hey guys :cheers:
my front end needs an alignment since all the new suspension & sway bars...
but i also need to raise it up a lil for my front tires!!! so before i take it to the shop for an alignment...
how do i raise it up a with the torsion bars?!?!?
thanks!!!!
:2thumbs:
-john
the torsion bar adjusting bolt is in the middle of the rear of the lower control arm, screw it in to raise, screw it out to lower, try to have both sides at same ride height, drive around block a couple of times to make sure the new setting is settled and measure again, easeir to do with the weight of the car off the wheels but then of course you have to keep raising and lowering the car to check the height
This is clearly outlined in the FSM, sorry no scanner for you to see. :2thumbs:
Instead of driving around I just get each front corner bouncing up and down for 30 sec or so and that ususally seats it.
hey mauve :cheers:!!! thanks guys.. i'll see what i can do tomorrow?!?!? weather permitting!?!?!?
:2thumbs:
Quote from: HITMAN 149 on August 12, 2010, 09:09:33 PM
hey mauve :cheers:!!! thanks guys.. i'll see what i can do tomorrow?!?!? weather permitting!?!?!?
:2thumbs:
Start soaking the threads down with penetrating oil now, long before you try to turn the bolts.
They're a fine thread and can be a real bitch to turn, especially if there's any rust on them. (which there will be)
:2thumbs: will do!!
thanks daytona!! i have a mopar friend comming over tomorrow to help w/ some stuff!!! :2thumbs:
Turn the adjusting bolts the same amount on each side to keep a semblance of symmetry to your ride height. I usually go 5 turns with the socket on each side and then recheck the height. Easy mod to do.
Dan
One side of my car moved down (too much for my taste) and FROZE. Now it won't raise nor lower. :brickwall:
thanks guys!!
wow that sucks cuda nuts!!! hahaha :nana:
<threadjack> (no pun intended)
World's greatest penetrating oil;
http://www.kanolabs.com/google/ (http://www.kanolabs.com/google/)
Superior even to SeaFoam and PB Blaster, which I use regularly. When you have a seemingly insurmountable seizure, and don't want to damage the parts, use this stuff.
Here is how I did it: take a straw, coffee stirrer, Popsicle stick, or hunk of wire coat hanger (anything) after getting the air pressure exact on all 4 tires, cut the (anything) to fit exactly from the ground to the bottom of the lower ball joints lowest point. That is your base measurement. I think the FSM calls for 1 5/8" to be added, the exact number is up to you. Tape another piece of whatever (I used coffee stirrers) that is marked (in my case 1 5/8") down from one end so the mark is even with one end of your "base measurement" piece. Now you have a "Gauge" stick. You hold the gauge under the lower control arm exactly beneath the collar that the lower control arm bushing is pressed into. (Between the two parts where the lower control arm itself come down, inside there) If you are on a really flat surface, you can move the gauge around and raise or lower the adjustments until the gauge just clears the lowest point of that round bushing holding part. Jounce the car on the side you adjust firmly at least 3 times after every adjustment until it's very close on both sides to your gauges setting. In my case I drove the car for 10-15 minutes turning left and right and stopping and going looking for bumpy areas of road, then recheck, readjust, retest drive as needed. I ran the car for several days before getting alignment and rechecked until I was certain nothing changed and the whole chassis had settled in to it's new height. (I had just repaired suspension bushings and installed new springs and T bars) It's the first step in an alignment and it's not to be trusted to just anyone. I have no idea what can be limiting your adjustments, if it was all working before you should be OK. How new/good are your lower control arm bushings? You can loose a lot of adjustment if they are ripped up.
Quote from: elacruze on August 13, 2010, 04:52:48 PM
<threadjack> (no pun intended)
World's greatest penetrating oil;
http://www.kanolabs.com/google/ (http://www.kanolabs.com/google/)
Superior even to SeaFoam and PB Blaster, which I use regularly. When you have a seemingly insurmountable seizure, and don't want to damage the parts, use this stuff.
I second the motion on the "Kroil"
Good stuff :2thumbs:
Quote from: ACUDANUT on August 13, 2010, 03:58:26 PM
One side of my car moved down (too much for my taste) and FROZE. Now it won't raise nor lower. :brickwall:
Yea, even after PB blaster....It's frozen...Even with a 1/2 Impact 3/4 inch socket...With lots of torque. :brickwall:
Sounds like grit in the threads, lots of lube, I use Slick 50 with Teflon spray (NAPA) just because it is dirt rejecting in these kind of areas. (Little trick from my dirt bike days to save my chains) With lots of lube go back what ever way you were going, take all weight off that side of the cars suspension first, the pressure on the "Cam" part of the adjuster's tip is putting huge force there if you get what I mean. If you get it moving out (car would be coming lower if not supported) remove that bolt completely and pull the threaded insert out. Clean them and check the threads on both parts, grease everything and then reinstall. Spray lube around the collar of the lower control arm where it wraps around socket the T bars go into. You may want to jack each side as you crank up to not try to lift the whole weight of that side of the car with just that bolt's tip!
The search button is a wonderful thing ;) ;)
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,55908.0.html
Hmm, I have a couple cans of Kroil, it doesn't seem to be any better that PB blaster.
thanks to EVERYONE!! and NH.... i did a search.. i just didn't find what i was looking for??
thanks guys!!! well wish me luck tomorrow!! hahaha
:2thumbs:
You can do it, Good Luck! :2thumbs:
done!!!!!!!! woooo hoooo no problems!! at alllll and the bolt turned like it was brand new from the factory!!! lol
and we also adjusted the shifter cable (which was allll EFFFFFFED up thanks to my EX buddy at the shop!!! :flame:) and the kickdown linkage!!! now all i have to do is get an alignment!! :2thumbs:
thanks guys!!!
:cheers:
Now be sure to get a shop known for doing old school cars, with top rate equipment, my first alignment was a disaster and total waste of time and money! Ask around before committing I was bullshitted by the shop, then sought references from restorers on the next one. I'm really glad you got it! :2thumbs:
Yeah, what b5blue said.
I had my Charger set up the way I wanted, brought it to the shop I always go to for alignment and when they were done the nose was pointing up like the general lee taking off on a jump. They told me the followed the factory specs in adjusting the ride height and I shouldn't have the front so low, blah, blah, blah. Made them put it back to where I wanted it. Never been back.
The bitch is changing the front height after alignment will actually change toe in, caster and camber slightly, that's why it's done first. I set mine exactly to FSM height have all the same size 4 rims and tires and had the car set to dead on straight as they like to put a slant to the alignment to off set road slope (The crown in the road for drainage) that I hate. The passengers side is kicked up in the rear due to the extra leaf a little, I've been thinking about a fix for that. I did all this to get a good reading on my chassis condition and have had great results. I'll need offset bushings to lower the front and have new UCA to install them on later. (To keep ideal settings) I did find a reference to an "improved handling" option that dropped the car 1" all the way around. I like the look of the lowered front but under severe braking it tends to pitch the ass up and the nose down and that lowering exacerbates that effect. (Handling gets crappy when you would need it the most)