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removing lead from sail panel? Best practice for resto

Started by rob9593, May 30, 2007, 10:41:01 AM

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rob9593

What's the preferred method of restoring the sail panel area, specifically referring to how the quarter was 'leaded' to the roof

I've heard so many different opinions:
opinion 1: leave it alone completely if you can avoid...the lead they used back then was rreally good and should be just fine...eld in the quarter somewhere else..

opinion 2: takke it all out...that stuff is crap and will rust your car....take all the lead out, butt-weld the panel and then just use a very light skim coat of filler to smoothen it all out

opinion 3: Put the lead back in with the modern stuff

or other?? What do I do with this? I have to put in a whole new factory style quarter on my Charger, and the other side doesn't need a quarter replacement.....

Charger-Bodie

imo if you are gonna leave the vinyl top off lead the seams, if you are gonna go with a vinyl top duraglass , all metal ect. will be fine ........if there are no signs of rust AT ALL leave it on the other side but if any signs are there of rust get rid of it clean it up ie blasting and re lead or ect.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

rob9593

no vinyl....it's going to be a hardtop, but was a vinyl roof car....

so lead is better then?

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: rob9593 on May 30, 2007, 11:08:16 AM
no vinyl....it's going to be a hardtop, but was a vinyl roof car....

so lead is better then?

yes if properly done there is nothing better than lead!
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

daytonalo

I heat lead with torch , wire brush lead out , weld in 20 gauge plate ,some mud work,  and your done !!!!! Now go get a real delima ,like world peace !!!!!

Charger-Bodie

 :iagree: withith the exception that you make a moisture trap by doing that AND if you dont have access to someone who is good at the lead process !
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

daytonalo

The car is made up of overlapping metal , I also use weld thru primer , this way  the car wont rust out for at least 200 years ! By the way when were all gone , the cars we all love will be destroyed by who ever we will them or your wife sells them for Penny's on the dollar !!!!!!!!!!

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: daytonalo on June 04, 2007, 08:28:12 PM
The car is made up of overlapping metal , I also use weld thru primer , this way  the car wont rust out for at least 200 years ! By the way when were all gone , the cars we all love will be destroyed by who ever we will them or your wife sells them for Penny's on the dollar !!!!!!!!!!

overlapping metal is ALOT differant than a pocket !!!!
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

Silver R/T

http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

daytonalo

YOUR RIGHT , LEAVE THE LEAD IN PLACE AND SOON IT WILL BLISTER OUT FROM RUST JUST LIKE ALL b-BODY'S DO AT LOWER A-PILLAR POST , LOOK AT ONE , IF YOU DON'T REMOVE LEAD AND WELD SOLID IN THIS AREA , CRACKING WILL OCCUR . THAT IS WHAT I HAVE BEEN DOING FOR 25 YEARS !

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: daytonalo on June 04, 2007, 10:18:34 PM
YOUR RIGHT , LEAVE THE LEAD IN PLACE AND SOON IT WILL BLISTER OUT FROM RUST JUST LIKE ALL b-BODY'S DO AT LOWER A-PILLAR POST , LOOK AT ONE , IF YOU DON'T REMOVE LEAD AND WELD SOLID IN THIS AREA , CRACKING WILL OCCUR . THAT IS WHAT I HAVE BEEN DOING FOR 25 YEARS !

his question was about the sail panels!! go back and read it !! as for the other areas of lead such as the cowl to a piller seam and the 1/4 to rocker seam that  i would remove and fill with weld and metal to metal
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

65post

I always take the lead out and Sand blast the area real good then mig the seams.Epoxy then work up from there.These areas were never finished off good from the factory.( Mopar or GM ) They either put too much lead or not enough.If you choose to leave it alone just pass a block over the area and you will see whare you need to fill or cut down.Terry
Previously owned Daytona XX29L9B423239 - f8 - white int. - power windows.

69fourspd

This is just my opinion and I am sure many will disagree, but I do not believe lead is a good method of working the quarter seem.  This was used before compounds of today were introduced.  It is easy to see lead wave in the heat of summer rendering your new paint job to look flawed.  I would pull it all out and use an appropriate filler compound to smooth this area.  Preferably, use a mig to stitch the gap and then top/skim coat. 

pandamarie

The new fillers are so much better than lead, I restore Classics like 20-40s Packards and Lincolns and wont use lead unless asked to by the owner. it will crack and let loose and is a pain to repair. I have a 41 Packard that was leaded in 75 and its cracking all over. did a 39 Packard about the same time and it still looks like new. going to look at a 29 dual cowl phaeton today that someone wants restored. Even my mopars get mud and when done right will last forever. leave the lead to the old timers.

Charger-Bodie

lead for most areas is not the way to go but in a sail panel or something thick like that there is NOTHING that will hold out as well imo when applied correctly the newer fillers are better but in an area that thick lead is the way to go because it doesnt expand and contract like filler . i like daytonalos idea of laying a patch over the seam and then the filler is alot thinner but with that you have to worry about a moisture pocket unless you could make a access hole from behind to rustproof it? maybe :shruggy: ..............but as far a lead being no good thats not the case if the meal is tinned right and it is done correctly!
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............