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Stroked 383 and??

Started by 1970Moparmann, March 12, 2009, 10:24:14 PM

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1970Moparmann

Hey guys,

I'm stroking a 383 with a 440 Source package.  Also planning on 440 Source Aluminum heads. I'm stuck on two things-

1. I'm leaning towards a M1 single plane intake, but I can't find anything saying it will fit.  Or, what would some suggestions be?  The car is a street rod, and will be my driver..... Plan on doing the Hot Rod Power Tour, and more!  Suggestions?

2. Aluminum Radiator?  What are some suggestions?

The car I'm restoring is a 68 Charger.

Thanks!
My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!

aifilaw

street rod, and hot rod power tour are semi-mutually exclusive.

Which 383 stroker kit, 3.75" crank, or 4?
What rear gears?
What Transmission?

That will detirmine the intake, and partially the camshaft
'72 B5 Metallic Blue Hardtop
426" Wedge - Hydraulic Roller Stealth heads

1970Moparmann

Looking at the 3.75" crank/3.55 gear/saving up for a Keisler 5 speed.

Thanks!
My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!

aifilaw

The keisler 5-speed has some power limitations as far as the amount of torque you can dump into it before it breaks, It's been years since I saw a discussion about this, but might be something you should look into.

I would rather recommend the performer RPM gap dual plane for an intake, You are making a torque motor, it will only help and does as well as most single-planes in the higher RPM's. Another consideration is fuel mileage and where you will be with your gears in that setup, regardless of cruising or the strip I'd say with that tranny and rear you will benefit more from making the most of your low end.
Heads, headers, et cetera are all going to be part of the final questions to detirmining a cam, but I would say the 225-245 duration range with 10ish overlap will benefit the combo.
'72 B5 Metallic Blue Hardtop
426" Wedge - Hydraulic Roller Stealth heads

1970Moparmann

Quote from: aifilaw on March 13, 2009, 12:14:01 AM
The keisler 5-speed has some power limitations as far as the amount of torque you can dump into it before it breaks, It's been years since I saw a discussion about this, but might be something you should look into.

I would rather recommend the performer RPM gap dual plane for an intake, You are making a torque motor, it will only help and does as well as most single-planes in the higher RPM's. Another consideration is fuel mileage and where you will be with your gears in that setup, regardless of cruising or the strip I'd say with that tranny and rear you will benefit more from making the most of your low end.
Heads, headers, et cetera are all going to be part of the final questions to detirmining a cam, but I would say the 225-245 duration range with 10ish overlap will benefit the combo.

Thanks for the advice! :cheers:
My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!

ryan053

I have a stroked 383 to 434 in my 68 charger. I used the edelbrock rpm for my build. I would recommend going with a dual plane manifold also. Just a side thought, I had to get a drop base aircleaner cause that manifold is taller than most of the other ones out there.

firefighter3931

Quote from: 1970Moparmann on March 12, 2009, 10:24:14 PM

What are some suggestions?



If i were building that 383 with a kit it would be using a 3.9 stroke crank and flattop pistons at zero deck and bored .030 oversize. With the 84cc Stealth heads the resulting compression is 10.34:1 which is fine for pump gas.

The resulting displacement is 450 cubic inches and it will make lots of torque which is what you want with a heavy street car.

A Performer RPM or Holley Street Dominator would be fine for the intake manifold. It would need to be cammed accordingly.



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

1970Moparmann

O.k, I'm getting this thread going again.

Here's the update- I'm going a slight different route since I picked up a 400 block for next to nothing :cheers:.  I have it stroked out with a 500 kit with 440Source Stealth heads.  I'm upgrading the retainers and locks to the 10 degree for the potential known issue.  I'm planning on running an Eddy dual quad set-up but am wondering on some suggestions-

-Cam.  Looking at running A Comp Magnum Cam with a 550 lift Mechanical Roller.  I'm wondering how street friendly this will be?

-Fuel Pump.  Looking at the Holley High Volume mechanical.  Should this be o.k.?

-Radiator - looking at running an Aluminum, any suggestions?

If money is available, planning on running a Keisler 5 speed still, with a 391 gear.

Any ideas on HP?

Thanks!
My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!

Rolling_Thunder

Intake: you'll loose some hp potential running the dual 4bbl intake set up -

Camshaft: why a solid roller ?  I like hydraulic for street cars....   adjusting valves suck

Radiator: what did your car have originally ? I have had hit or miss on alum radiators....   some work well some work like shit

Fuel Pump: HV mechanical should be fine


If you run an Engle K58/K60 you should make around 525hp and 575tq...     

This is assuming headers - go with TTI
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

Ghoste

Everything he said.  The hangup word is "streetable"; when you talk about that and dual quads with roller cams it sounds contradictory.  Not to say both can be used on the street with great results.  It's just that typically whne someone says streetable they really mean low hassle and tuning a pair of four barrels to drive a car that is mostly set up for high rpm around the streets usually doesn't fall into low hassle.

1970Moparmann

Quote from: Rolling_Thunder on April 22, 2009, 01:21:53 AM
Intake: you'll loose some hp potential running the dual 4bbl intake set up -

Camshaft: why a solid roller ?  I like hydraulic for street cars....   adjusting valves suck

Radiator: what did your car have originally ? I have had hit or miss on alum radiators....   some work well some work like shit

Fuel Pump: HV mechanical should be fine


If you run an Engle K58/K60 you should make around 525hp and 575tq...     

This is assuming headers - go with TTI

An engine builder recommended the dual quad set up and the solid roller.  I'm looking for a street machine that will hit the track once in a while. I'm being a retard asking some of these questions, but why would a dual quad set up reduce HP?  Also, what's the advantages of a hydraulic cam?

