I have noticed some doubts about the parallel charging wiring stuff and still about fears keeping the ammeter working on Mopars because overheats and blah blah blah So I wanted to make some consideration notes.
The reason why the Charging system melt down on Mopars is simply because alt is not able to charge at iddle &/or low amp output power. That makes power coming and going on all the wiring and terminals, including ammeter, from alt and from batt when alt is not able to feed, with high peaks for long time when alt is charging the batt and feeding the car at the same time when press gas pedal. That's what melts. A car with an unratted alt makes batt feeds the car and opening throtles power coming back from alt.
Being the MAIN SPLICE to everywhere, ( fusebox, ignition switch so then engine and everything, headlights ) located on alt section, black wire located between ammeter and bulkhead running to alt, the power pass through ammeter coming from batt reading discharge and heating more for a while more time is reading discharge. The problem IS NOT the heat, the problem is THE DISCHARGE. You don't have to save the heating, YOU HAVE TO SAVE THE DISCHARGE. Heat is just a CONSECUENCE. Of course a bigger ammeter will be the best and you could keep running even on discharge without worried about burn, but sooner or later will have the real problem coming out to float... DISCHARGED BATT.
You save that when you have a car being feeded COMPLETELLY by the alt.
Of course even on that way you still will have a weak point: black wire heating on bulkhead cavity. Thats the FIRST BURN AND MELTING POINT. You will notice that burnt point on ALL Mopars, specially A/C cars or if you live at cold area and use a lot the heater. THAT'S the moment when the parallel wire throught firewall comes to save us.
Reason why I/we/you use a heavier wire on upgrade to alt-amm section is because the alt feeds the car on that section. The main splice that feeds everything on car is located between buikhead and ammeter on black section. Then the rest of power ( if something left to send ) is barelly sent to batt JUST IF BATT NEEDS to recover power for some specifical reason, then you won't need a REALLY heavier wire on batt section.
If you have balanced power where alt is able to feed the car you'll NEVER get power from batt, allways from alt, so power never flows from batt to feed the car, just ocassionally, Specially on start moment, then on regular use never will get heat on ammeter or red wire at bulkhead.
Then getting the deal on the upgrade with the car feeded from alt, extra load NEVER pass through ammeter, and comes back to batt. Allways will be spliced and routed BEFORE amm so never get overheat there or after.
With power being feeded from alt, never will get a discharged batt!!! simply like that!!!
Just on STARTING moment is when you get a heavy power draw from batt... rest, will be alt.
Of course if you do have relays conected to batt side, you'll get power thought ammeter and wrong read about where is the consumption. Amm will give you the info like alt is charging the batt, what is not true, really is feeding the relays. That's why must be feeded from the alt side.
IF you get a fully discharged batt somehow you need to charge the batt OUTSIDE the car. If you decide charge on car, NEVER open throtles. Do it at iddle to save the system from the HEAVY charging load, at least on the first 20-30 minutes.
Some extra doubt, just let me know. I'll inmediatly add diagrams to ilustrate.
Sorry if on this first reply I repeated some stuff on several paragraph, but I was worried on get all doubts saved on several ways.
Let's start with how the charing wires are routed. This is your original system.
(https://i.postimg.cc/k53yLyRR/Main-charging-wires-system.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZWH3dpcJ)
This is your system when batt is feeding your car. This happens when everything works without running engine and when you are starting the car. No power coming from alt.
Remember after ignition switch you also feeds engine, Fuse box at acc side, so then all acc are able to get power, starter motor if you are cranking. You can imagine how much load there is runing. Nothing wrong IS JUST like must be. Notice the amm needle position. I'm ilustrating like you were cranking. Of course accesories is cut while you are cranking.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Pr0b8M4V/Power-flow-when-discharge-at-amm.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xcyNwMBL)
This is the power flow when discharge at idle. Alt is probably charging but not enough to feed completelly the car or charge the batt. Then the constant power through ammeter makes heat there and bulkhead red terminal. Oftenly is normal, but this constant read is bad, not just because the heat, really because THE DISCHARGE factor.
If you disconect the batt at this moment, car will turn off because main power is coming from there.
Notice amm needle. Since alt is giving at least some of the power, then is more to center, but not enough. Thicker arrows are still on batt side. Alt side is ilustrated with thin arrows. I made this different stuff to proportional illustration of power source.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9X8Yc2qh/Power-flow-when-discharge-at-amm-with-engine-running.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MXBQYhDP)
Here is what does happen when you start to rev up the engine after a batt discharge status. Of course splice is at same place so then increased power from alt start to heat the black wire at bulkhead. Not bad, is just normal. Notice difference on amm needle position and thicker of power flowing arrows, simply changed, same as the direction. More Rpms on Engine then thicker arrows to batt side as far batt still needs to be recharged after a discharge status, and more Charge reading on ammeter. This is what makes heats the ammeter again and rest after ammeter. Nothing wrong on this, is just the normal stuff.
Splice still keeps "sucking" the same power. Car doesn't care where comes from, just gets what does need coming from anywhere. Amm is what SAYS YOU where is coming the power, That's what you needs to know.
These two lates reading are the normal reading we have on our cars. The more time the needle keeps at iddle below the center of ammeter, then the more time you'll have opposite reading when oppening throtles to charge batt to get back the power lost, and higher for a while you rev up more the engine.
This is what causes heat on ammeter when you have LONG TIME AND PEAKS readings, no matter where comes from power. And of course the higher power source heats the wire one more than the other ( red or black at bulkhead ). Normally black is the more heat source since splice is there and alt has to feed car AND batt when discharged, for a while red feeds car BUT NEVER the ALT.
Second diagram is the same but higher RPMs, where alt sends more power, Car is using the same and the rest of power is charging back the batt with more amperes. Of course, more charge reading on ammeter. Arrows are proportional to power flow again
(https://i.postimg.cc/Hnx0bZRR/Power-flow-when-charge-at-amm-opening-throtles.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1nkNQH9r)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MHF7508T/Power-flow-when-charge-at-amm-opening-throtles1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jnynd720)
THIS IS WHAT WE NEED TO GET... an ALT able to feed a car, at idle, with accesories working: A/C, Radio, Rear deffog, headlights, cluster etc... specially on those moments.
