Naval Jelly...What the heck??!?!?!?!?

[jdiesel33]

After much research, I decided to try and rid my frame rails and floor pan of rust instead of using a "rust converter". Aside from using a wire wheel or blasting, the best thing I found, on paper anyway,thru research for rust removal was Naval Jelly. So I went and bought some "Naval Jelly Rust Dissolver". I followed the directions to a tee. Remove loose rust and dirt with a wire brush, spread jelly on liberally, waited 10 minutes, washed off with fresh water. No change at all. No rust dissolved or removed. It says for heavy rust, repeat the process. So I did. No change at all. Did it one more time and still no change!!!!! What the heck? Everything I read on the web, even on this site, said this stuff works great. I guess now I will just use the wire wheel and for those spots I cant reach, such as inside the frame rails, I will use a rust inhibitor. Just nervous about those, as I have read more negative things about them than I like.

[Mopar2Ya]

I used the jelly many yrs ago, IIRC it works but not very well. I'd blast any thing you can, diegrinders w/3m pads work well too. What to do inside the rails, good question?

[runningman]

I used that safest rust remover stuff, if you are going to use it for that type of application you would have to set up a little pump to recirculate it but that stuff has worked good for me..........

[The70RT]

Other than really light stuff your gonna have to blast it or use manual labor.

[jdiesel33]

Other than really light stuff your gonna have to blast it or use manual labor.

That's probably most of the problem-this rust isnt light!!!
Blasting sounds like a great option, but from my understanding I would either have to take it somewhere for them to do or would have to have a really large,powerful compressor to do at home. I will try the manual labor route with wire wheels and sanding. I dont mind the work, just want to do it the best way.

[runningman]

I sand blasted my frame rails with a fairly small compressor and one of those pressurized blast units from Harbor Freight.  It is time consuming and messy but came out great..

[69*F5*SE]

Naval Jelly is good for getting rust off of chrome etc. but not for what you need.  Blasting is the way to go most likely.  That is what I had to do also. 

[Daytona R/T SE]

This crap doesn't work either:

http://www.rusteco.com/

I spent $80 on this snake oil, I could have removed more rust by drinking several

beers and pissing on the parts.

Totally useless.

Beware.

Run Forest, RUN!

[Old Moparz]

It seems the only effective way to get rid of rust is what others have posted, by stripping, blasting, & sanding. Once stripped, I've used a paint type product called "Master Series Permanent Rust Sealer" after stripping off most of the rust as well as just wire brushing off the loose scale & it works good. I even bought 2 more quarts of it at a swap meet 2 weekends ago, 1 for me & 1 for a friend. We've both used it on & off for almost 20 years & it holds up well. I had posted a bunch of info once before on it, but it may have been the old DC.com since I can't find it.

The website has a lot of pages, but it's worth reading.

Link:
http://www.nomorerust.com/

Als, my friend bought POR-15 when he ran out of this stuff once, & said in comparing the 2 of them, he'd never use the POR-15 again, it sucks.

They also sell a ceramic coating paint product that can be used on exhaust manifolds. It's designed for high temperatures & can be brushed on like paint. I never used it, but bought some to test out on my manifolds. I'll post back about that some other time with a new thread & let everyone know what I think of it.

[hotrod98]

I used POR-15 once and thought that it was the worst stuff that I had ever used.
Glad to see that I wasn't the only one that had a problem with it. 

If you have rust in an area that can't be sanded, etc., just use Rust-Mort.
Follow the directions. It has to be washed off with water to neutralize it or it keeps working. It's an acid type product that converts rust permanently.
Works great down in seams to stop the rust from eating everything in it's path.

[Neal_J]

Naval Jelly is the absolute worst!!!

It tastes terrible on a samwich with peanut butter PLUS it was worthless in getting the lint, fuzz & other  stuff outta my belly button.

Talk about double disappointment!!

Neal

[Chad L. Magee]

Naval Jelly is the absolute worst!!!

It tastes terrible on a samwich with peanut butter PLUS it was worthless in getting the lint, fuzz & other  stuff outta my belly button.

Talk about double disappointment!!

Neal

[Chad L. Magee]

Navel Jelly will work, but it takes alot of patience to get it done right and it is better to use on small areas of rust.  I used it to restore the rusty parts on fender tags (and old licence plates), but even then, it would take a few weeks of occationally working on them with the rusty areas to get them totally rust free.  I would coat them, wait 30 minutes, wash and dry, then repeat the process three times a day.  It is slow, but it did work for stopping the severe pitting that was happening on some of my tags...... 

[Silver R/T]

only time I see problems with por15 when someone uses it that doesn't know how to use it.

