What have you done with your Charger lately?

[c00nhunterjoe]

I have neglected the old fella for a few years now.  But now he is back and badder than ever. 

Added rear sway bar (if you haven't put one on you should huge difference)
Added subframe connectors
Replaced rear seat with one out of a 2010 Charger fits perfect
changed rear end gear lube
changed oil

and I have hit about 6 shows in the last few weeks and have brought home 5 trophies.  Its been a blast this year I've really missed doing this the past couple years.

Later
Josh

Pics of the seat swap!!!!

[jwilk01]

Here are a couple of pics.  It fit really great the bottom is about an inch and a half off on each side but it really isn't that noticeable.

Later
Josh

[JamieZ]

Lots of work repairing the frame rail over the last few weeks.  I fitted the Safe-t-cap piece, got everything welded back together. Access to the engine side is very limited, which sucks.  Fabricated a top piece to cover the section under the UCA bracket, welded that in, then painted every thing.   Once that was done I started bolting pieces back onto the car.  This is where I ended up:



Unfortunately I had an issue with one of the UAC bushings and will have to order a new one (my fault).  I still need to torque, grease and pin everything, but it went back together a lot easier than it came apart....well except for that stupid lower ball joint dust boot.

[erlendch]

I had the black part around lights repainted.

Then lowered the driver seat about an inch by cutting the frame. Not sure if you can see from the pics. I'm 6'4 tall, so much better for me to drive this car now

And changed the radiator, manifolds, heads, well I think pretty much rebuild whole engine, electronic ignition and new exhaust system. Everything pretty original, but I as you can see I didn't care about the looks under the hood, just kept it in the alu silver color rather than bothering to paint it in red/orange (which I believe is how it came).

[erlendch]

Also replaced the gauges.

AND installed an overdrive from Overdrive Vendors. Hid the button under the dash. It rides so much better on the highway now.

And wash it, but got a bit dirty again when I took this last picture..

[Fred]

I've just finished adding three layers of rubberised undercoating to the underside of  front guards. For extra protection.

[ottawamerc]

My new interior from Legendary just showed up looking forward to installing it now


Scott

[Charger-Bodie]

Also replaced the gauges.

AND installed an overdrive from Overdrive Vendors. Hid the button under the dash. It rides so much better on the highway now.

And wash it, but got a bit dirty again when I took this last picture..

Looks great! Nice Charger

[Chippa]

Filled the tank and cruised on a great spring arvo here in sunny Perth (AUS) And will empty the rest of the tank tomoz 

Ahhh Spring is here 

[Ghoste]

Replaced the ecu, now I can take it to work Monday. 

[JamieZ]

Removed the damaged UCA bushing and pressed a new one in.  Then after a lot of persuading with the rubber mallet I reinstalled the UCA.  I then tightened, pinned, and lubed everything.


After that it was time to slap on a wheel....and now it looks like a real car once again:


Now all I have to do is remove the old master, install the new booster / master.  Bleed everything.  Balance the wheels, do an alignment, etc

[XH29N0G]

Learned how to hotwire the car so I can get home, even if my ignition switch acts up again.

[bill440rt]

Did some recent work on my '70 Charger, things I've been wanting to get to this year. Just little improvements here and there.

1) Replaced the windowfelts with more correct versions from Topcat.
2) Replaced the over the counter Philips modern sealed beams with an NOS date-coded set of Westinghouse beams.
3) Replaced the repro shift knob with an OEM NOS knob. Took over a year to find one.
4) Swapped the outside remote mirror with a correct NOS manual mirror. That turned out to be a tough part to find as well, searched for at least a year.
5) Replaced the superceded outside door handles with repros from Trim Parts. IMHO they are the most authentic looking repro outside handles that are nice quality & fit. Couldn't find correct NOS ones or even a set of really clean used ones to rechrome.
6) Replaced the power steering return hoses with plain hoses of the right material, the junky "KV" repro hoses swelled up like balloons & turned squishy. Disaster waiting to happen.

[keith88]

Front brake job,new inner and outer bearing both sides and added cross drilled and slotted rotors.

[Patronus]

I scored some sweet original black door pads...FINALLY! Thank you ebay! Minty for $370 shipped. 

[Laxy]

Filled the tank and cruised on a great spring arvo here in sunny Perth (AUS) And will empty the rest of the tank tomoz 

Ahhh Spring is here 

Nice one, I did similar after finally getting my new Quick Fuel 750 running sweet, best the car has ever run after sorting various little gremlins. Cruised it up to Mundaring Weir on Saturday and then caned it to work today, awesome weather for it!

[Laxy]

On a separate note, have been spending a couple of weeks trying to get a new Quick Fuel Slayer 750 running right, it was just dumping bulk fuel into the manifold at idle and no amount of adjusting seemed to be helping, as this was my first Holley after a few Edelbrocks over the years and I had to go away and do some reading. Installed a fuel regulator as thought the pressure was too high from the Carter electric pump, also tried various idle mixture settings etc to no avail. Yanked the carb, pulled it apart and checked everything and then found the transfer slots were way too exposed, got them square and brought the idle up by opening up the secondaries slightly. Accelerator pump was perfect and choke set on the lean side. This combined with idle screws 1/2 turn out and idle and cruise were finally in the sweet spot, 14-15 inches on the vacuum gauge.