We don't care if whe have all that stuff working and ocasionall discharge reading when brakes pressed, hazzards, turning lights, dome, power windows, power antenna raising up etc..., because those equipments just work at certain moment, not constant. Car and wiring is able to get back power lost without time to heat anything. Anyway is just a temporally consumption that is so quick that is imposible to get the system balanced right away.
Notice center reading on amm THAT MEANS NO POWER FLOWING throught amm, so NO HEAT there. Imposible to get heat where you don't have power flow.
Heats is a physical and chemical reaction when a system is not able to support the load, the power, the energy or ANYTHING in the world. Uneficiency on energy flow or tranformation is what makes the heat. ( unless you WANT to makes heat LOL )
Of course, the more equipment working, then the more heat is able to damage bulkhead at black wire area. That's when the next part of upgrade comes down.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Yqvf9P1m/Alt-feeding-COMPLETELLY-the-car.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZChysVsT)
Once we got a good powered alt able to feed the car starting from iddle, then we have this to save the weakest points ( bulkhead ) from the extra load. This is what we have then. The parallel wires won't make to save the load throught ammeter, just save the terminals at bulkead.
Note: You will still keep the same readings on ammeter as earlier but this time with a GOOD alt, then won't have anymore low and high reading peaks, because load NEVER GETS the amm to feed back the batt, just go directly to splice to feed the car.
Of course you will have a full charge ammeter reading if you accidentally got a fully discharge batt, headlights left on for example all night long, or trunk light or dome light or whatever similar, but we have to be honest, THAT'S NOT THE COMMON stuff, and if it does, you simply needs to charge the batt outside the car OR maybe charge on car BUT AT IDDLE, not reving up the engine, to keep needle on scale. You will notice how the needle will be moving to center with time for a while Batt is getting back the power.
Note: the more amperes batt you have, then will take more time charging batt up to full load, so then, more time to amm needle gets center.
The parallel wire arrives to alt stud simply becasue we won't untappe the underdah harness up to the original splice to attach/sold/crimp the new wire there. The amm stud works to that, but if YOU STILL ARE AFRAID about getting the new heavier wire up ammeter, then you can untape up to splice and attachs there. Then if you do, I suggest replace also the section from splice up to ammeter stud with same heavier wire. But trust me, you don't need really that, unless you REALLY HAVE BIG power stuff, like BIG AUDIO POWER PLANTS, LOTS OF EXTRA ROAD LIGHTS etc... Amm stud works fine, just be sure you tight up good enough the new wire on stud. Stud will heats just if wire/terminal is loosen.
For same reasons explained on this thread, specially on first reply, the relays upgrades should it be attached to alt side, no matter if on alt stud or amm stud, for a while is on BLACK SIDE, because if you do at batt side, then power also flow up to batt side throught ammeter and you will have a wrong reading, like you have discharged batt, then wil get charging reading, but won't be the real stuff happening.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vHzFY3d9/Alt-feeding-COMPLETELLY-the-car-with-parallel-wires.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ykkrnhxY)
Thanks for taking the time to prepare this!
shall come in handy when I go to do this modification, thanks again Nacho. :2thumbs:
there are several ways to go for alt upgrade BESIDE GET THE SMALLER PULLEY. Three options to chosse keeping same 3 wires alt setup:
-Newer modern alt.
-Alt kit upgrade ( up 105 amps available ) on your existing stock alt. http://www.alternatorparts.com/chrysler_alt_repair_upgrade_kits.htm or http://store.alternatorparts.com/daimlerchrysler.aspx
-Use a lates 70s alt. They are made with a bigger stator what gives you more output, including from iddle. Is a plug and play job, Notice housings cover the stator. If you go hunting on Junkyard is the cheaper way. I went that way buying a NOS alt on $25. Dunno exactly how much amps but tested on car and by now good enough for me:
Thanks Nacho. I'm going to do this parallel wiring system in the winter(should have a lot of time then). I also ordered new bulkhead connection for this winter project. My interior lights(if they are on) flash at idle, any idea what's causing this, cause they light normal when I raise rpm. Is it bad connection somewhere. The alt shows good 14.6v reading at idle.
just got a PM from a member with some more doubts I'll clarify:
Fuse link... why only on batt side and not on ammeter side ? what about if amm side shorts out ?
A short anywhere will cause a HEAVY power suck. The only source able to give that HEAVY power draw is the batt, throught fuse link. Lets suppose car works just with alt, you don't have a batt on car, running just with alt, and get a short out. The draw is so heavy that engine will stop and alt will stop to give the power to the short out. With batt, even with a short, engine is still able to keep on, and still with engine off batt is still feeding the short. For a while batt is giving all the shorted power, fuse link is heating untill blows.
An alt at max output power maybe gives 100 amps, for a while you have a batt giving up to 500, 600 amps... mine is 850 amps for example. Lots of power there.
What gauge I used on parallel wires ? I used a 76 coronet donor wires what already have those. 8 on black and 10 on red. diagrams shows the same.
fuse links... 16 on oriiginal wire and 14 on parallel.
exactly what alt ?... the one showed on pic from my engine... alt with housings covering the iron center of stator. Even the lowest output alt of this kind will be feed LOT BETTER of your oldy stock one JUST BECAUSE CHARGES/FEEDS AT IDDLE!!!! because the wider stator, about one and a half milimeter wider!!! my alt does have the gold plate with PN, but never bother on chech it and search for output since my worry was starting from iddle, not reving up.
Again, the deal is get charge/feed at iddle, and then, depending on equipment, the wiring upgrade. Stock wiring and specially TERMINALS are able to drive the newer alts power UNTILL you start to get extra options working, specially A/C, because the blower and the revs decay when compressor is engaged. More because the blower itself, so heater cars are the same when working. What wiring and terminals are not able to support is the high charging peaks to get back batt charged because the not charge/feed at iddle stuff. Then charge starts when you press gas pedal, high peaks, long time periods... HEATS STARTS!!!
Also as far higher amp batt you have, more time will take to charge it, then heating will get more time... more melting
oldies alts feed the cars reving up too, just not at iddle. save from that.
