Daytona Project - Blue One - update

[Daytona Guy]

Breaklines in - stainless is so nice.

Also, does anyone know why the HEMI engine harness is way more in cost.



Dane

[A383Wing]

guess they figure if you can afford a Hemi, you can afford to pay more for parts to make it run

Bryan

[Bob T]

Great build and thread Dane, man thats a sharp looking car, testament to your skills   

[Daytona Guy]

Unless someone tells be different, I'm ording a regular 440 engine harness. $95.00

[moparstuart]

Unless someone tells be different, I'm ording a regular 440 engine harness. $95.00

they are different the starter wiring set up is totally different on a hemi

[Charger-Bodie]

You will need the hemi harnesses. Do you have a positive cable yet? I have an extra one that I can give you a deal on. Are you going auto or manual transmission?

[Daytona Guy]

Sorry for my ignorance, but why is it different? If I wire it up like my 440 and it works who cares, right? wrong? Does the electrical know there are HEMI heads on this block??? Someone please explain.

Dane

[Bob T]

The Hemi harness will have the extra wiring shown as the dotted line just below the battery ( Hemi Head Only )  I believe

[Bob T]

.Hey did you pull it - That was interesting. I did not mean to moch it at all - that is helpful for someone to read that know what they are looking at.

Yeah, the red lines on 2nd version made it exceed the 200kb barrier so it would'nt load, then I had to go do domestic duties 

[Daytona Guy]

Can someone tell me why? With the MSD system I am using - and the starter is just using a simple relay from the ignition. The only thing I can think of would be something to do with the distributer. But that makes no sense either. A HEMI is not from another planet. Bigger beefier wires - bigger gauge? I just need a logical reason, and not just that it is.

That schematic is like reading Japanizes Is that an egg roll I see   Can someone point out the differences from that?

Hey did you pull it - That was interesting. I did not mean to moch it at all - that is helpful for someone to read that know what they are looking at.
 

Dane

[Daytona Guy]

You will need the hemi harnesses. Do you have a positive cable yet? I have an extra one that I can give you a deal on. Are you going auto or manual transmission?

Yes, using an auto - what do you want for the positive cable? Is that the one with the smaller red wire that runs with it down to the starter that is molded together at the end? Is this any different than a 440 ?

Dane

[Daytona Guy]

I read this in Popular Hot Rodding + they had a HD pic of the engine I'm getting - had to post it



Indy Cylinder Head Hemi

Any collection of sentences purporting to be a crate engine buyer's guide would be remiss without a Gen II Chrysler Hemi. Arguably the gold standard of horsepower since the '60s, old-school Hemis have been stomping their Detroit rivals for decades, and the Indy Cylinder Head 572 certainly lives up to the Hemi's fabled reputation. Packing 572 cubes and 770 hp, this pump-gas Elephant has all the right stuff, including a World Products block, forged rotating assembly, Indy S/R aluminum heads, and Indy dual-quad intake manifold. The Hemi's manly 272/280-at-.050 solid-roller cam is reason enough to buy this motor, and we'd argue that its prodigious displacement could easily tame another 20 degrees of duration. The Indy 572 comes with a Milodon oil pan, dual Edelbrock 750-cfm carbs, MSD billet distributor, and plugs and wires.




Read more: http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/1201phr_15_hottest_crate_motors/viewall.html#ixzz28sJneP5Y

[Brutalowner]

Isn't the difference between the starter and it's wiring?

[daytonalo]

Dane , I'm with you about the harness , it's not rocket science !! So what if you have to add another wire or modify .

Could you please post some pics of your nose mounting system and really love your work ! Also what does an engine like that list for ?

Larry

[Charger-Bodie]

You could get the 440 one to work. No doubt. But, th Hemi one is longer and just plain differant. I for one do not like to creat any hassle with these cars . They will creat enuf on there own......

PS Dane. The batter cable I have is the correct style repop, but its for a 4 speed so it wont work without mods, so again Id just get the right one.

[Daytona Guy]

What do you guys think of this. I will paint it black so it doesn't jump out - but for 350.00 with fans?

Dane

[BigBlockSam]

depends on how many cfm the fans move. on the be cool website they have a calculator . that way you can figure out what size fans you need . it was very helpful when i built my hotrod 

[moparstuart]

What do you guys think of this. I will paint it black so it doesn't jump out - but for 350.00 with fans?

Dane

I have one in my car  ,  and i sell then  . THe Raditors  cool good  but fit you have to massage everything  .  

[hemigeno]

Besides the fact that every vendor who sells a Hemi-only part sees you coming a mile away  , the Hemi engine harness needs to be longer if you're going to route the wiring in its original location (a few inches below the spark plug wires on the passenger's side valve cover).  You'd have to route a B/RB harness across the top valve cover nuts/studs to make the shorter length work - but that's more a matter of personal preference.

Another reason it costs more is the additional connector over the passenger's side valve cover below plug #6.  The only purpose for that (which I can see anyway) is to be able to disconnect it and keep the engine harness out of the way when pulling the valve cover for rocker lash adjustment.  That awesome-looking 572 is a solid-tappet cam, so using the "right" harness will make that task marginally easier.  Since I think you're running power brakes, it's not going to be much fun to set the valve lash anyway, so keeping a B/RB harness out of the way is (comparatively-speaking) a minor inconvenience.

[Daytona Guy]

Besides the fact that every vendor who sells a Hemi-only part sees you coming a mile away   , the Hemi engine harness needs to be longer if you're going to route the wiring in its original location (a few inches below the spark plug wires on the passenger's side valve cover).  You'd have to route a B/RB harness across the top valve cover nuts/studs to make the shorter length work - but that's more a matter of personal preference.

Another reason it costs more is the additional connector over the passenger's side valve cover below plug #6.  The only purpose for that (which I can see anyway) is to be able to disconnect it and keep the engine harness out of the way when pulling the valve cover for rocker lash adjustment.  That awesome-looking 572 is a solid-tappet cam, so using the "right" harness will make that task marginally easier.  Since I think you're running power brakes, it's not going to be much fun to set the valve lash anyway, so keeping a B/RB harness out of the way is (comparatively-speaking) a minor inconvenience.

Good to hear from you Hemigeno - you are always so helpful and practical. I am thinking of running the wiring where the 440 put it - along the intake and valve cover ridge. I would like to keep the VC clean looking.

I am getting that engine with a hydrologic rollers and rocker set up, stock HEMI oil pan and stock wrinkle paint VC's - so hopefully will be a better user friendly engine. I know I'm getting less HP, but really, that is OK This will look mostly stock because I like the contrasting simple look. Too much color and texture contrasts makes for a too busy engine bay. I like things clean and simple. HEMI orange engine (including intake) and wrinkle paint valve covers, with the wreck tangle HEMI orange air cleaner, custom 572 HEMI wording aloft, I think will give this a clean beefy look. I'm going to be making a custom fuel line - to get the plumbing out of the way from in front of the air cleaner. The fuel line with follow more of a 440 path and will split for the 2x4.  

Dane

[hemigeno]

Good to hear from you Hemigeno - you are always so helpful and practical. I am thinking of running the wiring where the 440 put it - along the intake and valve cover ridge. I would like to keep the VC clean looking.

I am getting that engine with a hydrologic rollers and rocker set up, stock HEMI oil pan and stock wrinkle paint VC's - so hopefully will be a better user friendly engine. I know I'm getting less HP, but really, that is OK This will look mostly stock because I like the contrasting simple look. Too much color and texture contrasts makes for a too busy engine bay. I like things clean and simple. HEMI orange engine (including intake) and wrinkle paint valve covers, with the wreck tangle HEMI orange air cleaner, custom 572 HEMI wording aloft, I think will give this a clean beefy look. I'm going to be making a custom fuel line - to get the plumbing out of the way from in front of the air cleaner. The fuel line with follow more of a 440 path and will split for the 2x4.  

Dane

Sounds like a plan!  Going with hydraulic roller tappets is not a bad thing at all - you can increase the ramp speeds of the lobe to make up a bit for the tappet difference.  That's what we did with the 440 in my car now.  You'll be hamstrung as much by using stock manifolds (if that's what you do) as any other single factor in your engine build, but there's still some really decent power to be made with that combo.  There's still no replacement for displacement.

[1970Moparmann]

Very nice build Dane!

[NYCMille]

Amazing Dane - can't wait to see this beast!

[Daytona Guy]

Thanks everyone for the encouragement - And a shout out to Mark (Kent WA)  for helping me on my chrome window trim. A very generous guy.  (I modified this - it was Mark - not Mike - sorry)

Need some help: Looking for and engine bay front headlight harness, but do not want to buy a new one because I cut it all up for the modifications I do for the Daytona (my style). All I need is a ratty one that maybe someone wants to chuck - as long as it is not all melted at the bulk head.

Unrelated pic, but I painted the drip rail molding bracket satin black instead of stainless - this way it lets the chrome drip rail stand-alone - seems more balanced aesthetically.

Also, on the drawing board are custom door panels. 1500.00 for door pads and everything is crazy. They will incorporate the look of the outer door scoops and be raised more like the newer cars. I should not post this because it is sooooo much of a rough draft - but it give the idea I am looking for.






Dane

[Daytona Guy]

Anyone know drive shaft legnth B body 727 to 8.75 from center to center?

Dane