Found Out My Blocks Cracked? Screwed by Seller

[70charger_boy]

 

[bull]

Why would anyone patch a place they know is gonna leak soon? I know to get money but they know it's gonna be sooner than later when it takes a dump. I learned my lesson a long time ago - either hear it run or get one and completely rebuild it and have the machine shop do all the machine work and checking, then you know what you got. I don't even like remanufactured unless I heard rave reviews about them.

Even the "hear it run" theory is flawed. I bought an IH 345 for a Scout I once had that a guy had strapped to a pallet or something so I could hear it run. Sounded great. I loaded it up, drove the 40 miles back home and then my brother and I spend a good 12 hours installing it. I took off down the road for a little test drive and at about 45 mph the thing started knocking like a woodpecker -- let me tell you, I was one red-faced SOB after spending all that time and money on nothing. After that experience I really don't think it's worth it to bother with used engines. Too much of a gamble IMO.

But if a guy says an engine is rebuilt and yet tried to hide a crack in the block with bondo (of all things) I think he needs to have his a$$ put in the ringer. This is just me but I think have someone stitch the block as suggested or try to V out the crack and use some JB Weld on it -- just a temporary fix until this clown pays for what he did.

[Challenger340]

Sorry for your pain, that just plain sucks, the guy should be shot with a lump of his own Poo !

Just trivia for anybody interested.

Given that these stock blocks are getting so old now, and core history is unknown at best these days, heres what we do prior to accepting a "core" for machining, NOW !

We Mag first of course, all critical areas, however, we have been stung by writing "no evidence found", proceeding, and later found somebody goofed !
Expensive warranty !
We ain't perfect !

Anyways, last 10 years or so, we ALWAYS bolt on a couple of Torque-plates to the decks with head gaskets after rough Boring & Decking, and use a jig we built to bolt on in place of the water pump housing with a "tire valve".
We then pressure it up with the frost plugs in place to around 30 psi, watch the gauge, and spray soapy water anywhere suspicious.

**
Not that everybody has a coupla Torque-Plates kicking around for a 440 Mopar, but you guys can all find a decent Cyl. Head, Bolt it on, and build your own block-off plate with a Tire Valve, cover the 2 water pump holes at the front of the block,  to do one side at a time.

We found the extra hour in Labor on each engine(our expense), far more beneficial, than standing red-faced with a "puddle of Prestone" at our feet in the Dyno room, in front of our "money spending" guys !
I hate Prestone "soakers" on my sneakers !
Step SLOP, Step SLOP, Step SLOP,
Geeeez !

OR, You'd be amazed at where these things can leak internally !
"porosity" is a factor.

Get an old Cyl. Head, and pressure up the water jackets FIRST before proceeding !

Damn !

I wrote another NOVEL !

Awfully sorry 'bout that again Fellas
Bob out.

[max]

Sorry for your pain, that just plain sucks, the guy should be shot with a lump of his own Poo !

Just trivia for anybody interested.

Given that these stock blocks are getting so old now, and core history is unknown at best these days, heres what we do prior to accepting a "core" for machining, NOW !

We Mag first of course, all critical areas, however, we have been stung by writing "no evidence found", proceeding, and later found somebody goofed !
Expensive warranty !
We ain't perfect !

Anyways, last 10 years or so, we ALWAYS bolt on a couple of Torque-plates to the decks with head gaskets after rough Boring & Decking, and use a jig we built to bolt on in place of the water pump housing with a "tire valve".
We then pressure it up with the frost plugs in place to around 30 psi, watch the gauge, and spray soapy water anywhere suspicious.

**
Not that everybody has a coupla Torque-Plates kicking around for a 440 Mopar, but you guys can all find a decent Cyl. Head, Bolt it on, and build your own block-off plate with a Tire Valve, cover the 2 water pump holes at the front of the block,  to do one side at a time.

We found the extra hour in Labor on each engine(our expense), far more beneficial, than standing red-faced with a "puddle of Prestone" at our feet in the Dyno room, in front of our "money spending" guys !
I hate Prestone "soakers" on my sneakers !
Step SLOP, Step SLOP, Step SLOP,
Geeeez !

OR, You'd be amazed at where these things can leak internally !
"porosity" is a factor.

Get an old Cyl. Head, and pressure up the water jackets FIRST before proceeding !

Damn !

I wrote another NOVEL !

Awfully sorry 'bout that again Fellas
Bob out.

Challenger340, that's a very good peice of advice and to be quite honest i was thinking about that earlier today. i have that one block that i'm going to try and fix but i wasn't sure just how to go about testing it before i built the engine.
thanks for posting that.

[poppa]

Hopefully this will help you with your problem . Been there,done that.    http://www.locknstitch.com

[poppa]

Or      http://www.muggyweld.com/   Haen't tried but ......maybe something to look into???

[darrin75]

This is the guy to not buy from, totally stiffed me. watch out from him
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY-400-small-block-FRESH-W-FRESH-350-trans-complete_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ015QQitemZ250182651195

[The70RT]

This is the guy to not buy from, totally stiffed me. watch out from him
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY-400-small-block-FRESH-W-FRESH-350-trans-complete_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ015QQitemZ250182651195

So give him some feedback  unless he's giving you money.