Repair or replace

[mAdMoPaR]

Hello all, Long time reader first time post. Need a little advice on fixin the rear window channel on my 68 charger (see pics) Should I replace with new sheet metal? or does it look like i might be repairable? Gonna have the trunk floor replaced so I figured it might be easier to replace the deck panel at least with the trunk floor removed. Not sure how easy the sail panels are to replace though, not really a bodywork type.

[69bronzeT5]

It looks repairable but if you get the car sand/media blasted, it could open up a whole new can of worms and expose more non-visable rust.

[mAdMoPaR]

Thats kinda of what I was thinking. Although I dont think I'm gonna have it blasted ...at least not yet I'm at the stage where I'm kinda just collecting sheet metal pieces I think I gonna need and have it all welded at the same time. So far the trunk and the window channel seem to be the problems, the rest of the car is pretty solid.

[HollyWoodCharger]

I think I'd be looking into the Sail Panel patch parts and a dutchman panel, and the lower back window frame, it may come with the dutchman panel depending on who makes it...

by the time you cut out the area or grind it out, it will without a doubt be larger than it looks now in these pics.

but this repair is not the end of the world, it'll take some patience to fix properly...

[b5blue]

I have the same issues with my car but my trunk channels are shot also. I have bought L/R sail panel pieces and the piece from the window to the trunk but now AMD makes one that is better with the trunk channel built in and they make the channels to go with it. So I'll be buying them too! It's better to buy the whole section then try to weld little patches everywhere or use filler. 

[Silver R/T]

just get a spot blaster and blast it yourself. Afterwards you can make patches and fix it yourself

[TylerCharger69]

I have that problem too.  I'm going to use a cut-off wheel to remove the bad  and then I'm going to use cut strips from 18 gauge steel wall studs for the repair....cut to size with the cutoff wheel as well...very inexpensive and really easy to get those bends...one could acquire these from the scrap pile at any commercial construction site.....Once it's fitted and tacked into place....you'd never know the difference!!!

[mAdMoPaR]

Well here the pics of the replacement panels that I have found so far. From what I can see, they look like they are all I need to fix this. Have thought of cutting and patching like SilverRT and TC69 mentioned after I glanced through a book called Project Charger which I sure some of you might be familiar with. They had a similar problem but used some kind of mesh screen and filler (lead?). I will try to clean it up a bit more this weekend and see how bad it really is. BTW what the heck is a Dutchman panel?

[HollyWoodCharger]

Well here the pics of the replacement panels that I have found so far. From what I can see, they look like they are all I need to fix this. Have thought of cutting and patching like SilverRT and TC69 mentioned after I glanced through a book called Project Charger which I sure some of you might be familiar with. They had a similar problem but used some kind of mesh screen and filler (lead?). I will try to clean it up a bit more this weekend and see how bad it really is. BTW what the heck is a Dutchman panel?

The bottom photo in your last post is sometimes refered to as the Dutchman panel..

[b5blue]

That's exactly what I have also. The AMD filler panel forms the inside edge of the channel and seams like factory leading to the trunk side channels I need also.

[Joshua]

For the price of those panels, you could buy a small sheet metal brake, a shrinker and make your own panels....then you'd have the tools to make wheel lips and other pieces for various projects.

[Mike DC]

   
1.  Don't be afraid to try to fabricate your own stuff from scratch.  Of course don't try to make a whole new fender or anything, but you'd be surprised how large of a patch piece you might make without ending up worse off than buying a repro.  It's not that your work will be that good, it's that the repros are usually that bad.  

   
2.  Just because they sell you an entire panel, that doesn't mean you have to us it all.  Don't feel like it's always a waste of money if you spend $400 on a patch panel and then cut off & throw away 80% of it.  Even the best reproduction parts are generally worse quality than the original stuff.  And even if you're dealing with NOS grade replacement parts, the factory's spot welding & stuff is generally better left in place than redone.  If the old metal is straight & solid, then keep it.  At worst you can re-replace the whole panel at some point in the future.  

[mAdMoPaR]

Didn't get a chance work it on this weekend after all. But I'll try again next weekend. What do you guys recommend for cleaning this up ? All I have is a driil with various wire brushes and a  4 1/2 electric da sander. Also have a puny craftsman compressor (3gal I think). Also figured this is a good a time as any to post a pic of my baby in her current state 

[b5blue]

Good start, nice deck and shade area. Watch out for the little wire wheel pieces...they hurt...

[lexxman]

I have the same problem with my rear window area(just not as bad).I will be repairing it myself,and I think you you could do the same.It take a little more time,but you can save  some money.

[The70RT]

Like most said. Cut out what is bad and don't wast money on those parts....I don't think it warrants it.

[mAdMoPaR]

Thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it  I've  been a  member of another mopar forum for years now and can never really get clear answer ( or only after constant bickering between members) Cool bunch of guys there too but man do they like to whine!  May have to set this to the side for now as I started taking out the dash last night and will continue this weekend.

[OneofNoneRT]

I am far from done but I have learned a few things I will share...
1 Bag and Tag everything.. Usable or not you may need it for reference..
2. Pics.. alot!  pics are worth a million words.. can save you headache later..
3. RUST, Is Thou Enemy! There is 10 times more there than you realize...
4. Air compressor, BIG Holding tank, The larger the better, You will be blasting, even if spot blasting you will wipeout a small tank Quickly, and wasting valuable time and effort. Also a good DA or even a die grinder will outpace most residential compressors..
5. Sand blast Media gets everywhere! Avoid it if possible, But it is a neccessary evil..
6. sweep the floor before starting to work, Then after , any brackets, bolts, clips.clamps found that are not identified can go in with the days project. try to figure out where it goes now , not 3 years from now.

[Mike DC]

Good advice there.  Man, #6 is so damn true.



If you really are in the market for an air compressor then PLEASE, get an older design oil-filled one with a belt driven motor.  IMHO the modern "oil free" compressors are shit regardless of the brand or model.   

And a compressor motor's CFM flow rating is much more important than the highest possible tank pressure it can achieve. 

 

[Belgium R/T -68]

Had the same problem at the rear window,  used small selfmade pieces to weld in. the only sheetmetal I bought was the front floor.
And yes, like stated before: lots of pics and save EVERYTHING.

Per

[lexxman]

Hey,about that #6 so true,I got my car in boxes.Man do I wish I had taken it apart.Good luck and keep us updated.

[Charger440RDN]

What did you decide to do to repair the window frame? Any updates?

[mAdMoPaR]

Haven't decided yet. Kinda set it aside for now and started working on removing the dash/windshield. Although I am leaning a bit toward repairing the damaged parts instead of replacing it with new panels.

[elacruze]

My rear was good on the bottom, but bad under the vinyl roof. Here's pics of the repair.
Too easy. Two pieces of sheetmetal, tin snips, bend by hand, weld in, grind, finish, paint.
YMMV.

[mAdMoPaR]

^^^

That's probably the route I will be taking. It was mentioned in some earlier post. What gauge sheet metal did you use? What type of welder did you use? (MIG,flux,etc.) I"ve been kinda researching a few mig/flux combo welders at Sears that are under 300 bucks. Any suggestions? I haven't welded anything since high school and even then I really just screwed around melting and burning stuff 
Should of paid more attention!