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Car likes idling at 1000rpms

Started by frank1966, December 05, 2016, 10:29:40 PM

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469 runner

Dang Coonhunter, that sounds terrific.  As for the OP, usually I like to do timing first, then carburetor.  Set the initial advance where you are getting the highest idle speed and vacuum, and does not kick back at startup;  This is what the engine will want.  If you have pinging then the total advance will need adjusting, Initial+centrifugal+vacuum= total.  Then adjust carb. If you are having to open the throttle blades too much to achieve a steady idle then you will want to open the secondary a tad if there is an adjustment.  I had to drill the blades a little on my Edelbrock as there was no adjustment and I really liked my Racer Brown SH44 cam which is very similar to the old MP 509 cam.

frank1966

Quote from: HPP on January 08, 2017, 11:39:46 AM
Quote from: frank1966 on January 07, 2017, 06:26:01 PM
Thanks, when i turn it down to 750, its not stmbling or about to stall, its only an increase in engine vibration, shaking not a whole lot. If i have a vacuum leak by increasing the idle to 1000 offsets a vacuum leak?

The leak is introducing additional air into the engine without the fuel to stabilize the idle. Turning the idle speed up is allowing enough fuel to draw from the carb to offset the extra air coming form the leak.

But as others have said, there are a lot of variables involved. Some cams flat out wont idle at lower speeds. The 300*/.590 in my 360 idled at 1200.

I see i will check fora leak

c00nhunterjoe

Quote from: 469 runner on January 08, 2017, 11:45:24 AM
Dang Coonhunter, that sounds terrific.  As for the OP, usually I like to do timing first, then carburetor.  Set the initial advance where you are getting the highest idle speed and vacuum, and does not kick back at startup;  This is what the engine will want.  If you have pinging then the total advance will need adjusting, Initial+centrifugal+vacuum= total.  Then adjust carb. If you are having to open the throttle blades too much to achieve a steady idle then you will want to open the secondary a tad if there is an adjustment.  I had to drill the blades a little on my Edelbrock as there was no adjustment and I really liked my Racer Brown SH44 cam which is very similar to the old MP 509 cam.

I had the ssh-44 ground on a 108 center in the 383. Great cam, awesome power.

BSB67

Quote from: 469 runner on January 08, 2017, 11:45:24 AM
I really liked my Racer Brown SH44 cam which is very similar to the old MP 509 cam.

The SSH-44 pre-dates the "old" 509

500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph

c00nhunterjoe

Quote from: BSB67 on January 08, 2017, 02:05:22 PM
Quote from: 469 runner on January 08, 2017, 11:45:24 AM
I really liked my Racer Brown SH44 cam which is very similar to the old MP 509 cam.

The SSH-44 pre-dates the "old" 509

:cheers: still a great grind

69wannabe

It really depends on what cam the engine has and it really needs to get a timing check and get that locked down and go to checking for vacuum leaks and adjusting the carb from there. Most of the mopar's I have worked on seem to like to idle between 800 to 1000 rpm's even with a mild to moderate sized cam. Mine seem's to like 900 rpm's idling, that's where it idled with the 440 and that's where it idles with the 493. They all seem to have a different happy place......

frank1966

I played with the timing with my vacuum gauge, the needle sits right at the middle of normal operation. Thats good ro know that it could be a normal idle.

BSB67

Quote from: frank1966 on February 04, 2017, 08:57:21 PM
I played with the timing with my vacuum gauge, the needle sits right at the middle of normal operation. Thats good ro know that it could be a normal idle.

What is the numerical value, and at what rpm?

500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph