I am currently building my 69 Charger and have always wanted a General Lee and I have everything to make it a General Lee, Anyway I have always been hardcore Mopar guy and have always loved the Daytona and Superbirds well I see myself now looking here and there for Daytona conversions pieces, I for one just bought a set of AMD front fenders so I would have to sell those and buy a good 70 fenders and hood, as well as figure out thetrunk lid and rear window plug as I have been told a Vega rear hatch will work, I saw Stinger fiberglass make a nose,tail,latch tray,scoops, nose under pan, fender extensions for about $2400.00, I don't know if the factory trunk lid can be cut down as finding a nice 500 decklid would be cost prohibitive! Just thought it might be cool to roll around in a Daytona as dad drove one back in 71 for awhile (was a car that was on my grandfathers dealership lot!) any opinions would be appreciated, If I did go the Daytona clone route my 69's original color is a bright red (don't know the code) had white interior with a black vinyl top, So I would most likely go back with those colors with the exception being black interior and black tail stripe, Like I said this has been something that has been a thought pulling me in a direction I had not intended but I don't think any of us ever go through that!! :icon_smile_big:
Add about $20k (or more) to the cost of doing a GL (depending on who is doing the body work). If the price doesn't scare you then build what you want. No one makes repro 70 fenders or hoods and finding originals isn't easy. The Stinger parts will need work to fit right. The stock trunk lid can be converted (that's how Creative did the originals). You can use a Vega hatch for the plug but they aren't exactly easy to find either. Make sure you get the trim!
If you've always wanted a GL then why change your mind in mid-build? Bad idea! Besides, if you've never built a car from the ground up I'd stick with the easier option. ;) My opinion these days is that I'd rather have a finished car on the road than a never-ending project. These all take a lot more time and effort than planned - but you can guarantee the extra amount of work for a Daytona clone will be massive. I currently have 3 projects in process and 3 drivable cars that keep needing more money so I'm becoming very sensitive about changing plans and how it affects everything else.
Troy
I agree with Troy, you need to decide which of the two beats stronger for you. When you hit the frustrated stage of the redo these things will be bigger hurdles.
Well I have only had the car a year and yes I really want a General Lee and was just kind of thinking out loud! :icon_smile_big: I am not too worried about fab work I am ASE/ I-CAR certified and I have built plenty of cars, (quite a few Import fiberglass body kits as well for customers) finishing up a 72 Dart swinger right now, Here are some pics of the Charger as it is right now just test fitted the quarters last week. (http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7040/6778162736_7a9403d90c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6778162736/)
100_0885 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6778162736/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7040/6778162728_050002a568.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6778162728/)
100_0884 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6778162728/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
I wouldn't restore another 70 just because you can't find a good front clip at a decent price. Shipping a used hood forget it $$$$. Anything i did come across was deep on the other side of the border. Took a year and a half to get a drivers fender. Looked good in primer no patches. Once stripped the whole fender is warped. Someone must have sandblasted the whole thing and warped it/pounded it in and puttied it. Will be an expensive fender once done. $550 plus many hours of bodywork.
You even have a general lee on the wall ;-)
Well that helps. Even without the labor you'll still have a bunch of money in parts and a lot of time in tracking them down. You have all the GL stuff now so you're ready to go. Get that thing on the road!
I like them both but the one you can drive sooner is the best.
Troy
Yeah all of you make valid points I guess seeing the auction for all those Daytona parts and knowing I have a good 69 Charger kind of piqued my interest going that way! Here is the auction with pics of the fiberglass http://www.ebay.com/itm/140713526221?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/140713526221?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649)
it's worth the trouble when you have a daytona replica done. a daytona replica is a lot rarer then a gl. :Twocents:
the only thing i would use from stinger is there nose and headlight doors . there wing sucks. it's one piece :cheers:
Bigblocksam, Your right on the money alot of people can build a General Lee but not everyone can build a Daytona, and also the value of the Daytona clone if I had to sell it I have a feeling would be considerably more than a General Lee, One quick question for you Daytona guys is the regular "rear filler panel" on a Daytona a different structrual piece? I don't think I have ever seen pics of the area under the rear plug and how the inner structure attatches to the pinchweld area on the plug anybody have any??
Easy solution!
Finish the General then build another as a Daytona clone.
Wing cars whether real or Tributes, are like 426 Hemi engines, while they are fun to look at and bench race till your little heart is content, but they are expensive to buy and build....
Stick with the General Lee. You will NOT be sorry at the attention it brings over a Daytona. The Daytona attracts a certain attention from certain folks...The General Lee just simply Attracts attention period..
You're asking in the Aero section so most people here will be biased BUT not everyone wants to build a Daytona. It isn't just a matter of skill or money - although the Daytona (if done correctly) take a lot more of both.
Of course, not everyone wants a GL either...
Those who are partial to the real thing (either one) won't really care that you're building a replica/clone because it will always be a copy at best. Both will attract a lot of attention but more people will recognize and relate to the GL. The Daytona has the potential to be a lot more expensive to fix once you bash the nose into something because you can't tell where it ends. Build whatever you want most.
There are lots of pictures in this section covering the plug area and all that goes with it. Yes, the filler is specific to the Daytona (has to be to match the deck lid).
Troy
Hmmm so can't decide a GL or a Daytona :shruggy:, Is there another Duketona sequel in the works :lol:? j/k :stirthepot:
Anyway there are several parts source threads in here to check out and some of whats involved if you get some time to check them out.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7040/6778162736_7a9403d90c.jpg)
Holy Cow !!! How's it going with this project? How are the panels fitting? I'm afraid when it's all said and done, I may have to go this route on my '69 Charger 500 and would LOVE to do it myself... Doesn't the rear trunk floor pan need to go in before the taillamp panel is installed? (of course, I'm assuming you're either using a full floor or the taillamp panel isn't welded in yet...
i agree on the one that gets you on the road faster. I knew what i wanted from the first day i bought it but only did a little at a time trying to get it to the dream or "my vision" as the wife puts it, now 19 years later (in May) its still not done, if i would of just left it stock with what i had i would of been driving it for the past 19 years
Quotethe filler is specific to the Daytona (has to be to match the deck lid).
for the filler panel we use 73 era charger dutchman panel. nothing fits 100% everything has to be adapted but i see you got the skills . i think a daytona is more rewarding to build . cause it's so much harder then a gl but very satisfying when done . some times i said to my self "what the f did i get myself into" . good thing is there's a lot of people here with the answers, when you get confused. this is the only pic i could find. :cheers:
Hemi68, Yeah those quarters I just hung on there and clamped the tail panel on the car just to test fit them and they do fit like a glove as I did not even need any clamps to hold them to the window pinchweld, I still have to blow everything apart again and sandblast the rear stub then epoxy it all, as far as the money issue what you see there I have a little over $10,000 bucks includes the purchase price of the complete 69 Charger and the AMD sheetmetal, If I did decide to go the Daytona route I could sell the new AMD fenders my complete grille (which I have seen go for around $1000) rust free original 69 Hood, original valance, I think I honestly could build a clone Daytona for around $25,000 total some of you might laugh at that but I do all my own work, mechnical, autobody, paint.
I think I will do a little more research on the subject before I decide, Bigblocksam where is your thread with those pics? Looks very interesting!
i can't find my old threads . my computer crashed and i lost all my bookmarks but i was thinking of starting a new thread with my daytona build from beginning to where i am now .i built mine for under $20.000 . including the cost of the 69 charger .
i built her with some help from my friends
what rear glass did you use?
vega hatch, glass and trim $200
Quote from: BigBlockSam on March 02, 2012, 08:37:02 PM
i can't find my old threads .
Here's one :cheers:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,26905.0.html
IMO although the GL's are always great to look at, there are way too many clones. I think a nice Daytona would be not as common and will get almost the same attention. :yesnod:
Quote from: hemi68charger on March 02, 2012, 07:59:30 PM
Holy Cow !!! How's it going with this project? How are the panels fitting? I'm afraid when it's all said and done, I may have to go this route on my '69 Charger 500 and would LOVE to do it myself... Doesn't the rear trunk floor pan need to go in before the taillamp panel is installed? (of course, I'm assuming you're either using a full floor or the taillamp panel isn't welded in yet...
Just hold off a few more months Troy till I get my 70 r/t done. Then I can sell it and buy your C500 :drool5:
Quote from: Troy on March 02, 2012, 07:47:15 PM
You're asking in the Aero section so most people here will be biased BUT not everyone wants to build a Daytona. It isn't just a matter of skill or money - although the Daytona (if done correctly) take a lot more of both.
Of course, not everyone wants a GL either...
Those who are partial to the real thing (either one) won't really care that you're building a replica/clone because it will always be a copy at best. Both will attract a lot of attention but more people will recognize and relate to the GL. The Daytona has the potential to be a lot more expensive to fix once you bash the nose into something because you can't tell where it ends. Build whatever you want most.
There are lots of pictures in this section covering the plug area and all that goes with it. Yes, the filler is specific to the Daytona (has to be to match the deck lid).
Troy
I Agree but if you are building or buying to please anyone but yourself you will ultimatly be unhappy :Twocents:
Quote from: charger_fan_4ever on March 02, 2012, 09:38:25 PM
Quote from: hemi68charger on March 02, 2012, 07:59:30 PM
Holy Cow !!! How's it going with this project? How are the panels fitting? I'm afraid when it's all said and done, I may have to go this route on my '69 Charger 500 and would LOVE to do it myself... Doesn't the rear trunk floor pan need to go in before the taillamp panel is installed? (of course, I'm assuming you're either using a full floor or the taillamp panel isn't welded in yet...
Just hold off a few more months Troy till I get my 70 r/t done. Then I can sell it and buy your C500 :drool5:
'70 R/T?... :scratchchin:
QuoteHere's one
thank you :cheers: i'm gonna keep that thread going. i had fun reading it back and there was a link to another of my threads in there :cheers:
I've done both. I would never build a GL again, it was fun and had a blast when I was 19, but now it's just a little kidish and a nitch thing, and yes it does get attention but for completely different reasons.
In the long term the Daytona keeps its value and respect from every muscle car enthusiast of both Ford and Chevy people. Being in the GL group i noticed that it is just over done. I am saying this because I have done both - and from experience there is no builders remorse with the Daytona.
My GL should be able to be found on this site - I posted some pics some time ago.
Dane
I felt the car was more of a "Caricature" than a muscle car (Mopar). I got the GL out of my system, but I can't get the Daytona out of my system. Again this is just me and my experience.
Dane
(http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/6070/generalleecimbingin.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/525/generalleecimbingin.jpg/)
(http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/7468/genarallee.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/710/genarallee.jpg/)
I have tracked down a complete rust free Vega hatch for $150.00 from Texas, and I have a lead on a nice 70 hood. fenders and I think I the guy will trade my 69 hood and fenders for them!
i got a good 70 hood i'd sell . i'm in nj
QuoteI felt the car was more of a "Caricature" than a muscle car (Mopar). I got the GL out of my system, but I can't get the Daytona out of my system. Again this is just me and my experience.
IMHO the GL wasn't really so much a caricature per se. It was portraying the types of amateur racecars that tended to be pretty caricatured and cobbled-together in reality.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/soulsurvivor7/CookieRacingPictures010.jpg)
Not to start bashing the wing cars but IMHO they are no less a caricature than a GL.
Try showing a pic of a wing car to someone from the present day who doesn't know anything about the backstory of the car. To them it just looks like a very goofy George Barris-style custom, not a high-tech aero racer.
I respect the wing cars for what they were and the technological progress they represented. But the fact is, they only enjoy high respect today because their creation & racing career was a factory job (and now collectors are paying through the nose for them). If the Daytona was an invention of a modern-day amateur racer/hobbyist then IMHO we would consider them hopelessly crude and goofy looking - even if we were aware of the aerodynamic reasons for the mods.
I really think I am going to go the Daytona direction, I love General Lee's but the more I think about it the more I want a little creative freedom in making the Daytona "mine", I asked the wife what she thought of the Daytona vs. General Lee and she said she liked both! :lol:
Quote from: Indygenerallee on March 03, 2012, 04:41:46 PM
I really think I am going to go the Daytona direction, I love General Lee's but the more I think about it the more I want a little creative freedom in making the Daytona "mine", I asked the wife what she thought of the Daytona vs. General Lee and she said she liked both! :lol:
Was her eyes closed - and thinking of Bo or Luke :rofl: when she answered :)
:lol: I really think she could care less about the Dukes of Hazzard (she is 23 so she never was much into it! I am 32) I just told her this was the last car I was going to build and I think that's what she is more happy about! :lol:
This is where we agree to disagree, The GL is a caricature of the Southern good old boy mentality – it is a character in a program (that actually grew bigger than Bo and Luke, and they resented it, but came to embrace it). A Daytona is not a caricature – it is an accrual real life Mopar that was both produced for public and race consumption by Chrysler.
My point was they are two different animals. One has a Hollywood niche, like the Bat Mobile & Herbie, that as kids get older will lose its niche (and I believe has). If the New Duke's movie wasn't so skank-i-fied with two losers for Bo and Luke or dumb and Dumber, and an air head ding-bat for Daisy, the car might have made more of a comeback, and had more acceptance from Family viewers. Instead they chose to appeal to the "wife-beater" crowd that smokes "tree". Ha ha – can you tell how I feel? I would never let my kids watch that white trash. Yet, with the Daytona – a true historical monument will retain its luster if not increase in its appeal over time, thus no builder's remorse.
My wife is 9 years younger than I am and she had a Duke's lunch box. She loved Bo and Luke :)
Dane
One thing I will add is this: I know you are a tech and all that ,and so am I , but be forwarned that if you want to build a Daytona clone correctly it will be a ton of very hard work. Ive been building cars for 25 years and the Daytona clone was the most challenging thing mechanical Ive ever done.
Edit. Dont get me wrong,Im not trying to discourage you from doing it. And ,I dont regret doing it either because Its my dream car. Just saying.
See If I do build a clone I am not going to say it has to have this and that or it's not real, It's mainly cosmetic and I have no problem with that, I have bagged and done stock floor bodydrops, I really don't see it as being that big of a challenge but maybe thats because I have seen much more complicated jobs. My Daytona won't look "stock" so as long as it has the wing, nose and Vega hatch it's good for me as I am not the take it to a show and sit all day type of guy, I like to drive cars and this one would be driven often! jacked up a little higher than stock with some Cragar SS's :2thumbs:
oh yea, old school muscle. :2thumbs:
QuoteThis is where we agree to disagree, The GL is a caricature of the Southern good old boy mentality – it is a character in a program (that actually grew bigger than Bo and Luke, and they resented it, but came to embrace it). A Daytona is not a caricature – it is an accrual real life Mopar that was both produced for public and race consumption by Chrysler.
My point was they are two different animals. One has a Hollywood niche, like the Bat Mobile & Herbie, that as kids get older will lose its niche (and I believe has). If the New Duke's movie wasn't so skank-i-fied with two losers for Bo and Luke or dumb and Dumber, and an air head ding-bat for Daisy, the car might have made more of a comeback, and had more acceptance from Family viewers. Instead they chose to appeal to the "wife-beater" crowd that smokes "tree". Ha ha – can you tell how I feel? I would never let my kids watch that white trash. Yet, with the Daytona – a true historical monument will retain its luster if not increase in its appeal over time, thus no builder's remorse.
My wife is 9 years younger than I am and she had a Duke's lunch box. She loved Bo and Luke
Was DOH a caricatured show? Oh yeah, totally.
I'm just saying the appearance of the GL itself wasn't far away from the real dirt-track cars of the period.
It sounds like you're basically saying the Daytona concept doesn't get outgrown the way the GL does. I won't argue with that.
i went to a local show at the whiskey . there where 4 GL's there ...................no daytona's . this was a local show not a big one
I am at this point almost 100% sure I am going to build a Daytona clone I am going to call Stinger fiberglass Monday and talk to them about the kit and what it totally consists of, I don't think I saw the wing brackets that weld to the trunk floor if I get some decent pics I will make my own out of some channel, I did a search and have the measurements on the decklid 21 5/8" on each outside edge and 21 1/2" center on trunk, I am having the Vega complete rust free rear hatch shipped Greyhound as soon as possible, and maybe I can get together with guy with the 70 hood and fenders this next week and get that deal done, get all of the parts compiled. I had a couple questions does anyone know who sells the pattern where to drill the holes in the quarters for the wing uprights? and the trunk lid hinges I saw a couple posts of a guy that had made them but the posts were from way back in 2005 if someone could trace the side profile of a Daytona/500 trunk hinge I could make one from that, I also have a 74 Charger dutchman panel lined up for the gutter section. I was thinking about using my stock 69 Charger vacuum pods for the headlights as I saw they have a spring on the factory Daytonas to keep them up under vacuum failure, I think it should be doable or just do a linear actuator.
Quote from: Indygenerallee on March 03, 2012, 10:53:28 PM
See If I do build a clone I am not going to say it has to have this and that or it's not real, It's mainly cosmetic and I have no problem with that, I have bagged and done stock floor bodydrops, I really don't see it as being that big of a challenge but maybe thats because I have seen much more complicated jobs. My Daytona won't look "stock" so as long as it has the wing, nose and Vega hatch it's good for me as I am not the take it to a show and sit all day type of guy, I like to drive cars and this one would be driven often! jacked up a little higher than stock with some Cragar SS's :2thumbs:
Thats it - do it your own creative way.
Quote from: Indygenerallee on March 04, 2012, 12:41:01 AM
I am at this point almost 100% sure I am going to build a Daytona clone I am going to call Stinger fiberglass Monday and talk to them about the kit and what it totally consists of, I don't think I saw the wing brackets that weld to the trunk floor if I get some decent pics I will make my own out of some channel, I did a search and have the measurements on the decklid 21 5/8" on each outside edge and 21 1/2" center on trunk, I am having the Vega complete rust free rear hatch shipped Greyhound as soon as possible, and maybe I can get together with guy with the 70 hood and fenders this next week and get that deal done, get all of the parts compiled. I had a couple questions does anyone know who sells the pattern where to drill the holes in the quarters for the wing uprights? and the trunk lid hinges I saw a couple posts of a guy that had made them but the posts were from way back in 2005 if someone could trace the side profile of a Daytona/500 trunk hinge I could make one from that, I also have a 74 Charger dutchman panel lined up for the gutter section. I was thinking about using my stock 69 Charger vacuum pods for the headlights as I saw they have a spring on the factory Daytonas to keep them up under vacuum failure, I think it should be doable or just do a linear actuator.
About the quarters and the wing holes - let the wing you get dictate that, especially with aftermarket anything. Be more concerned about the wings location – any close up picture gets you really close.
Dane
make it a C500 clone , :scratchchin: can always make it a daytona later !! :popcrn:
Quote from: Indygenerallee on March 03, 2012, 10:53:28 PM
See If I do build a clone I am not going to say it has to have this and that or it's not real, It's mainly cosmetic and I have no problem with that, I have bagged and done stock floor bodydrops, I really don't see it as being that big of a challenge but maybe thats because I have seen much more complicated jobs. My Daytona won't look "stock" so as long as it has the wing, nose and Vega hatch it's good for me as I am not the take it to a show and sit all day type of guy, I like to drive cars and this one would be driven often! jacked up a little higher than stock with some Cragar SS's :2thumbs:
Yep. you are probably right.....
I found posts where "Daytonalo" was making and selling the trunk hinges, I tried e-mailing him but it just came back "full e-mail, daemon failure" looks like the last time he was on the forum was last year!?
Quote from: Indygenerallee on March 03, 2012, 10:53:28 PM
My Daytona won't look "stock" so as long as it has the wing, nose and Vega hatch it's good for me as I am not the take it to a show and sit all day type of guy, I like to drive cars and this one would be driven often! jacked up a little higher than stock with some Cragar SS's :2thumbs:
I'm not putting you down so don't take offense but that look sucked when it was "the look" everyone had to have :o These aero cars look even worse when jacked up as the ride height was already too high from the factory. I bought my RR in 1983 with that look and couldn't wait to change it. Just my opinion and it's worth nothing :rofl:
:lol: Not jacked to the sky but a slight rake with some beefy meats on the back is more what I was meaning. not where it looks like a car on a 4x4 chassis! :icon_smile_big:
By the way , here is a link to my "easy" Daytona clone:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,59899.0.html
Quote from: 1HotDaytona on March 04, 2012, 10:33:47 AM
By the way , here is a link to my "easy" Daytona clone .......
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,59899.0.html
:drool5: :drool5: :drool5: you made it look easy anyway
Looks great 1hotdaytona!
When I said it was a challenging project,I was just trying to help prepare you for what you are up against. These cars have there own set of challenges , which include hand made repop parts, initial quality that wasnt that great to start with. I have never seen a project that has gotten people to give up like a wing car clone. Its not easy. Its not cheap,but if you take it on and follow all the way thru you will be very proud whan you finish it.
I don't remember a single part actually fitting when I built Allen's or Howie's clones. Lots of tedious hand fitting. I will tell you that the more you build, the more you learn and the easier it gets. I was the first guy to realize that the 3rd gen dutchman had a similar curvature to the original Daytonas. I had a steel closeout panel and I laid it on the deck lid of a 74 Charger that I had. I was surprised at how similar the curvature was. The downside is that the deck lid has to be altered slightly different in order for the gasket to sit properly on the channels and seal to the deck lid. You cannot use an original 500 or Daytona deck lid or a deck lid that was altered to fit any other dutchman panel. Your deck lid will have to be altered with a slightly longer front lip. But, it's worth it. The 3rd gen panel works great.
Also, I found that an english wheel was very helpful in reshaping the lower portion of the vega plug so that it would actually lie down and fit. Like Dane, Mike G. and some of the others on this forum I could write a book on building a Daytona or a Superbird. But I think I'll leave that to the guys that have built many more than I have.
People always say that they aren't building their cars to impress anyone but themselves. Come on. We all have egos bigger than Dallas.
When I drive into a local cruise night or car show with the Superbird, people talk about it for days. There are several GL's around here and when they drive in no one even gives them a second look.
I do have a different opinion about your selection of the supplier of Daytona parts though. Been there...done that.
You will not regret the extra cost and build time to build the Daytona clone.
Thanks for all the input I really appreciate it! I have spent quite a bit of time today looking through old posts (way back past 2005) on most of your guy's builds
I tried getting ahold of Daytonalo but it seems as he has not been on the site since last year (on the trunk hinges) I found Gene Gregorys number for the closeout panel (hopefully he still makes them) found all the measurements for the decklid. I plan on making the wing braces and the wing washers myself as well as making the Z brackets out of steel using the glass ones as templates. I understand the project is a lot of fab work but I am no stranger to that and I am the kind of guy that is confident in my abilities or I would never attempt such a task! :icon_smile_big: I really enjoy seeing all your clones and seeing how you incorporated what where and how it worked out! I live for this stuff!! :2thumbs:
The wheels and stance on this Daytona are right about what I am looking for!! Looks great imo!
Quote from: 1HotDaytona on March 04, 2012, 08:33:30 PM
When I said it was a challenging project,I was just trying to help prepare you for what you are up against. These cars have there own set of challenges , which include hand made repop parts, initial quality that wasnt that great to start with. I have never seen a project that has gotten people to give up like a wing car clone. Its not easy. Its not cheap,but if you take it on and follow all the way thru you will be very proud whan you finish it.
This is also one of the most amazing Daytona clones ever - Hat's off to you 1Hotdaytona!!!
Dane
Trying to dig up some of my old threads...
Please stand by...
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,10669.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,21596.msg234719/topicseen.html#msg234719
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,56803.0.html
And... be sure to check the DC.com parts for sale section often ;)
Quote from: Daytona Guy on March 05, 2012, 01:19:00 AM
Quote from: 1HotDaytona on March 04, 2012, 08:33:30 PM
When I said it was a challenging project,I was just trying to help prepare you for what you are up against. These cars have there own set of challenges , which include hand made repop parts, initial quality that wasnt that great to start with. I have never seen a project that has gotten people to give up like a wing car clone. Its not easy. Its not cheap,but if you take it on and follow all the way thru you will be very proud whan you finish it.
This is also one of the most amazing Daytona clones ever - Hat's off to you 1Hotdaytona!!!
Dane
Thanks Dane!
By the way Indy generar Dane has the best wing for a clone hands down.
Im not sure im clear about the challemging part of the project. Its not that it so nuch cjhallenges your ability. I was more challenged by the cost of the really good parts. Having to buy some stuff twice because the first one just wasnt good enuf,etc. It is also a test for patiance too for those same reasons. Im am by no means trying to talk you out of doing this project,its the coolest ever built ! I do wish sometimes that people would have warned be better about this stuff, but then again I still would have built it so whatever. Ask lots of question and have fun with the build!!
I called Rick at Stinger fiberglass today and asked him if they have had any complaints of the wing bowing, he told me he has not had any complaints he gave me the name of a guy in North Carolina a Buddy Cram? He said he builds Daytonas and Superbirds with their kit, The guy told me exactly what they had done to their "Joe Dirt" Daytona telling me how they used the 74-78 Vega hatch and that he had templates where it needs to go in at and had templates for the wing position, (etc. etc.) he sounded like he knew what he was talking about and said they had built several I asked about the Z brackets and he said they make them differently from the Daytona and Superbird kits for the 69 Valiant turn signals like originals had. He is going to give me this "Buddy Cram's" phone number and I am going to ask him what he thinks of the kits, anything is possible. Might be utter shit and it might be nice but from the looks of my AMD full quarters I am not going to get my hopes up too high on anything anymore on this car :lol: Granted if I had the extra outlay of cash I would probably buy a wing from Dane they look super nice but I am a cheap son of a gun and have made a lot of stuff work and look great over the years! :icon_smile_big:
Quote from: Indygenerallee on March 05, 2012, 05:03:25 PM
I called Rick at Stinger fiberglass today and asked him if they have had any complaints of the wing bowing, he told me he has not had any complaints he gave me the name of a guy in North Carolina a Buddy Cram? He said he builds Daytonas and Superbirds with their kit, The guy told me exactly what they had done to their "Joe Dirt" Daytona telling me how they used the 74-78 Vega hatch and that he had templates where it needs to go in at and had templates for the wing position, (etc. etc.) he sounded like he knew what he was talking about and said they had built several I asked about the Z brackets and he said they make them differently from the Daytona and Superbird kits for the 69 Valiant turn signals like originals had. He is going to give me this "Buddy Cram's" phone number and I am going to ask him what he thinks of the kits, anything is possible. Might be utter shit and it might be nice but from the looks of my AMD full quarters I am not going to get my hopes up too high on anything anymore on this car :lol: Granted if I had the extra outlay of cash I would probably buy a wing from Dane they look super nice but I am a cheap son of a gun and have made a lot of stuff work and look great over the years! :icon_smile_big:
if you get the stinger wing, and they look good, but you will have over time flexing or sagging of the wing. When you get it slice a long gap the length of the center piece at the thickest point and slide a tempered flat piece of steel .1" in and then glass it in.
Dane
Dane, I was thinking along that route in case it is bowed. Thanks
Quote from: Indygenerallee on March 06, 2012, 07:55:38 AM
Dane, I was thinking along that route in case it is bowed. Thanks
save your self the time , buy danes (AWESOME) aluminum wing and they you can do cool stuff like this
Well I pulled the trigger today and ordered the complete Stinger Daytona kit, $2500 including shipping. I bought a nice 70 passenger side fender off Ebay last night for $325.00 shipped. I have been doing searches on all your builds and I have learned a ton! Looks like in 3 weeks I should be getting my Daytona kit!! I did have a couple quick questions can I use the 69 Charger hood latch? or do I need a 70? for some reason a 70 B-body hood latch looks identical to a 70 E-body hood latch!? and is there anything else 70 specific I would need that pertains to the front clip (my 69 was complete so I have everything 69) Just trying to pin down the small stuff, I have a ad up over on A-bodies only for the 69 Valiant turn signals. Anybody have pics of a Daytona with 17x8 Chrome Torque thrusts?? ;D I happened to see a nice set and thought Hmmmm!! my cousin has a set on his 70 440 Cuda and they look NICE!!!
Do not use the stinger wing. It is one of the worst wings I've ever seen. If Dane can't build you an aluminum one then I highly suggest using the Janek wing. Janek's wing has aluminum inserts and it is extremely nice. Won't sag.
