Stall-Out question:

[Captain D]

Yes, I'm looking to get one very soon - great tool to have hands down.

Another friend suggested that I replace the wire that runs from the coil to the very center of the distributor cap - that runs everything he stated. It seems that the local parts stores sell it, but only as a universal set (Accel) for $37.

Because it at least fired up - if only for a second - he seemed to rule out the ECU unit module, the alternator, the coil itself, the ballast resistor, and believed it to be either the distributor, the cap, rotor, and/or this specific wire that runs from the coil to the distributor. So, we'll see what happens from there...
Aaron

[resq302]

Something just doesn't sound right.  What would cause it to immediately die after you let your hand off of the ignition switch?       Do you have a spare ignition switch to try out?  Or at least check for continuity when the switch is in a certain position?

[Captain D]

Hey there Brian,

Yeah, frustrating indeed. As noted above, a friend of mine suggested replacing the wire from the coil to the distributor. So, I went and got one for $5 this evening, but I have a feeling that this isn't the problem. But hey, I'll give it a try tomorrow to see what happens  . As I was driving away, I noticed that Auto Zone will test your electronic modular box to see how good it is. I may have it done soon since I haven't purchased a meter as of yet. Had I known that they do that there, I would have taken it along w/ me but I'll have it tested before we take the car to the garage on Wednesday.  

That's interesting that you mentioned the ignition switch - I was just thinking about it myself too. I had this replaced about 3-4 years ago, but if this was the problem, can a 6-prong reproduction ignition starter be used to house the actual ignition switch (with my current cylinder and key)? Here were a few ebay links below (but what's up w/ the wide price range? Any pros/cons with a specific name brand?):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-69-Dodge-Charger-Polara-Ignition-Starter-Switch-/120371206962?hash=item1c06aedb32&item=120371206962&pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMP-STANDARD-US-50-Switch-Ignition-Starter-/261066395107?fits=Year:1969|Model:Charger&hash=item3cc8c50de3&item=261066395107&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

Perhaps its the problem since I read that if everything else in the car works fine (headlights, wipers, tail-lights, etc.), but the car won't start - then the problem is not battery related - but could be the ignition switch. I've came across a few being sold on ebay between the range as little as $15/$25 to about $100 - but what's up with the wide price range? I suppose its one of those 'who get what you pay for' deals more or less...?

With that being said, I wonder if a common sign of a faulty ignition switch has anything to do with the previous garage's ability to work the blue/green fusion-link to help it start in the past, and the car's stalling out while driving it on the road...? For those with more experience than I on this topic, could there be a connection somewhere somehow?

Btw - I believe somewhere on here I read to make sure to have a good ground w/ the electronic ECU modular box by removing a little extra of the paint on the firewall where the bolts hold it into place. If that is true, I can try that as well.

Thanks again,
Aaron

[resq302]

Yes, you definitely have to have a very good ground for the ECU box.  Otherwise, that could cause all kinds of problems.  I attached mine to bare steel and then put some dielectric grease dabbed onto the contact points prior to mounting it to ensure no corrosion could happen.

[Back N Black]

Check your ignition switch before buying a new one.

With the key in RUN there should be continuity between BAT_IGN1_ACC, with the key in START there should be continuity between BAT_IGN2_ST and IGN1 and ACC should lose continuity to BAT. With the key in ACCESSORIES there should be continuity between BAT_ACC.

The GRD terminal is used only on some bodies and there should be continuity between the GRD terminal and the switch housing in START.

[Captain D]

Hi all,

Just to state an update on the outcome at the shop this past Wednesday:

When the car first arrived, the main mechanic - the Chrysler expert/Mopar guru - ran a jump/hot-wire from the coil to the battery just to rule out that it wasn't fuel pump/filter related and, sure enough, the car immediately fired up and ran fine. I explained to him how the previous body-shop was able to work the wires that ran from the bulkhead and was able to get the car started. So, he checked everything and determined that indeed the bulkhead definitely needed cleaning - which explained the stall-outs and the car's inability to fire up and stay running.

With that being said, I feel embarrassed that it was something as simple and minor as the bulkhead (as another member posted on here: those ^%$# bullheads  ),  - but I have to say that I am extremely grateful for everyone who responded with some info with possible causes of this problem - all around a great group of guys on this forum hands-down! One member in particular who especially deserves public recognition is Brian (resq302). Brian was kind enough to go that extra mile to rush me an ignition switch overnight with expedited shipping just so that we could have it on hand if need be while @ the shop on Wednesday - an all round' top rate member on here!    

With that being said, I have to admit - I definitely feel that I learned a lot regarding the many other components under the hood, their functioning, and what to look for if/when something like this happens again in the future. Many thanks to this forum!!  
High regards,
Aaron  

[resq302]

Aaron,

It was only over night because you live so close by!  I am always glad to help out a fellow mopar enthusiast. (actually ANY car enthusiast)  No recognition is needed.  Just paying it forward like other people on here have helped me out.  Just glad that even though it was not the ignition switch that if it was, you could have had one there to test out and at least get your car on the road again till you could have gotten one for yourself.  After all, we are all here to learn about and love our dear Mopars and to keep them on the road right?  Why not help each other out in the process!   

Working on, fixing, and even just doing research on our cars helps us learn the individual quirks of our cars. 

Again, glad to hear that your car is fixed and back on the road!