200 RPM's.

Next I would check to see if the carb open's all the way with the gas pedal is to the floor. (not running) I have seen more that a few cars where the throttle blades are not all the way open when floored!

Then setting the Carb up right. With it being a Carter I have no clue.

Exhaust, does it have H pipes or an X Pipe or just duals pipes that don't connect the 2 sides? If yours are 2 single pipes with a 2 inch ID 2.5 inch pipes with a H pipe installed will be worth around 10 to 15 HP. I think a X pipe system is around a 25 HP gain.  :scratchchin:

I dare say all the Magazines Road Test Cars where super tuned before they where given to the writers to test drive. A good tune will lower your ET around .30 to .60 in the quarter mile.

There can be a lot found in a stock 400 with some work out with buying stuff!

According to my old Bible most 400's made around 250 HP. With a 3900 pound car that would be around a 15.34 in a quarter mile. Sound slow right?    :scratchchin: It is not! It will put a grin on your faces and feels fast! I have owned my 68 Road Runner for 40 years and that Is where I started.

Yes we all want faster, but a solid 13.00 car is very quick and will pucker your ass cheeks!     :nana:

Number 1 Rule in bench racing with your friends? They are lying about how much HP they have or the times they are running!  :smilielol: I have pasted a many reported 11's cars with a mid 13's second car!  :smilielol: :rofl:

Cuda Ken


 
I am back

71Charger1996

Thank you very much Ken. I just ran my car today and although it was a stop watch it ran a high 13. What could cause this to be if it should be 15s? That car surprises me everyday. The specs and setup everyone calls slow but it ram dang good today

JB400

Sounds like someone built up a healthy 400 before you acquired it.

71Charger1996

That is my belief also. I don't have the money right now to have it broke down and checked but I sure wish I did. And I promise im not blowing smoke to sound cool im being honest cause o want honest help

chargd72

I would suggest upgrading your ignition system as well.  One of the best mods I've done so far.  And yes, it quickened up my throttle repsonse.

          '72 Charger SE 4bbl 318                          '76 Power Wagon 400 W200                                 2011 (attempt at a) Charger

ACUDANUT

It's always going to be about money.  Welcome to the site.  :cheers:

Cooter

Quote from: 71Charger1996 on August 27, 2013, 11:34:47 PM
Thank you very much Ken. I just ran my car today and although it was a stop watch it ran a high 13. What could cause this to be if it should be 15s? That car surprises me everyday. The specs and setup everyone calls slow but it ram dang good today
leeme let you in on a little secret.....
Take to the track and you'll see. I can't tell you how many 10 second "drag cars" turn out to be 14 second "street cars"at the track....
No way in hell your gonna tell anything with stopwatch....what was your 60ft. Time? What was your reaction time???
Did you cut a perfect light???
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

ACUDANUT

No way a dog leg car, can do a 13 sec. 1/4 mile. :Twocents:

mauve66

Quote from: ACUDANUT on August 28, 2013, 12:00:07 PM
No way a dog leg car, can do a 13 sec. 1/4 mile. :Twocents:

fyi
dog leg - non-suregrip
Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment

71Charger1996

If you're in Missouri come over and I will gladly show you. No disrespect but im doing what I can how I can I don't have the money to drive 70 miles to the nearest drag. I'm not shit talking I ran a high 13 or maybe low 14 then. I'm sorry guys I just want advice not why my car should be slow o get that enough. I'm not saying I know more buy i am saying i have been in my car when it goes down the road and I'm sorry to sound like an ass but i get told why it should be slow by people who have never been in it. Like i said it always surprises me

Cooter

If it wasn't slow and surprizes you on a regular basis, then why are you asking bout upgrades?? Making it a "beast"?
Sounds like you would love to here someone tell you what you want to hear...
That ain't me...Sorry. maybe you really did get the only 4000 3rd gen that actually hauls ass with it's stock 400...
Sorry for trying to help.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

ws23rt

Quote from: 71Charger1996 on August 28, 2013, 03:45:12 PM
If you're in Missouri come over and I will gladly show you. No disrespect but im doing what I can how I can I don't have the money to drive 70 miles to the nearest drag. I'm not shit talking I ran a high 13 or maybe low 14 then. I'm sorry guys I just want advice not why my car should be slow o get that enough. I'm not saying I know more buy i am saying i have been in my car when it goes down the road and I'm sorry to sound like an ass but i get told why it should be slow by people who have never been in it. Like i said it always surprises me


