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Manifold question

Started by Telvis, July 21, 2005, 01:22:05 PM

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Telvis

My motor has been finished for some time now. It looks like the paint guy is getting close to being done. I was looking at my HP manifolds and thinking about going ahead and installing them on the motor. I bought them off Ebay a while back. I haven't installed them because the one with the heat valve is missing the weighted mechanism. The valve is there and it moves freely. I'm not going to mess with trying to replace the rest of the mechanism. I want them to flow freely anyway. My question is what to do with the valve that's in it. Should I just open it and tack weld the shaft in place? Would it be fine to just leave it alone and let the flow of the exhaust keep it open? Should I remove it all together and weld in the holes in the side? ???

Ghoste

If you want correct appearance and function, leave it in.  If you want appearance and performance, tack it open.  If you just want performance, get it out of there.
I'd tack it open myself if I wanted the manifold look.  They are notorious for "freezing" in a closed or partly closed condition.

Headrope

I removed the heat riser from my stock, lo-performance manifolds. To fill the holes I tapped them, threaded them, spackled them with JB Weld and screwed in bolts before it dried.
Seems to be holdiing up well so far, but might not be somthing worth risking on pricey high performance logs.
Sixty-eights look great and the '69 is fine.
But before the General Lee there was me - Headrope.

Chryco Psycho

I ususally cut the plate off & leave the shaft to seal the holes

Just 6T9 CHGR

I cut mine out, sealed the holes and had them Jet-Hot coated.

The rebuild kit for the heat riser is availible though....
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


Telvis

I will probably just go ahead and remove the valve and weld in the holes.

69hemi

I replaced the one on my Hemi with the repop kit but substitued a rod for the butterfly that way it has all the stock look but does not run hot exhaust up the pipes to my manifold.
http://www.69hemi.com
1969 Hemi R/T Charger
1969 440 GTX
1965 Hemi A/FX Plymouth
1964 Hemi Superstock Dodge
02 Ram
95 Ram

firefighter3931

Quote from: Telvis on July 22, 2005, 06:30:50 AM
I will probably just go ahead and remove the valve and weld in the holes.

That's probably the best way to go. The Eastwood manifold paint is supposed to be excellent. I saw a set that were blasted and painted 3 yrs ago and they looked like they'd just been done. I was surprised how well the paint was holding up.

Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

8WHEELER

I had 2 sets of manifolds jet coated and put one set on my red car, 6mo later it started to rust, took them off took them back he said they should have never done this so he re-coated both sets. Well they did it again starting to rust and look terrible, he thought my engine might be running to hot and I assured him it was not.

Anyway we just used the Eastwood paint on my wife manifolds 3yrs later they look 10x better than mine, I am going to stick with the cheap Eastwood mode, the Jet Coat cost me $200.00 ea and does not last two of my friends had the same problem went bad within one year  :icon_smile_sad:

Dan
74 Dart Sport 360, just for added fun.

Ghoste

I thought that Jet Hot stuff was supposed to be nearly indestructable.

Telvis

I had bought a can of POR 15 high heat paint that I had planned on using on them. Now I can't find it. I have looked high and low. I was going to ask if anyone had ever used it but now it's a moot point.  :brickwall:

Chryco Psycho

por 15 manifold paint works great
No I didn`t use your can !! :icon_smile_approve:

Just 6T9 CHGR

My Jet-Hot lasted 3 + years.  they recoated them for free again.
My car sits in an unclimate controlled garage.  With the temp changes & dew, the cas is soaking/dripping wet at times.  Hard to keep anything from rusting in there
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


hemigeno

Quote from: 69hemi on July 22, 2005, 12:42:12 PM
I replaced the one on my Hemi with the repop kit but substitued a rod for the butterfly that way it has all the stock look but does not run hot exhaust up the pipes to my manifold.

I did the same thing, including sealing off the heat tube hole on the exhaust manifold - the heat tubes are there, just non-functional.   We tack-welded a stub onto the "H" pipe to catch the other heat tube's end - but there's no opening into the "H" pipe.

If you're going to eliminate the butterfly plate, you ought to consider blocking off the crossover on the intake manifold (if you haven't already).   That way, your intake's paint doesn't discolor from the exhaust heat.   Without the butterfly plate it might not force too much heat up there anyway, but I'd still block it off.   Some guys think a motor doesn't look right w/o that burned-paint look there, but not me.   It does disable the choke, but that's usually not a problem on a non-daily-driven car.