As far as I'm concerned, there aren't many of the stinger parts that I would put on one of my cars. I've had a couple of friends that ended up cutting their Stinger noses just to get them to fit to the fenders and the hood. They also had to move the z-brace mounts.
I would use as many of Dayclona's parts as possible. Everything he has made for me was absolutely top notch and fit perfectly.
The headlamp bucket parts have to dead on to fit and operate properly. The nose has to be the exact dimensions or it won't align to the fenders or to the z-braces.
Use as many steel parts where applicable as possible. Don't use fiberglass scoops. You need to use the Dayclona versions.
If Mike at Dayclona can't build you a nose, my second choice would be a Janek. He can make the nose to fit your fenders.
The number one reason that guys give up on their wingcar projects is beause they tried to save a few bucks and bought parts that were total junk and didn't fit properly.
I ended up buying two sets of parts myself and ended up spending more money than if I had just bit the bullet and bought the good stuff to begin with.
Quote from: hotrod98 on March 06, 2012, 03:14:14 PM
Do not use the stinger wing. It is one of the worst wings I've ever seen. If Dane can't build you an aluminum one then I highly suggest using the Janek wing. Janek's wing has aluminum inserts and it is extremely nice. Won't sag.
As far as I'm concerned, there aren't many of the stinger parts that I would put on one of my cars. I've had a couple of friends that ended up cutting their Stinger noses just to get them to fit to the fenders and the hood. They also had to move the z-brace mounts.
I would use as many of Dayclona's parts as possible. Everything he has made for me was absolutely top notch and fit perfectly.
The headlamp bucket parts have to dead on to fit and operate properly. The nose has to be the exact dimensions or it won't align to the fenders or to the z-braces.
Use as many steel parts where applicable as possible. Don't use fiberglass scoops. You need to use the Dayclona versions.
If Mike at Dayclona can't build you a nose, my second choice would be a Janek. He can make the nose to fit your fenders.
The number one reason that guys give up on their wingcar projects is beause they tried to save a few bucks and bought parts that were total junk and didn't fit properly.
I ended up buying two sets of parts myself and ended up spending more money than if I had just bit the bullet and bought the good stuff to begin with.
what are mikes scoops made of ?????
Hotrod, I guess you can't teach a old dog new tricks! :smilielol: Im cheap I am kinda on a budget and I have seen the pics of Daytonalo modifying the Daytona nosecone, I dunno call me optomistic!? :lol: I get where your coming from seriously and if I had loads of cash to throw at it like its a top notch Vegas call girl I would, But I don't, granted if the wing turns out to be a complete and utter turd and I can't "fix it" I will leave it on there until I can save some cash and buy a wing from Dane as his wings are top notch from what I have seen! I still have to assemble the back half of my car for cryin' out loud!! I am trying to do this as cheaply as possible without it looking like a disgrace. Maybe if the wing does not work out I can just break out the router and some plywood!? :smilielol:
QuoteI was the first guy to realize that the 3rd gen dutchman had a similar curvature to the original Daytonas. I had a steel closeout panel and I laid it on the deck lid of a 74 Charger that I had. I was surprised at how similar the curvature was.
Hotrod your my hero :nana:
but it does work well i had water in the daytona trunk and i figured it was the trunk lid. i was wrong that worked well. it was the gas cap and ring . no gaskets .
stinger nose works well . specially for the money . the headlight doors needed help but not to bad. the wing sucks. 1 piece and the mounting studs are totally different from the originals .
Rene, If you say that the Stinger nose works, I believe you.
I do understand keeping cost down. That's exactly how my project started. I'm just trying to keep others from repeating my mistakes. If I built another wingcar today and couldn't afford the good stuff, I wouldn't even start. Just sayin...lol
I have one more Daytona clone to finish for Howie and then I'm going to finish my plum crazy 70 Challenger R/T SE, my 70 Cuda drag car and my 71 Cuda and then that's it. No more restos for me. :) Okay, I might restore my 68 runner eventually. My guys in the shop will do all of the work from now on while I go dragracing.
We're finishing a B5 blue six barrel, 4 speed Superbird right now. It's a real deal 31,000 mile car. I wonder if he would notice if I delivered him my bird instead.
QuoteI have one more Daytona clone to finish for Howie
what about little Stuarts back window on his daytona?
Quote from: Indygenerallee on March 06, 2012, 03:00:32 PM
Well I pulled the trigger today and ordered the complete Stinger Daytona kit, $2500 including shipping. I bought a nice 70 passenger side fender off Ebay last night for $325.00 shipped. I have been doing searches on all your builds and I have learned a ton! Looks like in 3 weeks I should be getting my Daytona kit!! I did have a couple quick questions can I use the 69 Charger hood latch? or do I need a 70? for some reason a 70 B-body hood latch looks identical to a 70 E-body hood latch!? and is there anything else 70 specific I would need that pertains to the front clip (my 69 was complete so I have everything 69) Just trying to pin down the small stuff, I have a ad up over on A-bodies only for the 69 Valiant turn signals. Anybody have pics of a Daytona with 17x8 Chrome Torque thrusts?? ;D I happened to see a nice set and thought Hmmmm!! my cousin has a set on his 70 440 Cuda and they look NICE!!!
I'm still amazed AMD does not make the 70 front clip. Finding a drivers fender that isn't rotten/hit,full of cheese is a challenge.
I know where one is just trying to get ahold of the guy $475.00 and it's a southern rust free piece, I can't understand what is it with the driver fender!? I have found a ton of passenger fenders but man that driver fender is kinda tricky!? musta been a magnet for damage!!! :smilielol:
Quote from: Indygenerallee on March 06, 2012, 04:07:30 PM
Hotrod, I guess you can't teach a old dog new tricks! :smilielol: Im cheap I am kinda on a budget and I have seen the pics of Daytonalo modifying the Daytona nosecone, I dunno call me optomistic!? :lol: I get where your coming from seriously and if I had loads of cash to throw at it like its a top notch Vegas call girl I would, But I don't, granted if the wing turns out to be a complete and utter turd and I can't "fix it" I will leave it on there until I can save some cash and buy a wing from Dane as his wings are top notch from what I have seen! I still have to assemble the back half of my car for cryin' out loud!! I am trying to do this as cheaply as possible without it looking like a disgrace. Maybe if the wing does not work out I can just break out the router and some plywood!? :smilielol:
You have the idea. Do what you can when you can. I would rather see one done than one sitting around for years – even if the headlight doors don't work, and there is a 318 under the hood ;) One thing you will find out, and I know from experience, because my nose is stinger, but heavily modified. Do not be afraid to build it up to match your fenders and your hood – it is the foundation that you will have to build on. Throw away the grill piece. You don't need the Z brackets, in my opinion they are a joke of sloppy engendering, but were a necessity in their time. These glass noses are light, and strong, I know because I hit a dear head on and mine survived, where a steel nose would have failed.
My wings are priced about what Janek chargers for his glass ones. I can stand on mine – and jump up and down :) My price is 1700.00 plus shipping. Takes me about two months (it is me mostly waiting on the foundry). It comes ready to sand and paint, with studs in the uprights, and alen head bolts for the horizontal. Listen, do what you can and don't get discouraged. I'm building my 11th one and having a ball – will be painting it this spring. You don't have the make the best one out there, and I can tell that you will do a great job. I was a 17 year old kid building my first Daytona (my Dad and I discovered the Vega hatch) and I worked a minimum wage job, worked under a shady tree. Never knew what a detailed engine bay was, and with color sanding could make a crappy paint job look good, after fossilizing a few bugs :) Keep it fun.
Dane
First one we built in 79
(http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/6760/dcp0602.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/571/dcp0602.jpg/)
Quote from: moparstuart on March 04, 2012, 10:40:24 AM
Quote from: 1HotDaytona on March 04, 2012, 10:33:47 AM
By the way , here is a link to my "easy" Daytona clone .......
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,59899.0.html
:drool5: :drool5: :drool5: you made it look easy anyway
Dammit, I just spend 40 minutes going through this thread again. Amazed at your work Brian!
Quote from: 1970Moparmann on March 07, 2012, 08:54:19 AM
Quote from: moparstuart on March 04, 2012, 10:40:24 AM
Quote from: 1HotDaytona on March 04, 2012, 10:33:47 AM
By the way , here is a link to my "easy" Daytona clone .......
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,59899.0.html
:drool5: :drool5: :drool5: you made it look easy anyway
Dammit, I just spend 40 minutes going through this thread again. Amazed at your work Brian!
Thanks Guys!!
Quote from: Indygenerallee on March 07, 2012, 12:30:45 AM
I know where one is just trying to get ahold of the guy $475.00 and it's a southern rust free piece, I can't understand what is it with the driver fender!? I have found a ton of passenger fenders but man that driver fender is kinda tricky!? musta been a magnet for damage!!! :smilielol:
In the rust belt in the east the salt is usually laid in the middle of the road. The gunk got splashed more on the drivers side IE rotting them away.
I bought a 70 drivers side was supposedly NOS stripped and primed all looked good. Once stripped I believe they sand blasted the whole thing and warped it. Beat it with a pick hammer and even made a few pinholes. $500
I'd never buy another body part in primer without seeing it in person 1st.
I don't buy "stripped and primed" parts because thats what you get someone elses quick mud job so they can make a buck, this one fender I just bought I gave $200 for plus shipping $325 total and it's coming from Iowa, it has original paint on it and he took pics of the backside of dogleg and it looks good not all ate out, I saw some old pull holes with mud coming through them (about 10 vertical by the rear inside support) no biggie, the whole car will have filler on it, assemble panels, adjust, filler over entire car and block the living crap out of it to get all the lines arrow straight.
Anybody ever ran a "Nascar" style nose ala no headlight doors? Since Stinger will make me nosecone with or without headlight bucket openings I was thinking it might be kinda cool to have some H.I.D. lights mounted into a Valiant turn signal housing (if they will fit) and then mount a couple amber LED lights beside it for the turn signals!? That way I get a more Nascar looking Daytona, I noticed the Nascar Daytona's also had a cool aluminum scoop under the nose for more air, I really like the way it looks as well! Might have to call Rick at Stinger back in the morning to see if he can change it.
it might be interesting that way. lots less moving parts to deal with. have you seen pic's or something for the lights?
I had thought about using a HID system 9004 bulbs in a small housing about the same size as the 69 Valiant turn signals, could probably modify a valiant housing and then use a small LED cluster right beside it I have seen several motorcycle LED turn signal markers on Ebay they are very thin most are only about 1 inch wide and 3 inches long, and they are clear when off. I think it would work out very well and as much as I plan on driving at night and I kinda like the Nascar looking no headlight bucket nosecone better! I have been really digging the side exhaust on the Nascar versions as well!!! There is a video on Youtube of a EV2 Daytona with black wing and it looks tubbed has steel painted wheels and just looks badass shows it pulling out onto a road sounds pretty healthy too! I will have to see if I can post a link to it.
Here is the video I love the stance of this Daytona wheels look good, I like side exhaust but I think this one might stick out too far!? looks bad! :coolgleamA: http://youtu.be/Yo-LsbEDbZE
Quote from: Indygenerallee on March 09, 2012, 04:10:23 PM
Here is the video I love the stance of this Daytona wheels look good, I like side exhaust but I think this one might stick out too far!? looks bad! :coolgleamA: http://youtu.be/Yo-LsbEDbZE
that cars bad ass !!!!!!!!!!! :drool5: :drool5: :drool5: :drool5:
Anybody have a Vega hatch for sale? This guy I have been talking to in Texas is dragging his feet and does not seemed too motivated to sell me the hatch he has.
yep, thats pretty wicked. and sounds great. tubbed pretty good. nice find. :2thumbs:
Anybody have a template of the side profile of a Daytona/500 trunk hinge? I would pay someone a little something for them as well! I need to get these made as soon as possible.
Nice car for sure . sounds wicked
Quote from: Indygenerallee on March 09, 2012, 09:49:24 PM
Anybody have a template of the side profile of a Daytona/500 trunk hinge? I would pay someone a little something for them as well! I need to get these made as soon as possible.
I may have a template here at my shop or it may be at Howies shop. It was made from an original hinge from Howie's 500 and is on clear acetate.
I'll look and see if I have it.
I bought a tubing bender to make them and just never got around to it. The Heck Industries bender works great for bending the hinges. It has the correct square dies. You cannot make them using the original thick tubing though. The bender isn't strong enough. I think you use .062 wall instead of the .120 wall that the originals are made from. I don't have a set here to measure.
I'll be in the shop tomorrow installing a set of rear springs on a runner. I'll look for the template.
Hotrod, Thanks like I said I can throw a few bucks your way if you can get me a template!!! I had placed a WTB ad for a Vega hatch last week and had a guy call me around 4pm tonight said it was a 77 hatch and said I could have it for $100.00 bout a 3 hour round trip drive and I have my hatch!! In great shape the trim was really nice no dings and glass was nice, I went ahead and took the trim off and pulled the glass and bodysawed the rear lip off the hatch and that was about all I got to tonight. I was going to see if you guy's removed your entire understructure or left the inside panel pinchweld section on? I was thinking about cutting right up next to the inside pichweld that way it is still double sheetmetal on that pinchweld area and gives more strength. I was going to use my grinder on the edges all the way around it to free the rest of the inner skin after I cut inside around the pinchweld. I sat it on the back of the Charger and it looks like there is not much left of the hatch right next to the sail panels maybe only 1/2" going to have to do some trimming. Thanks to Rene I have a hood coming and have just have to buy a driver fender but have one lined up! I need to get a 3rd gen dutchman panel still trying to find one.
i left as much of the inner structure as i could for strength . plus you have to convert your trunk lid first so you know where the dutchman panel goes . remember there is a space between the hatch and the roof of the car that you have to weld in a piece of metal . :cheers:
Rene, yeah I know I have to do the trunklid first that's why I am needing to make my trunk lid hinges bad! I have my trunk lid all marked out where it needs cut and then fold the front lip over, still need to order the closeout panel and modify the trunk hinge mounting point.
I alter the deck lid last. I break the back edge of the vega plug and lap it down into the drip trough. Much less body work that way and is much stronger. I make a bending template using 3/4" angle iron. I cut multiple slots in the angle iron, bow it to match the opening and spotweld the cuts back together to hold it. I make two. Then I clamp them in place and use a large face body hammer and slowly make my lip. Once the vega plug is mated to the dutchman then I have my measurement for making the front lip on the deck lid. Theres more than one way to skin a cat. (or a vega plug)
Here's a pic showing the final placement of the plug before welding it. I made some cuts near the lower corners of the glass opening to relieve the pressure. I used an english wheel to get the panel to lay down against the dutchman. You shouldn't have to pull it down into place. In the pic, you can see where I overlapped the plug down into the trunk opening. If you alter the deck lid first that lip is going to make the gap way too tight.
The second pic was taken in February of 2006. It was when I first noticed the similarity of the curvature between the closeout panel and a third gen dutchman.
I guess you've noticed that the sail panels will need to be slitted from top to bottom for the plug to sit down into the opening.
Another pic showing how I made the entire vega plug fit without any major cutting. The only part of the dutchman that shows is the actual drip trough itself when the plug is installed correctly. Well, correctly in my opinion ;D
This is that car after completion. The body lines are all consistent.
Thanks for the pics Hotrod! I cut the holy heck out of this vega hatch took it completey down to the outer skin still very rigid so I think I will be good since the outer edges are so close to the sail panels anyway, and I am going to weld the teeth onto the sides and top after I have it media blasted. Hotrod, did you happen to find the hinge template? Thanks!
ya know you have to strap your frame :cheers:
??
if ya don't strap your frame the flex from the uni body might form cracks on the plug bodywork . seen it happen with fiberglass and vega plugs . this link shows what to do :cheers:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,73949.0.html
QuoteI alter the deck lid last. I break the back edge of the vega plug and lap it down into the drip trough. Much less body work that way and is much stronger. I make a bending template using 3/4" angle iron. I cut multiple slots in the angle iron, bow it to match the opening and spotweld the cuts back together to hold it. I make two. Then I clamp them in place and use a large face body hammer and slowly make my lip. Once the vega plug is mated to the dutchman then I have my measurement for making the front lip on the deck lid. Theres more than one way to skin a cat. (or a vega plug)
Here's a pic showing the final placement of the plug before welding it. I made some cuts near the lower corners of the glass opening to relieve the pressure. I used an english wheel to get the panel to lay down against the dutchman. You shouldn't have to pull it down into place. In the pic, you can see where I overlapped the plug down into the trunk opening. If you alter the deck lid first that lip is going to make the gap way too tight.
The second pic was taken in February of 2006. It was when I first noticed the similarity of the curvature between the closeout panel and a third gen dutchman.
I guess you've noticed that the sail panels will need to be slitted from top to bottom for the plug to sit down into the opening.
your still my hero , what happens when it rains and i cant work on my car
Ok subframe connectors!!! Yeah Rene I have a nice US cartool set I picked up about 2 months ago! SUPER NICE! still have to install them I will tack them in before the car goes back onto the rotiserre and then fully weld them in! Hotrod, I was going to say my Vega plug sat rat in between the sail panels, I don't know the exact gap it is supposed to have but it was slid almost all the way up until it wedged in good (probably 1" between roof and hatch?) looks like it should be further down though to me, I saw those slices you made and that makes a ton of sense cause it did not want to lay out right and I was going to run it through the english wheel and put a gentle slope on it, I was looking for a 3rd gen dutchman panel but I had been thinking about making one like you said probably in all reality be easier in the long run, also this may sound like a stupid question but what is the best way to get the curve cut on the trunklid? I was thinking of making a template from one side to the middle with the appropriate slope and then flip it and trace it on the other side?
I found a complete 2006 5.7 Hemi 25,000 mile complete with PCM and wiring harness sounds awful damn tempting at $900.00!!! Might have to buy it and make it a "Hemi" Daytona clone!!!
Here are some pics of the Vega plug, I cut under the window as Hotrod did on his and man it laid right down!! nice! fits great I am very happy with the fit! I was looking at my original headliner teeth and looking about modifying the upper piece since it is curved, I think I will make some pie cuts along the backside so I can straighten it out then weld them to the plug. Here are a couple pics of the plug duct taped in!! :lol: http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6976428931/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6830305338/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6830300996/
Quote from: Indygenerallee on March 12, 2012, 11:30:39 AM
Here are some pics of the Vega plug, I cut under the window as Hotrod did on his and man it laid right down!! nice! fits great I am very happy with the fit! I was looking at my original headliner teeth and looking about modifying the upper piece since it is curved, I think I will make some pie cuts along the backside so I can straighten it out then weld them to the plug. Here are a couple pics of the plug duct taped in!! :lol: http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6976428931/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6830305338/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6830300996/
nice :drool5: :drool5: :drool5: :drool5: :drool5:
I talked to a guy at Stinger and asked him about them sending me the nosecone with the headlight doors not being cut and he said they have a little groove where the headlights need cut out he said I could always cut it out if I wanted to but I think I will leave the nosecone solid and do small HID lights where the stock Daytona turn signals go with the LED lights beside them.
You will save many hours and many dollars by not making the headlamps functional. I think it's worth it.
Even if you made them functional, there's no guarantee that they will stay functional.
I couldn't find the hinge template. I'll call Howie and see if I gave it back to him.
Yeah Hotrod, I really don't even plan on driving at night anyway don't feel like bouncing a coon off the nose!!! :lol: Who did you buy your closeout panel from? did you make it? I found a Gene Gregory's number I have not tried calling him yet to even see if he still makes them the post was from around 2007 so I am not sure I need to call. And I really appreciate you working on the template! I was planning on picking up some tube stock tomorrow that way when I get the template I can start working on them immediately.
I found the hinge template. It was in the front shop. I'll make you a copy.
P.M. me your address.
On a side note, last Friday I sold all of the 69 Charger parts that I removed from my car when I built my Daytona clone. For four years I looked for an incomplete 69 to use the parts on.
Well, a guy called me earlier tonight with a nice 69 Charger project for sale that needs the parts that I sold Friday. Life sucks :icon_smile_big:
Last I heard Gene was very ill. Hope he's doing better. He has given me different numbers at different times as to how many deck lid closeout panels that he had left. One time he told me ten and the next time he said a hundred. And, just last year someone told me that they were all gone. I know his dies were accidentaly scrapped a few years ago so he won't be making more. I checked on having the dies made by a local shop and it was ten grand or more. And, they weren't even sure how many I would get from the dies before they were useless. Possibly a hundred or less.
I think I have one stored here that belongs to Stuart. Maybe he will sell it. Don't bet on it though. The last steel one that I had I sold for three hundred. Kinda wish I hadn't sold it.
The part is more cosmetic than structural. You can attach a fiberglass one using panel bond adhesive and it will work fine. Most people will never notice.
Hotrod, Sucks on the 69 Charger! And on the closeout panel it really does not bother me if I get a steel or fiberglass piece just would kinda rather have the steel one, may just make one if I can't find one! I have used plenty of fusor good stuff I used it several times when putting in tailight and tailgate handle filler pieces on bagged trucks, have done a couple bedsides with it as well. I will PM you my address. Thanks!!
Quote from: hotrod98 on March 14, 2012, 01:10:18 AM
Last I heard Gene was very ill. Hope he's doing better. He has given me different numbers at different times as to how many deck lid closeout panels that he had left. One time he told me ten and the next time he said a hundred. And, just last year someone told me that they were all gone. I know his dies were accidentaly scrapped a few years ago so he won't be making more. I checked on having the dies made by a local shop and it was ten grand or more. And, they weren't even sure how many I would get from the dies before they were useless. Possibly a hundred or less.
I think I have one stored here that belongs to Stuart. Maybe he will sell it. Don't bet on it though. The last steel one that I had I sold for three hundred. Kinda wish I hadn't sold it.
The part is more cosmetic than structural. You can attach a fiberglass one using panel bond adhesive and it will work fine. Most people will never notice.
there you go trying to sell my parts off again :D :D :D
Gene is doing fine healthwise. We just got one of his closeout panel a couple months ago, so that shoulnt be a problem. His number: 618 488 7951
Quote from: 1HotDaytona on March 14, 2012, 11:37:48 AM
Gene is doing fine healthwise. We just got one of his closeout panel a couple months ago, so that shoulnt be a problem. His number: 618 488 7951
stans car ??? :shruggy: :shruggy:
Quote from: moparstuart on March 14, 2012, 11:38:30 AM
Quote from: 1HotDaytona on March 14, 2012, 11:37:48 AM
Gene is doing fine healthwise. We just got one of his closeout panel a couple months ago, so that shoulnt be a problem. His number: 618 488 7951
stans car ??? :shruggy: :shruggy:
Yes.
Thanks, I will have to give him a call. Just went and picked up my complete 2005 5.7 Hemi and 545RFE transmission today for $1100.00!!! The guy lost his job and was hard up for cash he gave me the receipt what he paid for it 11-2009 $3750.00!!! Need to get a line on some folks that have done a 5.7 Conversion I think the trans tunnel and torsion bar crossmember needs to be modified to fit the 5 speed automatic, gotta do some research!!! :icon_smile_big:
I have a 5.7 that I bought that was pulled from a 2005 truck. From the looks of the transmission, it would require raising the floor substantially and radically altering the t bar x mbr. A few years ago, I installed a 5.9 with an A518 trans into my wife's Cuda and I had to alter the t bar x mber and beat the floor in on the driver's side as well as make a new trans mount. The A518 is much smaller than the 545RFE. I plan to use my 5.7 in my shaker hood 71 Cuda and will just use an A518 with a 3.55 rear. Much less work for me.
Street and performance has the mounts that you will need, Tony Squire has the wiring harness if you don't use the stock harness, I think Milodon makes a pan and TTI makes the best headers for the swap. Seems like it was going to cost me two grand to install the 5.7 in my Cuda.
If your 5.7 is the car version, you can buy the 392 coil covers and they will fit right on. Rebadge makes inserts to replace the 392 inserts that read 5.7 Hemi or 5.7 345 HP or just about anything you want.
I bought a set to see if I can use them on my 5.7 truck motor. Might end up using them on my 09 Challenger instead.
The 5.7 came out of a 05 Rumblebee (supposedly) I have a Mildon oil pan on its way with a set of TTI engine mounts, I have to replace front floor pans anyway (have a couple tiny holes and thin) I knew the tunnel and torsion bar crossmember had to be modified for the 545rfe so when I do the front pans I will modify it then. here are the pics of the engine and trans. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6983101515/" title="100_0949 by indygenerallee1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7178/6983101515_4cdb6a9314.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="100_0949"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6836975352/" title="100_0952 by indygenerallee1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6836977040/" title="100_0950 by indygenerallee1, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7197/6836977040_320ea520cd.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="100_0950"></a>.staticflickr.com/7051/6836975352_732691aa40.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="100_0952"></a>
There's a lot of difference between the truck version and the car version. The throttle body on the car version is at the front. I want to use my shaker setup on my 5.7 so it's going to be interesting to see how I'm going to do that with the throttle body at the back. I don't want to cut up my perfect original shaker setup.
I had originally bought this 5.7 to go into my wife's Superbird clone but we found a real deal bird so we abandoned the bird clone project. I'm thinking seriously about building a bad to the bone Daytona clone with modern drivetrain. Possibly a 6.4 hemi. If I build it I'll sell my real bird to someone that will drive it.
I don't drive the bird much except to WalMart and McDonalds. :eyes:
Yeah I found out the truck Hemi is actually the easier one to adapt to the car. I plan on tearing the bottom apart and checking all rod main clearances and use all ARP rod and main bolts and I am going to put a nice cam into it and will upgrade to a 6.1 Intake. I was just told about the Hotwireauto.com wiring harness fully setup ($995.00) plug and play and they can reprogram the PCM for $250.00 So I will most likely go that route to keep headaches at a minimum!! I think with the 5 speed I will run a 4.10 gear and it will be a real street machine!! and still be able to cruise the highway nicely!! I think number one will be the MPG and reliability!!
Tony Squire is the owner of Hotwireauto. They're about an hour and a half south of here. His stuff is nice. He's the guy that has the Charger that I'm going to go look at.
I need another set of the GL rims for a car that we're going to build. Know of any nice ones that can be bought without taking out a second mortgage?
Can you use the 6.1 intake without changing the heads?
I have a set of 14x7 4.5" bolt pattern vectors with newer tires and new center caps with lug nuts I have a guy coming to buy them tomorrow along with my AMD 69 Fenders, I have been talking to Chris over there and I am sending them my PCM Monday and ordering a harness from them as well Monday I mulled it over and figured I could make one with my harness but I said screw it I don't need anymore headaches!!! :lol: I am going to run a Diablosport INtune on it. I was told you can run the 6.1 Intake on the 5.7 but you need the car front timing cover and accesories. I am pretty excited to see what MPG a Daytona will get with a 5.7 Hemi and a MPG tune!!! with the Aero I have a gut feeling I will be looking at 29-31 mpg!!!
I was alway told u need 6.1 heads to make thr intake work
Very well could Stuart I was just told by a guy I am kinda new to the 5.7 & 6.1 :icon_smile_big:
My wife's 73 Cuda with the 1995 5.9L EFI and A518 tranny with a 3.55 rear and the stock computer gets 29 mpg on the interstate with the cruise control set on 70. You should see that easy with a 5.7 if you use a stock computer.
Hotrod, that's good to know I was wanting to run a 4.10 gear with the 5 speed I think it would be a all street machine and still get great mpg! Heck with the Aero it might come close to putting up some really great mpg numbers!! over 30!???? would definately be awesome!
Your trunk hinge template went out in the mail today.
Thanks a bunch!!! :2thumbs:
Larry,Thanks for the trunk hinge template just got it in today!! Now to get some tubing!! Also what was the spec on the piece of channel that has the nuts welded to it that is welded into the decklid, I saw the hinges are slotted for adjustment. Just trying to get these pieces all lined out! :2thumbs:
Just talked to Gene today so I have one of his closeout panels coming!
How much are they now? I might buy another one to stash in case I ever need it.
$300 plus shipping ($330 shipped to Indiana)
Well I just got my Stinger Daytona kit in today at 4:00!!!! Unpacked everything and everything was there and in good shape nothing was cracked or broke! (It came UPS as well!!! Suprise, suprise!!) I was kind of suprised as it came with the wing washers and they were not listed in the parts included!? Looks like the nuts in the wing are in a straight line and not offset like the originals but I can live with that, I was kind of disappointed the nosecone headlight holes were left uncut as I wanted but there is a major recess where the headlight buckets rest (bout 3/4 inch down from surface of nose cone, the headlight mounts, buckets are not as flimsy as I figured they would be, the nosecone spoiler is pretty thin but I am going to run a custom lazercut aluminum "Nascar" styled piece. I am still waiting on my closeout panel from Gene, Did order a AMD 71-74 B-body dutchman panel and have my original hinges I had rebuilt on their way back so I can mount the doors and start lining up the full quarters to start welding everything together!! I will post some pics tomorrow!!
Looking forward to the pics. I've been busy mounting the nose on a six pack B5 blue bird today. Kind of fun working on wingcars...
Sweet! Hotrod I did have a favor to ask of you!! :icon_smile_big: could you measure from the front window opening edge to the back window leading edge?? Rick at Stinger had a diagram and it said 69" but I think he might have been including the trim as well, also it stated cutting the sail panels and slipping the vega hatch into the quarters? I thought it just laid on top? mine lays right down and fits good on top? Is there a drawback? only thing I could see is roofline might not matchup? Any more pics from the Vega hatch gurus! :icon_smile_big:
this may help...
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,63115.0.html (http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,63115.0.html)
Thanks Rich!! I bookmarked it!!! :2thumbs:
If you left the inner frame of the vega plug for strength, you should have had to slit the sail panels for the plug to fit down flush. If you set the plug in and move it back and forth in the opening, you will find a place where the transition off of the roof looks right. I lay a three foot long aluminum ruler flat on top of the roof and bow it down over the plug to check the transition. It might vary from car to car. There really is no correct location. Just place it where it looks best.
Oh I skinned the thing completely! :lol: after I did it I said wtf did I just do this is loose as a goose! But when I sat it on top of the sail panels the sail panels were so close to the vega pinchweld it seems really rigid so I don't think I will have a problem with it, Good idea on the ruler!! (http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7113/7048923265_4e3517488d.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7048923265/)
100_1049 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7048923265/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
I had a sheet of 14 ga. sheetmetal so I decided to use these fiberglass Z brackets that came with the Stinger kit to make a set of steel ones!! I broke the fiberglass ones and stacked 4 cinder blocks on top to trace the outline on the 14 ga. grabbed the ol' sawzall and cut the passenger side one out first, I don't have a sheetmetal brake so I used a stack of cinder blocks and measured out each bend and I have only done the passenger side so far (only took one hour to make it!!) fits in the nosecone perfect I take it on the metal nosecones they were flanged on the inside for these to bolt to? I was going to glass on a set of supports on the bottom and top of the cone and then bolt it to the end of the headlight buckets ( I think thats the way original Daytona was!) I will weld a re-inforcement lip around the perimiter of the steel brace to strengthen it even further. here are some pics! (http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5444/7057755695_0e86614c47.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7057755695/)
100_1097 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7057755695/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr (http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7080/6911671690_a89cf66d54.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6911671690/)
100_1098 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6911671690/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr (http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7100/6911668520_041d0ae2c0.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6911668520/)
100_1100 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6911668520/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
Looks great, what did you get for fenders ?
I have a lead on a set of 70 fenders out in California that are not rotted or banged up for $750 just getting them here to Indiana in one piece!! hopefully they can send them Greyhound. This other passenger side 70 fender that I bought on Ebay over a month ago I still have not received and it was coming from Iowa and the guy swears up and down he sent it Greyhound a couple days after I bought it, but I think he is yanking my chain as I had a General Lee roll bar shipped from Louisiana and it came Greyhound and came in a week!!
Well I made the driver side Z brace after I got back from the mother in-laws Easter get together this evening. I am happy with both of them! Now to start making the metal headlight bucket pivots I had a question on the headlight buckets, were the original buckets riveted into the nose or bolted to the Z bracesor both? I was thinking of bolting the fiberglass headlight buckets (they are pretty stout compared to the Z brackets and headlight pivots) and then when I bolt the Z braces into the nose and get the fitment right glass the buckets into the nose that way i can unbolt Z braces and install the headlight pivots, I will probably run a electric motor saw a couple cars in different threads with neat setups.
I found a color scheme I really like on a toy Daytona no less!! :lol: I really like black and the silver wing/stripe looks great and I have always like the 70 Charger hood callouts so I might run those big HEMI decals in silver! I think the Daytonas should have had those on them from the factory since the Nascar versions had the 426 cu. in. on the hoods. (http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7082/6913453596_21982cdff3.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6913453596/)
blackdaytonacar (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6913453596/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
Played around a little after the customers came and picked up cars tonight! I sat the Z brackets inside the nosecone and to just see how far away the nose is to coming to these 69 fenders I sat it back in front of it to get a feel for it, I also made a template of the side of the Daytona valance panel and taped it to the lower bodyline and it looks good to me. I have finally decided to modify these fenders as all the good 70 fenders I find they are either trash or so far away and nobody wants to ship so I am going to make a filler panel for the bumper indention area and box in the front of the fender and add a sloped plate to the top edge, on the front leading edge I was going to box the leading edge in (say 1" wide all the way around where it contacts nosecone) and weld nuts behind the leading edge that way I can put at least 2 bolts per side horizontal bolting the nosecone to the fenders. Here are some pics! (http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7185/6919891218_b47dafc857.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6919891218/)
100_1105 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6919891218/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7116/6919890372_173734eb38.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6919890372/)
100_1104 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6919890372/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7056/6919889616_2763eb223a.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6919889616/)
100_1103 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6919889616/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
That front edge line of the fender needs to be perfectly vertical on a level stance. Can't wait to see this mod to the fenders. Also, your 70 hood will give you guidance.
Dane
[quote I have finally decided to modify these fenders as all the good 70 fenders I find they are either trash or so far away and nobody wants to ship
[/quote]
WS Racing in Ohio makes fiberglass bolt on 70 Charger fenders, as does Stinger Fiberglass.......I have several pairs of used and NOS 70 Charger/Daytona fenders, I have one pair of 70 Charger fenders that I bought off one of my customer's whose Daytona project took a turn mid project, I'd be willing to part with these,... both fenders have been converted in the valance area, rather nicley too, but the side marker lights are still there (open) if you want to run 70 side markers, the passenger fender is NOS, that's been converted in the valance area also, they are clean, dent free, in primer, the drivers side has had a lower patch installed in the rocker area, but they are basically primer/paint ready, no body work needed, other than blocking,...$750 plus shipping takes them,...I'd estimate truck freight at $250-$350 minimum to Indiana
Mike
Quote$750 plus shipping takes them,...I'd estimate truck freight at $250-$350 minimum to Indiana
I'd use 70 fenders before modifying the 69 ones . it's just a lot more correct . :Twocents:
I would go with those from Mike, I almost went with them when I built mine until I found some fairly close by.
Well, I appreciate all the leads but I got a bug up my ass this afternoon and the bodysaw was calling my name :D, (http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5457/7068807583_8e20c322af.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7068807583/)
100_1107 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7068807583/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7066/6922729730_60f31238d1.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6922729730/)
100_1108 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6922729730/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
A sawsall is a deadly weapon in some hands :smilielol: :smilielol: :smilielol:
bodysaw, not sawzall there is a difference! :icon_smile_big:
The word "saw" pretty much says somethings getting ready to be cut up. :icon_smile_big:
I toyed with the same idea but found a set of 70 fenders just in the nick of time. A friend of mine has a 70 front clip that he would trade for a complete 69 front clip.
One is bigger one is smaller! :lol: Yeah I made several slits and left about a 1" overhang to bolt the valance panel to, I am going to cut the bottom off the driver fender tomorrow, make the filler plates for the bumper indention and stock side marker, need to get some C channel to attach the Z brackets to the body so I can mount the nose and get it closer but still need the hood to get the exact line up to mod the fender edge. One question I sat the latch tray on top of the Z brackets and I had thought it bolted to the top of the core support but found it was short! Got looking at a few pics and it looks as if there is another piece that is bolted or welded? to the core support then the latch tray bolts to it, Anybody have a decent pic of one looks to me the best I can see it's basically a piece of angle.
Well I managed to get the sidemarker filler plates cut out (used the lower portion of the new fender!) finished modifying the driver side lower fender, clamped the lower valance to the fenders to get a good look and fitment looks like it is going to be great. sat the nose in front with the Z brackets and latch tray (trying to figure out if the latch tray goes under the nose or on top?) finished up the template for the 69 bumper indention, looks like it is going to work just fine, only thing left to do is make the top fender to nosecone filler but have to wait until the hood gets here to line it up. (http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7116/7071401641_19c2c28c84.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7071401641/)
100_1112 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7071401641/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7237/6925322768_56f2f811d6.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6925322768/)
100_1111 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6925322768/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7248/7071399479_30f18e7285.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7071399479/)
100_1114 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7071399479/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5325/6925320778_db591a3a18.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6925320778/)
100_1116 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6925320778/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5454/7071394663_73b2bd02db.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7071394663/)
100_1117 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7071394663/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7126/6925318908_e95b13a76b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6925318908/)
100_1113 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6925318908/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5120/7071397613_fd8ef6871b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7071397613/)
100_1119 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7071397613/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5240/6925317908_0112f3f31b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6925317908/)
100_1118 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6925317908/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
:cheers:
hey
the latch tray bolts to a bracket that gets welded to the radiator support . that you have to make .
the end of the latch tray also bolts to the top of the z brackets . that's why the z brackets are boxed :cheers:
Rene, You rock buddy! Thanks!! :cheers:
Do you have the frame braces and the lower valance bracket? I still have a couple of sets left. The set includes the two frame braces, the valance bracket and the latch tray support.
Larry, You got pics? I am kind of in the dark on those pieces. unless the frame braces bolt the Z brackets to the stock bumper bracket location? :shruggy:
Quoteunless the frame braces bolt the Z brackets to the stock bumper bracket location? shruggy
yep
Rene, where does the lower valance bracket go? looks like the valance bolts to the core support at the rear does it go in between the Z brackets towards the front behind the nosecone? Thanks!
:popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn:
you can make the latch support bracket really easy it just steps it down a little , daytona one is bigger of course
Im confused about the latch tray support on Renes car. On all of the other Daytonas Ive seen The support piece is just flat steel.
Here is a link to a pic of Genos :
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,48725.msg556153.html#msg556153
1hotdaytona, I see what your saying (Thanks for the link to the pics!!)
if you look at the pic that mopar stuart put up .it's a step down bracket . kind like a messed up L.
you can see it in this picture too.
Looks to be just cut off at an angle to me.
There are variances depending on how the nose is made. The latch tray bracket that I have is based on an original but it didn't fit with my Janek nose. I had to make alterations. The frame braces bolt onto the frame where the original bumper brackets bolted on. The z braces bolt to them.
Here's a pic that I got from someone that shows the frame brackets and how everything bolts together.
Larry, You have a PM. ;)
hows your fender situation going ??
I am modifying the AMD 69 fenders there are some pics further up this page of the mods so far done, I have the lower part modified for the valance panel to fit and made the template for the bumper indention filler plate, Rene sent my 70 hood this past week so as soon as I get it I can make a template for the top leading edge of the fender. The time I will have modifying the fenders to work with the nose will be much less than reworking original rusted and dented 70 fenders.
the hood should have been there already :shruggy:
They have not called yet Rene, Usually Greyhound is slow as molasses!! I bet it takes another week!! :lol:
this is the first time i use greyhound
UPS just delivered my 5.7 Hemi TTI B body headers!!! And this is my first set of TTI headers ever and the quality of these compared to Hookers or Hedmans is outstanding!!! These are ceramic coated polished!! They have the O2 sensor bungs already welded into the collectors for the upstream sensors I will just have to weld in 2 more for the downstreams behind the high flow 3" cats.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5334/7088302965_c5596e70ee.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7088302965/)
100_1131 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7088302965/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
Quote from: Indygenerallee on April 17, 2012, 03:15:35 PM
UPS just delivered my 5.7 Hemi TTI B body headers!!! And this is my first set of TTI headers ever and the quality of these compared to Hookers or Hedmans is outstanding!!! These are ceramic coated polished!! They have the O2 sensor bungs already welded into the collectors for the upstream sensors I will just have to weld in 2 more for the downstreams behind the high flow 3" cats.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5334/7088302965_c5596e70ee.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7088302965/)
100_1131 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7088302965/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
why are ya puttin cats on ?
Im going to run small (about 6" long 3" diameter) High flow cats from Magnaflow that way the PCM sees the change before and after cat and can meter the fuel properly, alot of people think cats are very restrictive but those were the old cats from years ago, the ones I am putting on there won't hurt performance at all. I wanted to do it also for the fact if the green police ever hammer down any harder on emmisions the car will pass all emission tests in all 50 states, By the time I do the cam swap (50 horsepower right in a cam swap!) and with the OBD II plug in Diablo Intune tuner, the 5.7 Hemi will be making more horsepower than a stock HP 440 and I will probably double my MPG to boot plus the fact that it will be much more reliable, kind of nice if I want to go out for a real long cruise I could just set a fuel saver tune into the PCM or if I am out running around town wanting to send some smoke signals punch in a HP tune!! I plan on eventually getting ahold of a 6.1 Hemi on down the road after the car is built and running and replace the 5.7 with a 6.1 or better yet a 6.4!!!
...glad to see you went Daytona...the orange 01 cars are everywhere in our area
Yeah, I saw a General Lee the other day in Terre Haute and I thought to myself the same thing.
yeh ,magna flow cats work good,BUT to run a good tune on car for horse power you have to go a little on the rich side , in turn makes the cats get VERY hot,like melt things catch things on fire,smell like rotton eggs,ask me how i know,and i am not trying to sound like a know it all,but i have done a lot of efi tuning & one example 1985 monte carlo SS we built a late model efi lt1,cam headers ported heads ect 400 rear wheel hp,car had to have cats at that time to pass emisions test ,& it liked to melt shifter cables ,carpet ,& yes i put heatsheilds all around the cats,couldent wait for the car to be old enough to not have to pass emis test & get them fire hazard cats off the car,down here in texas 24 years old & older dont have to pass emis test,YEA, this is just my experience of one of allot just my :Twocents:
I will cross that bridge when I get there, I had Hotwireauto take the EGR function out of the 05 Ram PCM and the "SKIM" security function that way it never disables the fuel pump for seeing a "security" error. and I bought one of their hot rod 5.7 Hemi harnesses and it was well worth the money totally plug and go, I think I have 5 wires that have to be hooked up and it is running! I bought a 05 Ram throttle pedal (drive by wire) and the backup switch and that was the only other pieces I needed.
i have an 85 iroc 350 roller motor TPI, ported heads ,cam ect,put one of the ez efi self tuning wide band o2 system,very ez plug & play,i love it,but gotta finish puttin it back together,& put it up for sale to fund my charger project
Your smart!! Get rid of that Chevy!! I had a couple once upon a time, the only good thing about a Chevy is cheap parts!!
Finally got my decklid closeout from Gene Gregory, about a hour later I had the closeout panel sitting in place!!!
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7060/6951259040_f3a78b6802.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6951259040/)
100_1139 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6951259040/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7266/7097327875_013c07611a.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7097327875/)
100_1138 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7097327875/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7270/6951258688_6c16a9eb2e.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6951258688/)
100_1144 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6951258688/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7138/6951258436_ccc57b8ba7.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6951258436/)
100_1140 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6951258436/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
:2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
:coolgleamA: :yesnod: ............ :popcrn:
One question for all you that have done the decklid conversion or own a real Daytona. How tall is the lip that is bent over? (1/4"?) I was planning on just bending it over and using my Miller 220 spot welder and spot welding it about 6 times across the top just like Creative did. and just run a couple small beads with the mig on the "strengthening" ribs, from the pics I can find thats what it looks like Creative did.
Hotrod did mine :shruggy:
No prob Rene, I figure Larry will chime in !! :icon_smile_big: I do appreciate all the help from everyone on all my questions!! :2thumbs: Just got back from Harbor Freight I bought a tubing bender so I can bend these trunk hinges, $70.00 for a bolt to the floor model with several different dies, as long as I get both hinges made before it breaks I will be good!! :lol:
Quote from: Indygenerallee on April 21, 2012, 08:16:11 AM
One question for all you that have done the decklid conversion or own a real Daytona. How tall is the lip that is bent over? (1/4"?) I was planning on just bending it over and using my Miller 220 spot welder and spot welding it about 6 times across the top just like Creative did. and just run a couple small beads with the mig on the "strengthening" ribs, from the pics I can find thats what it looks like Creative did.
generally the folded over (90 degrees) front leading edge is 3/8" approx, for reference the "side" dimension, the length along where the rear qtr runs parallel to the trunk edge is 21 1/2", if your looking to make your lid approx the same as an original, you might consider the dimensios important, esp if your going to install a tape stripe, on an original car there can be as little as 1/2" up to 1" of decklid exposed in front of the stripe installed on the car, you make your lid to "long", or short, it may look out of porportion the moment you start appling a stripe,...the dutchman panel on a stock C500/Daytona is approx 12 1/2" wide, and generally there about 3 3/4" of metal width above the top of the window, both these dimensions are from the outer edge of the chrome window trim, IIRC the "height" of the C500/Daytona window opening is 26"....the Vega plug, IIRC is 24"...measured at the centerline
Mike
Thanks for the pics Mike! I was planning on making the decklid the same dimensions as original so that way the tail stripe looks right! Thanks!!!
Hi Mike :wave: :cheers:
You shouldn't make the deck lid identical to the original if you're using the third gen dutchman. The reinforcement ribs on the underside if the deck lid closeout will hit the ledges. Lay the closeout panel on the dutchman where it's going to sit and you'll see what I mean. I leave extra material in front of the closeout and make the lip further out. This way the weatherstrip ledge sits where it should against the underside of the deck lid. We already had Howie's deck lid done before we discovered the 3rd gen dutchman idea. We're going to make him another deck lid that sits correctly against the ledge.
Allen's was done correctly and his trunk shouldn't leak.
You can kind of see what I'm talking about when you look at your photo. The ledge where the gasket sits is all of the way under the ribs. Move that closeout away from the dutchman until the ledges align. Make sense?
Here we go. I found a pic of a deck lid that I modified to use with a 3rd gen dutchman. Notice how much more material there is between the closeout and the lip compared to Mike's pic of an orginal deck lid? Also, I think with the 3rd gen dutchman, the lip ends up being about 1/4 inch instead of 3/8 like on the originals.
Larry, I know exactly what you mean I had noticed that when I layed the closeout panel on the dutchman panel and thought to myself this thing is hitting bigtime! :lol: Thanks for the heads up!!! :2thumbs:
I wanted to point that out before you made the final cuts. :yesnod:
Sure do appreciate it Larry! :2thumbs:
Well I just picked up my 70 hood that I bought from Rene! Really happy I have it now! :icon_smile_big: once I get my brackets from Larry I can get a even better picture of how to get the fenders modded, I did make the fender bumper indention filler plate made and bent just need to make a exact copy for the driver side then to make the top fender/side/front edge made!! (http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7114/7110759987_ea99e22e68.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7110759987/)
100_1171 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7110759987/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7124/6964685534_8a97e9c55d.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6964685534/)
100_1170 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6964685534/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
very cool! :cheers: :cheers: that's the original hood from the playboy daytona
Thanks again Rene! It does have a few waves (probably from the Greyhound ride!) :lol: Nothing that can't be fixed!! plus the price was right so I can't complain!!!
Your brackets are on the way...
Quote from: BigBlockSam on April 12, 2012, 06:34:30 PM
:cheers:
I FINALLY found better pictures of the bird bracket off core support to hold the latch tray
Stuart, Thanks for those pics!! every little bit helps, I really appreciate it!! :2thumbs:
The Superbird latch tray support is different than the Daytona version. The Daytona support is flat.
QuoteI FINALLY found better pictures of the bird bracket off core support to hold the latch tray
that's exactly what mine looks like . definitely not straight
Here is a pic I have of a original Daytona latch tray setup, I wish the pic was bigger as it is kind of hard to see but to me it looks as if the piece that welds to the core support is slightly angled???
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7233/7124785071_b013cc7c08.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7124785071/)
daytdetails127 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7124785071/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
Maybe the stinger z braces require the step down bracket. Mine is flat aswell as any original Daytona Ive seem.
I made steel Z brackets and I believe Stinger made them off original Z brackets because I can see the indentions for the holes near the headlight buckets.
do what works :cheers:
Yeah, I am still awaiting my pieces from Larry so no biggie when I get them I will tackle it :icon_smile_big: :2thumbs:
I need to ask, what condition is your 72' Swinger in? Any photos?
Super nice 72 Swinger!! Just putting the finishing touches on it! Arizona car, I painted it plum crazy (painted a black tail stripe and hood blackout) twin hoodscoops, new black interior, great running 318 4bbl,727 car it will be for sale as soon as I do a final buff and polish on it! I was meaning to take some pics of it the other day, I will see if I have any on the computer here.
Here is a crappy pic I took after I painted it last fall!! I will say this it was tough finding new front and rear window gaskets!!!
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6095/6285137628_f878896355.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6285137628/)
100_0485 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6285137628/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
Ha, way cool! I had a 72' Swinger years ago I painted it the same but with a white tail stripe. 340 auto was sweet also I had in it vs the 6 shooter that once powered it. Car is up north of me now used as a drag car only now. I'm a big A-body fan as well. Thanks for the info :2thumbs:
Mark
Yeah all the sheetmetal on the car is original!! floors, trunk, rails every bit of the sheetmetal on the car looks like it did when new!! It was that nasty baby poop green color, It's not a perfect paint job but for what I have in it I can't complain and everyone that has seen it loves it!! A-bodies don't bring huge money anyway (compared to B and E bodies) It's a fun car and will make someone a heck of a nice little Dart!!
Quote from: Indygenerallee on April 29, 2012, 10:42:59 AM
Here is a pic I have of a original Daytona latch tray setup, I wish the pic was bigger as it is kind of hard to see but to me it looks as if the piece that welds to the core support is slightly angled???
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7233/7124785071_b013cc7c08.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7124785071/)
daytdetails127 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7124785071/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
The ends of the latch tray bracket are cut at an angle which gives the optical illusion that there is a break. The bracket that I sent you doesn't have the ends cut at an angle. When I had these made, I used a set that Howie loaned me for the dimensions. I think they were made by Janek. I've been just cutting the ends before welding them into place.
I have found that on some fiberglass noses, the lip is made in a way that has the latch tray mounting slightly further from the core support. With fiberglass, anything can go slightly wrong. I think in some cases, the fiberglass has shrunk slightly and in others it was molded incorrectly to begin with.
It's possible that you may have to add another piece or use this bracket as a template to make a wider piece. It really depends on how close your nose was made to an original nose. The older Janek noses had this problem but his newer ones have been corrected. Dimensionally, the correct way to solve this would be to cut and re-fiberglass the nose but it's also the most difficult.
Let me know how everything fits.
The valance bracket and the frame brackets have worked in all cases so you should be good to go on those pieces.
You should see those parts on Monday.
Larry, Thanks for the info I will post some pics once I get it mocked up!
I received the brace pieces from Larry today and they sure are nice!!! I am going to post a couple pics to see if this is the correct way they are bolted up! That lower brace is really going to re-inforce that lower valance to nose for sure!!
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7199/6982977828_18697a4c25.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6982977828/)
100_1228 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/6982977828/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8015/7129061403_33122d3e34.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7129061403/)
100_1227 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7129061403/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
Glad you got them...finally. They will make aligning everything much easier. I found some more sets if anyone else needs them. Was hoping that I could find some more wing braces since I have a couple of people looking for some. I might break down and make another batch of the wing braces.
Larry, If you make some more wing braces count me in!!
I just got my wing braces in I bought from Janek, I am glad I bought them instead of making them because I thought they were flat on both ends and now I see they are canted. Should look good with my wing when I get it from Dane!!!
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7097/7223248076_9f3245a280.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7223248076/)
100_1265 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7223248076/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7225/7223245806_0024d0bd50.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7223245806/)
100_1264 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7223245806/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
Quote from: hotrod98 on April 30, 2012, 10:23:58 PM
...I might break down and make another batch of the wing braces.
Count me in too, please! I'm
still kicking myself for missing the last batch!
QuoteShould look good with my wing when I get it from Dane!!!
:cheers: you will never regret buying Dane's wing . makes your car a better Machine . it acts just like a real wing . i like to build Machines that work not just look good. :cheers:
Quote from: Indygenerallee on May 18, 2012, 03:12:11 PM
I just got my wing braces in I bought from Janek, I am glad I bought them instead of making them because I thought they were flat on both ends and now I see they are canted. Should look good with my wing when I get it from Dane!!!
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7097/7223248076_9f3245a280.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7223248076/)
100_1265 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7223248076/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7225/7223245806_0024d0bd50.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7223245806/)
100_1264 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7223245806/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
Not being up on winged cars I am surprised that the factory didn't use the NASCAR type braces for the wings as they look easier to make than the sheet metal type.
Extra labor would have been required to fasten the race style tubes inside the wing upright. It would also create cosmetic work on the outside of the wing upright where the fasteners would be placed.
The sheet metal wing braces are much more complicated to make than they look. The dimensions have to be dead on or they wont fit together. There are stiffeners welded into the ends so there are actually ten different pieces that have to be made to make up a complete set.
BTW, you can use the daytona wing braces on a bird. I've done it before. The bottom brackets need to be bent slightly more to sit flat on the floor and bolt it in like a Daytona or you can cut the bracket off and weld it to the floor like a bird bracket. Then just add a thick washer on top to make up for the difference in quarter panel height. That's what they did on the birds.
I have not had a lot of time lately but I did a little trimming on the nose last night and got a really good gap where hood meets nosecone and I need to cut the sides of the Stinger nose and flare it out that way I get a good fender to nosecone fitment since there will be no rubber gasket.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7096/7343373050_73098c6bce.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7343373050/)
IMAG0032 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7343373050/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7078/7158167687_5b1c6cec2e.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7158167687/)
IMAG0033 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7158167687/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8023/7158166665_a2a382b975.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7158166665/)
IMAG0034 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7158166665/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
I would build up the glass to meet the fender or split the difference. The glass is thin on a nose anyway. If you do it carefully - build it up with glass or long kitty hair (do it carefully you do not want it brittle) that will help strengthen the sides anyway. This will help the sides to keep their shape. I also build the gaps all the way around to match perfectly.
I did this to my yellow Daytona nose and I got at least six years on it in hot hot summers and cold winters and my nose is perfect on the sides still. Proof is in results. My Red Daytona, I did not do this, and the sides tended to change shape throughout the year to a small degree on how it matched my fender on the sides.
Also, don't let anyone run your nose down or talk smack of the difference between polyester or vinylester fiberglass (it's mostly hype). These two different products are so, for boat and water application purposes, and not an issue of strength – in the application of a nose cone. Yes, vinylester has more cross linking molecules (not enough to make a difference for the Daytona nose. Polyester is perfect for the task, unless you want to use your nose to push gravel around, then make it even stronger and use vinylester and Kevlar :lol:. Polyester tends to draw moisture "in water" over time (more aerated) compared vinylester. This is not an issue in a prepped and painted nose, unless you plan on storing your car under water :rofl:. The strength and longevity of polyester resins is time tested. I worked at Cobra Boats in Vancouver and we still use both, with vinylester used in the outer layer for moister purposes.
Dane
Dane, Thanks for the info! Any news on the wings? :icon_smile_big:
I'm curious, you mentioned you're not going to have a gasket for the nose.
Is it more an asthetics thing, I thought the gasket helped with minor flexing when the car's on the road.
Yeah no nosecone gasket, I am doing mine more restomod/NASCAR look at Dane's yellow Daytona clone it's a beauty flush nosecone. Looks a ton better IMO, I have steel Z-Brackets I made and if that nose moves with those in there I am in trouble!! :lol: The factory could have made it without the gasket but the Daytona was basically thrown together so instead of finnese fitting it they said "Hey let's just put a big black gasket around there!" The Superbirds were more thought out.
I wish i could tell you good new, that is, that i have the castings and i am working on them now. The foundry is growing weary of doing my wings. He has got a huge rush order from the coast guard to run brass, so his whole foundry set for brass. I call him weekly.
Then he tells me that the six castings and the large forms and man hours it takes, he does not want to pour them for even the new price. He said that these last three are going to be the last wings for this price and he is going to bump my price by 300.00 a wing. This tells me he does not want me anymore.
We worked out a deal, because I made the patterns (plastic), but he owns the durable pattern that he uses to make the forms, so he makes the difference in his cost by charging me per wing extra than normal already. Well, i would have to buy his durable patterns ( they are huge with gates and risers built in), and then drive 60 miles to get a new foundry to do this, and i have no idea what they will charge me.
All this to say, these may be the last 3 wings I make for a long time if at all. For this to even be worth my time the wings will cost at least 1900.00 and he will not make them but when he has time. I told him that is terrible for my customers - he does not care. I'm just a little guy in a big pool of business he does.
So I will do what people want. He will do my wings - but I have a feeling I'm going to use up our friendship in getting these done. His Son, who is going to take over soon, does not care about my business and does not want to do these wings. I believe it will be three weeks till I get these wings. Once I get them I will work night and day to get them done and to you guys. I only have two orders, and the third is mine.
To say the least this screws me up. I'm ready to paint my car, and I can't until I get these two wings done.
If you guys want your money back I can do that, or wait a little while longer. I can't say how sorry I am . I have always taken pride in getting my wings done on short oder.
I'm stating this on the open forum, so that others know my predicament...
Dane
Quote from: Daytona Guy on June 06, 2012, 10:26:18 AM
I wish i could tell you good new, that is, that i have the castings and i am working on them now. The foundry is growing weary of doing my wings. He has got a huge rush order from the coast guard to run brass, so his whole foundry set for brass. I call him weekly.
Then he tells me that the six castings and the large forms and man hours it takes, he does not want to pour them for even the new price. He said that these last three are going to be the last wings for this price and he is going to bump my price by 300.00 a wing. This tells me he does not want me anymore.
We worked out a deal, because I made the patterns (plastic), but he owns the durable pattern that he uses to make the forms, so he makes the difference in his cost by charging me per wing extra than normal already. Well, i would have to buy his durable patterns ( they are huge with gates and risers built in), and then drive 60 miles to get a new foundry to do this, and i have no idea what they will charge me.
All this to say, these may be the last 3 wings I make for a long time if at all. For this to even be worth my time the wings will cost at least 1900.00 and he will not make them but when he has time. I told him that is terrible for my customers - he does not care. I'm just a little guy in a big pool of business he does.
So I will do what people want. He will do my wings - but I have a feeling I'm going to use up our friendship in getting these done. His Son, who is going to take over soon, does not care about my business and does not want to do these wings. I believe it will be three weeks till I get these wings. Once I get them I will work night and day to get them done and to you guys. I only have two orders, and the third is mine.
To say the least this screws me up. I'm ready to paint my car, and I can't until I get these two wings done.
If you guys want your money back I can do that, or wait a little while longer. I can't say how sorry I am . I have always taken pride in getting my wings done on short oder.
I'm stating this on the open forum, so that others know my predicament...
Dane
DANE that is a bad bummer,you seem like a very honest man just tryin to do the right thing,just for future why couldent they be made on a c&c machine or the new water cutting c&c
My first thought is that if that was possible and cost effective someone would do it. Too intricate maybe? A called him today - good news if I can get them next week we could see a these done sooner than later. I will post progress.
Dane
No Dane I want one!! Just let me know when you need the rest of the money! No big hurry because in reality my car won't be done for probably another year but I want one of your wings!!!
oh man, i cut the one you sent me last year, was hoping to get another one someday....................
Quote from: mauve66 on June 08, 2012, 06:36:17 PM
oh man, i cut the one you sent me last year, was hoping to get another one someday....................
I was hoping to buy one to store away just in case. I've had a guy near here that keeps changing his mind back and forth about selling me his solid 69 Charger. I would love to have the wing just in case.
Quote from: hotrod98 on June 08, 2012, 08:49:01 PM
Quote from: mauve66 on June 08, 2012, 06:36:17 PM
oh man, i cut the one you sent me last year, was hoping to get another one someday....................
I was hoping to buy one to store away just in case. I've had a guy near here that keeps changing his mind back and forth about selling me his solid 69 Charger. I would love to have the wing just in case.
I don't want to high-jack this thread, so I will say no more after this, but I'm very frustrated. I have invested a lot of time and money in patterns to make these. I hate and am sickened to charge 1700.00 as it is. I did these to help the after-market cloners to have a great strong wing. Now I'm not even sure in a few years how I will make my own :( It's not like I can cast aluminum in my garage. After these they will be more - I hate to say it.
The only good part is because these wings take so much of my time that I don't get to do much on my build, so becasue of that, this last year I had not taken one order and I loved it. So now 3 wings in one summer is going to kill me :coocoo: . The cost will most likely scare most people off.
Down memory lane, I have shipped my wings to almost every state in the US, Canada, Iraq & England, with two on real Daytona's (I'll never tell). It's been a fun ride. I must say that my dream would be to help (donate) a wing for a TV show and be a part of that build.
Dane
Your not jacking the thread Dane, Thanks for the info :2thumbs:
I'll admit that there is a price point where I would have second thoughts about buying a wing that I might never use. Of course, the value will always be there as far as resale is concerned. I had no difficulty reselling the two solid wings that I bought from you when I bought your newer hollow style wing. I should have bought two of the newer style wings at that time.
i sold two solid wings to get my Dane wing . i was so happy when this showed up at my door.
i sold my dane solid wing for 1100 and adding more savings to it to buy my hollow wing when it came out
Stu, Who's solid wing is this in my shop? You guys have several nice daytona parts stored up on the top shelf ;D I keep forgetting that I still have a bird nose and some other fiberglass parts that I never used. I'm a mopar parts hoarder. My son bought a 70 Challenger earlier today and he's already gathered enough parts fom my stash to completely restore the car...lol
I'm really regretting selling my real bird wing and the nose that Mike G made for me. :brickwall:
Quote from: hotrod98 on June 10, 2012, 08:41:13 PM
Stu, Who's solid wing is this in my shop? You guys have several nice daytona parts stored up on the top shelf ;D I keep forgetting that I still have a bird nose and some other fiberglass parts that I never used. I'm a mopar parts hoarder. My son bought a 70 Challenger earlier today and he's already gathered enough parts fom my stash to completely restore the car...lol
I'm really regretting selling my real bird wing and the nose that Mike G made for me. :brickwall:
lonnie , mopar hounds wing
Okay. It's safe and sound where it is.
hey Hotrod , could you use the solid wing to make your own wings. you've made repro's of all the other parts :shruggy:
Quote from: BigBlockSam on June 11, 2012, 10:33:08 AM
hey Hotrod , could you use the solid wing to make your own wings. you've made repro's of all the other parts :shruggy:
We don't have foundries here in the south. Which is strange since much of the aluminum bauxite is mined here in Arkansas.
Indygenerallee, your inbox is full :) Good news on the wings. Will be done soon.
Dane
Quote from: Daytona Guy on June 27, 2012, 01:12:25 PM
Indygenerallee, your inbox is full :) Good news on the wings. Will be done soon.
Dane
:2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
Dane, Thanks for the info!!! :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
:popcrn: well, no pics :popcrn:
Dane, not to hi-jack this thread, but I know all to well your pain. I'm trying right now to get a couple VERY rare parts WAY smaller than your wings cast at a foundry....These people seem to be on the same page as many bodyshops when it comes to "Easy" money. Every time I ask about the pour, he's got something else in front. It's been two years now. I'm already invested over $10K with investors. They are getting restless for some money paidback and all I can tell them is the deal The Foundry and I agreed upon is being messed with...
Yes, it is the small parts and not that many to do that place them on the "not to do list". Mine require huge boxes and they have to be poured hotter than normal (aluminum) because of the thickness (thin). I'm so happy they are getting done. Most likely my last wings for a while, because I have to finish my Daytona :)
I'm impressed with the work Indygenerallee is doing - incredible talent.
Dane
A sad day. Glad you get some time to your own projects now. I've never met you (Mr. Dane) but thank you for your hard work. Many have mentioned your name when it comes to quality parts. Were you to start again, count me in.
Dane, Thanks for the kind words! If my Daytona comes out looking as good as your yellow Daytona I will be smiling ear to ear!!! :icon_smile_big:
Grinding away - me covered in the black aluminum shavings on an 80 degree day :)
(http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/6564/img4352r.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/835/img4352r.jpg/)
(http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/4889/img4319t.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/337/img4319t.jpg/)
Dane
Dane, Looks great!!! Can't wait to get it!! :2thumbs:
NICE!
Quote from: BigBlockSam on July 11, 2012, 10:36:10 AM
NICE!
:drool5: :drool5: :drool5: :yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod:
Quote from: Daytona Guy on July 11, 2012, 01:46:02 AM
Grinding away - me covered in the black aluminum shavings on an 80 degree day :)
Dane
That's not fun. It sure is looking good though. :2thumbs:
Quote from: Ghoste on July 11, 2012, 10:47:10 AM
Quote from: Daytona Guy on July 11, 2012, 01:46:02 AM
Grinding away - me covered in the black aluminum shavings on an 80 degree day :)
Dane
That's not fun. It sure is looking good though. :2thumbs:
Ditto on the not fun and looking good. I remember repair grinding, hand filing, and bringing in the pitches to spec on many a submarine and ship propeller on hot days and having the skin between your toes and other places turn green from sweat, brass, and bronze dust.
Guy's I have every single Daytona piece EXCEPT the A pillar trim, who makes the best fitting ones? And does anyone have a set they would be willing to part with? :2thumbs:
Quote from: Indygenerallee on July 14, 2012, 06:08:13 PM
Guy's I have every single Daytona piece EXCEPT the A pillar trim, who makes the best fitting ones? And does anyone have a set they would be willing to part with? :2thumbs:
There are several people making them.
I haven't seen a set yet that I'm impressed with.
i have Datonalo's on my car
I have a lead on a set of Eric Nelson A-pillar trim
Quote from: BigBlockSam on July 14, 2012, 07:01:06 PM
i have Datonalo's on my car
I bought a set from him a while back. I thought these were his on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-CHARGER-DAYTONA-500-PLYMOUTH-SUPERBIRD-STAINLESS-A-PILLAR-TRIM-/220882662089?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336da1f2c9&vxp=mtr
yea those are his . they fit great and look great . good price too
Quote from: Indygenerallee on July 14, 2012, 08:08:51 PM
I have a lead on a set of Eric Nelson A-pillar trim
I bought some parts from that guy... :scratchchin:
Once... ::)
Quote from: BigBlockSam on July 14, 2012, 10:07:33 PM
yea those are his . they fit great and look great . good price too
I think Larry's parts are OK when he's on his meds. :apimp:
At least one member here had a set of his that didn't look right at all. :eek2:
The top had a big upward bulge to it.
I just can't take the chance he'll get his dosage right. ::)
Daytona, you have a PM.
QuoteI think Larry's parts are OK when he's on his meds. apimp
At least one member here had a set of his that didn't look right at all. eek
The top had a big upward bulge to it.
I just can't take the chance he'll get his dosage right. Roll Eyes
:scratchchin: i heard the opposite about larry's a moldings . Larry is a perfectionist with his parts and he guarantee's them .the guy should have sent them back to him . he stands behind hid parts . his sold a lot of them . i dig mine :Twocents:
Go towards the bottom of this page:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,70102.225.html
:shruggy: :shruggy: :shruggy:
Yeah that's the pic I saw before!! Looks like utter shit....
yep thats ugly . looks like it got smashed , maybe in shipping . ups just distroyed a guitar i sold . i got nothing to gain by sticking up for larrys work . i know some of you gays don't like him . he can be a pain in the ass but i know he would have never sent that out like that . he's a perfectionist . his sold over 100
100 pf these and i don't see many complaints . look st the one on ebay . they don't ;ook like that . and look at mine they don't look like that either .that's an old pic during mock up. they look even better now :cheers:
Rene, I resent the GAY comment I figured you would been more understanding of us GAYS!!! :rofl: :lol: :smilielol: You have any close up shot of your trim?????
yea i do . i gotta find it :shruggy:
Quote from: BigBlockSam on July 15, 2012, 11:01:29 AM
yea i do . i gotta find it :shruggy:
:smilielol: :smilielol: he has lost the car
Quotesmilielol smilielol he has lost the car
:slap: the car's not here it at Jacks . plus the roof chrome is off the car . i'm trying to get it ready for paint before winter gets in but i have a pic some where in my computer :slap: :cheers:
I bought a set of Larry's a pillar trims when I built Allen's car. They were great. I have an extra set of originals around here somewhere and they don't fit much better in my opinion.
Well a member has a brand new pair of Eric Nelson made A pillar trim and I am going that route as he gave me a deal on them!
Quote from: Indygenerallee on July 15, 2012, 10:10:05 PM
Well a member has a brand new pair of Eric Nelson made A pillar trim and I am going that route as he gave me a deal on them!
i have a set of both eriks fit a little better but are alot thinner and not as bright of a shine on them as larry's
Well I have been trying to track down some wheels and with info from Higbanked hauler, and some other research I called Stockton wheel today, They said they could get me a plain Mopar steel wheel 15x10 with a 4" backspacing if they reversed the rim itself at $190.00 each in bare steel! Seems a touch pricey but I want the thing to look like a Nascar Daytona so it looks like I will probably go this route, the guy I talked to said they would use the later Mopar plain steel wheels that they are different and have a "flair"?? IDK what he was referring to but he said he would e-mail me a pic. I need to find a set of 275/60/15's I would love to find a set of Goodyears with the white lettering but everywhere I have looked it looks like Goodyear has about disco'd white letter tires in that size, Drag radials were blackwall only.. Oh well something else to search for!!! :lol:
Quote from: Indygenerallee on July 16, 2012, 01:07:11 PM
Well I have been trying to track down some wheels and with info from Higbanked hauler, and some other research I called Stockton wheel today, They said they could get me a plain Mopar steel wheel 15x10 with a 4" backspacing if they reversed the rim itself at $190.00 each in bare steel! Seems a touch pricey but I want the thing to look like a Nascar Daytona so it looks like I will probably go this route, the guy I talked to said they would use the later Mopar plain steel wheels that they are different and have a "flair"?? IDK what he was referring to but he said he would e-mail me a pic. I need to find a set of 275/60/15's I would love to find a set of Goodyears with the white lettering but everywhere I have looked it looks like Goodyear has about disco'd white letter tires in that size, Drag radials were blackwall only.. Oh well something else to search for!!! :lol:
its gonna need 5 inch back spacing 5.25 would be better
Highbanked Hauler is running 15x10's on his 500 all the way around and he said his has 4" backspacing he said the rim almost rubs the upper A arm, and he runs them on the rear also, The wheel arches will be modded to Nascar Daytona style anyway! :icon_smile_big:
GoodYear still makes white letter stock car tires but you wouldn't want them for the street. I have seen white tire paint but I don't know how good it is.
Quote from: Indygenerallee on July 16, 2012, 01:39:42 PM
Highbanked Hauler is running 15x10's on his 500 all the way around and he said his has 4" backspacing he said the rim almost rubs the upper A arm, and he runs them on the rear also, The wheel arches will be modded to Nascar Daytona style anyway! :icon_smile_big:
I would be concerned about the stock center thickness of the wheel on a 10 in rim. My centers are a 1/4 thick and welded all the way around.. HOWIE I think it is on here has a set of old stocker wheels..
How about these , they are aluminum and a 98 only f150 nascar edition truck only wheel
black 10 windows with a red pin stripe , they are 16 inch . I always thought they would look great on a race clone
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSfdCpF8WBQ
i see them out there used for about 100 each
Yeah, The centers Stockton wheel use to reverse the standard steel Mopar wheel are the later style and don't look real hot IMO, I did find these wheels from Diamond racing wheels and they have a couple selections that are DOT approved and are really reasonable on prices I talked to the lady and she said the 15x10 in 4" backspacing for the stock car round or "D" style was $87.50 each. Here is a link http://diamondracingwheels.com/trucker.html
Quote from: Indygenerallee on July 16, 2012, 01:39:42 PM
Highbanked Hauler is running 15x10's on his 500 all the way around and he said his has 4" backspacing he said the rim almost rubs the upper A arm, and he runs them on the rear also, The wheel arches will be modded to Nascar Daytona style anyway! :icon_smile_big:
any pics of his car,i looked on here but could not find any
The only difference between street and race wheels that I know of is the chamfer on the bolt holes. Street wheels are 60 degrees and race wheels are 45 degrees so I am told.. Maybe there are others but thats all that I know of.
I was told DOT rims have a "safety bead" Basically keeping the bead seated in a blowout (what difference that makes IDK!?) But for insurance and liability I would rather use a DOT approved rim, I would hate to total the car from a wheel failure and loose all insurance replacement coverage. :Twocents:
True stock car wheels are made from much softer steel. They don't like potholes. I like that you're going a little different on the wheel choice.
I've decided to put my 17" Centerline billets back on the Superbird. Just looks so boring with the Rallyes. Aso thinking about putting Black Ice decals back on the quarter panels but in satin black instead of white like they were back in the day.
Larry, Yes I have kicked it around and I have looked at one too many vintage Nascar Daytona pictures and just love the look of big tires all the way around! Gonna look killer and in a crowd of Daytona's I will be able to pick mine out in a instant!
This is the period "Clement" wheel that is now again available. The Beinekes run them on their 1971 Daytona and Superbird race cars.
Compared to a real GN style wheel, the ones on this F150 look like, well... truck wheels.
Don't put truck wheels on your wing car! :lol:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=89467.0;attach=178194;image (http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=89467.0;attach=178194;image)
Quote from: Aero426 on July 17, 2012, 08:42:19 AM
Compared to a real GN style wheel, the ones on this F150 look like, well... truck wheels.
Don't put truck wheels on your wing car! :lol:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=89467.0;attach=178194;image (http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=89467.0;attach=178194;image)
I thought they looked good and a cheap alternative :nana: :nana: :nana: :nana:
If Gary and Pam are running those wheels at 200 MPH they have got to be "round". I have a set of BARTs from Summit in 99 after the wreck and you can't go over 50 with them because it will shake the hell out of the car because the runout is so bad. The no name wheels I have now are marginal at best. :smilielol:
Gary did initially encounter an out of round problem a year or so ago and that BART made it right. BART has just made a new die stamp to accomodate a race quality thickness steel. Gary told me in April that the latest wheels "balanced out beautifully" and that in his words, "they are great".
Quote from: Aero426 on July 17, 2012, 08:39:40 AM
This is the period "Clement" wheel that is now again available. The Beinekes run them on their 1971 Daytona and Superbird race cars.
Any part number on those as I can't find that style. :shruggy:
You have to call Rick Clement. I don't think they are advertised on the site. Tell him you heard about the wheels from Gary.
I like those wheels!!! Much better than the "D" or circle styles!!!
Quote from: Indygenerallee on July 17, 2012, 06:42:52 PM
I like those wheels!!! Much better than the "D" or circle styles!!!
Same here, we'll need a part number and a supplier :2thumbs: Wonder if they have the 5/8 holes as mine do.
Has anybody mentioned these? http://www.bassettwheel.com/steel.html (http://www.bassettwheel.com/steel.html)
Not kidney bean, but impressive runout specs. They use a 1"dia 45*taper lug nut. I've used these wheels (in an outer beadlock style) on a 3800lb rockcrawler application. Never bent the centers. IIRC, they are available in custom backspacing to fit any need.
Quote from: Indygenerallee on July 17, 2012, 06:42:52 PM
I like those wheels!!! Much better than the "D" or circle styles!!!
These are mine I had made more than a year ago. Still sitting in the boxes waiting on tires and a finished car to put them on :(
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,67082.0.html
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7122/7598573852_ddfd128fbc.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7598573852/)
IMAG0149 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7598573852/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7253/7598577146_d9374b5ac5.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7598577146/)
IMAG0150 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7598577146/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
Just got these Erik Nelson made A-pillars in today from another member here!! Look pretty decent and I could not complain about the price!!! :2thumbs:
OLD CAR NUT are the bolt holes 1/2 or 5/8 in. ??
Quote from: Highbanked Hauler on July 19, 2012, 07:53:12 AM
OLD CAR NUT are the bolt holes 1/2 or 5/8 in. ??
They were made for the stock 1/2" but I think they could put in whatever you wanted.
Im going to call Bart Wheels tomorrow and ask about those vintage wheels, I could find nothing on their site.
Quote from: oldcarnut on July 19, 2012, 10:04:20 AM
Quote from: Highbanked Hauler on July 19, 2012, 07:53:12 AM
OLD CAR NUT are the bolt holes 1/2 or 5/8 in. ??
They were made for the stock 1/2" but I think they could put in whatever you wanted.
The stock car wheels I have have the 5/8 holes so they have to be centered on 1/2 studs and use a 45 degree lug nut.
I finally received my wing today from Dane and let me just say first and foremost a big THANK YOU!! To Dane! This wing is a work of art!! Very,very,very nice!! I just can't wait to get started on it, one small project and I will be on my Daytona from then on out!!!
:cheers:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7110/7651369918_68bd52d348.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7651369918/)
IMAG0165 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7651369918/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7135/7651367020_e227d0ff0d.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7651367020/)
IMAG0166 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7651367020/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8160/7651358000_5146d64c52.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7651358000/)
IMAG0167 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7651358000/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7130/7651372102_160f316beb.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7651372102/)
IMAG0164 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7651372102/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
:2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: looks great
Quote from: moparstuart on July 26, 2012, 01:56:56 PM
:2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: looks great
They are AWESOME wings. Dane is the MAN.
Quote from: 1HotDaytona on July 26, 2012, 02:41:27 PM
Quote from: moparstuart on July 26, 2012, 01:56:56 PM
:2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: looks great
They are AWESOME wings. Dane is the MAN.
yup mine is lonely just sittin out in the garage and not mounted on a car
Quote from: moparstuart on July 26, 2012, 03:57:28 PM
Quote from: 1HotDaytona on July 26, 2012, 02:41:27 PM
Quote from: moparstuart on July 26, 2012, 01:56:56 PM
:2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: looks great
They are AWESOME wings. Dane is the MAN.
yup mine is lonely just sittin out in the garage and not mounted on a car
mine is mounted and its still lonely, been almost 2 yrs since i put it on...............
Quote from: hotrod98 on July 16, 2012, 10:08:56 PM
True stock car wheels are made from much softer steel. They don't like potholes. I like that you're going a little different on the wheel choice.
I've decided to put my 17" Centerline billets back on the Superbird. Just looks so boring with the Rallyes. Aso thinking about putting Black Ice decals back on the quarter panels but in satin black instead of white like they were back in the day.
Larry did some research and the enkei wheels that were on te car were enkei ek90. 15x8 rims. have found some online. some not as wide. but believe that some place lie scockton wheel could widen them.. I knew youd be puttin te centerlines back on LOL. taks care.
Tom, I've only driven the bird a couple of times this year. No time and then too hot outside. We're heading to Branson with it next week. I'll post some new pics in a few days.
QuoteThis wing is a work of art!! Very,very,very nice!!
:yesnod: yep :cheers:
Quote from: moparstuart on July 26, 2012, 03:57:28 PM
Quote from: 1HotDaytona on July 26, 2012, 02:41:27 PM
Quote from: moparstuart on July 26, 2012, 01:56:56 PM
:2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: looks great
They are AWESOME wings. Dane is the MAN.
yup mine is lonely just sittin out in the garage and not mounted on a car
You could just go out and mount it. :rofl:
Quote from: wingcarenvy on August 01, 2012, 11:59:52 PM
Quote from: moparstuart on July 26, 2012, 03:57:28 PM
Quote from: 1HotDaytona on July 26, 2012, 02:41:27 PM
Quote from: moparstuart on July 26, 2012, 01:56:56 PM
:2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: looks great
They are AWESOME wings. Dane is the MAN.
yup mine is lonely just sittin out in the garage and not mounted on a car
You could just go out and mount it. :rofl:
peanut gallery
Quote from: Indygenerallee on July 26, 2012, 12:59:53 PM
I finally received my wing today from Dane and let me just say first and foremost a big THANK YOU!! To Dane! This wing is a work of art!! Very,very,very nice!! I just can't wait to get started on it, one small project and I will be on my Daytona from then on out!!!
:cheers:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7110/7651369918_68bd52d348.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7651369918/)
IMAG0165 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7651369918/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7135/7651367020_e227d0ff0d.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7651367020/)
IMAG0166 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7651367020/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8160/7651358000_5146d64c52.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7651358000/)
IMAG0167 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7651358000/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7130/7651372102_160f316beb.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7651372102/)
IMAG0164 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/68837841@N06/7651372102/) by indygenerallee1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/68837841@N06/), on Flickr
Thank you everyone - you are very nice to say such things. Indy - can't wait for you to make that wing come alive.
Dane
Here it is... Hopefully this next month I can start welding the rear sheetmetal on!
:2thumbs:
QuoteHere it is... Hopefully this next month I can start welding the rear sheetmetal on!
:popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn:
skipped from page 1 to page 13 and I see a primered wing. that saves me reading 11 pages of decision making :icon_smile_big:
could always build a dayclona general lee. could call it "DUKETONA". nah scratch that "DUKTONA" looks better. :cheers: :icon_smile_big:
it's already been done :popcrn:
Bryan
Quote from: A383Wing on May 26, 2013, 03:47:23 PM
it's already been done :popcrn:
Bryan
What is up with the fenders on that thing, anyway ?
:shruggy: :shruggy: :shruggy: :shruggy: :shruggy: :shruggy:
They are 69 AMD fenders and since I could not find any decent 70's and I already had these I decided to modify them to 70's I have the filler panels for the sidemarkers and the 69 bumper recess made just need to get them welded in, The bottom of the front fenders are already modified and the valance panel bolts on perfect.
Quote from: Indygenerallee on May 26, 2013, 04:02:46 PM
They are 69 AMD fenders and since I could not find any decent 70's and I already had these I decided to modify them to 70's I have the filler panels for the sidemarkers and the 69 bumper recess made just need to get them welded in, The bottom of the front fenders are already modified and the valance panel bolts on perfect.
No... ;)
I was referring to the jacked up front wheel wells on that Duketona thing with the
lime green wing on it that Bryan posted a picture of... :eek2:
Your modified AMD fenders intrigue me... ;) :coolgleamA:
Yeah i know bryan i was being silly. See whos been on here for a few years ;-)
Duktona thread was always entertaining :-)
WTF??? :lol: :smilielol: I have seen the "Duketona" a few times and never noticed the front fenders (I guess that big ass green wing on a General Lee kinda steers yours eyes elsewhere!!) Looks like someone had a few Jack & Cokes and broke out the sawzall..
yeah from memory the front fenders had been modified for whatever reason and he decided to leave them. pretty sure the car had been in one of the later dukes movies (?)
sorry for the thread jackin ;)
Lots of great pics an links,to help anyone thinking of building a Daytona custom . :popcrn: :drool5: :2thumbs:
Any updates on this project?
oops, too much opening or not enough?
Maybe the Duketona was a 4x4 once upon a time too...needed more clearance for them der tires....I am a redneck too so I can poke fun at myself.
On my way to buy this car and figer out the best way to move it to my house.
Car is payed and everything is a go :cheers: :2thumbs: now I have two cars to do :drool5:
Cool, got any current progress pics of this car Chris? How much does it need?
The car is in need of some work it sit as it last posted. But I will post pics of it when I get it home.
:popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn: :drool5: :drool5: :shruggy: :icon_smile_question: :icon_smile_question: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
Quote from: 500Jon on January 26, 2017, 10:35:51 AM
oops, too much opening or not enough?
Depends on the size tire I guess, I can run a stock car tire on a ten inch rim with my flares..
Well I have it at the house finally. I will start a new post on this car. It will be a Daytona still but it will give me a lot of info. That I need for the 70 charger. :2thumbs: :cheers:
So that brings this thread to a end.
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Quote from: charger chris on April 02, 2017, 01:12:19 PM
So that brings this thread to a end.
[/quote
Can't wait to see you pick up the ball and run with it.
I can't wait to get started on it I have all most all the parts he pulled off it I am working on getting back. It's funny I got the parts for my other car and now they are going back on this can lol. :smilielol: