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Meet Valerie - Supercharged Riot's car - Update 12/13/2012

Started by Supercharged Riot, September 26, 2009, 12:03:09 AM

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moparstuart

Quote from: Troy on October 31, 2012, 03:18:36 PM
Quote from: DrHemi on October 29, 2012, 11:53:21 PM
Enjoying reading this as I'm about to do the same thing to my engine. One question though. You said the car was originally a 6 cylinder with a 3 on the tree. I thought the 6 wasn't available until 1969? Not trying to be an ass or anything just curious.
You would be incorrect. They didn't make many but they were available in 68.

Troy

there was a light pinkish  6cyl 68 that sat rusting away  on my neighborhood block when i was a kid 
GO SELL CRAZY SOMEWHERE ELSE WE ARE ALL STOCKED UP HERE

DrHemi

1938 Packard 120
1957 Studebaker Silver Hawk
1963 Ford Fairlane 500
1964 Ford Fairlane 500 (RIP due to code enforcement)
1970 Dodge Charger 500
1972 MG Midget
1987 Maserati BiTurbo Si


Supercharged Riot

Hey whats up everybody?

More progress this week
and running out of time this semester.

Anyway, Im not doing too bad on progress, here.
Just a lot of work to do on a set of heads that had a lot of usage out of them.

This week was all about seat work.
Apparently it looks like the last "rebuilder" didnt care to make the heads compatible with the unleaded gas we use nowadays.

Well Im here to fix that

First I had to finish the guide work by using a ball broach to correctly size my guides





After getting precise measurements of the outside seat diameter...
Also measure the depth of the seat, so that you will know how deep to make your cut.



I am ready to prep myself to cut the intake and exhaust seats by choosing the correct cutting bits compatible for my new seats


Back on the drill machine again.
This time Im cutting away metal for new seats...so mount em up!


Lets get the proper seat grinding pilot (3/8 - .002   aka .373")
The alignment tool thingy
and the cutting arbor (2.250" for the intake & 1.875" for the exhaust)

Once mounted on the drill
Place the correct sized pilot in the guide of the seat that will be cut.
Place the alignment tool (yeah I forgot the technical name) on the pilot and
Place the cutting arbor over the alighnment tool
and start cutting away








I dont have pics for the step on press fitting in the seats because I was in a time crunch but....
I got some dry ice in a back and threw in my seats before pressing them in.
This will slightly shrink the seats making the pressing of the seats into the cylinder head much more easier

Placed cylinder head on press machine

Throw seats in back of dry ice and leave in freezer for about 10-15 min
line it up so that the seat surface is level

After taking the seat of the the bag of dry ice
place on top of drilled seat

use press machine to press new seats it and.......presto! installed!

Yes, I only had time to install the exhaust seats, but I will finish next week for sure and move on the the next major task
Here's a bunch of pics of the seat install so you know what hardened seats look like.











You can see that there is excess cast iron surface hanging over the seat inside the exhaust runners
I will be grinding away (I guess porting) so that there will be proper air flow circulation.










JB400

Glad to hear your coming along on it :2thumbs: Are you going to have it put together by spring break so you can spend it putting the motor back in the car?

Supercharged Riot

Thats what Im hoping for, but since this is the first time for me, it might take longer than planned.

Im in the middle of considering a different block and just paying a machine shop to do the machine work.
Not sure yet.
I will definitely make use of these cylinder heads though as they are compatible with other RB blocks

decisions decisions  :scratchchin:

Supercharged Riot

More Stuff. Porting and Polishing
Cutting Valve Seats
Drilling new holes for new threads for my replacement exhaust studs



















































Anyone bother to know how much a bare 906 cylinder head weighs?  About 43lbs or so



















Supercharged Riot

It's Thread repair time!

Lets take a look at the studs that were installed by the last genius (top row)

Most studs had shortened 3/8-16 threads which seemed compatible with the headers installed earlier
Theres one stock stud on the very right hahahaha
.....and the ones I was really worried about were the oversized studs 7/16-14 (2nd & 3rd to the last on top right)



The first drill is used to completely wipe out the old threads


The counterbore tool in the Timesert kit makes an extra wide cut on top to make the insert sit flush with the surface



I went ahead and repair all of my exhaust threads except for one that had already been helicoiled.


