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Sub-Frame Connectors Better than other?

Started by Blown70, January 11, 2008, 12:42:05 PM

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Big Sugar

GUILTY ,......Yes I apologize to Dave at ART and to Robert (Colrmustang) for revising my posts after this all went down.
Dave , When Robert first expressed interest in possibly producing a few extra sets of Torque boxes for interested members on the 1st gen forum for a non profit price I supported his idea and agreed to purchase a set or two from him, I did not think of the other side of the story and for that I apologize.
  When I saw what was happening here on DC.com with regards to your side of the events, I quickly realized that some of my posts on 66-67charger site were not in the best taste, so I revised them. I did it out of respect for You and A.R.T. I realized that I was out of line for supporting the idea.
It was simply One Mopar enthusiast attempting to help another and it went too far.

My sincere apologies Dave
And too Robert as well for revising my posts behind his back.


Ron




[img]<table border="0" cellpadding="0" style="border-collapse: collapse" width="182" id="table1" height="202" bordercolorlight="#ECEBF1" bordercolordark="#E9DFD1" b

AutoRust

Big Sugar,
No worries, And a big thanks for the apoligy. I had no issues with yourself, just the guy trying to step on me.  :eek2:
If you need a good price on a set of Torque Boxes, ANYONE for that matter, give me a call. I can be persuaded to offer a deal, and always give 10% off the top on a set. Not a bad deal for the help it gives these cars.

What frosted me was the pictures that were posted of MY product, with someone announcing loudly and proudly they were going to copy them and undercut my prices and pass out a big savings to everyone that joined in with him.   :flame:    :flame:     :flame:
Thats just wrong in to many ways to discuss. So we will just leave it at that.    :slap: :slap:
I didnt mean to Hijack this thread and go on a tear.
You have to understand, its our livelihood, we do this to eat. I defend our company vigourously (perhaps a bit overwhelmingly at times).
My company has earned the respect of the Mopar community, and we value that. We charge a fair price for our products, and we reinvest the profits we earn back into the company.We dont go buy big boats or race cars, we try to develop new products to help keep the sport growing Our first set of Torque Boxes was for the 66-70 B-body. Then we developed ones for the E-body, Then for the 67-76 A-body. Then for the 71-72 B-body, then the 62-66 A-body, them the 62-65 B-body, the the 76-80 F-body.
We keep trying to help.  We  try to give back to the Mopar community whenever possible by supporting the Magazines and the Events at Carlisle and the Nats in Ohio. We appreciate the customers that have supported us, and we hope to earn there business again in the future.  :yesnod:

Thanks for the understanding.

Dave

:cheers:


Nothing to see here folks, its just a Bluesmobile

colrmustang

Dave,

For what my word is worth, probably very little to you, what I did was not meant to step on toes or be made more than ONCE. Hindsight is 20/20 they say, and for what its worth, this whole thing is the stupidest waste of both our times. In the ultimate end, you didn't lose ANY business, trust me. As for me, just another reason to never help another person; getting stabbed in the back by people you are trying to help (not referencing Ron in any way shape or form) doesn't bring about good feelings.
1966 Dodge Charger 426 Hemi/727 Trans = Metal Repair Underway
Dallas, Texas

AutoRust

colrmustang, I am sure if I felt up to it, I could go sentence vs. sentence with you, refute your point, make counterpoints, and basically win every part of your arguments.
Frankly I have no interest in that at this time.

Please dont copy other peoples products. And dont jump into a forum where they are an active member, and tell everyone your gonna sell some and give them a "better" deal them what I do.  That just pisses people off big time, which "might" be why the response to your "offer" was less then favorable.
I might strongly suggest some type of action is needed by yourself on 66-67 charger forum also

Dave

:cheers:
Nothing to see here folks, its just a Bluesmobile

A383Wing

You 2 guys need to get a room by yourselves......  :Twocents:

troy.70R/T

This question is for anyone who is welding in the U.S. Car Tool Or the XV Motor Sports frame connectors. How far apart are you spacing your welds along the floor pan?

