The verdict on EFI...I DO NOT recommend..

[AKcharger]

I gave it a chance and its just not worth the headache. Issue now is sometimes car starts, sometimes it doesn't. At BEST I'll have to invest HOURS on the phone with Holley or scrubbing support forums to figure this out. big mistake, should have left the carb on.

Disclaimer- I had a shop install it and they butchered the wiring. I thought I had it fixed now this. its POSSIBLE with proper installation these are fine, but my experience has been VERY disappointing.

[b5blue]

Sorry to hear this. I can't afford to play in this field so I just had to work out the kinks in my 750 Proform. 

[AKcharger]

Probably the smartest thing. seems like I flushed $2500 down the toilet...along with a bunch of time

[Kern Dog]

Sorry to hear this. I can't afford to play in this field so I just had to work out the kinks in my 750 Proform. 

I have plenty of money but I see no advantage to EFI where I live. Maybe for those in snowy climates or people that drive from high elevations to low elevations, the EFI really shines.
Carburetors have been working for over 120 years.
Sorry that this didn't work out for you, AK. It does suck to spend the money and see no gains from it.
The mantra that I've heard is that the wiring has to be right. There are too many issues with bad grounds and improper signals that the EFI computer relies upon. Carburetors are mechanical, vacuum and hydraulic. All of that stuff you can see and adjust. The Electronics of EFI are invisible and hard to diagnose and fix.
Some guys swear by the new EFI systems. Surely they are smarter than we are and can get out in front of problems before they ever happen.

[b5blue]

I assumed that system had it's own "OBD"?  (That it could give you why it's not starting.)

[John_Kunkel]

My experience has been the exact opposite, I'm happy with my FI TECH installation. Biggest advantage for me is the car sits for extended periods and starts right up without touching the throttle.

[Kern Dog]

I've heard of more problems with the FITech systems than any other.
Control module problems where the ECU just craps out without warning and you're stuck.
My Demon 850 can sit for well over a month and still start up within 15-20 seconds.
Not as good as a well tuned EFI system but not like some guys say.....the guys that crank and crank for 2 minutes or more!

[b5blue]

Switching to non ethanol eliminated starting issues.   

[Kern Dog]

I've ran mine between 110 in the Summer and 35 in the Winter. CA gas is "Up to 10% ethanol". The car runs fine.

[John_Kunkel]

I've heard of more problems with the FITech systems than any other.

The nearest competitor to FI Tech is the Holley Sniper. Peruse the various forums and you'll find nearly equal problems with both. The problem is no manufacturer can duplicate all of the parameters that their systems will be installed in and when there's a malfunction the EFI gets the blame. We all know car enthusiasts with minimal knowledge/skill who blame their tools for every screwup.

Instant startup isn't the only advantage of EFI, the user programs the target idle speed and it remains constant through all modes, no fast idle at cold startup, no rpm drop when placing an automatic into gear, no RPM fluctuation when the A/C compressor clutch cycles, etc. No vapor lock or carb boiling during a hot soak, the list goes on.

Some systems have the capability of sensing the fuel (flex fuel) and adjusting themselves accordingly. And last, list the new cars that currently use carburetors...there's a message there.

[Kern Dog]

I do agree.
A well sorted EFI system will have improvements worth the cost and effort.
I also agree that there are many enthusiasts that do not have the skills and patience to complete an EFI installation properly. I'd bet that a majority of issues arise from poor grounds and improper installation. Simply put, a carburetor will still allow the engine to run even if the jetting is a mile off. EFI can leave you stranded with one small mistake that isn't immediately obvious on how to fix it.
Carburetors are not foolproof but they can still get you home even when they are not tuned right.
I do respect those that have a well sorted EFI system. I do think though that one huge disadvantage the aftermarket EFI systems have is that they didn't benefit from the millions of dollars of development that was spent on an OEM system. Most are throttle body systems that don't quite match a modern port injected system with a dry intake. The throttle body systems are a half measure compared to what the new cars have.
Of the two friends that have had a FITech system, one kept it, the other went back to a carburetor. The guy that kept his is an actual mechanic with a lot more automotive skills than the other guy. To me, that suggests that the success of the system is related more to installer skill rather than product quality.

