Who wants to Megasquirt, full sequential fuel/ spark a 68 charger! This Guy!!

[Black_Bee]

There are pics of an oem-style Tanks-Inc EFI tank on Moparts.com http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1833306/re-let-the-hemi-swap-begin.html and it looks super sweet... much nicer than the Phantom setup which honestly was the biggest pain in my rear of my entire conversion.

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Anyone able to get a Tanks Inc tank yet for the 68-70 chargers?? Its said Coming Soon!! for a long time now.

I've had one on order since June, I called last week and they said they were expecting to receive them on August 14th. So hopefully I will have mine within the next 2 weeks.

[Derwud]

Anyone able to get a Tanks Inc tank yet for the 68-70 chargers?? Its said Coming Soon!! for a long time now.

I've had one on order since June, I called last week and they said they were expecting to receive them on August 14th. So hopefully I will have mine within the next 2 weeks.

Sweet, let us know...

[grnfsh]

WOW.. Tanks INC deal is not bad at all. I was going to go with the Phantom pump but I think I changed my mind.  You spend about $100 more for the Tanks Inc by the time you are done buying a pump and sending unit BUT you get a brand new tank, and you dont have to spend time Effing with cutting a hole in your tank.  You could even re-sell existing parts and come out in the black.

[redmist]

I am doing the same thing....

I already have a phantom system, but it's hacked into my stock tank. I am going to remove the phantom, put the pump in a surge tank, and use the tanks inc setup!


EDIT!

Just dropped coin on the tank, and a sending unit!

I will add it to the thread when I put it in!

[grnfsh]

Just dropped coin on the tank, and a sending unit!

I will add it to the thread when I put it in!

any indication of back order? Time to delivery?

[redmist]

Didn't look like it.. they sent it right out!

[WHITE AND RED 69]

My tank showed up today, very happy with it. The powder coating looks great and the tank itself appears to be well made. 

[grnfsh]

Looks great, thanks for sharing

[Derwud]

Very Nice.. Jealous...

[Black_Bee]

My tank showed up today, very happy with it. The powder coating looks great and the tank itself appears to be well made. 

That sure is a lot nicer than my stock tank with Phantom kit.  It sure seems like a no-brainer to use this tank instead of anything else now.

[Derwud]

My tank showed up today, very happy with it. The powder coating looks great and the tank itself appears to be well made. 

That sure is a lot nicer than my stock tank with Phantom kit.  It sure seems like a no-brainer to use this tank instead of anything else now.

Yeah, less than the Phantom kit and more manageable.

[redmist]

Got my tank as well... I will start another thread about it so it doesn't get buried in this thread.

[Aussiemadonmopars]

I've been going through the manuals for the MS2 & MS3 and I've been finding it hard to find the differences between the two. It looks like maybe some of the hardware might be a little different with the MS3 having the SD card but apart from that I'm at a loss. Is it really worth paying the extra and going for the MS3 pro edition? What other features do you get out of MS3?

[MechTech]

Hi Aussiemadonmopars
The time that I have spent looking it looks like the MS2 version does not not allow full sequential fuel or ignition. The MS3 does not either. The MS3X does and the MS3Pro does. If that's not important to you I am sure you'll do fine with an MS2.

[Aussiemadonmopars]

cool, thanks for the reply Mechtech. So I guess this leads me to some other questions like, what are the advantages of having the full sequential fuel and spark capability? Does it make for a smoother running engine? Are there any benefits with using full sequential with other fuels like E85? Just trying to guage whether it's worth going for the extra effort to upgrade.

