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Exhaust studs vs bolts

Started by Hard Charger, February 25, 2019, 04:16:20 PM

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Hard Charger

I have a 71 B body, 383, PS and 516 heads.

Putting car back together and the heads came with studs to mount the exhaust manifolds. I will be installing headers and wonder if it is a better idea to remove the studs for a easier install

XH29N0G

I think the original heads had some studs that went into (and sealed) the water jacket.  The issue will be water leaking out when the bolts are out.  I do not know if there are any other issues. 
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

Dano 1

I recently dropped a 440 into my '69 with headers and studs. In hindsight I wish I had swapped the studs for bolts but hesitated because I was afraid of breaking the studs off and having to drill them out. If the heads are in good shape that may not be a concern, mine were fairly old and rusty but still serviceable so I decided to leave them alone. I ended up needing to pull both headers at different times after they were in the car and it was a bear with studs, I even had to cut one shorter so I could get the header flange to clear.
I know on the 440's the studs/bolts actually cross into water jackets so you need to put some sealer on the threads when you assemble, not sure if that's true on 383's or not, maybe someone more experienced can chime in there.
1969 Charger 383 2bbl, R4 red, White hat special project

Check out my website for 3D printed restoration parts and accessories.
www.nextgendesignsnc.com

will

383 and 440 both have 'wet' threads for the exhaust.

RallyeMike

As Dano said, it's tough to get headers off and on studs. You are better off using bolts. Make sure they are long enough and use a good sealer on them.
1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

Drive as fast as you want to on a public road! Click here for info: http://www.sscc.us/

6.7Cummins

Used all the stock studs on my 68 R/T. Had to trim a couple down. Used TTI 1 7/8 headers, 440. No issues with anything. Becareful removing studs if you do, they may break off.
1968 Charger R/T 440/727

metallicareload99

 :iagree:

I've always used studs with my headers and never really had a problem.  The shorter the better to a point, especially the back ones for cylinder one and two
1968, When Dinosaurs Ruled The Earth

Kern Dog

Installing headers with the studs in place can be difficult, especially with a 440 since the overall width of the engine is greater. I have always used bolts but in theory, the studs would probably help with positioning the gasket and the header while threading the nuts in place.

c00nhunterjoe

I have 2 1/8 primaries with studs and have no issues.

chargerbr549

I have run them both ways and I prefer studs but it is a little more work to install headers that way.

One of the challenges with removing the studs especially is if its in the car (Murphys Law pops up) and you will end up either breaking off at least one stud if not more and sometimes in the process you will mess the threads up while trying to remove studs thats been in there for 50 years, then the fun really begins.

Challenger340

Quote from: chargerbr549 on February 27, 2019, 10:01:23 PM
I have run them both ways and I prefer studs but it is a little more work to install headers that way.

One of the challenges with removing the studs especially is if its in the car (Murphys Law pops up) and you will end up either breaking off at least one stud if not more and sometimes in the process you will mess the threads up while trying to remove studs thats been in there for 50 years, then the fun really begins.

Cast Iron Heads the studs can be a real bitch to remove !   
And "when" the fun begins as it usually does.... broken/stripped studs/threads etc., we wouldn't even piss around trying to fix/repair in the engine bay, OFF with the Head !
and onto the Mill as the quickest/easiest/best way to line up, and then then using an End Mill CUT OUT the broken/stripped stud accurately to Heli-Coil as req'd.
Only wimps wear Bowties !

Hard Charger

thank you for all the replies.

I do realize sealer will be needed with bolts and studs, (hope engine builder did this).

Heads are pretty clean but the studs are a little beat up. Engine was built about 10 years, never started. Engine was kicking around from garage to garage for some time with the previous owners. I opened up the engine and replaced most gaskets and did inspections. No problems other than moisture damage in the heads and intake from partially opened valves. Needed to clean some scale but is was a learning experience and a great way to spend a cold winter in NE.
Studs cleaned up very well. I will chase the threads on the studs and keep my fingers crossed that they are sealed and the 383 has the room to install the header ok.