[Mike DC]

Sorry it didn't work out AKcharger.  It sucks to dump in the money & effort and feel like you're back where you started.  But thanks for posting up about it for the greater good. 


What Kern Dog said about the aftermarket EFI systems not having OEM-grade development & debugging . . . very true.  And there is the inherent problem with aftermarket anything - the electronics are a crap shoot.  It seems like buying "the good brand" just means only 10% of them will be dead right out of the box instead of 30%. 

From what I've seen & heard, the results of EFI conversions are all over the map.  Some guys love them, others cuss about them, and everything in between. 


The last generation of carbs that the OEMs used (1970s-80s) had evolved another whole notch from the 1960s-based carbs that most of us play with.  They were doing spread-bore 4bbls, pressure/altitude compensators, and electrically closing fuel bowl vents.

Today I think half the demand for $2000 EFI conversions could be met by a brand new fully-optioned 1985 Thermoquad.  I wish the latter was available & supported (new jet tuning kits, etc).   

Another alternative is that Holley & Edelbrock could start incorporating some of those driveability features (at least as add-on options) to their muscle-era aftermarket carbs that everybody is familiar with.  I mean, it wouldn't be that hard to add some hardware for closing off the float bowl vents.  That way the car could sit for a few days and then start up on the first crank. 

[Kern Dog]

I do appreciate how my 2007 Ram 1500 starts and runs the same no matter the weather.
My '70 Charger does the same thing though. I'm not bullshitting....it has a Demon 850 that I've tuned to run in the high 13s AFR at cruise, mid 11s at WOT and while that may seem rich, this is with 10% ethanol.
If my old cars didn't run as good as they do, I'd consider EFI.
My "Jigsaw" Charger:



Has a 383 with a Holley 750, a 280-474 MP cam, 1 7/8" headers and runs pretty good in the weather conditions I've driven it in as well BUT I'm considering a 3G Hemi swap for it eventually.

I want to build a long stroke 5.7 to reach close to 394 cubes. I'll run the factory intake and EFI and a A500 or a 518 4 speed automatic to generate 24 or more MPG and a 12 second 1/4 mile ET.
The 6.4 Challengers are almost 600 lbs heavier so I think the goals I have are attainable.
It will test my skill level, that is for sure.
The car is right at 3600 lbs as is with an incomplete interior but with a 3G Hemi and the rest of the interior in place, I think I might be back to the 3600 lb number.
This will have the advantage of OEM durability and reliability as well as a parts supply as close as any Dodge dealer.

[AKcharger]

I think what I'm running into now is a Voltage problem, alt is only putting out 12-12.4 volts. I but battery on charge all night and it started up fine 5 times so going alt rebuild direction.

Now I'm pretty sure I'll get it ironed out, but for the effort/$$ vs. how much I drive it...not worth it at all.

[b5blue]

https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/pages/ChryslerMegaAmp.php 

[John_Kunkel]

so going alt rebuild direction.

Since you stated that a shop "butchered the wiring" I would do some troubleshooting before shotgun replacing the alternator.

[Kern Dog]

Here is one for you, AK:




 

[cdr]

I think what I'm running into now is a Voltage problem, alt is only putting out 12-12.4 volts. I but battery on charge all night and it started up fine 5 times so going alt rebuild direction.

Now I'm pretty sure I'll get it ironed out, but for the effort/$$ vs. how much I drive it...not worth it at all.

Needs a relay off the ign switch to the ECU

[cdr]

Here is one for you, AK:




 

I can do EFI and carbs, my efi works awesome, high 10's 1/4, pretty good mpg. drive it anywhere.

[AKcharger]

Alt WAS bad and it's wired in perfect agreement with instructions including ignition to ECU...which shop had wired to pos side of coil 

[Kern Dog]

I've seen dipshits use the coil POS terminal to power accessories...