Now it was running out of fuel as you piled the revs on, tried bumping the regulator up and also a second in-line pressure gauge to verify the pressure reading (6.5psi). No good. Then cracked it and just bypassed the regulator whilst fiddling on the side of the road in an industrial area and bam, now it pulls like a 14 year old and blows the tyres off through first and second from a rolling start. Woohoo!

From cold the gauge is showing almost 10psi (on a gauge that my mate says has proven accurate in the past) but the fuel bowls are staying in the middle of the sight glasses and even after a long cruise with lots of idling there were no issues, so will leave it bypassed for now.

[71charger_fan]

Paint prep is well underway. Should be painted and on its way to reassembly by the time I next get home in a couple of months.

http://portal.autowatch.com/extview/extview.cfm?rk=315b65f&emailid=%26%24%5ECZQ%2CC%2E%0A&r=y

[JamieZ]

I bolted up the sway bar, that was the last piece of suspension that needed to be attached.  I tried the stock brackets, but getting the bushings in was just going to be too much of a headache so I picked up a pair of Energy Suspension ones that are greasable:



I also balanced the wheels using the bubble balancer:



And finally I put all 4 tires on and dropped it to the ground:


It's been a long time since it was off jack stands.   I still have to swap the studs out in the driver's side rear but that's something I can do at a later date.   

Next on my list is pulling the dash out so I can pull the master and mount my new booster/master.  I also picked up a new speedo cable, it looks like the old one was burnt and now is the time.

[Lord Warlock]

finished paintwork on the rear valence panel and lower rear quarters,  Installed the rear back up lenses, then installed the back bumper for the first time in 10 years.  wetsanded and polished the drivers side, trunklid, and passenger rear fender.  Installed the R/T stripe today, car is now looking almost complete.  Now i only have to figure out how to prime the brake and fuel lines with fluids, bleed brakes, then get the plug wires oriented properly to see if it will start again after all the brake work.

a side note to the previous poster, you don't have to remove the dash to install a new master cylinder, I put one in the 80s in the parking lot of oil rig company, you can undo the 4 bolts inside the car footwell under the dash without touching the dash.  tightening all 4 studs is slow going with limited clearance, but i was using open end wrenches at the time.  today i'd use power tools.

[JamieZ]

a side note to the previous poster, you don't have to remove the dash to install a new master cylinder, I put one in the 80s in the parking lot of oil rig company, you can undo the 4 bolts inside the car footwell under the dash without touching the dash.  tightening all 4 studs is slow going with limited clearance, but i was using open end wrenches at the time.  today i'd use power tools.

I've managed to remove 3 of the 4 that hold in the master, the upper one on the driver's side is a beast due to the column being in the way.   However, the new booster/master comes with a new firewall plate. This requires removing the UPPER bolt.  There is no way I could get that off without pulling the dash (and using a stupid long extension).

[grdprx]

I tightened loose bolts on my torque converter this evening.  Was making some noise yesterday, had me a little worried.  Glad it was an easy fix, thanks for the help pointing me I'm the right direction DC.com!

[moparnation74]

a side note to the previous poster, you don't have to remove the dash to install a new master cylinder, I put one in the 80s in the parking lot of oil rig company, you can undo the 4 bolts inside the car footwell under the dash without touching the dash.  tightening all 4 studs is slow going with limited clearance, but i was using open end wrenches at the time.  today i'd use power tools.

I've managed to remove 3 of the 4 that hold in the master, the upper one on the driver's side is a beast due to the column being in the way.   However, the new booster/master comes with a new firewall plate. This requires removing the UPPER bolt.  There is no way I could get that off without pulling the dash (and using a stupid long extension).

I have replaced several master cylinders in B Bods.  Three of the four bolts are fairly easy to remove.  The one is question is a PITA but can be removed with extensions and swivels.

[Charger-Bodie]

a side note to the previous poster, you don't have to remove the dash to install a new master cylinder, I put one in the 80s in the parking lot of oil rig company, you can undo the 4 bolts inside the car footwell under the dash without touching the dash.  tightening all 4 studs is slow going with limited clearance, but i was using open end wrenches at the time.  today i'd use power tools.

I've managed to remove 3 of the 4 that hold in the master, the upper one on the driver's side is a beast due to the column being in the way.   However, the new booster/master comes with a new firewall plate. This requires removing the UPPER bolt.  There is no way I could get that off without pulling the dash (and using a stupid long extension).

I have replaced several master cylinders in B Bods.  Three of the four bolts are fairly easy to remove.  The one is question is a PITA but can be removed with extensions and swivels.

Medium deep 1/2 socket, 1/4 inch drive with a swivel wrapped in tape to give some control of its floppiness and a long extension . I'm not kidding when I say that I can swap a master cylinder in a b body in five minutes.

[Lord Warlock]

I honestly don't remember how hard it was, I wouldn't be surprised to look under there and find only 3 nuts holding it on.  After all I did try to do it in a parking lot infested with mosquitos in coastal Louisiana and had to drive 3+ hours to get home.  I didn't even bleed the brakes afterwards, but it was a lot better than trying to drive through New Orleans without any brakes like I did on the way TO Houma LA.  It failed about 5 miles before I got to New Orleans, scared the crap out of me.  The fix has lasted me 30+ years though.