Adjusting solid lifters

[steves66]

More questions for the pros! I am getting ready to install my eheads heads on my 493 stroker build and need some freshening up on my lifter adjustments. I have a solid cam with the 1.6 Harland Sharp roller rockers on. This is my first build with a solid set up. What is the best technique to adjusting solid lifters and correct lash?

[firefighter3931]

Steve, i like to use the 90* rotation method. Basicly, you bring the motor up to TDC on the compression stroke and start there. Rotate the engine 90* and adjust 2 valves....then 90* and 2 more....keep going until they're all done. I'll post the MP lashing chart for you to use...download the chart and print it off for future reference. 

(1) The lash spec will be on the cam card....should be .018 for your cam but check it to be sure. Aluminum heads grow (expand) with heat so you'll want to recheck it when the engine is hot at a later time.

(2) If you're using a double valvespring then pull out the inner springs to reduce pressure during the cam breakin...this will prevent a lobe failure. This is very important...too much pressure will hurt the cam.

(3) After you've got everything mocked up, rotate the engine over by hand with the breaker bar. Have a look at the lifters and make sure that they're spinning in their respective bores with the lash set to spec. This is also very important....if the lifters don't spin (rotate) the cam will wipe. Make sure to re-coat the lifter faces with moly lube before firing the engine.

(4) For breakin lube, use Shell Rotella 15/40 diesel oil and a can of GM EOS (engine oil supplement) and drain it off as soon as the engine is broken in. Replace with fresh oil and filter. You want to get rid of all the moly lube and any bearing material that might be in the crankcase after the breakin. Valvoline VR-1 20-50 racing oil is a good choice for oil once you're ready to start driving the beast.

Ron

[steves66]

Thanks Ron! I bet you feel like your building this motor, don't you!?!?

[MyMopar]

Wow that is pretty informative.  I haven't thoguht about a solid lifter cam and after seeing the work involved, not adjusting but removing the inner spring for break in purposes, can you perhaps explain the benefit of solid over hydralic.  Are the cam profiles more aggresive or is valve timing more stable and predictable?

[Ghoste]

Both of those plus you can rev higher.

[firefighter3931]

Thanks Ron! I bet you feel like your building this motor, don't you!?!?

Steve,

Yep, sure feels that way, lol ! I wanna see some video of this beast when it hits the dyno.   

Ron

[steves66]

Steve,

Yep, sure feels that way, lol ! I wanna see some video of this beast when it hits the dyno.   

Ron

I'm getting close my friend! The light is getting a little brighter at the end of the tunnel. Hopefully I will have some videos soon.

[Runner]

i like to do them as per comp,  for no other reason than i like to do one side at a time and i like to go straight back so i know i didnt miss any.

[Ghoste]

I used to do them the way the sticker is that Ron posted.  I have a McCandless sticker still on my toolbox that is a twin to that one.  That's the only reason though, I can see a lot of wisdom in doing it the way you just mentioned.