[AKcharger]

OK, ALT WAS bad but that wasn't the issue of Sometimes it starts sometimes it doesn't" Well, after talking to Holley, snipers are VERY finicky about power, seems my Radiator fans, which are wired to the ignition, are too much of a power draw. Pull fuse on fans & car starts every time. The Sniper is wired to control electric fans...But now I have to buy the $55 additional wire harness to use that ONE wire. 😠 Anyway, while researching all the headaches people have with this set up I saw several mention interference from the coil so I made up a hi-tech guard lol

[b5blue]

Good luck! The factory ALT. is kinda weak even in top shape. 

[Kern Dog]

No, the factory alternator is fine and totally adequate when the car is fairly stock.
I have the high output 63 amp unit and it keeps up just fine even with a few extra accessories.

[b5blue]

Yea kinda weak.

[Kern Dog]

Yea kinda weak.

You're a little slow to understand so I will spell it out better for you.
If you're not running electric fans, fuel pumps, big stereos or much beyond the factory equipment, there is no need for the higher amperage alternators. The stock 40 amp alternators were common in non A/C A bodies. Those cars never had power door locks, windows and rarely had power convertible top motors. You had a heater/defroster and the lights and dash board accessories.
The factory stuff works within the limits of the stock arrangement. I have a 63A in my car and even at idle it charges at 13.7 with the headlights on. Yeah, if I have the A/C fan going and am at a stop light with the brake lights on, the alternator struggles but picks right up with some rpm.

[b5blue]

 

[John_Kunkel]

seems my Radiator fans, which are wired to the ignition, are too much of a power draw. Pull fuse on fans & car starts every time.

Another error by those who did the electrical. Cooling fans need to be powered by the battery through an ISO relay...the relay handles the fan load and the ignition switch only powers the relay.

[John_Kunkel]

You're a little slow to understand so I will spell it out better for you.

Uncalled for.

If you're not running electric fans,

He already clearly stated he is.

[AKcharger]

Fans are currently are powered by Batt through relay but at moment "triggered" through ignition, otherwise they run as soon as you turn key. Change I have to Make is have fans triggered by the EFI with is based on temperature. the EFI trigger is supposed to keep system de-energized better? 

Shop had fans wire to "BATT" outlet on fuse box so even in accessory the fans ran...they used to do good work don't know what happened

[AKcharger]

Got the $50 adapter, now EFI controls fans...turns them on when it gets hot. Problem now is when it's hot fans turn on  with key and doesn't start.

BUT!! I think I found the solution  to ALL these problems!!!

[b5blue]

Consider "Idle output".

[John_Kunkel]

Got the $50 adapter, now EFI controls fans...turns them on when it gets hot. Problem now is when it's hot fans turn on  with key and doesn't start.

Run the fans power source through an ISO relay triggered by the Start circuit...that will shut the fans off when the starter is engaged.

BUT!! I think I found the solution  to ALL these problems!!!

Go back to carb? A step backward.

[Kern Dog]

A carburetor will keep you running long after an EFI module or sensor craps out on a road trip 200 miles between auto parts stores that might or might not have repair components.

[John_Kunkel]

A horse will keep going long after your new-fangled ottomobile craps out.

[Kern Dog]

Okay, I'll admit...you got me there.
Still....
I'm not against a well sorted EFI system but it seems that these aftermarket setups are a compromise when compared to an OEM 5.7 Hemi or similar system. The automakers have a lot more money invested and have to warranty their products or face huge fines.
If I ever do a 3G Hemi swap, I will consider using some form of OEM style EFI for reliability, service and parts availability. You could probably find injectors or coil packs for a 5.7 as easy as a gasket set for a Holley 750, maybe even easier.
I have a buddy that had shit luck with a FITech system and another that had better luck but the second guy is a mechanic by trade so he probably carried spare parts to keep from getting stranded. The first guy got towed home 3 times and had enough, then put an Edelbrock 800 on the car and hasn't has a problem with it.