Thanks for the help! :popcrn:
My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!

aifilaw

First of all, and 95% of the time they are right. someone who requires 800 cfm will lose power trying to run a pair of 400 cfm carbs rather than one 800 cfm because setting them up perfectly is a challenge.
Second, chances are you will have to get a pair of 600's because of affordability and feasibility, which is far more cfm than your engine can handle, and over-carbing an engine will result in a loss in performance 95% of the time.
'72 B5 Metallic Blue Hardtop
426" Wedge - Hydraulic Roller Stealth heads

Rolling_Thunder

The dual 4bbl intake makes less power because of fuel distribution and carb issues that usually revolve around tuning...    A customer of mine insisted on the same edelbrock dual 4bbl set up...     dyno tuned and all that - he later went to a single 4bbl intake and on the same dyno after tuning picked up 27hp at the wheels.... 

the advantages of a hydraulic cam is the fact the valvetrain does NOT need to be readjusted ever couple months...    A solid (mechanical) lifter engine requires the the valves be adjusted periodically.
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

1970Moparmann

Thanks for the info-makes sense! :cheers:

I read the whole thread again, and thought I put all of the information about my engine in it.  This would help with guidance.....

Engine - 400 Stroked to a 500.

Heads - Stealth heads, non ported and polished.

Rear end - will be going with a 3.55 or a 3.91

Trans - Keisler 5 speed

Has Power Brakes.....

Goal of car - awesome street machine with occasional trips to the track :2thumbs:.

I've read until my eyeballs hurt :icon_smile_dissapprove: :brickwall:

I talked to Hugh's today about a Cam, and he suggested the following-

lat Tappet Hydraulic / One Bolt Timing Gear. Use where rules demand a hydraulic camshaft. 3800rpm stall. 4.56:1 gear, large single plane or 2x4 intake. Stage II or Stage III HP ported heads. 200psi suggested cylinder pressure. Street/Strip for stroker engines.

Camshaft Technical Details
Intake Valve Lift 1.5
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.5    .576"
.593"
Intake Valve Lift 1.6
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.6    .614"
.632"
Intake Duration at .050"
Exhaust Duration at .050"    250°
255°
Lobe Separation Angle    108º
Intake Opening at .050"
Exhaust Opening at .050"    20° BTC
58.5° BBC
Intake Closing at .050"
Exhaust Closing at .050"    50° ABC
16.5° ATC
Min. Suggested Cylinder PSI    200
Sweet Spot RPM    2800 - 6000

Isn't this too high of a lift?  What is a good balance between max HP, able to idle, and driveable in all conditions? 

Hugh's also suggested an Eddy Victor manifold. Looking it this, not sure if I would have enough clarance with my stock hood-anyone know?  The test's that they have done, show the Victor is one of the best in performance.

Opinions please :popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn: :2thumbs:

My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!

Rolling_Thunder

honestly - Hughe's engines is the LAST place I would seek information - I have had ALL of their camshafts go flat on me....        And their customer service is up there with Keisler....     


1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

aifilaw

i only have time for a quick comment (working on pool)
spend an extra $50-100 on a 30-degree back-cut on the valves (exhaust at the very least, intake dependant on cam), and ensure the intake and exhaust seats are cleaned up...several of mine you could see light through parts when closed...
the back-cut will pick you up another 25 HP
'72 B5 Metallic Blue Hardtop
426" Wedge - Hydraulic Roller Stealth heads

Ghoste

BTW, you aren't being a retard by asking questions. :icon_smile_wink:

Purple440

Wow that looks like a race car to me.  I'm a newb myself, but with that cam duration/lift...3800 stall, and those gears, would that be a street machine?  And 200psi cyl pressure?  I have around 175psi cranking pressure myself, and I'm struggling with detonation even with the total timing down to 31 degrees and 110 race fuel mixed with 91...I'd hate to see it at 200psi, would probably have to ask the U.S. Navy for some fuel  :icon_smile_wink:  Of course my gears are only 3:55, plus a large rear tire bringing it to 3:23 ish, and iron open chamber heads.

Why would you ever want two carbs on a street machine??  But, if you can tune that setup, more power to you.

Good luck 1970Moparmann  :cheers:

- Doug


1970Moparmann

Quote from: Purple440 on April 23, 2009, 05:10:51 PM
Wow that looks like a race car to me.  I'm a newb myself, but with that cam duration/lift...3800 stall, and those gears, would that be a street machine?  And 200psi cyl pressure?  I have around 175psi cranking pressure myself, and I'm struggling with detonation even with the total timing down to 31 degrees and 110 race fuel mixed with 91...I'd hate to see it at 200psi, would probably have to ask the U.S. Navy for some fuel  :icon_smile_wink:  Of course my gears are only 3:55, plus a large rear tire bringing it to 3:23 ish, and iron open chamber heads.

Why would you ever want two carbs on a street machine??  But, if you can tune that setup, more power to you.

Good luck 1970Moparmann  :cheers:

- Doug

The guy building the engine for me is pushing me to put a solid roller in it, and I don't want the hassle.  He has a kickass 74 Challenger with a stroked 440 pushing 700 hp! :popcrn:  This thing is crazy insane :yesnod:  For me, I've always restored my cars to stock specs, for the most part :angel:.  This car, will be my fun toy that I'm going to have some real fun with! :rofl:  I was originally going to get a crate 500, but I'm real happy going the route that I am :2thumbs:.  Can't wait to get it on the road.


My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!