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Ammeter bypass

Started by twodko, January 14, 2013, 09:46:54 PM

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twodko

I spoke with a guy today.....MOPAR only shop..... To get some niggling things done on my car one of which is bypassing the ammeter. He's says he sends it out and it's converted to a volt meter solving the issues of high current through the old ammeter....read fires......and having a functional gauge.

Real deal guys? How much should I expect this to cost west coast money?
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

cdr

i would say 2.5 hours labor + the gauge! its easy to do !
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

WHITE AND RED 69

I paid Redline gauge works to convert mine and put it back in myself. It was about $150 and that included painting it white, so it should be a bit cheaper keeping it black. I sent in the cluster housing and it took about a week and a half including shipping.   :cheers: 
1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

mhinders

If you have a look inside the original ammeter you can see that nothing is going to burn in it.
Here is what the 1967 ammeter looks like inside: -The current is flowing thru the solid U-shaped metal piece, nowhere else.
I can promise you, something else is going to burn before the ammeter!
Martin
Dodge Charger 1967, 512 cui, E85, MegaSquirt MS3X sequential ignition and injection

cdr

the problem is it gets hot & the insulation gets bad & shorts out against the housing & the wires get very hot & before ya know FIRE  :buff: :smilie_help:
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

Back N Black

Quote from: mhinders on January 15, 2013, 03:48:28 PM
If you have a look inside the original ammeter you can see that nothing is going to burn in it.
Here is what the 1967 ammeter looks like inside: -The current is flowing thru the solid U-shaped metal piece, nowhere else.
I can promise you, something else is going to burn before the ammeter!

I agree, i had about 15 gauge clusters over the last 10 years and not one of the amp gauges were burnt????????

cdr

i have seen 5 burnt,,,when i took my 68 apart it was roasted----------------bottom line is ,one burnt car is one to much  :Twocents:
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

twodko

I appreciate your input mjinders and its true.......nothing in the gauge will burn its everything after it that will.



FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

bill440rt

I had Redline do my cluster was well, white face conversion also.
If you just want the ammeter/voltmeter conversion I think that was just about $100 bucks by itself? They were very good, and a very reasonable turnaround.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

twodko

Morning Bill,

I don't know where they send gauges too but this shop is "the" go to MOPAR shop in my area.  My only concern is whether it will look brighter and cleaner then the existing ones. The others are in great condition.....no fading etc. withnthe few other small fixes I can't afford to redo them all. We'll see.
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

HeavyFuel

The title is a little misleading.......maybe should say Ammeter Conversion. :scratchchin:

No matter...have you considered doing the actual bypass as described in other posts (to truly reduce the risk of fire), in addition to the conversion to a voltmeter, which by itself really doesn't address the problem?

mhinders

Quote from: cdr on January 15, 2013, 05:36:11 PM
the problem is it gets hot & the insulation gets bad & shorts out against the housing & the wires get very hot & before ya know FIRE  :buff: :smilie_help:
It only gets hot if you have a loose connection/corroded connection or similar, something that creates a resistance in the path of the current flow.
Without resistance, no heat can be generated, that's the law of physics.
Martin
Dodge Charger 1967, 512 cui, E85, MegaSquirt MS3X sequential ignition and injection

Hard Charger

My 72 Challenger had a charging problem for years. The battery would die every couple of weeks. I thought it was because i was not using that car much. It was getting embarrassing getting stuck with a dead battery.

I finally got fed up with it and went to a electrical repair garage and he found that it was because my factory ammeter had burnt out. The needle had actually fallen off and sits a the bottom of the gauge.

The guy bypassed the meter and put a wire from the alternator to the battery. I paid about $150 including a new regulator.