'69 charger power drum issues

[ht4spd307]

what people don't realize the brakes take in air through the master cylinder there is a small hole on the top of the master cylinder lid and with time air with moisture gets in and into the oil leaving what you have rust it normally mixes with the oil changing the color as water gets trapped in the brake system .the brake system is and should be another part of a vehicles maintenance schedule just like an oil change i do mine once a year i drain mine with a vacuum pump as i fill the master cylinder as long as no air gets in as i do this the brakes don't need to be bled .by doing this yearly you ll find that you brake cylinders will almost last  a life time as its the dirty oil  that that damages the rubber seals.

[lukedukem]

Man there's a lot of options out there for these kits. I was kinda wanting to keep my drum spindles, but the link Charlie posted is cheaper. Plus I'm needing to replace my front end, I could do it all at the same time.
One issue still plagues me, the booster issue. These are high dollar, can I swap to manual brakes. Is it easy. If so what M/C do I use. What are you going with Charlie.

Luke

I have manual 4 drum, & going to use the stock master cyl, to do so the port on the master that goes to the front brakes i will remove the rp valve.

you can use the set up you have & do the same.

So i called Dr. diff and he recommends me buying the brake kit along with a new master cylinder and Bendix booster. that's 300 bucks, my drum booster is new, and i can find a new drum m/c for cheap and mod it to work. but when i asked about the removing the rp valve, he said i can try but he said because of the drum booster its not gonna effect anything. he really thinks i should buy all this stuff for a power brake simple install. which is what I'm going for but other kits are cheaper, like CPP. but i guess this is factory stuff?
Stage two brake kit 635.00 w/ drilled rotors
1 1/8 bore M/C for 75.00
Bendix Booster for 300.00
1 Piece Proportioning Valve  85.00
1,095 total.

Or like charlie was saying i can use my set up now and get a Drum M/C for 35.00 and mod it
brake kit for 635.00
not sure if i need the 1 Piece Proportioning Valve
try it to see if it works

Or get one of his m/c and keep my drum booster. and get the 1 Piece Proportioning Valve



Luke

[cdr]

Man there's a lot of options out there for these kits. I was kinda wanting to keep my drum spindles, but the link Charlie posted is cheaper. Plus I'm needing to replace my front end, I could do it all at the same time.
One issue still plagues me, the booster issue. These are high dollar, can I swap to manual brakes. Is it easy. If so what M/C do I use. What are you going with Charlie.

Luke

I have manual 4 drum, & going to use the stock master cyl, to do so the port on the master that goes to the front brakes i will remove the rp valve.

you can use the set up you have & do the same.

So i called Dr. diff and he recommends me buying the brake kit along with a new master cylinder and Bendix booster. that's 300 bucks, my drum booster is new, and i can find a new drum m/c for cheap and mod it to work. but when i asked about the removing the rp valve, he said i can try but he said because of the drum booster its not gonna effect anything. he really thinks i should buy all this stuff for a power brake simple install. which is what I'm going for but other kits are cheaper, like CPP. but i guess this is factory stuff?
Stage two brake kit 635.00 w/ drilled rotors
1 1/8 bore M/C for 75.00
Bendix Booster for 300.00
1 Piece Proportioning Valve  85.00
1,095 total.

Or like charlie was saying i can use my set up now and get a Drum M/C for 35.00 and mod it
brake kit for 635.00
not sure if i need the 1 Piece Proportioning Valve
try it to see if it works

Or get one of his m/c and keep my drum booster. and get the 1 Piece Proportioning Valve



Luke

I am going to try it without the proportioning valve, if it dont work i will get an adjustable one.

[lukedukem]

i am placing my order now. gonna get the stage 2 kit, with a 15/16" bore M/C for maximum line pressure and see if that works. i might get an adjustable proportioning valve to have on hand in case i need it.
at the same time I'm gonna order Moog front end kit and hotchkis sway bar for the front.
I'm in it for 1500 bucks now. not to mention if i need stuff when i get into taking it apart.
still need shocks and what rear leaf springs to get.
My budget is going fast. 

