still with pinging

[Nacho-RT74]

NICE!!!! how much you paid ?

[b5blue]

Advance Auto store 3.09 ea. and they got them overnight for free so no shipping. I'm a veteran so I got 15% off (3.68) and tax was 1.47. TJ the manager gave me a free 5.00 gift card also so I paid 17.51 for 8 of them. (They love my Charger.) 
  I'm putting them in this weekend so I'll report back.

[Nacho-RT74]

yeap... I checked the price on Advance but just for curiosity. They don't sell to cards outside USA.

[b5blue]

  Put them in today, ping is reduced but not gone. The new plugs extend into cylinder less, the electrode is shorter than XR-5's. Idle is fine and runs just as good but punch it over 3K and get a few pings. Next to back down timing a bit. I can't wait to get new lifters and adjustable push rods to dial in my valve train, it could be what I still hear. 

[c00nhunterjoe]

  Put them in today, ping is reduced but not gone. The new plugs extend into cylinder less, the electrode is shorter than XR-5's. Idle is fine and runs just as good but punch it over 3K and get a few pings. Next to back down timing a bit. I can't wait to get new lifters and adjustable push rods to dial in my valve train, it could be what I still hear. 

I hope you don't hear lifter noise above 3k. What gives you that impression? Why are you changing lifters?

I hope I just misread the post, you are not going to run adjustable pushrods are you?

[b5blue]

  After my rebuild I've had some lifter chatter. I used a Mopar "Resto" (Road Runner) grind as it matched the six pack grind yet also matched the single bolt Mopar Timing chain set I bought for the rebuild much earlier. (I run a six-pack.) I used Mancini's standard size push rods with new Mopar HD stamped rockers and Mancini's rocker shafts. I read here about Johnson Hy-Lift lifters being the only USA made lifters and their high quality so not knowing who Mopar gets their lifters from figured I'll change to them and at the same time switch to Smith Brothers adjustable push rods.
  The "plan" was always to install Crane iron Adjustable Rockers with ball/cup push rods shortly after the rebuild but they are not available anymore. (The other part of the "plan" is to switch to aluminum heads later so the adjustable valve train made more sense then cut to fit push rods.) I won't go into the money lost buying used Crane rockers trying to build a good set or finding NOS ones only to end up with 1.6 instead of the 1.5 ratio needed.
  Much of my issues come from the rebuilt heads, used valves installed in used heads with the valve seats cut all change factory tolerances, I have a few so far off with standard push rods I can hear some slop cranking it up.
  So knowing the lift is "off" is what I mean about the ping, the cylinder's not operating at 100% and that could cause ping under heavy load.
  (Sorry for the kinda high-jack Nacho!)  I'm not way off as it starts/runs fine and will light the stock size tires easy, I just can't punch it mid range and let it rip or I'll get a few pings transitioning to WFO as the six-pack opens up. (I dealt with ping for years with the 509 cam and closed chamber heads that were on the car when I bought it.)      

[Nacho-RT74]

don't worry, the experience is about the same... pinging, and related.

so, is not completelly gone?... ok, I'm worried now!

Checked my spark plugs and they are brownish with some small particles sticked around the ceramic, what looks to be somehow greenish

[b5blue]

My XR-5's looked fine. I may have under estimated my compression at 9.5 to Don when he set up my dizzy so I may have a bit too much advance built in. For me it won't matter for awhile anyway. With paint work going on slowly and only a 4 mile round trip to work when I get the body sealed up again there is no place to exceed 45 MPH anyway. As I said I know the valvetrain is not 100% yet.  Try the 7's first Nacho they might just do the trick as you did all that quench work and I did not! 

[Nacho-RT74]

MY 7's are onthe way to Miami, then to Venezuela... will take a while. Meanwhile will try the Champs J63Ys &/or J12YCs.

Today I got a cilinder fail. It looks number 6 spark plug is gone.

I don't have my valvetrain 100 either. Tappets are not good. Will install IF I CAN today my brand new Hi Lift Johnsons lifters what arrived on friday at home

[Nacho-RT74]

Today I got a cilinder fail. It looks number 6 spark plug is gone.

I don't have my valvetrain 100 either. Tappets are not good. Will install IF I CAN today my brand new Hi Lift Johnsons lifters what arrived on friday at home

Today got confirmed my tappets are damaged... it looks a pushrod jumped out ( again ) and some tappet ALLMOST got out the bore, because began to loose oil pressure and got tappet sound... thats really the cilinder 6 failure, not the plug.

I know didn't jumped out completelly because oil pressure got back... Maybe tappet got back correctly to the bore


( that's an off topic reply LOL )

[Nacho-RT74]

I can't find any of the adviced Spark plugs on local parts dealers. Everythime I have asked for the J63Y dealers put a funny face LOL. Then request for a colder plug my RJ12YC and they offers to me the J8C... dunno.

I know my NGKs are on the way but will take a month or so. Wanted to test another one for a while

I thought I had saved from my old stock, J12YC, but no, they were J12Y.

So I can find locally in Champion at least, in 14 mm, 13/16, .375

J8C
J12Y
J12YC ( I think to remember they are at least, available )

Resistor plugs are tipically non available. In fact thats why I had to get from Summit the RJ12YCs

[Nacho-RT74]

http://www.sparkplugs.com/pdfs/championracingchart.pdf

[mhinders]

Nacho, I usually get my spark plugs from here:

http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/

Service has been quick and good. Don't know how it works for you though with the customs etc.

Cheers,
Martin

[mhinders]

Checked my spark plugs and they are brownish with some small particles sticked around the ceramic, what looks to be somehow greenish

I would say this indicates pinging and too lean mixture.
When I was running my 2-stroke outboard motor hard and adjusted the mixture too lean I got those small "melted balls" around the ceramic on the spark plugs. I've seen it several times. I read somewhere an explanation of the phenomenon but can't remember it right now.

[Nacho-RT74]

Nacho, I usually get my spark plugs from here:

http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/

Service has been quick and good. Don't know how it works for you though with the customs etc.

Cheers,
Martin

Thanks.... I'm in Venezuela were the LACK of performance parts and EVEN SOME STOCK PARTS is a daily deal. I already got NGK spark plugs, they will be on the way soon, but trying to make a test with what I can find locally

[Nacho-RT74]

NGKs ALREADY IN HANDS...

I guess as sugested will begin with 7s to check... if get success, will try then the 6s if these will work. As soon I confirm the ones working, will get more to have spares

[Nacho-RT74]

Partial success. Got it better but still some pinging. Now will begin to play with vacuum advance since now it looks that could be the reason.

Got noise on radio... Something maybe expected since plugs are without resistor. I don't like that

Something unexpected: the tach began a funny flickering under certain circunstances that I can't define yet. MAYBE temp related ( I was running on highway at 70-90 Mph by an hour or so ) and the USED OLD MSD BLASTER 2  coil I'm running, could be beginning to fail

[mhinders]

My tach was bouncing all over the place when I bought the car. Removed it, hooked it up with all separate wires in front of the car, perfect function.
I guess I have a grounding problem, will be taken care of this winter...

What color are your plugs now?

Cheers,
Martin

[Nacho-RT74]

Dunno, will know when return home tonight. I traveling with my car and don't want to use tools if not really necessary. Just took the allen to reduce the vacuum advance 1 turn CC and check if better

[BSB67]

Partial success. Got it better but still some pinging. Now will begin to play with vacuum advance since now it looks that could be the reason.

Got noise on radio... Something maybe expected since plugs are without resistor. I don't like that

Something unexpected: the tach began a funny flickering under certain circunstances that I can't define yet. MAYBE temp related ( I was running on highway at 70-90 Mph by an hour or so ) and the USED OLD MSD BLASTER 2  coil I'm running, could be beginning to fail

Have you done a compression test, and what are the results?
Does it ping under part throttle medium/high load?
Does it ping under full throttle?
Does it ping through the entire rpm range under full throttle?
Does it ping ONLY under full throttle?

[Nacho-RT74]

Have you done a compression test, and what are the results?
Does it ping under part throttle medium/high load?
Does it ping under full throttle?
Does it ping through the entire rpm range under full throttle?
Does it ping ONLY under full throttle?