My next suggestions to keep a safe electrical system: relays to blower and headlights ( mines are halogen ). Total of 6:
low beams
high beams
heater speed
low A/C speed
Mid A/C speed
High A/C speed.
here is an upgrade I made on my car... Of course is a 3rd gen so maybe differ from earliers on some stuff but basically is the same... here the story about:
I hate relays to beams on engine bay bolted or hanging around, regular tape loosen etc... Another tipical heat point problem is the blower lever switch. DAMN, SOMETIME WASN'T ABLE TO TOUCH IT... I run the A/C always!!! live in a tropical country. of course plug was melting.. changed several times
I decided to mount a bank relay somewhere. Mount a bank relay did mean add lot of wiring and modify a lot the wiring locations. That doesn't mean cut wires, just untape harnesses and run to diff location and run back the wires to original locations to feed... still think is the best option, but just wanted to go maybe with that later.
What I did made ? relays underdash, hidden, saving from engine grease, heat, dust, water and then rust on terminals.
A red line, to feed relays from side to side of dash frame TAKEN FROM ALT SIDE OF AMMETER to keep the right accurate reading... used a fuse link too, just in case, but isn't REALLY necesary.
another stuff I didn't wanted is CUT original wires... what did I made, located relays at the plug point, removed terminals/wires from original plugs, replaced the relays plugs wires for the original wires coming from original harness and inserted on relay plug... then run a same color wire from relay output to source needs to be feeded and TADAAAAA!!! circuit is closed again and nobody see the relays!!! NOT EVEN IF THE WIRES WERE CUT OR REPLACED... relays ground are just taken from the closer body point.
In this case, headlight relays are hidden on back of kick panel, low and mid A/C speeds relays above of glovebox, and heater and high speeds are bolted on dash frame and pedal brake braces. will took pics later.
RIGHT NOW I just have located one melting problem point... blower plug. Probably just need to replace and sold terminal.
(https://i.postimg.cc/BZc8cf0K/relay-upgrade-underdash2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Nacho -What size wire did you run from the Alt to the amp meter? I
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on October 07, 2007, 04:06:58 PM
What gauge I used on parallel wires ? I used a 76 coronet donor wires what already have those. 8 on black and 10 on red. diagrams shows the same.
fuse links... 16 on oriiginal wire and 14 on parallel.
Nacho
Great info.
Thanks :cheers:
UPDATE ON 3/8/2010....I just spoke with Randy at Quick Start and they are creating a new winding for our Alt. and hope to be testing it soon. It will hopefully solve the low amps at idle problem by increasing output at very low RPM's. The new added windings will increase the width about 1/8 of an inch on the case but the slip bushing should just compensate enough that no mounting changes will be needed. :2thumbs: I'll let you guys know as I asked to be one of the first to try one out.
:2thumbs:
i just installed a GM alternator and did away with the external regulator.....10 years running...no problems!!! 65 AMP alternator by the way
I poop on GM! :nana:
Quote from: b5blue on March 08, 2010, 05:53:33 PM
UPDATE ON 3/8/2010....I just spoke with Randy at Quick Start and they are creating a new winding for our Alt. and hope to be testing it soon. It will hopefully solve the low amps at idle problem by increasing output at very low RPM's. The new added windings will increase the width about 1/8 of an inch on the case but the slip bushing should just compensate enough that no mounting changes will be needed. :2thumbs: I'll let you guys know as I asked to be one of the first to try one out.
No problem on the width change since the laters alt ( with closer housings ) got that thicker setup.
do you have some update ? I'm right now between get a new replacement 78 amps alt ( available at some shops like rockauto, advance on atround $50 ) or wait for the new kit... advantage of a new kit will make a lighter and smaller shipping, and will be assembly on the old stile housings, so more stock and correct year look
Sadly no update yet Nacho, if they do not produce soon I will go with 120 amp Denso kit from Mancini Racing, they assure me it will fix lazy idle charge problem. They said 60 amp would be fine but 120 amp is only 25.00 more and I have ordered a bunch of Hella 40 amp control relays to handle the load distribution. (In anticipation of adding A/C, rear defroster and some other electronics) I really want to try the new unit but I will only wait another 3 weeks or so then I must do one or the other! You may contact them and get on the list by email, I talked to them on the phone and he asked that I email as that is how they are keeping track of those who are interested.
well you know that suposelly the quick start ppl is offering 80 and 105 amps kits...
http://www.alternatorparts.com/chrysler_alt_repair_upgrade_kits.htm
so, still these kits don't charge at iddle ? it should work, since although spec is rated as max output, will mean also on all the scale should be increased
The low amps at idle is due to the number of windings, the alt. is not "excited" enough at very low RPM. I asked if they had considered a smaller diameter pulley as that would spin faster and they replied it would not be a true "fix". From my experience on boats with generators I learned you must add all planned options draw to come up with a total needed output for all conditions (many want to buy a gen-set cheaper than their planed use and then you must explain well you may run your lights and refrigerator but not your A/C, is that what you want?)(The answer is always NO!) With 20 amps going to A/C and 15 to rear defrost a 60 Amp is running out of Amps for lights and wipers at idle. (I found an electric heater that draws 15 Amps I want to modify for a heated rear defroster) The hope was to get a new unit rated at at least 80 Amps that charged well at idle (humidity in Florida is a real problem and we get rain for days without stop) My 10 Hella 40 Amp control relays came in so I can distribute power to anything anywhere and only be at 1/2 of their rated load capacity. (I got a good deal on ebay, 10 for 30.00 shipped) This will leave the dash controls as just actuators with no large draws running through the dash so the bulk of the power will never "see" the dash but go to the needed source of the draw. (Much like your diagrams, we think alike) It will be up to whoever has what I need when I have enough money saved up. The A/C and rear defrost are far from happening soon I just want to be ready for it power wise first. The Denso Alt. comes in only 2 choices 60 and 120 Amp....about 20 less than I targeted or allot more than I will ever need so yes an 80 Amp would be my best pick with 105 being a bit over rated.
yes I'm agree on everything you said :D, but still thinking why they are working one that if they supposelly already are offering that :P
At 700-900 RPM Amp output is not at max. rating, it needs to spin faster for that, more windings = more amps, even at idle. :icon_smile_big:
yeah, thats the reason why I used lates alts... windings are wider on these
Yea they are adding extra windings to the point they change the bushes mounting point. My system just holds on at idle with the lights on but turn on wipers and/or blower and everything suffers. Just tap the gas and everything jumps up fine right away but here with the humidity wipers and defog are always needed together. :eek2:
As of end of May still no word from Quick-Start? :shruggy: I gave up waiting and got 120 amp kit from Mancini.