Luke

[cdr]

i am placing my order now. gonna get the stage 2 kit, with a 15/16" bore M/C for maximum line pressure and see if that works. i might get an adjustable proportioning valve to have on hand in case i need it.
at the same time I'm gonna order Moog front end kit and hotchkis sway bar for the front.
I'm in it for 1500 bucks now. not to mention if i need stuff when i get into taking it apart.
still need shocks and what rear leaf springs to get.
My budget is going fast. 

Luke

I understand

[303 Mopar]

I ordered the same Stage 2 kit from Cass with the booster because he told me it would not work with my current drum booster.  You can see the size difference, and I had to make the hole in the firewall larger.  Also, make sure you have the correct size wheel studs, they sent me ones that were too small.

[lukedukem]

I'm gonna take a chance and see if it works with drum booster. I'll keep you guys posted when it comes in

Luke

[cdr]

I'm gonna take a chance and see if it works with drum booster. I'll keep you guys posted when it comes in

Luke

        10-4   

[lukedukem]

OK, so I'm stuck on the torsion bars, should i replace them. my car was originally a 318 car, now a 383. not sure... if i do what size and where do i get them? do i need anything that goes with them? since I'm doing all my steering and suspension along with this brake upgrade i thought about these, just have to watch the budget. I'm ordering the Moog components today, and looking for a good shock to go with.
so what are yalls thoughts, will these 318 T-bars work, or upgrade to the .92 for 440 and hemi cars while I'm here?
i just remembered that i am trying to get all this done by July 4th
i took some pics of what i'm doing, here is with the drum assembly removed. what tools do i  need to remove these ball joints loose. i tryed to use a fork , but it just got wedged in there.


Luke

[303 Mopar]

Torsion bars are one of the biggest bangs for your buck (along with sub-frame connectors).  I would go 1.10 or more, as I just did, they make the front much more solid.  I would also highly recommend going with a bigger front sway than your original, like 1 7/8".  Many places have them but some of the cheapest are PST, and they have a coupon in the catalog or online if you can find it.  The torsion bars usually come with a new dust boot and clips in case yours are missing or need replaced.

For shocks, you can't beat Bilsteins as far as price to performance.  PST also sells these.  FirmFeel has all these parts too but are more expensive.  I would also check Summit as they offer free shipping.

[lukedukem]

Torsion bars are one of the biggest bangs for your buck (along with sub-frame connectors).  I would go 1.10 or more, as I just did, they make the front much more solid.  I would also highly recommend going with a bigger front sway than your original, like 1 7/8".  Many places have them but some of the cheapest are PST, and they have a coupon in the catalog or online if you can find it.  The torsion bars usually come with a new dust boot and clips in case yours are missing or need replaced.

For shocks, you can't beat Bilsteins as far as price to performance.  PST also sells these.  FirmFeel has all these parts too but are more expensive.  I would also check Summit as they offer free shipping.

1.10 sounds a bit much, you think I needs that big. As for the sway bar, I have a hotchkis on the way already. And I'm looking at bilsteins as well. Not sure about subframe connectors yet, I'm trying to stay with in budget

Luke

[303 Mopar]

1.10 sounds a bit much, you think I needs that big. As for the sway bar, I have a hotchkis on the way already. And I'm looking at bilsteins as well. Not sure about subframe connectors yet, I'm trying to stay with in budget

Luke

These cars were way under-sprung so 1.10 is the minimum I would recommend.  It is not too stiff at all and really holds it tight to the road, especially with your big block.

You will like the hotchkis sway!  The Bilsteins are a bit pricey but well worth it.  For the subframes, if you can weld at all, you can just buy some steel tubing and put them in.  I am welding challenged, so a local shop did them for me for $200 including material.  Again, great upgrade as the car feels so much more solid.

[lukedukem]

Wait, weld what now. The bilsteins?

[Brass]

For what it's worth, I have the 1.0" bars from Just Suspension and they were fairly affordable.  I like them a lot and they were a BIG improvement over the 318 bars.  Still, I don't think going even bigger would be a problem whatsoever.

[303 Mopar]

Wait, weld what now. The bilsteins?

talking Bilstein shocks, then addressed your point on subframe connectors.  I fixed the post.