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Author Topic: PPG K38 Paint Help.........  (Read 1382 times)
68mmcharger
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« Reply #60 on: August 18, 2008, 08:46:27 PM »

Thanks guys, you have provided me with lots of input. Some of it very lively.... and I have learned a lot.

As the starter of this thread my basic problem was spray gun not spraying steady spray and K38 drying in gun before it I could get 12 ounces or so out. Also primer surface was going on very dry and rough. There was a couple of things causing my problems. Biggest appears to have been the strainer in the gun slowing spray combined with the 1.4 tip size. The Ingersol Rand gun I was using had no options for different tip sizes so I replaced it, based on recommendations, with a Devilbiss GTI set up with multiple tips. Using the 1.5 tip and no strainer, there is no comparison with the IR gun. Looks like the primer was drying in the IR gun due to the 90 degree temp and the long time I was taking trying to spray the primer with the inconsistent spray.

The GTI is working great so far and I disassemble and clean the cap, tip and needle after each use.  Since I have am restoring only this car at this point I needed a gun that ideally can used for primer, base and clear coat.

Sure is nice to have a site where one can get this sort of info and this much dialog.

69OUR/TEA - What tip size do you use for base and clear?

Kevin
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1hot68
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« Reply #61 on: August 18, 2008, 08:53:35 PM »

I could post hundreds of Pics of cars I've done in Various priming stages & resto stages But I really dont think people want to be bored with such things as all my k-38 & other primer pics. LEON.

You are right about that  yesnod But atleast we got to see a few!  Roll Eyes
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69 OUR/TEA
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« Reply #62 on: August 18, 2008, 08:57:42 PM »

Hey Kevin,
    great to hear it is working good for you,I use the 1.3 tip for base and clear,seeing that you are using PPG products,I usually use DBC for base,and  2042(when I need a fast clear,real nice stuff),and 2021 for my overall clear.
   
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68mmcharger
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« Reply #63 on: August 18, 2008, 09:45:30 PM »

69 OUR/TEA - Thanks for answering my question on tip sizes, even though you had already provided the info in a earlier post that I didn't read throughly.
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hemi-hampton
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« Reply #64 on: August 18, 2008, 09:54:44 PM »

 popcrn popcrn popcrn
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1hot68
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« Reply #65 on: August 18, 2008, 09:55:54 PM »

popcrn popcrn popcrn


 shruggy
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hemi-hampton
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« Reply #66 on: August 18, 2008, 10:00:45 PM »

 scratchchin
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1hot68
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« Reply #67 on: August 18, 2008, 10:03:25 PM »

scratchchin
poke  whistling  moon
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My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber.
hemi-hampton
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« Reply #68 on: August 18, 2008, 10:07:36 PM »

 Kiss Kiss Kiss Kiss
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Todd Wilson
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« Reply #69 on: August 18, 2008, 11:44:10 PM »

 popcrn
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83CHARGER2.2
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« Reply #70 on: August 21, 2008, 06:06:15 AM »

Kevin,

The bottom line is that your problems (two) were pot life and a spray gun choice.  The posts that I provided are basically saying that when purchasing a spray gun for a specific purpose, do not purchase something that you will be sorry for later.  I know that there are a lot of folks that may be purchasing $300 guns and then, disposing of them, but most of the time your money needs to count for equipment that you need.

As some folks are stating "I not saying You shouldnt have a dedicated primer gun, But it dont have to be a cheapy! a good older paint gun works well too", and that a GTI works for 69OUR/TEA, that is great. But there are a lot of contridicting going on.   In the world of urethane primers, you want a piece of equipment that will work 100% for that application.  A primer gun is made for primer, just that.  A worn gun or a topcoat gun are not designed for primer. 

As 1hot68 stated that there is he said she said info, he may be correct for other posts, but not mine.  I stated that I checked a PPG Rep just as a reference to verify my own usage and understandings.  You, know a double check, that is what a factory REP is for. 

I also feel that someone who is recommending a topcoat gun, and telling me that I am not basing my explanation on field experience, should evaluate himself again.  I have been painting vehicles for flat rate, restoration, and commercial for over 20 years.  I am not saying I am the best either, as some folks imply.  I have two GTI's which I do not even use anymore, and my primary guns are SATA NR3000's and RP 3000's.  Small tip guns for base, especially high metallic colors, 1.4 for Clear. 

I have worked in primarily PPG Shops using K38, NCP 271, DPHS 52,etc and I have always used a specific DEDICATED primer gun for primer. 

When you are priming a large area (overall of a car, Nose of a over the road truck, EUCLID, etc) in FLorida, you will give yourself an education and get the correct setup for what works in hot temps, with fast drying products.  I would like to know how much K38 69 OUR/TEA has even sprayed?HuhHuhHuhHuh?

Every one will have their own opinion, but they all have to base upon the basics and the facts of a product.  WIll a worn gun work for primer,  sure.  What wheres?  The packing, the needle, etc.  If the gun was so good as a topcoat gun, then why not rebuild at a fraction of the cost?  (If it was a good namebrand gun to start with?). 

