has any one here actually rebuilt the heater valve? did a search and everyone says to send it off to be rebuilt. took mine apart and the only thing that appears to be wrong is a gasket, just slightly larger than what goes on the end of a garden hose, was bad. $11 at napa. just wondering why people aren't fixing themselves. :shruggy:
I rebuilt mine, only after I found an NOS one..in case I :o broke it. It works perfectly :2thumbs: Here are some pics.
thanks for replying. how did you refinish the back plate? looks great.
It was really rusted. Started with a corse wire wheel, then went to a fine wheel. Then, 800 grit paper. Finished it with Eastwood Diamond Satin. Should be cadmium. Liked the look of the brushed steel. One day, I will put my NOS one I got. But for now, :2thumbs:
I rebuilt mine as well but no luck, the little plunger will not shut the water completely off and that's a seal no longer available from napa. I have constant heat in my car if I hook it up.
The NAPA seal just seals the copper tube assembly to the steel backplate. The other seal is on the plunger inside the upper copper tube. It's what interrupts the water flow. The plunger seal gets hard and then cracks or abrades off and, thus, doesn't work well any more. One reason you might want to send your off is that the guy in california that rebuilds these has a supply of the plunger seals which he uses to rebuild these. And the copper tube assembly was really not meant to be taken off the steel backing plate. You can do it once probably but the second time, the tabs break off. So you have about one shot to get it fixed. That's why it's probably best to send your unit off to be rebuilt. Just make sure that whoever does it is replacing both seals---not just the flat seal that NAPA used to have (and may still have for all I know). I know that Old Aire Systems used to rebuild these but they didn't replace the plunger seal because, they told me, they didn't have any of these.
This assembly is a part that someone ought to repop. It wouln't be necessary to include the capillary sensing tube part of this since that part probably doesn't work on most of the old cars anyway. Just make the thing so the Bowden cable from the dash opens and closes the valve. Note that 1970 units were vacuum operated instead of using the Bowden cable.
For the record, I have taken mine apart three times, none of the tabs have broken off as I make them soft with a very small torch. They tend to snap when the material is cold.
I can't justify the cost of sending mine off just for that little seal though...
fortunately my plunger is good. if the plunger is bad, you have no chose but to send it off. called classic air today and they get $155 plus shipping. :scared: i guess i was wrong. they have the plunger gasket in here. http://www.rarespares.net.au/rarespares/ProductPage.aspx?product=RSP335
Quote from: hawkeye on March 27, 2013, 07:35:50 PM
fortunately my plunger is good. if the plunger is bad, you have no chose but to send it off. called classic air today and they get $155 plus shipping. :scared: i guess i was wrong. they have the plunger gasket in here. http://www.rarespares.net.au/rarespares/ProductPage.aspx?product=RSP335
They do but they won't reply to my emails. :shruggy:
EDIT: I take that back, different store but also in Oz. Maybe this one will work...
The other store needed a minimum purchase of $25 or something so I sent them an email about it and never heard back.
I rebuilt mine, and I bouhgt in 521 retorations http://www.521restorations.com/index.pl?page=smallparts Item Part No: HCKIT-001
Hope if these helps
Quote from: WhiteOnGreen on March 28, 2013, 06:55:22 AM
I rebuilt mine, and I bouhgt in 521 retorations http://www.521restorations.com/index.pl?page=smallparts Item Part No: HCKIT-001
Hope if these helps
Thanks but it looks like that's the rear seal only, Idon't see the plunger seal in that. When I got that round seal I think it was in the same packaging. Napa sells them for around $10 by the way but they also do not carry the plunger seal.
The plunger seal is just a plastic part but I guess it has worn a bit so it won't seal properly. If I knew how, I'd crimp the tube around it to fit the seal and get it over with.
I machined the plastic plunger and adapted a rubber seal.
Quote from: WhiteOnGreen on March 28, 2013, 07:12:41 AM
I machined the plastic plunger and adapted a rubber seal.
How did you do that? That sounds like a good option to me.
the guy that rebuilt mine was:
Jim Tucker, 29597 Paso Robles Rd., Valley Center, CA 92082. Phone 760-749-3488. e-mail jthcv@juno.com
I have no idea if he is even still around.
Well I found another seal, compared it with the old an guess what? They are identical in size and condition. The tube must be off. I found another valve on ebay so hopefully that one works.
I don't have the diagram handy but how does the valve work exactly? When you push the temp slider button the cable pushes the little lever on the valve but what happens to the plunger? Does it slide in or out? Seems to me the plunger is always in the wider part of the tube where water can flow freely around it.
On my stock valve, moving the lever side to side makes the plunger move maybe 1/8", that can't be normal.
Dino, I traveling this week and when I get back I will check my NOS one and let you know :2thumbs:
Quote from: PlainfieldCharger on July 19, 2013, 08:05:21 AM
Dino, I traveling this week and when I get back I will check my NOS one and let you know :2thumbs:
Thanks buddy! Enjoy the trip! :2thumbs:
Dino, I checked that NOS valve today. Man that is pretty...the total travel is about 3/16 inch.
Quote from: PlainfieldCharger on July 22, 2013, 01:43:17 PM
Dino, I checked that NOS valve today. Man that is pretty...the total travel is about 3/16 inch.
That's definitely more than what mine has. I remeasured and mine doesn't even have 1/8.
Thanks for doing that!
I actually found a valve on ebay last week for $30 which should arrive tomorrow. Hopefully less beat up than mine. :lol:
THIS IS THE COMPLETE REBUILD KIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DMT-68-69-B-Body-AC-A-C-RANCO-Heater-Water-Control-Valve-Repair-Kit-Seal-/360657138408?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item53f8d732e8
Quote from: cdr on July 22, 2013, 07:18:10 PM
THIS IS THE COMPLETE REBUILD KIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DMT-68-69-B-Body-AC-A-C-RANCO-Heater-Water-Control-Valve-Repair-Kit-Seal-/360657138408?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item53f8d732e8
Does anyone know if this valve rebuild kit comes with their AC heater box kit?
They didn't come with my rebuild kit.
Quote from: hawkeye on August 10, 2013, 07:07:24 AM
They didn't come with my rebuild kit.
Good to know, thanks. :cheers: Clicking on BIN. :icon_smile_big:
Looks like the nice rebuild kit from Detroit Muscle Technologies is no longer available.
Quote from: Chatt69chgr on August 30, 2013, 09:39:09 PM
Looks like the nice rebuild kit from Detroit Muscle Technologies is no longer available.
it says they have more than 10 in stock
Quote from: Chatt69chgr on March 29, 2013, 02:13:44 PM
the guy that rebuilt mine was:
Jim Tucker, 29597 Paso Robles Rd., Valley Center, CA 92082. Phone 760-749-3488. e-mail jthcv@juno.com
I have no idea if he is even still around.
Still around. Just had Jim rebuild mine. Looks good, but haven't tested it yet.
Quote from: PlainfieldCharger on March 25, 2013, 07:05:00 PM
I rebuilt mine, only after I found an NOS one..in case I :o broke it. It works perfectly :2thumbs: Here are some pics.
how did you get the inner shaft out ?
Quote from: PlainfieldCharger on March 25, 2013, 07:05:00 PM
I rebuilt mine, only after I found an NOS one..in case I :o broke it. It works perfectly :2thumbs: Here are some pics.
just wondering if you could look at your nos one & tell me if the base plate were the rubber seal sits is flat or slight concave shaped you should be able to see it from the back side thank you
Hello, I just saw this post...I will get you the info you need. The NOS valve is in storage at my shop. I will not be going back there till this weekend...I will grab it and get some pics for you...
Kevin