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My "Sick Pack" 440

Started by b5blue, March 31, 2009, 04:18:59 PM

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dstryr

On my fuel lines I usually put a little grease on the back of the flare so that the flare nut doesn't bind on the flair and twist it while tightening.  Sometimes the nut will want to twist the line just a little and then it could back off from vibration.   I keep the grease off the threads, though. 
dstryr, since 1986.

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62 Max

Quote from: dstryr on April 07, 2009, 12:34:37 PM
On my fuel lines I usually put a little grease on the back of the flare so that the flare nut doesn't bind on the flair and twist it while tightening.  Sometimes the nut will want to twist the line just a little and then it could back off from vibration.   I keep the grease off the threads, though. 

Frank,one more trick.Flare copper tubing,cut off the flare and use it between the fitting and line.They come right apart and you don't need to tighten them until they won't move anymore.

maxwellwedge

If it is the horizontal bowl vent valve tube it usually goes to a nipple on the breather. You can put an 8-10" hose on the tube and let it run towards the back.

mauve66

teflon tape works great on preventing fuel leaks and not having to tighten the hell out of the fittings either
Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment

Tom Q

I have one six pak set up that requires staggered jetting-one step difference in jet size in the ctr carb only.  The LM1 wideband a-f meter does not lie.

As far as using ss lines I don't think that ss is required or needed.  SS is unforgiving and will cause sealing problems sooner or later. I use a quick removal set up with old lines cut for rubber gas lines till the tune is correct and then I install the regular lines when finished.

john108

There are seals designed to work on flair tube fittings.
Many exist but the one I am thinking of is Voi-Shan conical seals.
http://www.toolsforaircraft.com/vsimain.html
Cheaper copies are available.

62 Max

Quote from: mauve66 on April 07, 2009, 06:02:20 PM
teflon tape works great on preventing fuel leaks and not having to tighten the hell out of the fittings either

Teflon tape works on the threads but is useless on flare fitting seats.

maxwellwedge

I have got and have had many Six-Packs and have never used any tapes or sealers and never had a leak at the lines. I am blessed.  :angel:

b5blue

THANK YOU FOR EVERY ONES INPUT!!  :2thumbs:

firefighter3931

Quote from: Tom Q on April 07, 2009, 06:14:10 PM
I have one six pak set up that requires staggered jetting-one step difference in jet size in the ctr carb only.  The LM1 wideband a-f meter does not lie.


Thanks for the real world feedback Tom. Those LM-1's are awesome and i'm sure a very handy tuning tool. I need to get one at some point....much easier than reading plugs.

Do you remember off hand which side was jetted richer on that center carb ?



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

62 Max

Quote from: maxwellwedge on April 07, 2009, 08:37:09 PM
I have got and have had many Six-Packs and have never used any tapes or sealers and never had a leak at the lines. I am blessed.  :angel:

You are not blessed,you just used the correct (probably original) parts and did it the right way. ;D

b5blue

I was wondering the same as Firefighter, what kind of set-up is it on..now I wish I had taken a peek inside my newly Holley rebuilt center carb. to see the power valve and jetting.Also on the stainless topic, I was sent a stainless ground clip (from fuel line to sender) after ordering a regular one (free upgrade, vendor out of others) and months later when I got around to using it (after cleaning the tank and fuel lines from sitting unused for 6 years) would not hold on tightly to the lines. It seemed to me the stainless will not hold a "spring effect" you go to clip it on and the tangs spread but then it's too loose. I ended up throwing it out and made my own. Now that I'm saying it, I got to order another! There was such a rush to get this car on the road I did what I had to in the last 2 days before my son took the old beater to USF. :2thumbs:

b5blue

IT LIVES!! Ron's Firecore wires make a HUGE difference! No more vacuum leaks! Blocking the manifold heat has pretty much stopped the reaction time for the chokes thermal spring tho. I ran it for 15-20 min. and temp was at 180 but it didn't budge. Can someone answer 2 questions for me #1 To adjust float bowl level up do I turn the nut clockwise or counter clockwise? (mine read low and I went almost a full turn both ways and didn't see fuel) #2 The distributor vacuum pod is adjustable with a small Allen wrench, again clockwise advances or retards (increase/decrease action) Thanks! 

62 Max

Quote from: b5blue on April 09, 2009, 04:56:29 PM
IT LIVES!! Ron's Firecore wires make a HUGE difference! No more vacuum leaks! Blocking the manifold heat has pretty much stopped the reaction time for the chokes thermal spring tho. I ran it for 15-20 min. and temp was at 180 but it didn't budge. Can someone answer 2 questions for me #1 To adjust float bowl level up do I turn the nut clockwise or counter clockwise? (mine read low and I went almost a full turn both ways and didn't see fuel) #2 The distributor vacuum pod is adjustable with a small Allen wrench, again clockwise advances or retards (increase/decrease action) Thanks! 


Counter clockwise will raise the level.

b5blue


firefighter3931

That's fantastics news Neal....now start tuning that badboy and show us some burning rubber !  :D



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

b5blue

Well the adjusters for wet bowl level are down so far that the nuts don't engage! That's why I got no change in fuel level earlier. Now I got to figure out how to get them "up", without damaging anything.(if it isn't too late) Monday I'll go to a nut and bolt shop and see if they can match the size and threads to the "lock screw" and run a screw with a nut on it and jamb it to the adjuster to back it out. They just clear the top of the bowl housing. :eek2: This must have happened fighting the extra fuel pressure from the other pump. 

62 Max

Quote from: b5blue on April 11, 2009, 02:20:34 PM
Well the adjusters for wet bowl level are down so far that the nuts don't engage! That's why I got no change in fuel level earlier. Now I got to figure out how to get them "up", without damaging anything.(if it isn't too late) Monday I'll go to a nut and bolt shop and see if they can match the size and threads to the "lock screw" and run a screw with a nut on it and jamb it to the adjuster to back it out. They just clear the top of the bowl housing. :eek2: This must have happened fighting the extra fuel pressure from the other pump. 

Be careful with what you get,thread is an odd ball 1/4x32.

maxwellwedge

Quote from: b5blue on April 11, 2009, 02:20:34 PM
Well the adjusters for wet bowl level are down so far that the nuts don't engage! That's why I got no change in fuel level earlier. Now I got to figure out how to get them "up", without damaging anything.(if it isn't too late) Monday I'll go to a nut and bolt shop and see if they can match the size and threads to the "lock screw" and run a screw with a nut on it and jamb it to the adjuster to back it out. They just clear the top of the bowl housing. :eek2: This must have happened fighting the extra fuel pressure from the other pump. 


I think if you have to adjust that far either your floats have bent tangs and/or your needle and seat are thewrong type. The only good way to check is take the bowls off and see what is going on with your float height.

maxwellwedge

Quote from: 62 Max on April 08, 2009, 08:26:51 AM
Quote from: maxwellwedge on April 07, 2009, 08:37:09 PM
I have got and have had many Six-Packs and have never used any tapes or sealers and never had a leak at the lines. I am blessed.  :angel:

You are not blessed,you just used the correct (probably original) parts and did it the right way. ;D

Darn - I wanted to be blessed.  ;D

b5blue

1/4 32 Thanks! After running around "testing" screws and nuts I ended up hoping they made such a thing. These had to been down for some time, I remember changing around a bunch of settings just to keep it getting me to work and driving real easy. When my son moved up to Gainesville I just parked it and started saving money. I can tell already weak spark from the NAPA Beldon wires and the gasket leaks on the intake and center carb. were what I was chasing. I remember we set wet level right after start up OK. After that I remember it gulping fuel and just not running right. Finding no vacuum signal at all for the outboards from center carb. had me stumped, I knew that meant they they "dumped" as soon as I cracked open the throttle. I checked wet level after leaning out idle on the outboards and it was way too high,that must have been when I cranked these down too far. :eek2: I may end up pulling the bowls, now is the time to get this right! 

62 Max

Quote from: maxwellwedge on April 11, 2009, 07:09:16 PM
Quote from: 62 Max on April 08, 2009, 08:26:51 AM
Quote from: maxwellwedge on April 07, 2009, 08:37:09 PM
I have got and have had many Six-Packs and have never used any tapes or sealers and never had a leak at the lines. I am blessed.  :angel:

You are not blessed,you just used the correct (probably original) parts and did it the right way. ;D

Darn - I wanted to be blessed.  ;D

You are blessed! ;D

Ghoste

It's like you stole that photo from my fridge before I was married.  Eerie deja vu.

maxwellwedge

And my brand too.....you shouldn't have!  :smilielol:

:cheers:

b5blue

OK floats are up! Getting better and better! Now whats up with me seeing these 179.00 vacuum retard with an electric hookup on them for distributors on eBay? My FSM has got nothing on them. There listed as a "six pack" item? Also I've found a "green vacuum delay" for 440 and Hemi ? Anyone enlighten me? :scratchchin: