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Neutral Safety Switch:

Started by Captain D, April 06, 2024, 04:50:59 PM

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Captain D

Hello all,

Hope this is posted in the correct location, but any tutorials in replacing a neutral safety switch for someone never having done it before (69' Charger, 383, automatic)? After some searches, I've learned to try to lean the car to the right / or forward if possible to prevent less fluid drainage, a pan to catch the fluid + to know how much fluid to put back in when finished, go through the gears prior to the change, and put the car in park. Some threads said to warm the car up some to help draw the fluid up. Any other suggestions, by chance? I just hate swapping stuff out on the transmission. Just when I get the fluid right, now got to start the process all over again.

Thank you,

Nacho-RT74

I wouldn't overthink it. Raise the car lean to the right ( maybe even lean to right AND front ) as much you can (but safe) and proceed.

The bigger problem you can get is more or less fluid coming out, but having a pan underneath will save all or most of it to refill it.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Captain D

Thanks Nacho - meant to ask what size socket it'll take? Of course, I can always find out once I get the replacement in. But, was just curious in the meantime,  ;) .

Thanks again!

Nacho-RT74

Long time since I have made it. I made it with an adjustable wrench anyway I think. Most of the thread in and out can be made by hand, and just tight/untight at the end, so a couple of 1/4- 1/3 of turns uses to be enough to use any tool... AS FAR I RECALL.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

Searching on the web just read it seems to be 1" hex size, but hard to make it with a socket by the poor clearence around so should be an open wrench from the top.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

armor64

quickly running it through the gears sounds like a good idea too, having just rebuilt my trans, i filled it and ran it in N, thought it was "full" but as soon as i tried going through the gears slowly, the pan was empty, it took about 5L of fluid after the initial fill (was expected though, at least)

Captain D

.... just curious - we've been running the Peak ATF for the past few years since the rebuild. But to have an extra quart on-hand just in case, perhaps I can begin to use a better quality ATF. If it's safe to mix, what better ATF can I begin to use with the Peak brand ATF (if any)? For instance, Valvoline synthetic, etc.

Thank you for your info once more.


John_Kunkel


You can mix the various fluids with no ill effect.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Captain D

Going to swap the switch out in just a few days. In thinking about misc., when plugging the wiring connection back in to the new NSS, do any of the three prongs need to be seated in any particular order? If not correct, then I realize that it's just a matter of simply unplugging it and turning it around. But, just learning it....

Thanks again,

Nacho-RT74

It will work in any position.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Captain D

I've been meaning to follow-up. The new old stock NSS went in perfectly and the back up lights work great. Plus, no leaks (compared to the made in China repops)! I was able to save, and keep clean, the previously used fluid with needing to add only a little extra. The fluid level is right in the middle of the 'low' and 'full' indicators as I was informed that point may be best vs. right at the full mark.

Overall, it was cool to learn something new / do it myself. Many 'thank you's' to everyone who replied within this thread! :cheers:   

b5blue

I think you check the level hot and running.

Captain D

Yep, went for a good run & checked it while it was still hot, in neutral, & on level ground.  :2thumbs:

Thanks again to all!