Steve P.

I believe they are welding these completely. All done by stitching, but full weld when done.
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

jb666

Quote from: AutoRust on March 15, 2009, 12:07:23 AM
colrmustang, I am sure if I felt up to it, I could go sentence vs. sentence with you, refute your point, make counterpoints, and basically win every part of your arguments.
Frankly I have no interest in that at this time.

Please dont copy other peoples products. And dont jump into a forum where they are an active member, and tell everyone your gonna sell some and give them a "better" deal them what I do.  That just pisses people off big time, which "might" be why the response to your "offer" was less then favorable.
I might strongly suggest some type of action is needed by yourself on 66-67 charger forum also

Dave

:cheers:

Dave, you have my support, and my business. The fact that you are an honest local business man who actually CARES about our hobbies shows me a lot. We'll be talking very soon, but I look forward to seeing you this summer  :cheers: :cheers:

FLG

Quote from: jb666 on March 21, 2009, 02:47:36 PM
Quote from: AutoRust on March 15, 2009, 12:07:23 AM
colrmustang, I am sure if I felt up to it, I could go sentence vs. sentence with you, refute your point, make counterpoints, and basically win every part of your arguments.
Frankly I have no interest in that at this time.

Please dont copy other peoples products. And dont jump into a forum where they are an active member, and tell everyone your gonna sell some and give them a "better" deal them what I do.  That just pisses people off big time, which "might" be why the response to your "offer" was less then favorable.
I might strongly suggest some type of action is needed by yourself on 66-67 charger forum also

Dave

:cheers:

Dave, you have my support, and my business. The fact that you are an honest local business man who actually CARES about our hobbies shows me a lot. We'll be talking very soon, but I look forward to seeing you this summer  :cheers: :cheers:

I second that. I got rear rails from Dave. He and the rest of the guys at auto rust are great.

troy.70R/T

Thanks Steve. I guess now would be a good time for me to buy the auto darkening welding helmet that i have always wanted.

Steve P.

Quote from: troy.70R/T on March 22, 2009, 12:13:34 PM
Thanks Steve. I guess now would be a good time for me to buy the auto darkening welding helmet that i have always wanted.


Yeah man... I LOVE mine.... Large window. Under $200.00 @ Central Tractor Supply.  The best thing for me since I don't get to weld very often. It is one less thing to mess with you when getting use to welding again..  :2thumbs:
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

troy.70R/T

I have been looking for a helmet with a big window but all I can find is the small window. What brand is your big window helmet. Also is yours adjustable for the darkness?

Steve P.

It's a Hobart and is adjustable. It's a few years old now and last I used it was still working perfectly. Only I screwed up. It is a smaller window. I use to use a MILLER helmet at Florida Power. I must have had that in mind. Those were BIG BUCK helmets. I do like mine though. No troubles at all and I don't weld every day. Meaning it is quick to get use to and very comfortable and light on your head.

I think I last saw them for around $100.00 there, but didn't really spend the time to see if it was the same one... My buddy bought one there last year for around $80.00 and uses his all the time without complaints... Who knows in today's market though.  :shruggy:
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

troy.70R/T


Steve P.

Glad to help. Something I meant to stress is the weight. My old helmet was quite a bit heavier than this one and it makes a monster difference. Lighter is WAY better....  Very little fatigue in comparison to the old one.


:cheers:
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

troy.70R/T

Well I finally gor a welder and helmet and fram connectors and am ready to weld them in. I see some pics but was wondering if anyone could give me some measurements on where to weld them in at.  Obviously the one that slips over the frame in the rear is a no brainer but I need a measurement on where the front should be welded on. I see in on pic that there is a place cut out for I assume the fuel line???. I bought U.S. Car tool connectors. It also looks like in one pic that the front part of the frame connector actually has a samll tab that over laps the bottom of the frame rail. Mine do not have this. extra little tab. Just wondering if maybe my eyes are playing tricks on me. Thanks for any help guys. Troy 

Steve P.

