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Author Topic: My 1970 Charger 500 is almost done  (Read 9036 times)
darbgnik
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« Reply #100 on: March 19, 2019, 09:33:08 PM »

Well, now that the weather is getting nicer up north here finally, I've turned my attention back to the charger. Not too much to report, but I was digging around the garage and noticed a set of dual electric fans I had new in the box laying on the shelf. Couldn't remember for the life of me why I had them, but I pulled them out of the box to inspect. Surprisingly, the tape measure said they fit the 26" rad in the Charger perfectly! And since I went EFI last year, the Sniper has a high and low fan output already, which basically sealed the deal.

From the decision to switch to electric fans, things spiraled out of control a little.... When I measured the rad, I noticed it was wet in a few places, so... new aluminum "stock looking" radiator got ordered. Since the fans only get triggered by the EFI, and I still needed to mount relay, it gave me the idea to put the headlights on relays straight off of the battery at the same time, as well as finally install a relay so the switched power to the EFI actually gets clean power, instead of powering directly off each side of the ballast resistor.. So that's a total of 5 relays, two negative triggered off of switched power, two positive triggered off of constant power, and one triggered off both sides of the ballast resistor. Some amazon digging produced a 6 position relay/fuse box, that looked the right size, that came complete with all the terminals. Perfect. But now I need to order relays and a Molex crimper.....

It's still a work in progress, but here's how it sits so far. Relay box pinned and wired, ready to be tied into the car. I honestly think it looks at home there. I have no intention of hiding it away, and it's a perfectly serviceable location.


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Brad

1970 Charger 500. Born a 318, AC, console auto, now 440/727
Build thread:  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127291.0.html
Dino
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« Reply #101 on: March 20, 2019, 03:58:42 AM »

Very nice!
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garner7555
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« Reply #102 on: March 20, 2019, 06:30:06 AM »

You will be very happy with all of those upgrades.   Dependability is my #1 goal, because that makes me that much more likely to jump in it and drive it!   Looking good  2thumbs
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69 Charger 440 resto-mod
darbgnik
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« Reply #103 on: March 25, 2019, 11:01:45 PM »

Well, as with everything I do with this car, I take one step forward, one step back. Better than two steps back I suppose.....

I fabbed up some brackets out of aluminum stock to attach to the aluminum radiator, I sanded and painted them then attached the fans with them. I was sure proud of them too..... till they didn't fit.  brickwall Turns out, those funny shapes in the fan shroud attachment plates were there for a reason. In the second pic you can see the shape of the factory tabs above my brackets, I had to cut and shape my brackets on the driver's side to clear the battery brace. On the passenger side, I had to cut the bracket short, and fab a rabbit ear out of 1.5" wide 1/8" steel stock. Then welded a top lock nut onto the metal piece, to use as a clamp, basically sandwiching the remaining flange of the lower radiator between the rabbit ear, and the bottom fans mount, which I had to turn downwards till the rad was in place, then clocked it into position, and clamped it with the ear. (No pics of this, as I got excited when my second attempt worked!)

In the second last pic, you can see a brand new shiny 5/16 compression fitting on the tranny cooler line, damn thing was frozen on, and was twisting the line out of shape. A few spins of a tubing cutter and that problem was over, with a straight enough tube, to join onto..... Good enough for now, as I think a Silver sport A41 is in this cars future.

Last pic is the relay box, all wired into the car. Two relays for the fans, high and low, kicked by the EFI. Tested and worked flawless. The two relays for the high and low beams are out, as now I need to change the headlight motor relay, as the relays interfere with it's operation. The last relay, and most surprising benefit, was the switched power for the EFI itself, triggered off both sides of the ballast resistor with a diode. The Sniper controller was always a little glitchy, but now with a clean power source, it has been flawless in it's operation, that was a win!

I also feel pretty good about the fan feeds, as they're only 3 feet from the battery. I also have the power feed to the battery upgraded, as well as inside the car, so electrically, the battery is similar to the alternator. No ammeter function anymore.


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Brad

1970 Charger 500. Born a 318, AC, console auto, now 440/727
Build thread:  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127291.0.html
TexasStroker
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« Reply #104 on: March 26, 2019, 04:06:00 PM »

Nice work!
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« Reply #105 on: March 26, 2019, 05:17:39 PM »

 coolgleamA 2thumbs popcrn
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darbgnik
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« Reply #106 on: March 26, 2019, 06:19:57 PM »

Thanks guys! Like everything else I put my hands on, I'll be chasing little leaks for the next few drives. Haha. But it works great. Still haven used the high fan yet, but should be good.
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Brad

1970 Charger 500. Born a 318, AC, console auto, now 440/727
Build thread:  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127291.0.html
Kern Dog
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« Reply #107 on: March 26, 2019, 09:59:18 PM »

How do you like that alternator? Is that  Denso high output?
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darbgnik
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« Reply #108 on: March 27, 2019, 10:29:47 AM »

How do you like that alternator? Is that  Denso high output?

