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Rear defrost wiring question, not original to the car

Started by Spartan, November 10, 2005, 07:16:22 AM

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Spartan

I got my switch today for the rear defrost.  It looks like a 3 position switch and has a 3 prong male connector that tie in to the wiring harness.  I bought the wiring harness for the rear defrost,  it is also a male connector with only 2 prongs that goes to a single female prong to the motor.  I am assuming the 3 prong goes to the dash harness somewhere and the two prong on the defrost harness ties into a different part of the dash harness.

Does anyone know if the standard dash has connections for the defrost option on the harness.  And are my parts right for what I am doing?  I thought I got all the right stuff.  I was thinking the switch and defrost harness would fit together with a lead to the fuse box.  It was a little different then I expected.

Thanks for the help.
Over?! its not over until we say it is! Was it over when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor?!...Hell no! and its not over now!..(Germans? Pearl Harbor?...shut up, he's on a roll)

Ghoste

Weren't we talking about a mysterious three prong female connector on your car before?

Ghoste

There is a rear window defogger-all models wiring diagram on 8-96 of the fsm.  It shows a single light green coming off the accessory terminal on the fuse block into a three prong connector.  The other two terminals on the connector have black and white leads going back to a two prong which plugs into the motor.  The three must plug into the switch.
Does that help?

Just 6T9 CHGR

Chris' '69 Charger R/T


Ghoste

I'm thinking it's the three prong one we were wondering about before.

Spartan

that may be it.  It seemed kind of low on the harness for the plug but maybe it was just sagging.  I need to get a fsm....my chilton's is basic garbage for what I need for now.  I am blasting the housings and more importantly, getting all the rust off.  That damn set screw in the fan must be rusted shut....the allen head rounded,  looks like its time for an easy out.  the switch was hard moving, little wd 40 on the mech and it worked pretty good.  Motor worked w/  a 9v battery.  clean and check the wiring harness and I should be in business.  I just need the hole location for the switch in the dash. 

Is there a light to illuminate the switch?  Me and the damn lights lol.

Thanks guys.
Over?! its not over until we say it is! Was it over when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor?!...Hell no! and its not over now!..(Germans? Pearl Harbor?...shut up, he's on a roll)

Just 6T9 CHGR

Chris' '69 Charger R/T


Spartan

thanks again :)    I couldn't remember if my temp controls lit up its been so long.  Sucks not having the car here.
Over?! its not over until we say it is! Was it over when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor?!...Hell no! and its not over now!..(Germans? Pearl Harbor?...shut up, he's on a roll)

Just 6T9 CHGR

Spartan, the temp controls do have a light (2 small bulbs)

The def switch does not......
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


Spartan

ah.  maybe the bulbs there have been burned out since the day I bought it then, lol. Thanks
Over?! its not over until we say it is! Was it over when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor?!...Hell no! and its not over now!..(Germans? Pearl Harbor?...shut up, he's on a roll)

Spartan

Hey, any of you with the stock rear defrost, could you post a pick with the switch mounted under the dash from the bottom up?  My bracket is damaged and I want to tig weld and grind it smooth and blast it.  I just want to make sure I get the switch and bracket in the right orientation as it sits under the dash.  If I cannot fix it and stabalize the tab that supports the switch I may have to fab up my own.....

I have seen a few pics from the drivers view but that doesn't show the support bracket or the orientation

Thanks
Over?! its not over until we say it is! Was it over when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor?!...Hell no! and its not over now!..(Germans? Pearl Harbor?...shut up, he's on a roll)

Spartan

Ok,  I have been doing some surfing and comparing pics to what I received off e-bay. I think this will clear up allot if correct.  My plate has a 1/2" hole right next to the tab that holds the switch.  The pictures I have seen do not have this hole.  This hole is also where my crack is the plate next to the tab for the switch.  This hole is also about the same size as the lights for the ignition and the ash tray so my guess is someone tried a home made light for this (hence my question earlier about a light for for it, I figured the hole had to serve some purpose.  Judging by the burr in the hole, the guy was too close with a drill and cracked the part and did a half-arsed botch job welding it that did not hold.  Basically I answered most of my own questions.

I do have a sequencing question that will determine the orientation.  If what I see is correct, the switch is off when it is closest to the dash.  mid-position is the first notch toward the driver and high is the position closest to the driver, basically pulling it toward you.  I thought it was a push in toward the dash sequence but it looks to be just the opposite.  Let me know if thisis correct.  Also, anyone have dimensions to locate this thing under the dash? 

Thanks.
Over?! its not over until we say it is! Was it over when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor?!...Hell no! and its not over now!..(Germans? Pearl Harbor?...shut up, he's on a roll)