I was a little worried about these stud hole as they were oversized.
You can see that the drill did not completely cut the entire surface leaving some untouched parts of the previous 7/16-14 threads
I did the math and the special tap should cut new threads at a diameter of about 0.030 bigger which will hopefully make some useful new teeth (theads)


The "TIME-SERT Tap Guide 3/8-16 Part # 33816"
Works great with the "TIME-SERT 3/8-16 SAE Thread Repair Kit # 0381"
(I had to buy them each separately)
The guide helps keep your special tap straight and it works better than I thought




Half way though and the guide is doing an excellent job


The new tap is starting to thread its way into the stud hole


I used a Sharpy marker on the tap to help me know how far I can go before I start touching the back wall of the intake runners.
I wouldnt want to go to far an exert pressure and risk cracking my heads


All done with the special tap.
Here is my new thread that will hold the new 3/8-16 thread insert


Now...here are the 2 oversized holes Im really worried about.
Will get good enough threads?



All done
Not soo bad. But this is not a good picture


It actually gave me enough teeth to install my new inserts
Lets take a look at this new thread in a different angle



The Time-sert repair kit is the best and did an excellent job.
Yes even on the oversized holes
Take a look at this new thread at different angles so you know the extent of the repair
You can see that the untouched spots are the rusted areas of the thread
But this turned out better than I expected and I can definitely work with this result



Im test fitting the insert with the replacement stud to see how it will look


The insert sits flush!
Gasket sealing will be no problem
I will just have to install the threaded insert with a permanent Loctite or Permatex Red






Finn

1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L


Supercharged Riot

Hey guys. Yeah I know I havent posted in a while.

I got a lot of stuff to say that will explain why I havent been posting lately.
I still poke my head around though

I got bad news actually. (about my project).
I skipped a very VERY important step that I should have performed early on when I started working on my cylinder heads.
I should have magnufluxed the heads.
My passenger side head is cracked  :brickwall:

Had I caught this ahead of time, I'd be done with it by now (the heads at least).
Ill show pictures later, but I have been soo pissed off about myself that I kinda left the project where it was at.

I basically dont have much to report since my last update.
Oh im still going to finish the job.

I love the idea of aluminum cylinder heads, but...
Call me crazy, but I still want to build cast iron heads and unlock the power potential of 906 heads.
Im hunting for another set of 906 heads right now.


Anyway, here are my top reasons why I havent been posting or doing anything lately with my engine work:
1) I'm currently studying for the CPA exam  :2thumbs:
2) I just bought a brand new truck  :yesnod: and now it's taking up a nice chunk of my income.
3) My cylinder head is CRACKED!!!  :brickwall: I'm looking for a replacement


Trust me, when I get the ball rolling again. I'll be sure to post progress.

greenpigs

Should be a fair amount of 906 heads floating around that have had port work done, as a bunch of people did go the aluminum route. Best to look for a pair that have been checked for "flow" on a bench so you know if they are ideal for your combo.
BIG shiny ports do not mean it is right for your combo.
1969 Charger RT


Living Chevy free

Plum Crazy 68

Awesome motor work!  I've always had to rely on shops to do this kind of work.

Hope next semester goes into putting disc brakes on it.  Keep us posted.

Supercharged Riot

UPdates of course.

Im still gunna work on it, but I need to get some tools for the time being
Im looking for an engine hoist right now

Im also studying at the same time also which means my progress will be a lot slower this year.

greenpigs

Quote from: Supercharged Riot on May 25, 2013, 06:33:03 PM
UPdates of course.

Im still gunna work on it, but I need to get some tools for the time being
Im looking for an engine hoist right now

Im also studying at the same time also which means my progress will be a lot slower this year.


Been working on mine 23 years so your greased lightning in comparison.
1969 Charger RT


Living Chevy free

mauve66

Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment

cdr

what are you gonna do about your valve guides cut down so far ?  no place for valve stem seals.???
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

greenpigs

Quote from: cdr on May 30, 2013, 07:13:45 PM
what are you gonna do about your valve guides cut down so far ?  no place for valve stem seals.???

He posted one of the heads is cracked so now he is looking for replacements.
1969 Charger RT


Living Chevy free


fy469rtse

I'm glad you said that Charlie ,
I was thinking that the shop teacher should have pointed that out to him ,
I hope he sees this and reads up on it,
He could have cut them down slightly and reduced the dia, removing the obvious debri that led to crank scratches
He could use positive lock seals like the alloys have , forgotten the name of them,
I first though he was going to leave the bronze guides protruding up to use , groove for seals to lock to
So two reasons for a new set,
Lucky we discard them , there every where now  :lol: