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Defective Ignition Coil?

Started by JRGBoss, May 16, 2011, 11:07:55 PM

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JRGBoss

Recently the alternator, regulator and solenoid, coil was replaced on the 68 RT. Starts right up when cold but when you drive it for a while and turn it off it will not start. The ignition coil feels hot to the touch, once things start to cool down the car will once again start right up. Could the ignition coil be defective?
1968 Dodge Charger RT - 2nd Owner

FLG

Could be a few things,

What happens when you try to start it? Does it crank? Hows your timing?

Could be your starter solenoid getting heat soaked, could be you have your timing a bit too advanced and theres simply not enough grunt to get it turned over hot. Just need a few more pieces of info  :2thumbs:

JRGBoss

Quote from: FLG on May 17, 2011, 02:31:41 AM
Could be a few things,

What happens when you try to start it? Does it crank? Hows your timing?

Could be your starter solenoid getting heat soaked, could be you have your timing a bit too advanced and theres simply not enough grunt to get it turned over hot. Just need a few more pieces of info  :2thumbs:

It cranks fine, just wont start until things cool down a bit.
1968 Dodge Charger RT - 2nd Owner

nascarxx29

Just curious is your ballast resistor bypassed and what brand coil you using
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

JRGBoss

Supposedly what was causing it was too wide a gap on the points. Not sure it was related but the alternator was not charging property so it was replaced, again.
1968 Dodge Charger RT - 2nd Owner

nascarxx29

Id change my points to pertronix and use their coil which eliminates the ballast  .As points distributors get shaft play and cause erratic timing  :Twocents:
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

JRGBoss

Quote from: nascarxx29 on May 19, 2011, 10:55:50 PM
Id change my points to pertronix and use their coil which eliminates the ballast  .As points distributors get shaft play and cause erratic timing  :Twocents:

I think you are right. I am in the process of rebuilding my B2 motor and installing the petronix in the distributor. Thereby eliminating the dual points.
1968 Dodge Charger RT - 2nd Owner

Topher

The Pertronix are great, I've had it in my car for 7 years now. The instructions state to leave the ballast in line. Will it fry the coil if the ballast is by-passed?
Topher

67 Charger 383-4spd "the Dawg"

www.headlightmotorman.com

nascarxx29

In think if you use petronix coil you can hardwire the ballast from the back for stock looks
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

Cooter

Quote from: Topher on May 20, 2011, 09:58:41 AM
The Pertronix are great, I've had it in my car for 7 years now. The instructions state to leave the ballast in line. Will it fry the coil if the ballast is by-passed?
Depends on the type of coil you are using...There's ones with an internal "Built in" resistor and regualr coils without...The STOCK coil needs the resistor..

However, you upgrade to say an MSD unit, most times, they do not need the resistor...(Full electronic ignition, and not MSD on point type ignition)
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

Topher

I used the Pertronix Blaster coil. I made a jumper yesterday and drove the car for 20 miles or so. I did notice a difference. It enhanced a top end stutter/bog thing I'm chasing.
Topher

67 Charger 383-4spd "the Dawg"

www.headlightmotorman.com