The 73/74 K members isolators are starting to go bad, and several clunks are hearing down my car. I checked and also the internal bushings and mettalic plates are badly rusted so I need to make them. Since they are not available as NOS not even Repros up there ( on black rubber ) I have to use some regulat quality repros made in here. But that's only the rubber sections.
As far the metalic parst of these isolators, I need to make the internal square and long bushing welded on to a top Big "washer" or plate. That's easy since my uncle works with metalic parts and I have a pair in good conditions to reproduce them, BUT I removed one of the isolators and DID LOOK THAT HAD somekind of plate between the top section of isolator and K member itself. What I want to mean is that the rubber isolator between K member and Frame rails has also metallic insert/washer/plate making somekind of "sandwich" with the upper isolator section.
Is really on that way ?
Look at pic... I'm asking for the plate between question marks
You could go for solid aluminum isolators avail from MP or eBay...
Not too sure about the metal spacer you have shown. I have seen one like that on the front K iso, but not on the rears of my parts car. I haven't taken the K out of my car yet.
:icon_smile_cool:
all 4 corners use the same assembly ( front and rear ). I checked PN on my 74 catalog and is the same to all 4 pieces
I can go with anykind of spacer/"isolator" since as stated is my uncle bussines, but I'm going with "stock"
Is not really an spacer, is somelike a plate with an elongated collar where upper section of isolator enters.
;DI got a good set of isolators from Summit Racing 2 years ago.I think they where about $85.00 plus shipping,they worked great. :icon_smile_cool:
I believe poly ones are available. It will take part of the "squishy" feel away from your 74.
http://www.justsuspension.com/
I got mine from Prothane. They are in black polyurethane and have all the hardware except shims and the bolts. It cost about $50-$60. They feel super stiff compared to the rubber ones on it originally. I would expect it to be a stiff ride once I get it and all the other polyuretahne suspension bushings on.
i used a poly kit for mine, shortly after I installed them i found out about the aluminum ones.
I will stick with rubber aftermarket locally made. They are harder than originals, but I had to make by myself the bushings. My doubt is/was about the collar or plate between the K member and upper isolator. The ones made in here are with a ovalated collar vulcanized (sp ?... I want to mean is casted in the rubber itself ) but without a washer or plate, just the collar
New member here! Picked up my first 73' Charger just over a month ago and have been locating things in need of attention. The one issue that's really got me cringing is this. The k member is rusted out on the drivers side as is the torsion bar snapped. Yikes I know. I was able to find replacement torsion bar but am looking into options suggestions as to how to replace/weld or what can be done to resecure the k member part of the frame. Thanks
Quote from: o1gnah on January 29, 2022, 06:20:55 AM
New member here! Picked up my first 73' Charger just over a month ago and have been locating things in need of attention. The one issue that's really got me cringing is this. The k member is rusted out on the drivers side as is the torsion bar snapped. Yikes I know. I was able to find replacement torsion bar but am looking into options suggestions as to how to replace/weld or what can be done to resecure the k member part of the frame. Thanks
You need to find a new K member
Say it ain't so
Found this on the gram but haven't got a response as to what it's called where to obtain who makes dah dah duh
https://www.instagram.com/p/B9x3TVFg9Ly/?utm_medium=copy_link
I've come along way. I almost have my k member removed from the frame rail. Ran into a hiccup. The good news is the front mounts dropped straight out with impact gun. The rear that caused me to tackle this job (drivers side) rusted bushing mount (culprit) bolt head snapped and is still lodged in the frame rail. Passenger side rear mount is loose but is just spinning as if there is a nut inside the frame rail that needs to be held still.hmmm...
The front does have small holes in the side of the frame rail and I can finger a small flat rectangular nut. There is no hole on rear should I assume it's the same? If so or if not been reading about cutting a small square window to pear in and find out what going on. Thanks for the help in advance. Post picks as soon as the transfer from iPhone to iPad
(Photo 1): passenger side front mount
(Photo 2): driver side front mount
(Photo 3) snapped bolt head from rear drivers side mount
(Photo 4) same as photo 3 with cross member visible
(Photo 5) passenger side rear mount w/spinning bolt
(Photo 6) same as photo 5 close up
(Photo 7) passenger side rear mount bolt head that spins
(Photo 8) front frame rail hole with what I think is a flat rectangular nut
One of my bolts was also just spinning. I cut the head off to remove the k-frame and then followed this youtube to remove it. Worked great! just be sure to soak it in penetrating oil after you weld everything.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fi5RKRQz7NI