Quote from: TylerCharger69 on March 10, 2010, 06:52:59 PM
i just installed a GM alternator and did away with the external regulator.....10 years running...no problems!!! 65 AMP alternator by the way
I am 1 step away from doing the same. I want to keep stock look ,done every modification on here,still problems with it. got a gm alt on my mutant 84 ramd50 with a 360 in it charging over 10 years and counting :brickwall: :RantExplode:
Yep, Gm 1 Wie and been doing great for over 20 years. I never run a Charysler alt. on anything but dedicated drag cars.
around 6, maybe 7 years running what I did... everything perfect ;), using now the 78 amps alt from BeckArnley
Question for Nacho. Could you just run the parallel wires right up to the ampmeter and bolt on with the existing original wires? Is there a reason you spliced at the ampmeter?
Sorry didn't got the question
Are you splicing the new wire into the original wire right before the amp meter or are you attaching both wires to each stud on the amp meter?
straight to studs.
Thanks Nacho!
Would 10 ga wire work for both the black and red parallel wires?
yes, specially keeping originals yet
Thanks Nacho. I just finished this up. :cheers:
TTT
need to do some more reading before I plan to upgrade to 140amp one wire power master
Information about a newer alternator that i used can be found in this thread.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,19802.0.html
need to update some stuff here:
THE FUSE LINK!
If you are running parallel wires, IS BETTER splice both red wires into one fuse link... thicker than the original. Original is 16 gauge... 14 gauge is nice
2 fuse links are good enough too, if they are not thick... something like 2 18s if your car is low options or maybe 1 18 on the stock and 1 16 on parallel ?. Two 16s are a little bit dangerous because is allmost like having one 12.
two thick fuse links will take TOO MUCH TIME to blown, and that time is enough to damage anything else on the car before blown
Update FYI: The 120amp Denso has several years of use on it now with no issues using just the factory harness adapted to it. With my radio and cover plate out of the dash I have been able to monitor how hot the ALT gauge studs can get by reaching through the dash and holding the alt side stud with my fingers.
The main point of this update is how rapidly heat can build up in relation to the degree the battery is discharged. Any battery needing more than a minute or two to recover from cranking the engine starts building heat at the Alt. side stud. Heat is seen electrically as resistance and that creates an "avalanche effect", more time more heat more resistance on and on. With the Denso able to output 60amp @ idle it flat gets down to business in short order. It's not an issue for me, I'll NEVER run a weak or discharged battery in ANY of my cars knowing cars are not engineered to recharge dead/discharged batteries only to replace the drain from "normal" starting.
With even more powerful alternators, capable of over 100amp at idle I just want to warn others that even with the "ALT gauge bypass mod" these wires and connections can see a really rapid spike in heat as the battery is recharged.
Never with ANY kind of alt or is good try to make a full recharge batt job on car, even less on full load ammeter equipped cars... Of course if is an emergency on the road, well, will need to keep an eye everywhere to keep it safe.
if needed on the road, is good to add some load on the recharge process ( maybe parking lights position ), to keep the ammeter getting a little bit relaxed
I now keep a jumper battery pack with me at all times also. (AAA card also.) :2thumbs:
since I'm on a deep body job, and engine will be removed, I have being searching again for a quick disconect system for the parallel wiring. I never have being able to find 8 or 10 gauge DECENT quick disconect terminals locally, but searching on the web found THIS:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111445882365
GREEEEEEEAT... with 24" I will be able to cut one LARGE end to fit eyelet terminals and run straight to the ammeter studs throught the grommets without any kind of splice...the short end to be spliced into engine bay existant parallel wiring...
there is also 10 gauge 2' and 10 gauge 4'.
will use 8 gauge setup because my parallel alt wire is already 8 gauge, but honestly keeping the stock 12 gauge in use, 10 gauge is quite enough to the parallel
the other idea was to fit junction double side studs to go through the firewall
http://www.geppowerproducts.com/product/cview/3_8_pass_thru_stud_commercial_grade
they are available even with isolation cap:
http://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/jumperstuds.html
but I didn't want to open holes on firewall. I'm using an existant grommet used for the AC harness on 74s to go thorugh the wirewall
Would somebody please sticky this. I've killed about 3 trees making and losing copies over the last two years. Which terminal gets which wire, my dash is so butchered that I have two red wires to my ammeter, is the post closest to the temp gauge get the black wire?
to batt. is red from alt is black
An excellent example of why I much prefer the M&H harness with correct factory colors, lengths and terminals instead of a custom made harness.
Conect backwards the ammeter wires won't kill anything but just a reverse Charge and Discharge reading... that's all
maybe a bump would help for ppl who was searching it
:cheers:
Nacho,
Can i wire up my car this way and remove the original black 12ga wire from the alternator to the bulk head on the engine side?
This will allow me to use that original opening for the new black 8ga wire. My bulk head only has one spare opening and i will use that for the red 10ga wire return to the starter relay.
thanks,
Paul
(http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33574.0;attach=53332;image)
The deal on diagram is not just use thicker wiring, but also bypass ( somehow ) the weak packard 54 terminals, unable to hold the high loads.
If you want to remove the stock existant wires, go ahead, but run a 8 gauge wire using still the packard terminals kills the main object on this keeping a weaker point, more than the wires itself
IN FACT, I called parallel just because if you want to keep the existant wires being still in good conditions, and reinforce them with the parallel path, but being in good conditions or not, stock ones can be removed and just keep the bulkhead bypass path
What I did using a sealed marine grommet. If needed it can be unscrewed to remove 8ga wire. :2thumbs:
This is what I am asking. This still uses the original AMP gauge. The MAD electrical instructions tell me to discontinue the AMP gauge and keep all power on the engine side of the firewall. I would like to keep the AMP gauge for original purpose, but don't want to burn up my Charger. My black wire on the AMP gauge started to burn up last week when I was driving the car.
Paul
Quote from: b5blue on August 25, 2016, 03:58:51 PM
What I did using a sealed marine grommet. If needed it can be unscrewed to remove 8ga wire. :2thumbs:
I'm soon to use this to be able to disconect the thick wires
(http://www.walcottradio.com/images/TP10.jpg)
One short end to splice into engine bay wiring, the other longer end to reach straight without splicing ( just eyelet terminals ) the ammeter studs, keeping plug on engine bay side, and clean installation behind the dash.