[MechTech]

Hi Aussiemadonmopars
I don't know yet how much of a benefit I have actually gotten from full sequential. I was running batch fueling which is what the MS2 will give you, I had read somewhere that full sequential will increase your horsepower 2 to 3%. My motor feels like it is making more power although I do not have an ET to prove it. Some of the tuning benefits are that you can adjust fuel per cylinder and spark timing per cylinder. One improvement that I noticed right away was that the timing was dead on every spark it did not wonder around like a distributor or MSD crank trigger (and you can set any timing curve that you want). That alone seems like it would smooth out the motor. redmist indicated on one of his posts that he thouhgt his motor was running smoother on the full sequential over the carburetor.  The MS3X and Pro give you a lot of tuning option's and finding a new toy in the toybox to play with is always fun and rewarding. The MS3 allows for different fueling option's I think the MS2 does also. If money is the determining factor you could start with the MS3 and wire up and oxygen sensor Air Intake Temp sensor connect the MAP sensor set up a tach sensor and later add the MS3X card for sequential spark and later on add sequential fuel. If you are just starting a build The MS3X controller will allow you to do away with and MSD unit for ignition.

[Aussiemadonmopars]

Still, 2-3% on a 500HP engine is a good gain especially if it smothens out the lumps and makes it more manageable on the street. Thanks for the detailed info Mechtech.

[grnfsh]

I've been following this thread for some time now, but just decided to register and share my success too!

Mine is a 383 (in a Super Bee, sorry!), so there isn't as cool an EFI intake available (or any EFI intake) so I had to modify an old Torker, but I used the same basic recipe.  MS3X, Jeep cam sensor, LS truck coils, 36-1 wheel.

I got mine running about two weeks ago and really haven't had much time to work on tuning it, but it sure runs nicely right out of the box!

Bee ,  nice work, I like how you have you coils mounted.  Did you just put a nut on the underside of the valve cover? are you concerned about the nut coming loose and falling into the drive train?

[Black_Bee]

Bee ,  nice work, I like how you have you coils mounted.  Did you just put a nut on the underside of the valve cover? are you concerned about the nut coming loose and falling into the drive train?

I basically copied what Mopar Action did.  From the inside, small screws are threaded and threadlockered through the valve covers into short coupling nuts.  The coil is then held in place with another small screw into the same coupling nut.  Fiber washers on the inside keep things relatively leak free so far.

I had thought of using some epoxy to make things permanent and reduce the risk of the nuts falling out, but then I would worry about the epoxy falling out too...

[grnfsh]

Bee ,  nice work, I like how you have you coils mounted.  Did you just put a nut on the underside of the valve cover? are you concerned about the nut coming loose and falling into the drive train?

I basically copied what Mopar Action did.  From the inside, small screws are threaded and threadlockered through the valve covers into short coupling nuts.  The coil is then held in place with another small screw into the same coupling nut.  Fiber washers on the inside keep things relatively leak free so far.

I had thought of using some epoxy to make things permanent and reduce the risk of the nuts falling out, but then I would worry about the epoxy falling out too...

I thought about doing it that way as well. What I would do differently, and this is just in my head right now. Is run one long screw all the way through from the inside of the valve cover and use it like a stud for the coil. That way at least you can visually see its still there and check how tight it is on occasion. Do you think that would work?

[grnfsh]

Hey Guys quick question about the cam sensor. With the engine at TDC. how should it be clocked?

[Black_Bee]

Hey Guys quick question about the cam sensor. With the engine at TDC. how should it be clocked?

My synchronizer came with a plastic tool that bolted to the synchronizer in place of the sensor to set its position, and it set the half moon OFF of the sensor (.05V) at TDC compression (just about centered), and ON (4.95V) the sensor at TDC exhaust (also just about centered).  This can be be reversed if you choose to, you just have to choose the correct settings in TunerStudio with the  "Level for Phase 1" setting.

If you are asking about the clocking of the housing itself, I just set it to where it looked tidy.  If it isnt where you want it when you set the sensor, just move the cam gear on the cam.

[peterro]

Hey again.

I'm making some progress and I think I'm pretty close. Would some of you mind posting your current tune? My 440 isn't anything special. Basically a stock motorhome build from 78 so it may not be right but maybe closer than what I have.

Thanks,
Ron

[peterro]

After a night of thinking about my issue, I think my VE table is probably not right. The car starts and sort of idles at ~15-1700 for 1-2 seconds before falling flat as if without any fuel. Anyone have a good link for the specs of a 78 Winnebago 440 for a starting point to feed into the table generator?

Thanks again.