Headlight Doors Not Opening

[CornDogsCharger]

I installed all new hoses, the accuators were rebuilt by Wilson, and the headlight switch where the hoses plug in was serviced by Performance Car Graphics.  The car has a mild cam but still pulls enough vacuum.  The first thing I thought was... leaky canister.  I bypassed the canister and still nothing.  I listened for a leak at the switch but it checked out fine too.  When you turn the headlights on, nothing happens.... but if you help them up a little then they will slowly open.  Does anyone have an idea what the problem might be?  Could I possibly have the hoses routed wrong?  Does anyone have a diagram for the hoses?  Thanks

Justin
"CornDog"

[nascarxx29]

Sounds familar

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,58345.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,44997.20.html

[70Sbird]

Justin,
Maybe oversimplifying here but disconnect the vacuum hose connectors at the core support and hook up a vacuum gauge (if you have two, put one on each) with the car running and the headlights off, you should have manifold vacuum at one of the hoses, and none on the other. Turn on the headlights and you should now have vacuum at the other line and no vacuum where you had it before.
If this happens you are fine from the core support back. I had Wilson's rebuild my actuators and trust his craftsmanship, so I'm going to assume that the actuators are good. Take two lengths of loose vacuum hose and connect them to the Drivers side actuator (yes the front connection is a bitch). connect these two hoses to the vacuum lines at the core support and bypass the harness that connects to the other headlight. start the car and turn the headlights on, the headlight door should either open or close depending on how you have them connected (possibly reversed).
Repeat this procedure for the other actuator. It should go up and down now as well.
If the vacuum is present at the connections by the core support, and the actuators work independently with the harness bypassed, there is a connection issue or a big vacuum leak!
Hopefully this helps you out.
I went through this drill for over a year chasing a bad repro actuator that I trusted, but did not test.

[3--Daytona]

   You might check the adjustment of the flat coil spring on the side of the box..,,,,,,,3-daytona

[pettybird]

   You might check the adjustment of the flat coil spring on the side of the box..,,,,,,,3-daytona

like, if you disconnect the vacuum completely, do the headlights come up?  do you have the springs on the sides at all?  take a vacuum pump to each actuator and see if one's leaking really badly.

start at the actuators and work backwards.

[62 Max]

If they don 't open with the vacuum disconnected,the problems is with the springs.

[CornDogsCharger]

After doing a process of elemanation it keeps pointing to the vacuum switch on the back of the headlight switch.   When I bypass the switch, they open fine.  I currently do not have the springs properly installed (with tension).  I have heard of many people doing away with the springs all together.  Performance Car Graphics serviced two switches for us and neither one opperates properly.  Year One has a new switch on order for us so hopefully that will fix the problem.  Thanks for the help

Justin
"CornDog"

[nascarxx29]

A old newsletter tech tip for the vacuum switch ,Was silicone grease

[moparstuart]

After doing a process of elemanation it keeps pointing to the vacuum switch on the back of the headlight switch.   When I bypass the switch, they open fine.  I currently do not have the springs properly installed (with tension).  I have heard of many people doing away with the springs all together.  Performance Car Graphics serviced two switches for us and neither one opperates properly.  Year One has a new switch on order for us so hopefully that will fix the problem.  Thanks for the help

Justin
"CornDog"

dave rebuilt my switch and it works great

[danmc77]

GUys, what spring are you referring too?  I have a 68, and no springs anywhere associated with the headlight door system.  Can you guys elaborate?

Edit:  just realized this thread is in the "Aero Cars" section - nevermind.

[CornDogsCharger]

Update:  Well guys, everything is working great now.  I have heard of many guys removing the spring and everything still works like it should.  Well, not in this case.  I installed the springs and wound them so they are functional.  That fixed everything.  Here's the only thing I can think of as to why they would not work without the springs.  Everyone that I have talked to that removed thier springs still had a factory cam.  This particular car has a mild cam.  My only guess would be.... a factory makes enough vacuum to open the headlights even without the assistance of the springs.  With a mild cam, you would think it makes plenty of vacuum to opperate everythihng as it should, but not quite enough to open the headlight doors.  I even made a cool little jig to pre-load the springs to make installation a breeze.  No more chewed up fingers or scratched paint.  I'll have to post some pictures of the jig when I get a minute.

Justin
"CornDog"

[Aero426]

So if there is not enough vacuum to open the doors, how are they managing to close against the tension of the springs?

[maxwellwedge]

1) Opening is easy with the spring - are they closing?
2) I would love to see the jig you made - I have used everything from coat hangers to small Aztec worship dolls dangling from the hood catch 

[CornDogsCharger]

They close fine too.  I'm not really sure that the vacuum makes that much difference.  That's why I was so stumped.  It clearly pulls enough vacuum to close the doors but it was having the hardest time when it came to opening them (with no springs).  I installed all new rubber lines, Wilson rebuilt the accuators, Dave Patik serviced the H/L switch, and I even pressure tested the vacuum canister and then bypassed it to make sure that it wasn't that.  As soon as I installed the springs, I thought to myself "there is no way this thing will pull enough to put EVEN MORE pressure on the already loaded springs, and close the doors", but sure enough..... they closed. 

I'll have to load up the pictures of my homemade jig and post them here.

Justin
"CornDog"

[62 Max]

The springs help with opening but their main purpose is to keep the headlight boors from bouncing when they're in the open position.It's in the fleet engineering manual if you have a copy.

[A383Wing]

The springs help with opening but their main purpose is to keep the headlight boors from bouncing when they're in the open position.It's in the fleet engineering manual if you have a copy.

I thought the springs were for keeping the headlights up when vacuum was lost so the headlights would light the road?

[Dave Kanofsky]

How well do the power brakes work?

[CornDogsCharger]

Power brakes work like a charm.... once the original booster was rebuilt with a new diaphram.

Justin
"CornDog"