Still undecided on use 8 or 10 gauge. 10 is really enough for our cars actually. The 8 gauge link I got is 2 foot, the 10 gauge is 4 foot. Couldn't find the 4 foot 8 gauge link.
Maybe if 2 foot is enough to reach ammeter from engine bay side, will keep 8... Or not LOL
Quote from: PocketThunder on August 25, 2016, 04:29:21 PM
This is what I am asking. This still uses the original AMP gauge. The MAD electrical instructions tell me to discontinue the AMP gauge and keep all power on the engine side of the firewall. I would like to keep the AMP gauge for original purpose, but don't want to burn up my Charger. My black wire on the AMP gauge started to burn up last week when I was driving the car.
Paul
That's simply PERFECT! And actually is what MaMopar made on high fleet cars! Although they didn't remove tne wires on cab side to bulkhead, simply let them free into the engine side plugs but still into bulkhead cavities. But sure you can remove them and give some other use to those cavities for extra acc
I guess began to burnt on firewall area ( plug or bulkhead ) which is the FIRTS point they begin to burnt out, due the packard terminal weakness
Did you upgrade your alternator ? Seriouslly think on that. Some alt able to feed 45 to 55 amps iddling will be great. That's the real reason why the terminals begin to burn! The low charge capacity iddling. You'll be saving your ammeter too with that, that's the next spot on the line if keeping stock capacity alt
One Note about madelectrical statement... All power on engine bay isn't true... As far main splice is into the cab ( which is still the one feeding fuse box, ign switch, headlights and ammeter ), that will be the main power buss inside. Will need heavier modifications tu run it outside the cab
Ok I have finished my re-wire. Here are some pictures to follow along at home. First one is me broke down on the interstate during rush hour. The black wire from the alternator started to melt and I lost power. It came back on after about 10 minutes and I drove it home 2 more miles.
PT
The finished product on the inside and engine side of the bulk head, and my shopping list at the parts store.
Does it look nice and is correctly done, althouht in your case what I had made is:
-Diff route than the bulkhead, just to be able to keep the engine harness easier to plug and unplug, hence I draw a grommet at a side of bulkhead in firewall
- use terminals, bullet kind if you want, to link the fuse link to the red wire... Easier to replace in case of blown. Bullet terminals are able to hold the load way better than the packards
Thats just about preference
Now an advice... isolate the eyelet terminals "sleeves" to ammeter. Shrinking tube is fine to do it... Dunno ir is late for that or not. I usually use dual tubes section/layers for extra safety.
And, don't forgett to upgrade/replace the alt with some alt able to feed between 45-55 iddling. Trust me that will be safer to all the charging system, opposite to the people thoughts. Dunno the size of the pulley you actually have on alt, but the smaller as posible will help on increase the charge capacity iddling. Your ammeter and all the car will be gratefull with that.
Be sure to tight correctly the ammeter studs
Very good read, Nacho. The standard alternator in my '70 Charger (440) just went bad and I will need to replace it. I am currently running the stock ammeter gauge and have had no issues (wires and connection points at bulkhead look very good). I do have the typical headlight dimming at idle along with stereo cutting off when applying brakes at night (with headlights on), so I really want to do something about that.
I do not know what amperage my current alternator is putting out but wondered what size I can safely use, before I upgrade to the parallel wire configuration, as I'll need to get the car back on the road first. I realize there are risks no matter what when running stock ammeter, but is there a specific alternator that does produce more amperage at idle and still considered "safe" with the stock ammeter gauge, so I can at least reduce the headlight dimming for the time being?
Thanks.
Nacho,
On my 74, I'm going with a one wire alternator from Mean Green. I am going away from the ammeter and will eliminate the pass through wiring going directly to the welded splice. Similar to the method spelled out here: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges2.shtml
Any idea of the total amperage load on that side of the car fed by the 16 gauge fusible link? I am planning on going with resettable marine grade circuit breakers for the battery to alternator connection and the battery to car connection. What I have seen looks like a 50 amp breaker to replace the 16 gauge fusible link.
Hi Nick,
Those fusible links were not exactly precision devices when it came to what amount of current would melt them. 50 to 60 amps was about right so a 50 amp breaker would be fine.
Quote from: Pete in NH on January 09, 2017, 10:00:57 AM
Hi Nick,
Those fusible links were not exactly precision devices when it came to what amount of current would melt them. 50 to 60 amps was about right so a 50 amp breaker would be fine.
No doubt! Way too many variables in that to make it precision. Cool, I will go spend a few dollars with West Marine!
Sorry arrived late
The full load required is the load the battery will require to be recharged from totally discharged with a good alt. Too many variables out there.
Is dangerous to fit a thick fuse link because in case if short, this must be blown way before the short burnt with a bigger damage anything else.
The advantage of the fuse link is this is able to hold as small short around without burnt. IE an accidental positive wire you are handling and get touch againts some chassis point that you saved to keep there. Able to get you some sparks.
On stock system, Chrysler used 16 gauge wich with stock systems is fairly enough. On upgraded systems, 14 is way enough, and that's just because if you get way discharged a batt, this will hold better the recharging process. But ON NORMAL operating conditions, the 16 gauge works too and is also enough since will keep safer the full wiring because will burn sooner than the 14 fuse link. In fact, with an upgraded charging system TRUST ME the fuse link will get less load going throgh than the previous stock system. The fuse link will get what the ammeter is getting too. So if the ammeter is getting less load going through, the fuse link will be the same.
And well, bypass the ammeter and everything else you'll make is just right the opposite I stated on this thread LOL. But its at each own. I'm just telling how to keep safe your stock system if you want to
I just bought all new M&H factoring wiring for my 70 Charger. I went through this thread and somewhat understand it because I'm not very good with electronics. I plan on using maybe a 120 amp alternator, electric fans, vintage air, no ammeter, using Dakota Digitals and a killer stereo system. Nacho, how would you wire this car up to make everything safe with my wiring and what alternator and battery would you use? Thanks!
This thread is about how to keep safe the stock system design. Since you are not using anymore the amm you can simply link both wires together on a junction an still run parallel wires like it is on diagram.
That will give you a power buss to the cab too, useful for the audio power plants.