IIRC its a 90A Nippodenso from a 1990-ish 318 Ram? I liked it a lot, when I first installed it. Got 14 volts at idle.... That being said, yesterdays test drive of the new cooling upgrades revealed 12.5 volts at idle(without the fans on, no change when they were) and jumps of up to as high as 18 volts when I hit the accelerator, then a settle back of 14.4 after letting off. So I have a Mopar electronic regulator on it's way from Amazon. From the reading I've done, it's the one to buy. We shall see, and I'll report back. I'm guessing the new alternator and increased loads were too much for the original regulator that's been on the firewall since I purchased the car.

I did notice that the V grooves in the new alternator are not as deep as the grooves in all the other pulleys, but it does work.

Pretty sure this is the one I bought, looks just like it, at least:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3468045&cc=1084777
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Brad

1970 Charger 500. Born a 318, AC, console auto, now 440/727
Build thread:  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127291.0.html
Kern Dog
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« Reply #109 on: March 27, 2019, 04:40:37 PM »

Thank you. Mine works fine but I'm going to be adding an all electric aftermarket A/C kit and I was concerned about the charging rate of the classic style. I'll stick with the stock one unless it can't keep up. It should....They did in 1970, right? I don't have a ghetto blasting stereo or any other non stock electrical demands.
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darbgnik
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« Reply #110 on: March 27, 2019, 06:31:49 PM »

Thank you. Mine works fine but I'm going to be adding an all electric aftermarket A/C kit and I was concerned about the charging rate of the classic style. I'll stick with the stock one unless it can't keep up. It should....They did in 1970, right? I don't have a ghetto blasting stereo or any other non stock electrical demands.

All electric? As in non belt driven compressor??
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Brad

1970 Charger 500. Born a 318, AC, console auto, now 440/727
Build thread:  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127291.0.html
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« Reply #111 on: March 27, 2019, 07:45:28 PM »

Sorry, maybe a dumb question, but are fans blowing towards the radiator shruggy or block.  scratchchin
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darbgnik
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« Reply #112 on: March 27, 2019, 08:08:42 PM »

Sorry, maybe a dumb question, but are fans blowing towards the radiator shruggy or block.  scratchchin

No such thing as a dumb question. They are puller fans. They are sealed to the rad and pull cool air through the rad towards the engine. Pullers are supposed to work much better than a pusher mounted on the front of the rad.
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Brad

1970 Charger 500. Born a 318, AC, console auto, now 440/727
Build thread:  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127291.0.html
WHITE AND RED 69
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« Reply #113 on: March 27, 2019, 08:23:56 PM »

Looks great! Nice and clean   2thumbs
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1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster
darbgnik
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« Reply #114 on: March 29, 2019, 01:28:11 PM »

Thank you. Mine works fine but I'm going to be adding an all electric aftermarket A/C kit and I was concerned about the charging rate of the classic style. I'll stick with the stock one unless it can't keep up. It should....They did in 1970, right? I don't have a ghetto blasting stereo or any other non stock electrical demands.

So I just installed the new Mopar P4529794 vintage looking electronic voltage regulator, and that cured up my voltage issue. A steady 14.4-14.6 at 950 RPM idle and at higher RPM. It is worth noting however that with the idle turned down to 800 RPM, the idle voltage is right at 13. A trade I'm willing to make for that nice low lumpy idle.  coolgleamA

Upon inspection, the existing regulator that came with the car, was one of those chrome jobbies, they just it painted black. Link to the one I bought below:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00EE59HZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Brad

1970 Charger 500. Born a 318, AC, console auto, now 440/727
Build thread:  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127291.0.html
darbgnik
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« Reply #115 on: March 31, 2019, 09:45:25 PM »

I just completed the headlight relay upgrade. I previously had the high and low beams on relays, in the new relay box I built and installed. But, with the relays in the circuit instead of the lights themselves, the low beams would come on and the door motor would snap open, as soon as the key was turned on, without the lights being switched on.

Turns out, that the factory headlight motor relay, doesn't have it's own ground, and grounded through the headlights, according to a member on here. So tonight I installed a modern relay(with a ground wire) in place of the existing relay, and it now all works. Doors open and close, high and low beams work, through the relays, just using the factory wiring as a switching circuit. Bright lights at night for the win!  coolgleamA
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Brad

1970 Charger 500. Born a 318, AC, console auto, now 440/727
Build thread:  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127291.0.html
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