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Who makes a relatively inexpensive valve spring removal tool?

Started by Harper, December 31, 2017, 12:58:42 PM

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Harper

OK so i am thinking if i remove my stock RV cam(i figure its probably done around 5000 to 5200 rpm) and put a little bumpstick in it to increase my RPM band some, is that something that will require new valve springs, retainers??
next question if so, then is that something i can do myself to save a couple bucks, not looking to spend much as i plan on going with a good set of edelbrock aluminums down the road... is there anyone who sells a decent tool to do this without spending a fortune.
1968 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (GL Clone)
1951 F1 Ford 302 EFI, Automatic
1965 F100 Ford Straight 6, 3 speed on column (all original)


Dino

That's a free loaner tool at any of the big auto parts stores.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Harper

QuoteThat's a free loaner tool at any of the big auto parts stores.
ah i did not think of that! may be worth asking next time i am in one of em. We have a current small parts store in our small town, i am pretty sure he doesnt have one of those not for loan anyway.
1968 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (GL Clone)
1951 F1 Ford 302 EFI, Automatic
1965 F100 Ford Straight 6, 3 speed on column (all original)

Challenger340

Quote from: Harper on December 31, 2017, 12:58:42 PM
OK so i am thinking if i remove my stock RV cam(i figure its probably done around 5000 to 5200 rpm) and put a little bumpstick in it to increase my RPM band some, is that something that will require new valve springs, retainers??
next question if so, then is that something i can do myself to save a couple bucks, not looking to spend much as i plan on going with a good set of edelbrock aluminums down the road... is there anyone who sells a decent tool to do this without spending a fortune.

I highly suspect your current "RV" Cam is on the downside of peak power by 4,400 rpm if the truth be known ?

A new bumpstick change might still be done by 5,000 to 5,200 rpm... NOT joking here !

You can NOT look at a Camshafts advertised rpm range for a determination of "what" rpm you should rev to ?
It does NOT work that way !
The published rpm ranges for Camshafts is strictly an estimate of Lobe/Valvetrain stability capability using correct components, V/Springs, etc., etc.
For example:
3,500 to 6,500 rpm advertised on a Camshaft means using correct components it should STABLE to 6,500 rpm, but no saying "where" peak power could occur depending upon many other factors. "Peak" power could occur anywhere between 5,200-5,500 rpm, meaning you are just rev'ing higher to go slower !

Even PORTED Edelbrock rpm's @ 300 cfm with Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cams in the 240'ish @ .050 duration range, are usually ALL DONE by 5,400 rpm and headed back down in power.... and that's with an honest 10:1 static C.R.

Again,
go look at some of the actual PROVEN and Posted Dyno Sheets over in the proven Combo's section see WHERE Peak Power is occuring with various Camshafts, not lying to you here.....
but you may be wasting your time thinking a 6,000 rpm Cam will make power to anywhere near 6K ?

Even a few examples here:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,130035.0.html
Only wimps wear Bowties !

Harper

Challenger340,
Always a good read, thanks for the reply.

I will do quite a bit of reading before making a choice. I may also ask some of you your opinion on what i plan to do ahead of time.
thanks
1968 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (GL Clone)
1951 F1 Ford 302 EFI, Automatic
1965 F100 Ford Straight 6, 3 speed on column (all original)

c00nhunterjoe

Measure how far in the hole those rv pistons are before you buy a cam as well.