Running a regular modern stereos ( i.e. 50 watts x 4 or so ) an alt able to give around 45-50 amps iddling is still plenty enough. Now if you mention a killer stereo I guess you meant power plants subs and stuff like that? 60-65 IDDLING amps should be enough to feed fans and audio system, and one of those HUGE power capacitors for the subs power plant. That will keep safe the alt and the dimming it happens at every boom made LOL.
Without an ammeter, you can get the juice from batt, but i still think the alt stud is safer, since mostly of the juice will come from it while car is running ( while alt is able to do it )
The deal is usually manufacturers doesn't provide the power alts are able to give at iddle, unless they provide an output power chart/diagram.
You can also link the alt to the starter relay stud or straight to batt with a thick wire ( 10 or 8 ), and use just one wire to feed the internal junction made by the original amm leads ( from batt or starter relay ) for the added devices, throught the firewall, adding a reinforced batt power source to the cab. This instead the parallel wires on diagrams posted here.
Ok, Thanks!
as an update, cheking 74 FSM diagram, IT SEEMS with 65 amps alt, the wiring runs like this on them:
I simply removed the red wire between bulkhead and starter relay because diagram is not clear enough about if should stay or not with 65 amps alt. I find not logic to run 2 parallel fuse links because will take way long to burn, and damage could be bigger. There is also lot of added info when running trailer tow package on diagram
NOTE I TALKED ABOUT THAT EARLIER, EVEN MY INITIAL DIAGRAMS SHOWS DUAL FUSE LINKS ON RED LINES... not good really...part of the learning process
I can't find really a reason for the 16 gauge fuse link between black 8 gauge wire splice and bulkhead, because even if it blows, the line remains hot from the grommet side, but is what diagram shows.
however, this will work too as an upgrade
EDITING:
SORRY!!!! THERE WAS A DIAGRAM HERE THAT I REMOVED ACCIDENTALLY. I KNOW HAVE SAVED SOMEWHERE BUT CAN'T FIND IT.... WILL UPLOAD BACK WHEN IF IND IT.
EDITING 2... FOUND THE DIAGRAM I ACCIDENTALLY DELETED
I'm going to post a new diagram about I will definitelly make on my car once reassembled... 10 gauge wire and the "trailer plug loop" wire with the quick disconect plug I shown earlier. Pretty sure will remove the stock red wire from forward light harness ( the original getting the original fuse link ) for easier and cleaner job, no extra splices and just using one 14 gauge fuse link.
Once you get a nice alt, the red wire feeding the fuse link from amm will be enough on 10 gauge really because barelly will get high loads.
I keep the stock black 12 wire to be able to feed the main splice from both sides... just like doubling the paths
Hi.
Because im from The Netherlands we use metric system.
Im making the bypass with 4mm2 wire, which is about 11 gauge.
You seem to advice thicker wire, why when the system would run on only original wiring too?
I'm using the original system of alt to batt, AND run the bypass.
Chris.
You can duplicate the stock system specially if loads remain the same ( no extra accesories added ). But if you are to upgrade why use the same gauge on the parallel wire ?. I initially used 8 gauge wire on my car for the black one and 10 for the red one but just because I had at home those gauges on those colors. I could use 10 gauge on black too which with the 12 gauge wire still in use is plenty for my car.
BUT the wire thickness goes to each own according with the electrical loads on car. Still needs to take in mind if the alt is able to provide the more power as posible at the minimun speed as posible
deleted... I posted some stuff on wrong thread ( what it happens with several tabs open LOL )
Posting my results:
After reading through tons of posts/articles about the 2nd gen Charger wiring I decided to go with the Amp gauge system from this thread (Thanks Nacho).
I replaced ALL the wiring/connectors/switches in the car and ran a 8 gauge wire directly from the Alt to the Amp gauge. I also ran a 10 gauge to battery post on starter relay. (Both through a rubber grommet in the firewall.)
I bought a new OER Amp gauge that to my surprise has a beefier metal part than the original one where the current pass through the gauge. (I wish I had taken pics before the install to compare.)
The new Alt I put in is a 95A Powermaster.
Nothing extra is connected on the battery side of the Amp gauge.
The black wire under the dash that goes between the bulk head connector and the splice was looped back to the Amp gauge.
Instead of the paper insulators for the Amp gauge I made insulators of printed circuit fiber boards, for both of them.
When starting the car the Amp gauge fluctuates at 0 a bit to the ALT side of the gauge, this is at 650 rpm....when upping the idle to 750 the Amp gauge is dead still just a bit to the right of the 0 mark.
When turning off the car the electric fan runs for 6 seconds and I can see it draw about 20 Amps on the battery.
So with upping the idle a bit I have a dead solid Amp gauge needle just to the right of the zero mark.
The charge at the battery with the engine running reads 14.3 Volts at idle and 14.7 Volts when revving.
So far so good. :2thumbs:
Extra note:
The car is fully LED equipped (headlights, interior etc) and the Amp gauge does not move when all lights are on with the engine off. So very little draw there.
Barelly now noticed your update! Good to know!
Is normal the ammeter could read barelly passing the center line to the charge side revving up specially if you get the opposite at iddle for long time. It takes more time to charge than discharge.
hats off to nacho found this article 1979 dodge w150 owned since new would like to know along time ago i ran a dedicated 8ga wire from 100 amp alternator which was an upgrade to starter relay never had problems installed new motor checking everthing out found i had 18.6 volts at battery replaced voltage regulator dropped to 15.7 then i noticed amp meter was in discharge after checking wiring and bulkhead for corrosion or heat i tryed disconnecting 8 ga wire amp meter returned to normal stayed stable during load so what happened am planning long road trip from michigan to new mexico adding led lights and possible electric fans for cooling giving truck to my son so running 8 ga wire through firewall and tying into black wire at amp meter will allow amp meter to function and eliminting heat build up and possible fire hoping nacho will way in concerned additional loads will over tax system any advise would be appreciated truck also has winch use to run 2 batteries got to old for off road thank you great article
Wow! Some punctuation will help a littel bit!
Ok, first of all, I don't know if trucks also changed from the full load ammeters to the shunted system ammeter like most Mopars did on around 75/76 ( 71 I think on Chryslers ) so before get you an opinion, will be better to check for that!
70 up many overlook the key in column wire connector, the big red weak point wire. Look for the toasty brown connector tell tale. :scratchchin: I use 35amp control relays under the hood.
I Just eliminated the original connections for the heavy load carrying wire with
heavy duty ring connectors, soldered, bolted and shrink tubed.
