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Under hood switched 12v source???

Started by rebby, June 18, 2015, 10:47:01 AM

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rebby

I'm looking for a switched 12v source under the hood on my 1969. I've upgraded the wiring to the 1970 style electronic ignition harness, which is a brand new repop, and would really prefer to tap into a wire where my tap can easily be hidden if possible (i.e.; not the voltage regulator or the ballast resistor). I don't have the dash harness fully installed yet so I can't just grab the multi-meter and start looking. Can anybody offer any suggestions? This tap will simply be a trigger for a few relays so current draw won't be an issue. I also don't need this to be hot during cranking (relays are for fans and horns).

Thanks in advance!
Curt Rebelein, Junior
1969 Charger R/T SE (500 Stroker/833/D60 w/XP VIN)
1969 Charger (440/727/8.75, GL Project)

nascarxx29

  :Twocents: How about inside the car at the column same wire that's on the single side of ballast.It should be blue with with tracer. Or tap into the harness underhood for same wire just retape were you tapped in.? There are other underhood tap sources not sure about them for use. wiper motor heater blower
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

John_Kunkel

The blue wire that feeds the ballast resistor and voltage regulator is the most handy place to tap switched 12V. A double-tap spade connector makes for an almost unnoticeable connection.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

rebby

Quote from: John_Kunkel on June 18, 2015, 01:22:25 PM
The blue wire that feeds the ballast resistor and voltage regulator is the most handy place to tap switched 12V. A double-tap spade connector makes for an almost unnoticeable connection.

I have a 1970 style double ballast resistor so that, unfortunately, won't work for me. Unless I can tap another connector???
Curt Rebelein, Junior
1969 Charger R/T SE (500 Stroker/833/D60 w/XP VIN)
1969 Charger (440/727/8.75, GL Project)

nascarxx29

I used those piggy backs.there similar to whats on the backside of fuseboxes
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

nascarxx29

double ballast you mean 4 prong .And not 2 as regulary used
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

rebby

Quote from: nascarxx29 on June 18, 2015, 01:26:13 PM
double ballast you mean 4 prong .And not 2 as regulary used


Correct. Like this one.
Curt Rebelein, Junior
1969 Charger R/T SE (500 Stroker/833/D60 w/XP VIN)
1969 Charger (440/727/8.75, GL Project)

xoman60

Rebby I recently upgraded my 69 to the 70 and later charging system. Which alternator did you go with?

rebby

Quote from: xoman60 on June 18, 2015, 08:17:35 PM
Rebby I recently upgraded my 69 to the 70 and later charging system. Which alternator did you go with?

I went with the Tuff Stuff Performance 8509RFDP. Direct bolt in w/the stock brackets, 100amps, dual groove pulley, and plugs into the 70 wiring harness without modifications.
Curt Rebelein, Junior
1969 Charger R/T SE (500 Stroker/833/D60 w/XP VIN)
1969 Charger (440/727/8.75, GL Project)

John_Kunkel

Quote from: rebby on June 18, 2015, 01:24:16 PM
Quote from: John_Kunkel on June 18, 2015, 01:22:25 PM
The blue wire that feeds the ballast resistor and voltage regulator is the most handy place to tap switched 12V. A double-tap spade connector makes for an almost unnoticeable connection.

I have a 1970 style double ballast resistor so that, unfortunately, won't work for me. Unless I can tap another connector???

The blue/yellow wire on the dual-ballast system is IGN1...12V with the key in the Run position.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Dino

Alternatively you can tap the power from an underdash source, like the ignition switch, and run the wire to the bulkhead connector to make it look stock.  When I did my electrical I removed several stock wires and ran new wires through the bulkhead connector.

This may be more trouble than it's worth but just a thought.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

rebby

Quote from: Dino on June 19, 2015, 08:45:41 PM
Alternatively you can tap the power from an underdash source, like the ignition switch, and run the wire to the bulkhead connector to make it look stock.  When I did my electrical I removed several stock wires and ran new wires through the bulkhead connector.

This may be more trouble than it's worth but just a thought.

I've been considering that. I need to tap that wire for another relay that will be getting installed inside the car anyway and I can easily piggy back that wire with 3 other wires that I have running through an inconspicuous spot in the firewall already. Chances are that I'll either go this route or tap the wire that John mentioned in the post right before yours. These projects are never ending, the closer I get to driving this car, the further away I feel. Thanks!
Curt Rebelein, Junior
1969 Charger R/T SE (500 Stroker/833/D60 w/XP VIN)
1969 Charger (440/727/8.75, GL Project)