[John_Kunkel]

I have a buddy that had shit luck with a FITech system and another that had better luck but the second guy is a mechanic by trade so he probably carried spare parts to keep from getting stranded.

Or, the second guy, being a mechanic by trade, installed the unit correctly which included making sure the electrical system was up to snuff. My FITech was installed in July of 2015 and hasn't left me stranded one time.

[Kern Dog]

Maybe so. I think he had a shop install it at first with that underhood "fuel command center" that was a workaround for those that didn't want to use an electric fuel pump. Of all the aftermarket EFI systems, FITech seems to have had the most complaints. Of course, it was also the cheapest.
You can make Harbor Freight stuff work but it sure takes a higher skill level to do so. The advertising for these systems often try to depict their systems as being "plug and play" and "self tuning" but those that have direct experience know that just isn't true.
If one can make them work, they do get the benefits of a throttle body system....a design the OEMs abandoned once Multi-port systems were adopted. Many of the problems with carbureted systems will still exist with a throttle body system since you still have the same intake manifold design and the same distance from throttle blades to intake valves. You cannot time a throttle body injector to spray milliseconds before an intake valve opens.
You probably gain cold start improvements, altitude change enrichment and lean-out but from what I have seen, heard and read, there is rarely a power increase over a well tuned carburetor.
If you like it, that is great. Just like our tastes in women, we don't have to agree for both of us to be right.

[John_Kunkel]

You probably gain cold start improvements, altitude change enrichment and lean-out

One thing you failed to mention is the advantage to cars that aren't driven regularly. When fuel evaporates from the carb bowl it's a routine of pump the pedal, crank, pump the pedal again, repeat as necessary until it starts.

AKCharger has outlined the trials and tribulations of his installation but I wonder...how does it perform after it does start? Are you happy with that?

[Kern Dog]

Good point. Sometimes the extended cranking is really annoying. I resort to squirting fuel from a bottle down the vent tubes and a little in the throttle bores to expedite a cold start. The convenience of just turning the key is a great point.

[Back N Black]

I was think about going to fuel injection but my carb works great. Its a Proform 850 double pumper, great throttle response and it can set for a month, pump it 3 times and she fires right up. I know fuel injection will start faster cold, but that's not enough for me to switch.

[AKcharger]

AKCharger has outlined the trials and tribulations of his installation but I wonder...how does it perform after it does start? Are you happy with that?

On occasion it does start it runs great! throttle response good, starts are easy and seems to run well. Unfortunately I never had the opportunity to really romp on it, however I am convinced with a properly operating EFI system it would make the car SCREAM.  The EFI was going to realize cars full potential (stroked 400/470, Aluminum heads, decent cam) but as stated the install was butchered and I'm tired of having a non-running car. Carb re-install is in-progress.

[AKcharger]

and guys there's a LOT more to this, of course if it was as just the fans I'd run a toggle switch, but even with the fans off and fuse pulled starts are sporadic to the point I'm surprised when it does start! 

The decision to remove comes after serious consideration. the ONLY course of action to REALLY fix this is basically buy another complete kit and redo EVERYTHING and Its not that important to me,  consider:
-  With the mis-wiring there's no end to possible electrical damage and all the brains are in the throttle body
 - Replumb fuel system...The shop put the electric fuel pump right up on the front rail near pax floor, the install
   manual gives a CAUTION & notes 2 more times pump has to be as close to the gas tank as possible. it's also LOUD!
- Install complete new wire harness and relays.
- Basically, everything short of installing a return fuel line in the tank has to be re-done.

[Kern Dog]

I just noticed your location.
Florida.
The benefits of an EFI system over a properly tuned carburetor are worthless to Florida residents.
It doesn't get cold there. There isn't much change in elevation.
Unless the car sits for months at a time, there is no benefit in my opinion. Even then, a small inline pusher pump could fill the carburetor enough to get the car started after a hibernation.
I'm not against trying new things but there has to be very few minor drawbacks to make it feasible.