Easy solution....Joe
I use this home and auto: https://www.kinginnovation.com/category-pages/products/alumiconn.php
for the ign switch harness, a friend from FBBO shown me this solution which I LIKE a lot
Anderson powerpoles
https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors
they can be stacked on and in colors ( white if you want to emulate the original look stacking up those )
(https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/attachments/img_0288-jpg.1164033/)
Nacho I had to pull my engine and my cars been sitting for a while. I just wanted to go over how I got my charging system set up to see if I need to make any changes before I wire it back up. I'm running a 130 amp tuff stuff alternator with an outside regulator which I'm glad I am because it reduces the RFi with it being on the firewall that could happen while I'm running a Holley Sniper. No Ammeter, Dakota Digital Gauges. I have a 8 gauge wire going straight to the battery from the alternator in which I'm thinking may be too small for the 130 amp. Im running 2 spal fans, Efi, AC, Vacuum pump and a big stereo system. Any suggestions for anything different?
well... you are talking with an ammeter fan sooooo... ( LOL )
about wire thicknes and load. there are tables with the loads and wire gauge requirements ( and also relates with wire lenght ) HOWERVER it also depends on WHERE you are taking the loads for every device and the full load requirements.
Normaly the source is not what demands the network requirements but the demanded load by each accesory.
Everything will depend where you source everything... Batt post?... Intermediate junction ?
How many accesories will really suck power from batt when engine is off ?
The alt stud can be used as a juntion too for some devices. This could reduce the wire gauge demand for some devices at certain stages
8 gauge could be enough depending... and this is one example:
If you source fans straight from alt stud it means you will use a diff wire for them than the one running between batt and alt to feed them, so will get no load for them running throught that wire on a normal stage with car running.
When the batt COULD be sourcing fans ( assuming alt is plenty to source at iddle )? if you get the fan tied to a temp switch sensor which will keep on the fan once you turn off the engine up to get lowered the temp still with engine off ( just like many modern cars ), but on that stage there is no more loads running throught the batt-alt wire, just the load for the fan.
I'm talking just about the fans because is the bigger load suckers from the Acc you mentioned. Have no idea about the Vacuum pump or how REALLLY big is the stereo system you are thinking on. A/C Blower sucks also a lot, like the fans, but the stock system used to be enough for it ( except for the switches on some models).
I haven't known the EFI system like a big load sucker really.
And a fully discharged batt.... mmmm never have known a batt sucking more than 30-40 amps when being charged from death. In any case, it shouldn't be recharged on car ( except on emergency on a road side... but with tricks ;) )
Sure you can get your back covered using a 6 gauge wire running from side to side thought, but making a good study, could be not necessary
Consider use of control relays to keep large current out of the main harness inside the cabin.
Well the ammeter gets deleted with the Dakota gauges lol. About everything will be tied straight to the battery, a yellow top Optima. Fans and EFi will be on Relays. Stereo will have 8 speakers with a 700 Watt Amp. Everything will be inline fused. Just wanted to make sure the 8 gauge from the alternator straight to the battery was correct and the wire big enough and if there was anything I might need to different. Appreciate the help.
If everything will be sourced from batt post, I'd go with thicker wire
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on January 05, 2023, 06:47:39 PM
If everything will be sourced from batt post, I'd go with thicker wire
Ok thanks!!!
Quote from: b5blue on January 05, 2023, 11:15:15 AM
Consider use of control relays to keep large current out of the main harness inside the cabin.
Yeah I'm going keep everything off the main harness. All of my wiring is new M&H except the Headlight Harness.
Just to know… was it easy to understand my post (reply #87) about how to spread wires thickness according with where is located the load demand… and why? Sometimes I find hard to explain myself being english not my mother language.
Yeap, I’m aware the Dakota Digital setup uses voltimeter, not ammeter… it was a joke.
The stock ign columm plug/terminals should be safe if using relays sourced at prong #30 straight from the power source, either batt ot alt post depending on the setup. Alt side line of amm or alt itself is a must if keeping ammeter. Since i installed relays into the cab, I’m using ammeter post for the 6 relays I’m using for my car.
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on January 06, 2023, 05:07:00 AM
Just to know... was it easy to understand my post (reply #87) about how to spread wires thickness according with where is located the load demand... and why? Sometimes I find hard to explain myself being english not my mother language.
Yeap, I'm aware the Dakota Digital setup uses voltimeter, not ammeter... it was a joke.
The stock ign columm plug/terminals should be safe if using relays sourced at prong #30 straight from the power source, either batt ot alt post depending on the setup. Alt side line of amm or alt itself is a must if keeping ammeter. Since i installed relays into the cab, I'm using ammeter post for the 6 relays I'm using for my car.
Yes I know the Ammeter was a joke I understood most of it lol but it's not your English it's just that im not very good with the electric side of things. I looked at one of the charts you were talking about and it recommended a 4 gauge wire for the 130 amp alternator but just to make things clear, will I be good hooking that wire straight to the alt post and then directly to that battery? I was confused with some post about people going from the alt post to the starter relay but I'm thinking that was for an ammeter set up. I don't have a lot of room hooking up multiple wires to the back of the alt post, things are very tight down there. I'm also running a vintage air set up. I haven't completed the wiring yet. I'll try to research it more today. I don't know yet if the fan motor gets hooked up to old fan blower wire switch or straight to the battery. I thought about it hooking it straight to the battery nonetheless to keep that load off of the dash harness. Matter of fact I'm going to read the vintage manual now.
Read here it will help you learn: https://www.bcae1.com/
I think to continue with this a new thread would be better for more details for your needs.
NOTE... alt is 130 amps... but I'm pretty sure IT WILL HARDLY PUT its max output. Most of the deal with high amp ouitputs is actually get the best output at iddle. Soooooo, even the gauge wire chart related with amps advice, I think 6 gauge could be pretty much enough.
4 is usually the average Starter motor wire thickness, which REALLY sucks a lot of amperes. Could be close to 130 amps depending on starter motor and engine compression rate. Mopar original diagrams actually show 6 gauge. Thicker gauge must be also considered depending on lenght. Trunk batt cars use to get up to 2 gauge due the lenght, althought some ppl reachs to 0 gauge LOL.
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on January 06, 2023, 11:05:10 AM
I think to continue with this a new thread would be better for more details for your needs.
NOTE... alt is 130 amps... but I'm pretty sure IT WILL HARDLY PUT its max output. Most of the deal with high amp ouitputs is actually get the best output at iddle. Soooooo, even the gauge wire chart related with amps advice, I think 6 gauge could be pretty much enough.
4 is usually the average Starter motor wire thickness, which REALLY sucks a lot of amperes. Could be close to 130 amps depending on starter motor and engine compression rate. Mopar original diagrams actually show 6 gauge. Thicker gauge must be also considered depending on lenght. Trunk batt cars use to get up to 2 gauge due the lenght, althought some ppl reachs to 0 gauge LOL. Ok thank you
I hope the attachments on this thread will be recovered soon. It seems has been mentioned/forwarded on LOT of boards along the years
(And not just by me LOL)
Question on stereo amp power wire gauge? I read that I should not take power directly from the battery, if the amplifier requires a heavier gauge wire than the stock wire how and where do I get power for the amp? I dont think I would splice the stock harness into a 10awg wire for example?
Thanks
Chris
The issue is stock wiring is designed to only replace battery power lost from starting the engine. All power is supplied from alt. output. If you have not upgraded the alt. output you can't power an amp.
https://www.bcae1.com/
Great read B5! Reviewing the wire gauge section was scaring thinking what could easily happen if things are not setup correctly. I did the Ammeter bypass and ran a heavier gauge wire directly off of the amp to the battery, headlight switch bypass. I have not yet upgraded my alternator though. I am thinking the alt from quality power that puts out 110 amps. To avoid catastrophic meltdown would I power a stereo amplifier directly off of the alt? or directly off of the battery?
I'm using a Denso 120amp bought years ago. The most important aspect is idle output amps. My Denso can output about 60, just enough. I'm considering this unit: https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/pages/ChryslerMegaAmp.php
Quote from: misty440 on June 05, 2023, 10:20:40 PMI read that I should not take power directly from the battery,
Did the source say why? "Directly" can be misinterpreted i.e. as not placing a fuse in the power wire...otherwise the battery is the source you want. As for wire size, follow the amp maker's recommendation.
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-p3hJJObqFFE/learn/learningcenter/car/amplifier_installation_guide.html
I think it was in this thread that I read that it was not a good idea to power a amplifier directly from the battery but I am not sure? I will look at the amp power wire suggested size to verify but I think it was 8awg. John say that I should not fuse this power wire if it is directly connected tot he battery? I thought that I should always fuse the power wire about 6" from the source? So would it be safe to say that upgrading the alt to a higher idle output alt is necessary if I am going to run a amplifier and probably a electric radiator fan on a delay timer? If I source isolated power for these accessories will the original wire harness still be safe from meltdown?
Fuse all, every time, at the correct load rating. :2thumbs: Some have modified systems, still big loads should draw from ALT. output source.
misread your post john, yes I understand what you wrote now after thinking about it some more, could be what the writer meant that the power wire should be fused! So other than upgrading to a higher alt output at idle and using direct power from the battery fused of course the stock wiring system should not be affected negatively? I already did the ammeter bypass amd headight relay upgrade. B5, are you looking at the highest output alt from Quality Power? If so there are measurements you need to take to see if it will fit, the highest output will not fit on my 440 due to valve cover clearance.
Thank you everyone for your feedback as always very much appreciated!
Chris
B5blue, you said to power big loads off of the alt output right? So with the ammeter bypass and the larger wire feeding directly from the alt to the battery, would you recommend a power bus off of the positive battery and take power for aux fans, amp etc. from there? thinking I want hide the bus underneath my battery tray and fuse there or install relays under there as needed to keep the engine bay clean looking and not having a bunch of wires coming off of the battery terminal stud.
Thanks
Chris
No I actually have an 8 gauge wire to a small fuse panel off ALT. output that runs on parallel to sister my factory harness feed to the back of my ALT gauge. The extra fuse panel feeds 40amp relays for A/C, Ignition and the electric fan in front of my condenser.
Unless you modify to a charging system that directly feeds the battery like the old GM cars, stop thinking "Battery for power" Mopar spec calls it a "Starting Battery" and that is all it does.
My Pioneer "Supertuner" puts out 10 watts per channel and I've matched speaker impedance and speaker wire per BACE. I can't imagine needing more volume but to each their own. A vintage stock ALT. has no hope of feeding ignition/lights/wipers and a blower all at once much less another 60 amps for fan/amp.
I recall sitting at a stoplight, at night, in the rain watching my ALT gauge see saw back and forth while I revved my 440 to up amp output as my lights dimmed and wipers slowed down.
My relays shed the load keeping it out of my cabin, the original harness signals just turn big loads on and off. I don't need relays for headlights and wipers because there is plenty of power in the cabin. I even have a wiper delay to pulse wiper further reducing 12V demand.
The deal of this thread is explain how the stock system works and how to run it safe with some upgrades, which demands not to run added acc from batt WITH AMMETER still in use. Otherwise we get several other options if you don't want to keep the ammeter still on the line in working order.
Unfortunately the diagrams are not visible yet untill the new forum setup will recover the files. I can uploaded again thought since the original diagrams I made are still on my PC.
Nacho did you reload your original diagrams from 2007?? I can't see them?
Not yet... i was expecting they could be recovered by Troy.
This weekend it seeems I'll get time to be on your deal.
Hi Crowd!!! I just uploaded the missed diagrams to my image hosting service profile and attached straight on sameon replies. Didn't deleted the attachments already attached back in the days since if they float on again, pretty sure many other ppl had copied its link to post on another websites... myself included.
Woo Hoo!
Ok, so plan is to use this 2002 jeep fuse bus and move relays from 1)Dual cooling fans 2)Fuel pump 3)EFI 4)AC here and use these relays. Power feeds in on the right to fuse and then flows to relay then out to component. Stereo/AMP will feed right from input...now here's the important part, I was going to use power right off the AMP stud to power this bus. So..
- is there a consequence with taking Alt power?
- is any extra circut protection needed?
- will the amp have power with car not running? I can power stero through acc but amp/woofer are currently off batt
Suggestions appreciated 20230616_212725.jpg
What ALT. do you have? :scratchchin:
Some chrome plated one that looks pretty!! Not sure make or amp rating
It's output at idle must = amp draw.
gotcha.
Look here: https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/pages/ChryslerMegaAmp.php