You are not sounding like an ass. You are sounding like someone that is learning. And you came to the right place to get that help.
If you get an answer that is not what you want to hear than take a time out and consider maybe you missed something :shruggy:

You will hear much from your friends and bench racers that move you to answer them.  It is best to hold your tongue with them a bit.

I get a kick out of those that will build a giant truck that needs a step ladder to get in it and they never take it off the road :lol:
They are showing their friends what their truck may do with out ever having to prove it to them. (Think of the cost).

My favorite thing in the street car world is sleepers.  They don't explain themselves. They prove themselves.

I had a 68 Hemi RR for years and had 383 hood tags on it (I got tired of the attention).  It was my daily transport and there were many times I answered another drivers question about it.  :nana:

You can make your car do almost anything you want but ask yourself the question.  Is it for you?   Or is it others?

After all it is your money you will be spending :cheers:

Btw Cooter gets right to the point but will not steer you wrong.  :P

firefighter3931

Nice looking Charger !  :2thumbs:

Get it on a chassis dyno and see what kind of power it's making and where the power comes in & levels off. Based on that Data we can make meaningful recommendations for increased performance.  :yesnod:

There are ways to make a smogger perform better  ;)


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

71Charger1996

I really thank everyone for their help. I know I just get kind of aggravated about the car because my dad got injured at work and its kinda been our bonding point which is why I defend it so much. And Ron how much does a dyno roughly run? Price wise

cudaken

Quote from: Cooter on August 28, 2013, 11:51:59 AM
Quote from: 71Charger1996 on August 27, 2013, 11:34:47 PM
Thank you very much Ken. I just ran my car today and although it was a stop watch it ran a high 13. What could cause this to be if it should be 15s? That car surprises me everyday. The specs and setup everyone calls slow but it ram dang good today
leeme let you in on a little secret.....
Take to the track and you'll see. I can't tell you how many 10 second "drag cars" turn out to be 14 second "street cars"at the track....
No way in hell your gonna tell anything with stopwatch....what was your 60ft. Time? What was your reaction time??? Did you cut a perfect light???

While Cooter sounds a little harass he does speak the truth. If you are going to test on a back road, you need to mark out a quarter mile, have a flag person and someone timing from the finishes line. You PM me you ran a 13.70, with taking .5 second to hit the watch on start and .5 again to kill the watch that is    
14.70 and that still is a dam good time!

Couple of things, can you take a video with sound of the car at idle? Most of up here will have a good idea in the cam is stock or something bigger. If it is a Auto, take the video in gear.

Better Picture if you can. In the engine photo some of your hoses look to be braid stainless steel, not cheap! But, they could be slip on covers.

What part of MO do you live in? I live in Maryville IL, might as well say it is St Louis MO. I am 14 miles from the Arch. I be happy to look over what you have, I do like to help people when I can.

Cuda Ken, hoping to me you. :coolgleamA:
I am back

71Charger1996

im from around Kennet. Yea I could do something like that definitely. They are slip on I chopped cotton to buy that and the valve covers.

cudaken

 Well you are 226 miles from me, boy that would be a haul!  :shruggy:

Ken
I am back

71Charger1996

Maybe we could split halfway sometime

71Charger1996

Oh and I was the watch guy at the finish my dad was driving and he spun a bit and the sound as it passed was amazing on a more personal note. Ha.

cudaken


Don't they have a AP for Smart Phones with GPS that can give you quarter mile times?  :scratchchin: If they do, I might need a smart phone.  :lol:

Ken
I am back


ACUDANUT

Cuda Ken, I have Kin folk in Freeburg IL.  :cheers: