low spots after applied primer

[mopar0166]

what should i do about some really noticable low spots after i just got done priming the car, i used the dupont nason system which worked awesome.      can i use a metal puddy/glaze to fill the low spots and then reprime?

[Silver R/T]

use polyester glazing putty w/hardener.

[375instroke]

Evercoat Polyester Glazing Putty.

[mopar0166]

sounds good what the prep for that   sand down with 120 grit apply glaze, sand 120 220 apply new primer then sand whole car with 400 then wet sand 800  for paint?

[Silver R/T]

you can do it like that. Or sand area with 120 apply glaze (don't overdo it) sand down with 180, 320, and then (hopefully it's level to the surrounding area) you want to sand your primer filler (is that what you've applied?) with 400 and apply more primer.
You can dry sand primer with 320, it will cut it pretty fast and you will see your low spots, use guide coat. After sanding whole car with 320-400 apply more coats of primer and wet sand it with 400-600, by now your cars body should be pretty straight.

[375instroke]

Jesus, Silver R/T.  Over 7000 posts.  I don't know how much different new paints are, but I would use the coarsest grit I could get away with.  I saw people use finer stuff, and their cars came out smooth and wavy.  I like Evercoat stuff, and would block filler with 36 grit 17" longboard, filler primer like PPG K200 (K36 now, I think) with 80 grit, then 150 grit, then 400 wet for paint.  This was with solid color acrylic enamel with a color sand and buff, so I don't know if what I did would show up under a metallic.  What do you think?

[green69rt]

I'm going to use this thread for my own situation.  I'm working in my trunk and have some weld imperfections, etc.  The trunk has been coated with POR15.  I was going to coat with POR15 Tie coat which is a high build self etching primer.   There are some low spots that I was going to apply glaze over the primer.  What do you folks recommend??

[69*F5*SE]

I recommend that POR 15 don't get put over clean metal and only over rusty metal prepped with their prep system. POR stands for Paint Over Rust.  It doesn't grab onto clean metal well.  It's kind of old technology these days.

[Silver R/T]

Jesus, Silver R/T.  Over 7000 posts.  I don't know how much different new paints are, but I would use the coarsest grit I could get away with.  I saw people use finer stuff, and their cars came out smooth and wavy.  I like Evercoat stuff, and would block filler with 36 grit 17" longboard, filler primer like PPG K200 (K36 now, I think) with 80 grit, then 150 grit, then 400 wet for paint.  This was with solid color acrylic enamel with a color sand and buff, so I don't know if what I did would show up under a metallic.  What do you think?

Metallic would settle in 400 grit scratches which will makes scratches appear all over the car.

[375instroke]

When I worked at a Mopar restoration shop, I did bodywork and blocking.  The owner did the painting.  The car was final wet sanded with 400, and painted with Centari or Deltron.  I never saw problems with metallic except if it was too cold.  Then the metallic would mottle, but nothing like a pattern that followed sanding scratches.  Is there something about the base/clear systems that requires a finer finish?  Would that affect the need to use finer grits in the bodywork process?  I've found that coarser grits get the car straighter.  Get it straight, then get it smooth.

[hemi-hampton]

Centari is a Single stage, Single stages go on thicker then basecoats & fill in scratches easier in my opinion. Single stage metallics will mottle easily since they gotta be sprayed on wet, you can't spray them on dry like basecoats. I like to use 400 on solid colors & 600 on metallics. I like to start off blocking initial primered body work with around 80,120,or 150 myself. Yes you'll go thru but I allready know I'll be repriming & re blocking again so who cares. Some don't want to go thru or have to reprime because they call that a wast of time & material. That's all good if your doing a new car & mass production. LEON.