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noisy lifter, oil consumption, fouled plug, low compression... UPDATE

Started by 471_Magnum, February 27, 2012, 11:40:53 AM

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471_Magnum

I've kicked around the idea of going with a solid, but elected to stick with hydraulic.

Ordered my lifters yesterday from Topline Highlift.

Still on the fence regarding the cam. It's either going to be a XE275HL, or Hughes HEH3237AL. Pretty much the same duration and timing, but the Hughes has more lift. I'm leaning towards the Comp Cams offering just because I think it will be a little easier on the valve train in the long run... and it cost less.
"I can fix it... my old man is a television repairman... he's got the ultimate set of tools... I can fix it."

firefighter3931

Glad to hear the block will clean up with a hone job ? How are the piston skirts ? Minimal damage on the crank with it just needing to go 10/10  :2thumbs:

If you go with a hydraulic or any flat tappet cam with agressive lobes i would strongly consider having the cam nitrided. Comp offers this service and it's well worth it, inmo.  :Twocents:


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

471_Magnum

Piston skirts are scuffed, but I can clean them up with some scotchbrite.

Base on my visual inspection of the crank, I didn't see anything that I thought wouldn't polish out. I was a little surprised at the 10/10 recommendation. Had that crank not been on the tight side with slight warp out of the box, I probably would have fought to keep it STD.

Comp doesn't list a part number for any Mopar cams with their Pro-Plasma Nitriding. Only part numbers they stock are Chevy apps (go figure). In their tech forum they state they can do it to any of their cams, so I emailed for a quote. Based on the prices of the Chevy cams listed, it nearly doubles the price.

I am leaning towards the Comp offering over the Hughes piece. I just don't think the extra lift will amount to a detectable power increase on the old butt dyno. Don't think it's worth the extra valvetrain stress on a street motor.
"I can fix it... my old man is a television repairman... he's got the ultimate set of tools... I can fix it."

firefighter3931

Fixing the warp issue with a 10/10 regrind makes sense. Good news on the piston skirts  :2thumbs:

The Nitriding is available but you have to custom order it. Yes it's expensive but with a fast rate cam you need it for reliability. The agressive hydraulic cams are all done by 5800-6000 rpms...anything beyond that and they're floating the valves. If you're happy with those parameters then go for the hydraulic stick.  ;)


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

471_Magnum

"I can fix it... my old man is a television repairman... he's got the ultimate set of tools... I can fix it."

firefighter3931

Quote from: 471_Magnum on March 14, 2012, 11:22:07 AM
Just got a quote for a nitrided XE275HL.

$292  :o


Ya it's pricy but what does it cost to remachine a block and replace hard parts.  :P


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

471_Magnum

"I can fix it... my old man is a television repairman... he's got the ultimate set of tools... I can fix it."