I have NOT seen the US Car Tool connectors up close, but I think the hole is for your e-brake cable. I'm not terribly familiar with Charger frames, but for the Coronet some companies have the hole pre-cut. I have seen others that are just drilled and not elongated.  :shruggy:  Didn't you get any instructions with the rails? 
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

mopar_nut_440_6

I purchased and installed the US cartool connectors. I installed the rear first and then measured from the rocker over to the frame rail at the front and rear to set up square and double checked with a square off of the trans x-member. The tabs goes over the x- member. My connectors had no holes for the e brake cable but I added a tube through the connector.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,54980.20.html
1968 Charger R/T 440 
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 680 HP Cummins with attitude

troy.70R/T

Well I am pretty sure they Are US Car Tool but might be auto rust. Any way they didn't come with any instructions. there are no holes drilled anywhere on them and nothing cut out for the brake cable either. They also don't have that tab on them. How far over are your from your rocker panel.?

mopar_nut_440_6

Quote from: troy.70R/T on May 31, 2009, 01:22:56 AM
Well I am pretty sure they Are US Car Tool but might be auto rust. Any way they didn't come with any instructions. there are no holes drilled anywhere on them and nothing cut out for the brake cable either. They also don't have that tab on them. How far over are your from your rocker panel.?

I would recommend just installing the rear section over your frame rail and then move to the transmisson x-member and square up the rail there. You can also take a measurement from the side of your rocker over to the connector at the front and rear to make sure they are square.
1968 Charger R/T 440 
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 680 HP Cummins with attitude

troy.70R/T

Thats what I was wondering. I just want to make sure that the car was designed so that the rocker would be square all the way along it. I guess what I am trying to say is I hope there is not an angle to the rocker panel.

troy.70R/T

Can anyone please give me some measurements??? I would like to know the measurement from the edge of the new frame rails to the edge of the torsion bar hub that it welded to the cross member. My inner rockers are a little bent up from installing the new outer rockers and I just want to make sure I get them in the right spot and not off a 1/4 inch. I could really use this informatin ASAP as I have this whole week off to work on my car. Thanks Troy

Blakcharger440

In one of the mopar mags XVmotorsports say that the MP style connectors actually stabilize the frame better than the other car tool type,but for the sake of looks the car tool type look more "factory". 


I think either way you go you are doing a worthwhile upgrade and making the frame more rigid.  :2thumbs:

mopar_nut_440_6

Quote from: troy.70R/T on June 14, 2009, 06:37:16 PM
Can anyone please give me some measurements??? I would like to know the measurement from the edge of the new frame rails to the edge of the torsion bar hub that it welded to the cross member. My inner rockers are a little bent up from installing the new outer rockers and I just want to make sure I get them in the right spot and not off a 1/4 inch. I could really use this informatin ASAP as I have this whole week off to work on my car. Thanks Troy

Hi Troy,

Sorry I just saw your post this morning and am working for 12 hours. I will get you a measurement later.

No offense, but I think you are worrying too much about this measurement.

Not trying to be a broken record but if you slide the rear of the frame connectors over the rear frame section and support it here,
then move to the front and lift it up into place,
take a square and square the connector to the transmission cross member,
then measure side to side and see how close you are before welding, you should find that they are very close and can make adjustments from there.

Let me know how it goes and good luck. It takes a bit of work to get them fitted but once that is done the rest goes pretty well and the finished product is very nice.
1968 Charger R/T 440 
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 680 HP Cummins with attitude

troy.70R/T

Thanks Mopar Nut I would appreciate it. I have used the square and then measured and am off from the front to the back by about 7/16 of an inch. And like I said my rockers are a little bit tweeked in places from when the rockers were put on. The square fits perfect but I just want to make 100 percent sure I have these in the right location. waiting a little longer now is much better than having regrets later. I probably am being to picky but my car is not on a rotisery so Ireallt don't want to have to start all over. That would be an even bigger pain. Thanks again I appreciate  the help.