Now Complete Restoration / Pulling my 1969 'Bee down for strip and paint

[birdsandbees]

Grout tool again works perfect to lift and roll the seal up and over the glass.

One corner in without breaking it.

Folding in the lock tab. Again more window cleaner and some finesse. Found starting in the middle and working to both ends was best.

Lock tab in place.

[birdsandbees]

Why can't someone make a caulking tube that doesn't do this?

All locked in.. no cracks! 3.5 hours start to finish including the lock strip in place and windshield cleaned.

Windshield 101 in the books. Rear glass will be next.

Rear window clip holes... this what you were asking about '74??

[birdsandbees]

A bit of "seal technique" for ya..

https://youtu.be/SLNNeQ48vwA

...and BTW... I can't imagine doing this job with the engine in place, or even the fenders for that matter!!! So nice to stand on top of a flipped over Coleman cooler in the engine bay and fit the rubber, etc without reaching 3+ feet from the outside.

[BLK 68 R/T]

Nice job on the windshield. Good reference for those that need to do it 

[alfaitalia]

Good job but.....! A lot quicker method is to seal the rubber in like you did then lay string into the channel the glass goes in. Make sure the string is right in the channel with at least a foot of string overlap....put the ends of the string at the bottom. Spray the rubber with silicone lube .Lay the glass on the rubber as central as possible and, whilst a helper pushes the glass firmly against the rubber, start pulling the string out at about a 45 degree angle up and away from the glass. This will pull the rubber up and around the glass and the pusher will feel the glass slowly sinking into the aperture as more string is pulled out and more rubber is pulled up over the glass. Always worked for me. Takes about 5 minutes after fitting the rubber.

[birdsandbees]

Yah, considered that but I work alone... that way there's nobody to blame but me when the top corners snap off like the "Pro's" did installing the glass to the Superbird on Grave Yard Cars!  

Also not so sure how you can rope in contoured glass that the rubber goes on the pinch seam first and then the glass gets installed to the gasket. Easy on an old Bronco that the rubber goes on the glass first. 

I did consider installing the glass up into the rubber top channel first and then "lip" the sides and bottom into place, but I would have needed the wife's help for that and considering we've been married for 34 years - 8 months I thought it would be great to make it to an even 35 years! 

[birdsandbees]

BTW.. the windshield rubber seal I used was Precision's WCR D715 to replace the OEM Chrysler 2811 263. National Moparts inventory number FWG16

[green69rt]

BTW.. the windshield rubber seal I used was Precision's WCR D715 to replace the OEM Chrysler 2811 263. National Moparts inventory number FWG16

So no type of sealant between windshield and gasket, only between gasket and pinch weld?  Nice job!

[birdsandbees]

Chrysler didn't do it, so neither did I ! Factory install, as shown on my original rubber gasket was across the bottom and 3" up the sides, no where else.

I don't plan on driving this in the rain if I can avoid it at this stage, and personally I think rubber on glass with no sealant will be good and will also dry out if water does get up in there, but I have seen a few installation notes where guys ran the butyl around the seal and then clipped the lock seam down.

[Charger-Bodie]

Windshield gaskets I've removed have commonly had a tan colored putty to seal it to the pinchweld .

[birdsandbees]

Just going by my never before removed gasket CB... shown a page or two back. Sealant (black Butyl) along the bottom and 3" up each side only. Lynch Road car..

I sealed all the way around the pinch weld on this install, but nothing in the glass channel.

[Charger-Bodie]

Sure. I usually lock the strip. Mask the windshield all the way around,unlock the strip.layna very small bead of sealant,then relook the strip. Unmask to remove most of the ooze and clean up the small remainder,and viola its sealed.

[birdsandbees]

Picked up my back glass, old door glass and my nicely polished stainless and rechromed parts today. I now have everything belonging to my car back home, except an AWOL hood latch release connection rod. They're still looking high and low but worried it wasn't returned from the platers with the door, hood and trunk latches.

My stainless has never looked this good and was beat up pretty good before being sent out. All dings removed, even welded in two holes that a glass installer put in the lower corners of the rear window trim back in '89 to get the trim to sit down with screws. Can't tell they welded at all and all polished out nice.

The bumper.. "can you see me now" !  

[birdsandbees]

 

[BDF]

At this rate you could be driving it again this summer!

[birdsandbees]

Might have the drive train back in and front end aligned, maybe fenders and hood back on but I'm running out of time before the "silly season" starts here in the next few weeks and I'll have to work on airplanes again and then head North to camp for the summer.

[birdsandbees]

Had to set the trim in place, just to have a look!

Sanding the epoxy primer on the air cleaner lid.

3 coats of Orange and looks like I'll be letting it sit a week and sanding it once again for another spray session

Oh the things the piss you off. One of the oldest restoration part suppliers.. Year One.. and they supply generic hose with their windshield squirter kit (they also supplied #10 vs correct #8 screws). Fortunately I'd previously bought a hose kit from National Moparts with the correct ribbed hose.

[birdsandbees]

Generic hose from Year One.

Correct Chrysler hose via National Moparts reselling another vendors WH5 kit.

[birdsandbees]

Ballast resistor, voltage regulator and new engine wiring harness into place.

New repro pedal and what I had removed. Head scratching, but looking at the one in my Superbird it matches the new one. Maybe the "old" was borrowed from somewhere else during my last clean up in 1988.. I don't know or remember.

So glad I pushed for a solvent based paint and not water. Used a brush to touch up the bare bolt ends on the battery box installation.

Bolt ends touched up to look right. All this stuff was originally bolted together BEFORE the factory painted a car... but I wasn't going for the tremclad overhaul look.

[Charger-Bodie]

Your new pedal is right. The other is a c body part.

[birdsandbees]

Your new pedal is right. The other is a c body part.

Thanks, must have stole it from the '69 Fury II before it went to the bone yard! 

[birdsandbees]

Realized I'd forgot a few clips.. another 40 bucks US..

Not too happy to realize I have to darn near remove the vacuum booster to install the headlight wiring harness clip though.

Even at this point I had to clip the lock tab a bit to get it in.

Wiring clip in place, reinforcing plate tightened back up ready to tighten the booster back up.

[birdsandbees]

Comparing new headlight harness to the original.

Only difference, the new one has pigtails for fender mount signal lights.

Harness loosely in place.

Always wondered what that hole was for in the inner fender! New harness came with the locator clip on it.

[birdsandbees]

Brake warning switch wire run through the clip that was still on the car some 48 years later.

Windshield washer squirters and hoses all in place

Almost forgot I have a manual choke on my carb that I'd never hooked up and when needed had to get under the hood and flip it. Perfect hole in lower dash for the control knob for a "hidden" installation.

Tried every auto parts store in town, and then the small engine shops and equipment supply houses. Nobody had a black covered cable.. so we improvise. Brought the choke cable out through the same grommet as the Ramcharger hood control cable.

[birdsandbees]

Slipped about 20" of 1/4 heat shrink tube over the cable.

That cleaned it up so it blends in. Need to cut the cable to length once the engine is in.

Transferring the original reverse switch wiring plug over to the new Brewers harness I bought. Brewers didn't bother to get the wire colours correct, but one wire not being purple won't change anything.

Orientation of the single and the pigtailed wire with respect to the shape of the connector. The extra wire jumpers to the very bottom drivers side spot on the firewall bulkhead connnector (the one open spot in the headlight harness). From there it goes to the reverse light on the lower dash.