Do not forget, in most professional environments, HVLP is a must, and fines are given for shops without these HVLP Guns in use.   There for older guns are unacceptable.   Hopefully you have solved or worked around your problems, and have achieved success.  Good Luck.
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1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #71 on: August 22, 2008, 08:53:50 AM »

Roll Eyes        icon_smile_big         painting pink   Well that was an interesting thread.
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Todd Wilson
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« Reply #72 on: August 25, 2008, 09:56:07 AM »

I think you all are wrong and dont know what you are talking about...........

 poke


Todd

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dads_69
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« Reply #73 on: August 25, 2008, 11:42:46 AM »

Holy crap, all this (political debate) over some primer use? My two cents, like it's worth a damn right now.
Every paint has it's own designated use, primer, base coats single stage clear etc...
IMO, anyone using a GTI for primer, well, if it were my gun that person was using, he/her would be fired!
Primer requires at least, for correct amount applied a 1.5 to 2.0 tip. yes, you can use *whatever8 gun tip *you* chose to shoot primer with, but the correct amount of primer will not be laid down, unless you apply more then needed for whatever your doing.
As for *83charger2.2* you don't use your GTI guns anymore, sweet, give them to me! Unless they're worn out, keep 'em.
I shoot PPG, Dupont, Nasson, etc... All brands of paint, primer clear. It's my job to do what makes the customer happy. Certified in 4 paint products as well.
In closing, use a gun specified for primer only, just like a gun is used for base coats and clear only. Thats how the best results end up in the end.

Gees, what a long ass post this has turned into.

83charger2.2, a 1.4 tip for clear, wow, your really dumping the material on buddy, try a 1.2 tip w/your GTI gun and see the savings/difference.



Mark
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1hot68
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« Reply #74 on: August 25, 2008, 01:32:57 PM »

Holy crap, all this (political debate) over some primer use? My two cents, like it's worth a damn right now.
Every paint has it's own designated use, primer, base coats single stage clear etc...
IMO, anyone using a GTI for primer, well, if it were my gun that person was using, he/her would be fired!
Primer requires at least, for correct amount applied a 1.5 to 2.0 tip. yes, you can use *whatever8 gun tip *you* chose to shoot primer with, but the correct amount of primer will not be laid down, unless you apply more then needed for whatever your doing.
As for *83charger2.2* you don't use your GTI guns anymore, sweet, give them to me! Unless they're worn out, keep 'em.
I shoot PPG, Dupont, Nasson, etc... All brands of paint, primer clear. It's my job to do what makes the customer happy. Certified in 4 paint products as well.
In closing, use a gun specified for primer only, just like a gun is used for base coats and clear only. Thats how the best results end up in the end.

Gees, what a long ass post this has turned into.

83charger2.2, a 1.4 tip for clear, wow, your really dumping the material on buddy, try a 1.2 tip w/your GTI gun and see the savings/difference.



Mark

I think the main problem is that most people in this thread are missing the point............This guy is one guy doing one car, not a fully equiped resto shop !!!! he wanted a good gun to use for all aspects of doing his ONE car and he bought the gun, likes it,and is very happy with the results!! So I say we leave him be , and everyone can stop pumping their chests and go do some work!!
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My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber.
dads_69
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« Reply #75 on: August 25, 2008, 03:05:17 PM »

I couldn't agree more w/you. I'm almost sorry I even put in my two cents, but after reading some of the replies, well, oh well. Good luck w/the project.
FWIW, I use a lot of the roll primer by PPG in my garage. Works awesome, but for doing a complete car, never tried it myself, yet. Standard primer can be rolled as well, just goes on a lot thinner but gets the job done.

Mark
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hemi-hampton
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« Reply #76 on: August 25, 2008, 05:07:46 PM »

 no violin horse
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83CHARGER2.2
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« Reply #77 on: August 27, 2008, 06:06:03 AM »

No Chest pumping here, but Dads 68, you may want to try a Sata RP with a 1.4.  It is not a fire hose, but a finely atomizing German Spray Gun.  Most folks that use Sata's never go back to anything else.  I don't use the GTI's anymore just because when something works better for you, you normally stick with it.   Good luck with the SXA1060 , or whatever primers you are rolling on.
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dads_69
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« Reply #78 on: August 27, 2008, 11:21:45 AM »

I tried the Sata primer gun, didn't like it either. I'm after mill thickness when applying primer, not how well it lays out/evenly. Normally two coats maybe three depending on what I'm covering w/K-38 or Dupont primer.
I block most work down first w/240 then re-coat w/1 or 2 more then 320 wet sand if it's a resto job. If it's a collision repair quickie, then 3 coats w/my 1.8 tip gun and block down 280 dry and done.
Call me stubborn or cheap, but the price of a Sata gun is ridiculous. There are many others out there that do an equivlent job for less price.
Who's pumping out their chest here anyways? We're just discussing a paint issue.  shruggy

Mark
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1hot68
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« Reply #79 on: August 27, 2008, 12:48:28 PM »


Who's pumping out their chest here anyways? We're just discussing a paint issue.  shruggy

Mark

Mark ,I was not referring to you.... If you read back through the thread you will see who I am referring too.
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1968 Dodge Charger R/T Clone...493 stroker Tremec 5 Speed And Dana60 3.54Sure-Grip

My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber.
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