[AKcharger]

yeah the cars don't get driven much and when I do drive I don't beat them. If I really wanted to go fast I's just go buy a Tesla Plaid S and get a road worthy 9 sec 1/4 mile car I can drive to work...Chargers are just for show :-)

[Kern Dog]

Speed wasn't my point.
EFI has been proven to NOT make any more peak power than a well sorted carbureted engine.

[John_Kunkel]

Not everybody is fixated on speed, the key factor for me is driveability i.e. the degree of smoothness and steadiness of acceleration of an automotive vehicle. The definition of this will differ with the individual. If someone who says their carbed car "runs great" lets me drive their car I might disagree.

[69hemibeep]

I've been watching this thread for some time and I have a little input. One I have a 68 Valiant with a mild 440, 727 with 323 gears that I had 750 double pumper tuned the best I could, and I'm no novice. Ran smooth lots of power no stumble and then I bought a Holley sniper for my jeep which I decided to go another direction with so I end up with this sniper. I purchased an in tank pump pickup (not cheap) for the valiant for the sniper install. The in tank unit makes the return line issue go away and I must say the cold start, pick up in RPM when the A/C comes on fan control and power increase I can feel in the seat was well worth it. I since put one in my daughters 69 440 powered Charger and it works great!!! 

[Kern Dog]

There are advantages to both EFI and carburetors. I can appreciate the desire to have the smoother operation that a well designed EFI system delivers. I drive EFI vehicles as daily drivers and yes....they do drive better than my older carbureted vehicles in cold weather and altitude changes. Otherwise, the EFI mainly shines in fuel economy. It is apples and oranges though since the EFI vehicles have less cubic inches and more efficient combustion chambers and the advantages of the computer controlling and adjusting fuel and spark curves.
I have toyed with the thought of a port injected EFI system but my cheap side still wonders about the cost/benefit angle.

[69hemibeep]

It took allot for me to jump into EFI being I'm generally old school. I'm now doing a 68 AMX 390 4spd A/C car that will stay carbureted with points ignition. Between the AMX and Charger I stay busy, My daughter is coming in from LA and will want to work on her Charger and I know with the EFI it will start and drive out of the back storage area.

[AKcharger]

Last update...Issue resolved!
Carb back on and car running reliability again. Starts just as good as EFI and faster...no waiting on fuel pump. While I do maintain this was a mistake and unnecessary for ME, I will adjust my assessment of EFI in general and confident ALL my troubles were due to negligence of the shop and NOT of the Holley system. As I undid their "work" and matched it to instruction manual I'm actually surprised it ran. 1) loose pressure line on fuel tank causing fuel leak 2) fuel filters mis-installable with one before the pump and one...on the return line? 3) Fuel pump improperly located 4) The push rod for my fuel pump was still in there rattling around 5) power incorrectly wired to pos. side of coil 6) an additional relay that was wired to EFI...but did nothing and wasn't in instructions 7) looks like they cut my Temp sensor wire when they installed the kit one so have to run a new one from Bulkhead block.
They did good work in past and earned my trust...no idea why they just went off the deep end??   

[b5blue]

 

[Kern Dog]

Over at FBBO, there is a thread about a Tremec 5 speed swap in a 69 Coronet.
I mentioned how the swap took almost 2 months but that it could have been quicker if the workdays were closer together and longer each day. I put out the question: How long would a shop take to do it?
A member responded that he thought a shop would probably run right through it with no special care to the details just to finish and get it out of the shop so they can keep things moving.
I mention this because I wonder if the shop that did the EFI installation had that same mindset. Knock it out fast just to keep from having a car sitting and blocking room to get another car in to work on.
Some guys take their cars to shops because they like the car but don't have the skills, tools or the space to do it themselves. I suspect that these shops figure that their customers may never know what level of butchery was used to do the job on their car OR they just don't care.

[AKcharger]

100% Agree! in the PAST they weren't like that, but looks like they changed. I could have done it myself but didn't want to hence why it went to them. will NEVER happen again.
No one cares about our cars like we do!

[Kern Dog]

I couldn't justify the cost to have a shop swap my 727 for the Tremec but even if I could afford it, why ??
I'm still able to do everything myself as long as I have these forums. I sometimes get stuck and helpful members come up with creative solutions.

[b5blue]

Seems the more I pay someone the less I get! My engine shop is gold and the guy I got the car from owns a transmission shop, they raced with each other for years. 

[John_Kunkel]

Last update...Issue resolved!
Carb back on and car running reliability again.

Looks like somebody might be getting a good deal on a slightly used EFI kit.

[AKcharger]

Looks like somebody might be getting a good deal on a slightly used EFI kit.

Maybe, right now it's helping prop my fence open

[John_Kunkel]

Looks like somebody might be getting a good deal on a slightly used EFI kit.

Maybe, right now it's helping prop my fence open

I'll traded you a cinder block for it and even pay the shipping.

[AKcharger]

I'll traded you a cinder block for it and even pay the shipping.

Tempting!


on a serious note, took it out for a spin today, runs better than ever!

[Kern Dog]

Florida and most of California have weather that do allow year round driving of most cars.

[b5blue]

Glad your back in the saddle again. 

[AKcharger]

Glad your back in the saddle again. 

Thanks Blue! me too!

[Derwud]

Sorry you had so much trouble. I built my engine and car for EFI. I was going to go FI Tech until I saw Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4. What I learned in 3 installs.. GROUNDS and lots of them. Electrical interference is a thing (I had to move the Module on the Small Block as it would get electrical interference from the Dist. I moved it 4 inches or so and no more problem), In-tank pumps are the only way to go. EFI power and ground must be hooked directly to the Battery. Lastly NO Exhaust leaks..

[HeavyFuel]

My Demon 850 can sit for well over a month and still start up within 15-20 seconds.
Not as good as a well tuned EFI system but not like some guys say.....the guys that crank and crank for 2 minutes or more!

Wow.  People crank for that long?

If there is more than a few days between starts for my car, I splash a small bit of fuel down the gullet and manually double check the idle set for fast.  The engine fires on what feels like the first revolution, and the idle smooths out nicely after a few seconds.  I think the bowl check valve is not functioning and allowing the fuel to drain out, but that's just a theory.  If I don't follow those steps, I'll end up cranking for maybe a few seconds, stop, tap the gas a couple times, crank again for a few, repeat several times.  Maybe a total of ten seconds of cranking.

If cranking mine took over 30 seconds, I'd be losing my shit.

I'm running the factory Carter AVS that's been refreshed a couple times by me.

Guess I'll keep my carb, sounds like it's doing pretty good.  Sure, it's kind of small hassle to do all those steps, but I feel like the engine will be healthier in the long run for it.  Maybe someday a new check valve, see if that helps.

[69wannabe]

I tried a fi tech unit several years ago. It ran ok but it still didn't start like fuel injection is supposed to start. I tried to make it work but after a little less than a year I put my carburetor back on and haven't looked back. The carburetor is more consistent on my car than the fi tech was so I traded the fi tech crap off and that was the end of that.

[Kern Dog]

A buddy of mine also tried the FITech and he also was not pleased. After his 3rd breakdown, he was talking with a guy at a car show. The man was trying to help and to assess what Rich's goals were for the car....
So, what do you want from the car?
His response was classic!
What I want is to not to have to tow it back home all the time.
He had the system on a mild 440. He went to an Edelbrock 800 and has been quite happy since.

[HANDM]

Hmm, you guys are making me question my purchase of a new sniper kit, in tank fuel pump and two fuel filters. I've been considering this conversion for a few years now and when this deal came up (bought it from a member or e-bodies.org) I jumped on it.
 
I've been working on these cars for over thirty years so I'm confident I can get it up and running fairly quickly.
I'll keep the carb handy just in case though   

[Kern Dog]

From what I understand, the successful switch to EFI is absolutely dependent on proper installation and adequate grounding. The early FITech systems had systemic issues related entirely to faulty equipment. The other systems seemed much better but are much more sensitive to errors than a carbureted car. You can get close with a carburetor and the car will still run and drive. With the electrical demands of EFI, a few simple error leaves you stranded and at the mercy of a tow truck.

[HANDM]

From what I understand, the successful switch to EFI is absolutely dependent on proper installation and adequate grounding. The early FITech systems had systemic issues related entirely to faulty equipment. The other systems seemed much better but are much more sensitive to errors than a carbureted car. You can get close with a carburetor and the car will still run and drive. With the electrical demands of EFI, a few simple error leaves you stranded and at the mercy of a tow truck.

Well since I'll probably never drive the car the chances of getting stuck is zero!   

[John_Kunkel]

From what I understand, the successful switch to EFI is absolutely dependent on proper installation and adequate grounding.

BINGO !!

The early FITech systems had systemic issues related entirely to faulty equipment

Mine is about as early as they come, purchased July 2015. Like all other products, ya pays your dime and ya takes your chances.

[Kern Dog]

I heard of several FITech systems that had ECU failures as well as problems with the underhood "command center".

[will]

I heard of several FITech systems that had ECU failures as well as problems with the underhood "command center".

I had heard of many problems with the fuel command center, but I never had any problems. I recently upgraded to the in tank fuel pump system and ran the corvette fuel regulator. I have the 800 Meanstreet. Timing control is not used on the meanstreet. Supposedly these fitechs don't like mopar ignition systems, but there are workarounds. I do agree grounding is very important for these systems. The ears on the baseplates have been breaking off, I don't think people realize they have to be somewhat mechanically inclined to install these systems. As far as ECU failures i decided recently to send it back to upgrade the unit to the remote ECU just for peace of mind. My car has run flawlessly since I installed it.

[John_Kunkel]

I heard of several FITech systems that had ECU failures as well as problems with the underhood "command center".

Funny how the world works, any problems with a product immediately go viral but satisfied users are rarely moved to voice their satisfaction.

Lots of posts over the decades complaining about problems with carburetors.

[Kern Dog]

It must be human nature.
A satisfied customer tells 3 people while a DISsatisfied one tells 20.

[375instroke]

Here is one for you, AK:




 

At the track, endurance racing, this dude told us our car was slow because we were overjetted, and he called the jets we were using exactly, and what we should be running, along with our accelerator pump self oscillating at 4000RPM, causing our dead spot, just by hearing us go down the straightaway.

[375instroke]

You probably gain cold start improvements, altitude change enrichment and lean-out

One thing you failed to mention is the advantage to cars that aren't driven regularly. When fuel evaporates from the carb bowl it's a routine of pump the pedal, crank, pump the pedal again, repeat as necessary until it starts.

AKCharger has outlined the trials and tribulations of his installation but I wonder...how does it perform after it does start? Are you happy with that?

That's me if I don't drive it for a day.  How does just a little alcohol in the gas cause all the gas to evaporate in a day?

[John_Kunkel]

"Reid vapor pressure (RVP) is a common measure of the volatility of gasoline and other petroleum products. It is defined as the absolute vapor pressure exerted by the vapor of the liquid and any dissolved gases/moisture at 37.8 °C (100 °F) as determined by the test method ASTM-D-323.

The matter of vapor pressure is important relating to the function and operation of gasoline-powered, especially carbureted, vehicles and is also important for many other reasons. High levels of vaporization are desirable for winter starting and operation and lower levels are desirable in avoiding vapor lock during summer heat. Fuel cannot be pumped when there is vapor in the fuel line (summer) and winter starting will be more difficult when liquid gasoline in the combustion chambers has not vaporized. Thus, oil refineries manipulate the Reid vapor pressure seasonally specifically to maintain gasoline engine reliability."

Bottom line, since current gasoline is formulated for fuel-injected engines, carbs won't operate at optimum with it.

[Captain D]

One thing with the EFI is that you'll need to eliminate the ballast resistor + run the MSD box....