Ive been looking online and all I find is older information. Looking for actual experiences from people with a 440 and a four speed with a Lakewood bellhousing over a 143 tooth flywheel and the 11 inch clutch and headers in a 69 B-body. What is a header and starter combination that actually works? A little frustrated here because in 50 years, there is no way I am the first guy to have this issue. Did they stop making proper headers for this combination? How was it done before?
Experiences with 340 A body cars are no use to me and dont bother with suggestions of how great the Dakota starter fits. I have a 69 Charger with the big flywheel and Hedman headers (yes they are a poor fitting brand) and I am telling you, the clever fits all with no problem mini starter absolutely does NOT fit. Not even close. Junkyard one, NAPA one, Chrysler one, Mancini. The mini starter DOES NOT FIT THIS COMBINATION.
Robbmc says theirs "usually" does with "some" TTI headers. That is a lot of money to dish out for usually and some so that is why I am looking for apple to apple experiences.
Hmmm...got a '69 Bee, stroked 440, Lakewood bell and an A833 sitting in the corner waiting to be assembled. :popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn:
Probably not any help, 68 Charger, 440 with Lakewood bellhousing, 130 tooth flywheel, Summit mini starter and HOOKER HEADERS FROM HELL that do everything wrong, they aren't close to the starter but have captured it. I have had Headman's that cleared a full sized starter and didn't have to bend them either. :Twocents:
With the blowproof bellhousing, i am not aware of any that are a direct fit. The 2 tubes that come veritcally down across the starter will hit with a blowproof and have to be clearanced. The passenger side usually requires work as the tubes wont clear the outer ring of the housing on 1 7/8 and larger tubes.
I do not have pictures, but the tti step headers that i have DO clear the starter with the large flywheel blow proof, but do NOT clear the bellhousing and i had to notch the housing. They are 2 inch to 2 1/8 to 3 1/2
Regarding the why after 50 yrs part- the headers were initially designed for stock bellhousings. The blowproof is clearly larger. It has to be, no way around it. The headers that fit my car with the stock bellhousing did not fit with the blowproof. The ttis are my best fit as stated before. I have the modified blowproof, will grab some photos.
I don't know anything about this subject.
I am curious however.
Questions: 1)is the 130 tooth scatter shield different than the 143 tooth scatter shield? 2) is the anticipated, or confirmed clearance issue with the starter, or the bellowing? Depending on #1 and #2 answers, is changing to a 130 an option, albeit costly and painful?
No Issues with tubes hitting the bell, not even close to a problem there. The issue is with the starter and thats what troubles me because even with the Lakewood bell, the starter location is the same as it was when the car was new.
In my case, headers physically hit the bellhousing at the flattend plate flange where the bolts hold the block shield to the bellhousing. Obviously this is not present on a stock one. 10 seconds with a torch fixed my clearance issue. Plenty of room with 2 1/8 tubes around the generic mini starter without modification.
Quote from: BSB67 on March 22, 2020, 07:13:39 AM
I don't know anything about this subject.
I am curious however.
Questions: 1)is the 130 tooth scatter shield different than the 143 tooth scatter shield? 2) is the anticipated, or confirmed clearance issue with the starter, or the bellowing? Depending on #1 and #2 answers, is changing to a 130 an option, albeit costly and painful?
i beleive only 1 blow proof now. I dont think lakewood makes one for the small flywheel. Used to be a small flywheel one with adapters but thats long ago.
Yes, one bell for both with holes to mate up either.
I am using 2 inch TTI (actually old CPPA before being bought by TTI) with the Lakewood blow shield and large flywheel. I used a 90s type starter, had to dimple one of the tubes and grind down a bit of the small screws at one of the ends to make it clear. I have a few other pics from my build link below, pages 3 and 4 :Twocents:
I run the 440-218 on mine. My tube looks different then yours.
Little late to the conversation, but I am using the Hooker Super Comps and there is plenty of room for the starter. They send one tube on the outside of the T-bar so that probably leaves more room on the starter side of the T-bar I suppose.
I had 2 inch hooker super comps on my 67 belvedere. Hated them. Burned plug boots all the time, cooked the starter.
What size starter and what heads were on that car Joe?
Quote from: Ghoste on April 20, 2020, 05:19:46 AM
What size starter and what heads were on that car Joe?
Edlebrock heads, typical mini starter. The spark plug angle may have been part of the problem, but even tried the short plugs. There was no stopping it. Regardless of that, the starter was still an issue
I'm using the Hooker Super Comps on a B block with Indy EZ heads and the McRob starter. No burnt anything and plenty of room. I have to caveat this and say that in order to use these headers with the Indy heads I had to modify one tube on the driver's side (cut off if off and re-route). This set up does not work right outta the box. Overall, I'm really happy with the Super Comps.
With the hookers nearing 1,000 price tag, i would opt for the tti. I have the tti 2- 2 1/8- 2 1/4 step headers on my 440-1 headed 440, 0 clearance issues with anything. No dents dings or modifications with those massive tubes. Everything clears and i can changes all the spark plugs in about 15 minutes hot.
In regards to the op- the ttis clear the starter but the blowproof requires a notch.