How can I remove the RV-2 Compressor EPR valve?

[WH23G3G]

I guess it's ok to post here, there's not an A/C section. Anyway I'm going with the RV-2 compressor setup on my 73 just like original since it's all still available. Looking in the 73 chassis manual it says you have to have a special tool to stick in the EPR valve and turn it counterclockwise to remove. I'm sure you can't find this tool easily anymore, so what can I use to get it? Can I reuse my original EPR valve that's in my compressor now? How do I know if it's any good? The A/C wasn't hooked up when I got the car because there was a motor swap done. I'm going to buy a remanufactured RV-2 compressor, and new clutch this weekend while it's on discount and in stock. So I need to trade in my old RV-2 for the core charge, but the new compressor doesn't come with an EPR valve. So I need to keep my old one and buy an NOS one.

[471_Magnum]

Will you be running r12 or r134a?

If you will be converting to the latter, I recommend removing the EPR and leaving it out, then install a thermostatic switch with a probe in the evaporator.

Better still, dump the RV2 and install a Sanden. Bouchillon Performance offers a kit for this conversion. It's lighter, quiter, more efficient and WAY more reliable than a remanufactured (or brand new for that matter) RV2.

That being said, your original EPR is probably okay if you stick with R12. It's been a few years, but I don't recall any special tool being required for removal.

[WH23G3G]

I just realized that the RV2 I have now is probably the one from the original 318 which is what the car originally came with. I got the car with the 400. So I bet the bracket is for the 318. I wanted to go with the R134a and still use the RV2 because I can get it cheap. I already have the A/C evaporator box rebuilt, with new heater core, evaporator, and seals and it's already tucked up under the dash. I've got all the original hoses from a 400 A/C equipped Charger which I will get remade with R134a compatible hose. I wanted to use the Sanden conversion, but I want to use my original hoses, although redone, and keep the routing the same and still be able to use all the original wiring, condenser, drier, and expansion valve, and evaporator.

[471_Magnum]

The EPR valve won't be properly calibrated for r134a. It may or may not work, but performance WILL suffer. You need to dump it and install a thermostatic switch in-line with the clutch coil. BUT, the RV2 clutch is designed for continuous duty, so it may wear out prematurely.

The other problem is the RV2 originally did not have a shaft seal that is compatible with r134a. Remanufactured units may or may not have the correct seal. It's a crap shoot.

It's fairly easy to adapt the factory refrigerant lines to a Sanden compressor. I did it on my Charger. It helps to have a local shop that can crimp the lines for you. Many autoparts stores can do this as well as shops that do hydraulic repair work.

I spent a couple of years and many pounds of R12 trying to keep the RV2 system working in my Charger. I finally got fed up and went with the Sanden. I did not regret it.

http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/BPEaircondition.asp