[hemi-hampton]

Only way to get rid of super heavy duty thick rust is sandblast, Navel Jelly is good for lightly rusted parts. Navel Jelly is nothing more then Oxalic Acid Diluted. I use 100% pure white Crystalline Oxalic Acid & it works good but only good for dipping parts into a bucket like bracketts ect. Heres a Pic of before & after with Acid with Subject Item only half submerged for a half & half example. LEON.

[BlueSS454]

I used POR-15 once and thought that it was the worst stuff that I had ever used.
Glad to see that I wasn't the only one that had a problem with it. 

Thank You, Thank You, Thank You, Thank You, Thank You, Thank You, Thank You, Thank You.  FINALLY, someone else besides me thinks that stuff is absolute GARBAGE.  Long and the short of it, you can't apply ANY of these magical coatings on rust to seal it, dissolve it, convert it, etc.  The only way to get rid of it is to remove it by cutting it out or blasting it.  Covering it up only hides it, it doesn't make it go away.  I do realize that there are areas you simply can't get too to do this, BUT, most of those areas are surface rust and not deep pitted rust.  It took 40 years for it to be there, it's not going to hurt anything if it's still there.
Once the rust is blasted away or cut & replaced, all you need to do is epoxy primer it and paint it, then your done.  The epoxy seals the metal from moisture and the paint adds a little more sealing power to it.

[69*F5*SE]

I've used POR-15 before and think it sucks also.  Although, I spilled some on the floor of my garage and it's still there. Maybe they should sell the stuff as floor epoxy.     Ted

[Charger-Bodie]

I used POR-15 once and thought that it was the worst stuff that I had ever used.
Glad to see that I wasn't the only one that had a problem with it. 

Thank You, Thank You, Thank You, Thank You, Thank You, Thank You, Thank You, Thank You.  FINALLY, someone else besides me thinks that stuff is absolute GARBAGE.  Long and the short of it, you can't apply ANY of these magical coatings on rust to seal it, dissolve it, convert it, etc.  The only way to get rid of it is to remove it by cutting it out or blasting it.  Covering it up only hides it, it doesn't make it go away.  I do realize that there are areas you simply can't get too to do this, BUT, most of those areas are surface rust and not deep pitted rust.  It took 40 years for it to be there, it's not going to hurt anything if it's still there.
Once the rust is blasted away or cut & replaced, all you need to do is epoxy primer it and paint it, then your done.  The epoxy seals the metal from moisture and the paint adds a little more sealing power to it.

I too agree with you 199%

[Silver R/T]

Blame "user error" on the product  Just cause it didn't work for you doesn't mean it's junk. That's the same reason some guys still use LEAD instead of body filler... They're just ....."old school"

[Charger-Bodie]

Blame "user error" on the product  Just cause it didn't work for you doesn't mean it's junk. That's the same reason some guys still use LEAD instead of body filler... They're just ....."old school"

When was the last time you heard someone say: Damit, I sansblasted it and epoxied it and it fell off?

There are way to many variables with those miricle products....Just clean the metal properly and then treat the metal properly.........Way better success ratio.

[Silver R/T]

Blame "user error" on the product  Just cause it didn't work for you doesn't mean it's junk. That's the same reason some guys still use LEAD instead of body filler... They're just ....."old school"

When was the last time you heard someone say: Damit, I sansblasted it and epoxied it and it fell off?

There are way to many variables with those miricle products....Just clean the metal properly and then treat the metal properly.........Way better success ratio.

I agree you have to clean area to be treated. You can't just slap on ANY product period and expect it to hold up.
In case with por15 you need to remove any scaling rust, grime, dirt before you use it. They recommend their product for cleaning area to be treated but you can use acetone, wax and grease remover. You can't slap it on rusted through sheetmetal and expect it to fix the problem. It is for surface rust ONLY.
I do not say you have to use por15 all the time but in cases where you can't get your spray gun into, non-cosmetical areas, etc. it's perfect.
Of course best method is to sandblast rusted area, fill in any pots from rust and go on with your epoxy primer/paint and so on. Unfortunately not everyone has access to big compressor/sandblaster/paint booth.

[hermopar383]

I got the POR15  stuff too.   Sprayed 1/2 gallon on everything . . sat & watched . . .   
. . nothing . . sprayed another 1/2 gallon on everything.   By now, I've got carpell tunnel and the metal still didn't look shiny and new and the tires were still flat.

I was looking for that magical stuff that you spray on and fixes everything.   Back to the drawing board.   

[b5blue]

OSPHO works great! Keep re coating and even deep rust will come loose. Turns rust black. It's got to work good it burns like hell if you get it on you!

[Silver R/T]

^^^ lol you're funny man, that's hilarious. First you can't spray it on everything man, (only rusted areas) 2nd how did you spray it since it's so thick in a can. You can't over reduce it or it's going to change its characteristics too much. Like I've said before blame user error on the product, it just gets funnier every time someone doesn't read directions and uses product without results that they were expecting.

[BlueSS454]

Just throw that POR 15 crap in the garbage can where it belongs.

[Daytona R/T SE]

I've had terrific results with POR-15.

Goes on easy, sticks like hell, tough as nails, stops the rust dead.

I'm just not seein' the sucky part. 

[superduperbee]

Only way to get rid of super heavy duty thick rust is sandblast, Navel Jelly is good for lightly rusted parts. Navel Jelly is nothing more then Oxalic Acid Diluted. I use 100% pure white Crystalline Oxalic Acid & it works good but only good for dipping parts into a bucket like bracketts ect. Heres a Pic of before & after with Acid with Subject Item only half submerged for a half & half example. LEON.

Unless you're into Half & Half and bondage like Leon blasting is the way to go. I tried those 'Miracles in a can' years ago, totally worthless.

[jdiesel33]

What media do you guys recommend for blasting? After some preliminary research, looks like sand may not be the best based on safety of the part(s) being blasted and for dust and particle release into the air. What other media have you guys used that has worked well?

[The70RT]

What media do you guys recommend for blasting? After some preliminary research, looks like sand may not be the best based on safety of the part(s) being blasted and for dust and particle release into the air. What other media have you guys used that has worked well?

Coal slag works on the tough rust. It is pretty coarse though. I found it hard to find any kind of blasting sand due to all the lawsuits (silica)......at least that's what all the places tell me.  But that is around Topeka. I am sure KC has more places.You can get the fine for blast cabinets at harbor freight but I wasn't about to pay 50 bucks for a cubic foot.

[69*F5*SE]

I used silica, but I also wore a good respirator underneath my blasting hood along with some good safety glasses.  It's not an easy job to blast the underside of a car on your back.  Be prepared.     Of course I had the necessary tools needed to pull the job off., big compressor, pressure blaster etc..  Oh yeah, mine still isn't done yet.  If I only had a rotisserie.   

[BlueSS454]

I've had terrific results with POR-15.

Goes on easy, sticks like hell, tough as nails, stops the rust dead.

I'm just not seein' the sucky part. 

Does it stop the rust on the other side?  That is a rhetorical question by the way.  There's nothing to stop it from continuing on to the metal in the center and beyond.  Think of it as digging a hole.  If someone covers up the top where you started, who's gonna stop you from diggin more?  Answer:  No one.

I had mine sandblasted.  Just don't do the deck lid or trunk...it WILL warp those 2 pieces.  Also, make sure you take it to someone that specializes in autos.

[Silver R/T]

I've had terrific results with POR-15.

Goes on easy, sticks like hell, tough as nails, stops the rust dead.

I'm just not seein' the sucky part. 

Does it stop the rust on the other side?  That is a rhetorical question by the way.  There's nothing to stop it from continuing on to the metal in the center and beyond.  Think of it as digging a hole.  If someone covers up the top where you started, who's gonna stop you from diggin more?  Answer:  No one.

I had mine sandblasted.  Just don't do the deck lid or trunk...it WILL warp those 2 pieces.  Also, make sure you take it to someone that specializes in autos.

From what I've learned when I went to auto body school, for the rust to form you need 2 things. Moisture and air. POR15 is practically impenetrable so there's no way for the air or water to get through it. Now if you got hole on the backside where air/moisture can get through that's a different story then.

[BlueSS454]

I went to autobody school too.  You do need those 2 items for rust.  Also keep in mind that rust is a chemical reaction also.  Once it begins, the only way to stop it is to eliminate it.  I don't ever remember being taught or told to cover up rust while I was there either.

[troy.70R/T]

I buy the black silica sand at Menards (I think it is called Black Magnum)it is about $7.00 dollars for a 80lb bag. Get the pressurized blaster a hood and a good resperator. once silica sand is in your lungs it does not come out. You should beable to rent a large or small air compressor from a rental place around where you live. I have blasted cars and truck frames out in the yard. buy some black ploy and roll it out. it will help to catch alot of the sand. You will also be able to reuse some of it as long as you get a strainer so that no big particals go back into your blaster and pulg the nozzle.

[68pplcharger]

I agree, I've used miracle products before and they only work under perfect conditions. I don't live in that world and those conditions don't come around Kentucky that often.

[73rallye440magnum]

We recently started using a product called Phix at work. I cannot remember who makes it- I'm sure they have a website. It works!