1---not yet. Engine was built in dec/jan though

Today coming back to home I Could test more on the highway at diff levels. I was on the city where my GF lives around 450 meters height, one and a quarter hour from my home. I live at around 950 meters height.  At this moment with the new plugs and vacuum 1 turn CC from previous stage ( although not sure yet on how much degrees vacuum advance applies at this moment )

No pinging on flat sections of highway, no matter the throttle, RPMs or whatever, tranny kickdown or not, I didn't got pinging. Arrived to 4500 RPMs ( when kick down happened ) and 100 MPH for some instants

Going up the hills to reach my city level without go full throttle and with speed inertia, just giving gas enough to keep the speed and then A TAD more, MAYBE could heard couple of pings, no more.

If I had to release the gas pedal because got traffic, going up a hill and pressing back the pedal ( medium throttle maybe ) got a hard pinging... that happened around 6 times. One of them could check 50 MPH and 2500 RPMs. I had to press gas pedal just right before pinging, at pinging borderline untill get speed again, maybe 70 MPH, then at that speed ( wasn't able to check RPMs, my tach is below the dash and I was driving in curves at night ) I was able to give gas again without really lot of problems, but had to take care of it

ALLWAYS DRIVING WITH AC... one of the moments I got hard pinging going up a hill, could turn off the Compressor ( set in Vent function )... nothing changed.

didn't registered a flickering on tach this time, not saying didn't happened.

initial time is still at 12-14° ( the ign lamps jumps a little bit ), springs on my MP dist are pink and orange. Mech adv slots were set with 20° keys

[BSB67]

Have you done a compression test, and what are the results?
Does it ping under part throttle medium/high load?
Does it ping under full throttle?
Does it ping through the entire rpm range under full throttle?
Does it ping ONLY under full throttle?

1---not yet. Engine was built in dec/jan though

Today coming back to home I Could test more on the highway at diff levels. I was on the city where my GF lives around 450 meters height, one and a quarter hour from my home. I live at around 950 meters height.  At this moment with the new plugs and vacuum 1 turn CC from previous stage ( although not sure yet on how much degrees vacuum advance applies at this moment )

No pinging on flat sections of highway, no matter the throttle, RPMs or whatever, tranny kickdown or not, I didn't got pinging. Arrived to 4500 RPMs ( when kick down happened ) and 100 MPH for some instants

Going up the hills to reach my city level without go full throttle and with speed inertia, just giving gas enough to keep the speed and then A TAD more, MAYBE could heard couple of pings, no more.

If I had to release the gas pedal because got traffic, going up a hill and pressing back the pedal ( medium throttle maybe ) got a hard pinging... that happened around 6 times. One of them could check 50 MPH and 2500 RPMs. I had to press gas pedal just right before pinging, at pinging borderline untill get speed again, maybe 70 MPH, then at that speed ( wasn't able to check RPMs, my tach is below the dash and I was driving in curves at night ) I was able to give gas again without really lot of problems, but had to take care of it

ALLWAYS DRIVING WITH AC... one of the moments I got hard pinging going up a hill, could turn off the Compressor ( set in Vent function )... nothing changed.

didn't registered a flickering on tach this time, not saying didn't happened.

initial time is still at 12-14° ( the ign lamps jumps a little bit ), springs on my MP dist are pink and orange. Mech adv slots were set with 20° keys

Thanks.  The next piece of information that you NEED is the cranking pressure.  What is the thremostat temperature rating.

[Nacho-RT74]

T stat, is the MP one. 180º

[BSB67]

There is a sequence that you should follow in determining why you have detonation, and possible ways to fix or put a band-aide on it.  It starts with cranking cylinder pressure. Once you have established this, you can determine if it is too much cylinder pressure, or if something else could be the cause (oil, heat, fuel, fuel pressure....).  If it is due to too much cylinder pressure for the fuel you have, possibly make some changes to help the condition.

One unknown variable that I have for your situation is what is the quality of fuel that you have access to.

Finally, just to get an idea if changing around the timing will help, start with disconnecting the vacuum advance unit, set initial at 15 ish, and have a total of 34 in at 3000 rpm.  If it pings with this set-up, no adjusting of the timing will help without seriously hurting performance.  If this makes the ping go away, then you can start messing around with more advance, how it all comes in, and the vacuum unit.

[Nacho-RT74]

when I was running XR5s, already driven with vacuum advance unplugged and didn't changed.

quality of fuel is a BIG POSIBILITY... and really sad on a oil country