Curious what you guys/gals are doing to strap in, hold down, etc when trailering your freshly restored beauties to shows without that nice undercarriage getting "trailering rashed".
Just ordered myself a new spread axle 8.5 x 24' Atlas enclosed (being built an extra 12" high, as well as a drivers side escape door) to replace my current 20' Pace and want to outfit this one right. Have 2 months before I get my new trailer, so have time to get everything I should need to haul my Bird or Bee correctly.
Any pictures of your set ups appreciated!
Thanks, Wayne
Use the straps that hold over all four tires.
Quote from: Charger-Bodie on November 24, 2017, 10:44:37 PM
Use the straps that hold over all four tires.
I've seen a couple like this around. I'd love to get a UHaul style trailer; I love those front over the wheel straps. The trailers are way too short though and don't like our B-bodies on them.
That's how I use to haul both cars on my deck trailer!
Guess I'll need to put the tracks down and use the clip in attachments, or I guess the better thing to do would be add 8 flush rings in the floor exactly where I need them since both cars are identical in wbase. Anything else I haul could just use the existing 4 flush rings at each end of the trailer.
Picture is only 27 years old...
Now that is a BIG car trailer. Would not even be legal to tow a trailer that long in the UK.
That trailer is being pulled by a Van ??
Yep.. went everywhere with it. 1987 GMC cargo van upgraded to 3/4 ton axles with a 350 in it. Still have it actually.. for storage behind my shop.
Pulled like a champ and better than a pickup for weight distribution and braking. Was a great wind block for the cars toooo !
Now back to my enclosed trailer loading question.. :lol:
Sorry , not a fan of the method shown over the tires. That will move for and aft . No thanks.
Having done my share of transporting cars.
1st and for most, a winch to pull them in ( that way no dire need for a exit door on the trailer ,,,although if building a new trailer I'd probably still add one )
heavy duty D rings bolted the trailer frame itself,,not just the wood floor .
4 heavy duty binding straps , crossed on both ends to prevent side to side movement
Never had any issues to date with this method
"Sorry , not a fan of the method shown over the tires. That will move for and aft . No thanks."
Then you are doing it wrong...(as my wife often says to me!!!). I only use that method.....although I don't like those single straps....mine have a separate split strap across the top of the tyre (difficult to describe...will try and find photo!!) ....but even with the above method you should be able to get it tight enough not to move. Tyres/wheels should be rock solid with that method and all the pros tie down using this method in the UK. You do get a little movement up and down on the suspension but no fore and aft movement at all. Seen to much damage of chassis and suspension parts to want to hold cars down any other way.
EDIT...Pic found....mine are like this. Because of the length of the trailer I use the front bumper of the car usually only an inch or so from the winch....not had enough movement forward to touch the winch ...yet!!
(https://image.ibb.co/gOtuf6/20150314_110935_3de3e17b_f664_4cc7_8f7d_c7737cc3b7a8_grande.jpg)
No idea why two pics showing....only one link pasted!!
Thanks Bill.. what do you do on the straps to hoop the axle?
Thought X strapping would be smart, to stop any sideways sliding if all hell breaks loose! Never an issue for you?
On a side note, I never had any issues running the straps over the tires on my flat deck. The cross bars worked out perfect though to get the straps tucked nice and tight. Never lost a strap, never had a car move and I hauled for 100's of miles at times.
Already grabbed an, overkill 10,000 lb, winch on a Black Friday sale for 1/2 price yesterday with both cord and wireless remote.
I used the over tire straps on the front - the nice thing about these is they just clip into a track on the trailer floor and are very easy to adjust
for tightness and fit .
On the back I used a cross pattern over the rear axle under the brake lines on top of a rag .
No rash marks or movement at all .
Pete
Thanks Pete!! :cheers:
Keep your trailering methods coming guys, I have another 1.5 months to get everything together to do it right!
I dont like straps over the tires for the exact reason shown in the pic with the red car. It deforms the belts.
The deformation is not permanent though.
I would do what the pros do. The car haulers that carry 8 cars at a time use the "over the tire straps" like the pictures with the green Mustang above.
I had a car trailer ed once with the tire type holddowns and the tire went flat causing the car to move and touch the wall in the trailer.
Ron
Quote from: RJS on December 07, 2017, 10:05:29 AM
I had a car trailer ed once with the tire type holddowns and the tire went flat causing the car to move and touch the wall in the trailer.
Ron
When a tire goes flat, the tension will loosen on the strap regardless of which way it's being used.
Not if the chassis is blocked to eliminate suspension movement like i do with the race cars.
Any pictures Joe? I'll be hauling my fresh Bee around in it to shows and then possibly my Bird all the way to Taladaga in '19. That's over 1100 miles for me..
I just use D rings straps up over the K Frame in front & rear axle in the back in my enclosed trailer. I don't like the over the tire straps due to some of our cars sitting way too low over the tires to get them on & some have too large of slicks in the rear to fit over the tires on others.
Quote from: c00nhunterjoe on December 07, 2017, 01:13:46 PM
Not if the chassis is blocked to eliminate suspension movement like i do with the race cars.
We weren't talking about transporting race cars with fragile/sensitive shocks and expensive suspension parts.
I have a set of axle straps & cross them diagonally at the front & rear. The diagonal method prevents the car from moving sideways while it also prevents it from going forward & backwards. Towed many times without ever screwing up paint & once as far as NY to VA with my friend's car when he moved. Another time I added a second pair at the rear while trailering my Road Runner through NJ on the Garden State Parkway where there are way too many idiots in narrow lanes. ::)
(Just noticed that the Road Runner photo was before I had 8 large D-Rings welded to the front & rear of the trailer.)
Got them here.....
http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/pro-pack-premium-tie-down-kit-with-axle-straps/Package-Deals
Thanks Bob!
Never have I once had a problem with tires and belts with the straps .A friend of mine has towed his car like that all over Canada .
It keeps the car secure not sure what straps you've used .
Ordered on November 20th and they told me 8 weeks for it to be built and shipped up from Indiana. Got the call Friday afternoon that it was in and ready to go, but weather had us delayed until today to make the 4.5 hour drive each way to get it. Someone screwed up and gave me a free door window and screen door that I didn't order. Allows an amazing amount of light in, yet you can't see through the window... and the screen door will be great for bug free camping when the wife's had enough of me ! :yesnod:
8.5 x 24 with Dexter 5200 lb torsion axles in spread configuration. Trailer built a foot higher than standard so I can get things like an A100 in there or Airplane fuselages on wheels.
I've never towed a trailer that ran this smooth. No sway and most importantly no "kidney kicks" on bumps. Now to find the time to dress it out correctly with some floor, E tracks on the walls... I have an 8000 lb winch already to install and some cabinets, but for now back on my car.
Nice, what part of Indiana was it built in. :2thumbs:.
It's an Atlas.. Elkhart, IN! Probably why they use Dexter axles.. they're there too!
Quote from: Lennard on December 07, 2017, 02:00:36 PM
Quote from: c00nhunterjoe on December 07, 2017, 01:13:46 PM
Not if the chassis is blocked to eliminate suspension movement like i do with the race cars.
We weren't talking about transporting race cars with fragile/sensitive shocks and expensive suspension parts.
This is not the only reason you don't want suspension movement. When you hold the car by the tires, every bump you hit in the road causes the 4000lb car (Sometimes I hauled 10,000lb trucks which is even more severe) to bounce up and down in it's suspension travel. This can cause the car to slide around on the trailer or in a severe case it will break the straps. I have owned two rollbacks, one two car wedge trailer and a 3 car wedge trailer. (I was a used car dealer) I use chain hooks that are made for cars, they go directly into the frame, therefore they compress the suspension which is far superior to just putting straps over the tires. I'm not saying that straps over the tires doesn't work, I'm just saying there are better ways. :Twocents:
Nice Trailer! :2thumbs:
Quote from: birdsandbees on January 25, 2018, 10:15:51 PM
It's an Atlas.. Elkhart, IN! Probably why they use Dexter axles.. they're there too!
About 1.5 hours North of me, thanks.
A little late to the party.
I used to use the D-rings in the floor of the trailer. The front tie downs were regular ratchet straps with separate loops that went around lower control arms. I didn't want to just hook the straps into the K-frame because it would have torn up the paint. The rears again had separate loop axle straps, with these cool super-soft sheepskin covers around them. Both front & rear tie downs were crossed to keep the car secure. It used to take forever to tie the car down, but it was secure.
That was years ago, I since installed an E-track in the floor & went with tire straps. My straps actually cradle the tire on top, instead of a single strap around the tire. After maybe 10-15 minutes of trailering & always stop to check & tighten a bit more. The car doesn't move and is very secure. Plus no cosmetic damage to the painted undercarriage parts.
I've seen all the big name car transporters using tire straps as well.
Wife told me last night that she bought something a few towns (40 miles) over on the Buy and Sell last night and needed my truck to go fetch it. Gals got a heart of gold I'll tell ya. Somewhere for her to sit while I'm loading or working on the car. Perfect fit in the trailer and I think I'll mount them with a quick release bracket somehow so they can be moved around when the car is not in the trailer.
Since it is still "ready for finishing" have you thought about built in 6" high drive on ramps on each side? Gives you extra clearance underneath to tie down and/or work on the car.
We also wired 12 volt LED lights & LED movable spots inside that will aim in or outside with a battery on/off switch. Then my buddy Mike mounted our winch so that it is removable and we can transfer it back and forth between our old open trailer and the enclosed trailer. We put in steel cross frames under the floor and bolted them to the frame so that they were completely secure yet removable. Finally, we built in a removable tool box with assorted needed tools for repairs. Home Depot had a sale on a nice roller box for $99 and my son built a hinged frame to hold it in place while driving while he was doing the lighting. Finally, we have a Goal Zero Yeti portable battery supply that converts to 110 and 12 volt and gives us backup for the 2 permanently mounted car batteries. We have them linked to 2 cheap solar trickle chargers.
We bolted 4 new D-links to the floor after also bolting in steel mounts tied to the frame with bolts, and 4 of those e-bracket floor tie downs the same way so that anything can be tied anywhere. Finally, we undercoated the trailer and the beaver tail door to hopefully extend the life of the wood. With the extra weight in the v-nose from the tools, toolbox and spare and fluids we actually can center the car over the axles for a real good weight distribution.
I wish I had ordered a little better trailer like the one you have-the side escape door is a real handy thing, particularly as you get older and wider. We have tried to order a door kit from someone but no luck and we are in Indiana. We have hauled the Daytona from New York to Indiana, the Superbird from Chicago to Louisville without problem. Tell your wife good catch on those seats!
Bob
Very Cool! I'm going to use this thread for ideas when I purchase my next trailer.
Thanks Bob. I had considered ramps, but my Bee sits high enough to open a car door right out the escape door. The Bird, probably not and would need a little lift help to do so, I think about 1.5" is all it needs. Still mussing about using Etrack and tire straps on the floor, so I don't have to crawl underneath to x ratchet straps. Also need to keep the trailer multi car friendly, as we have other stuff that's not B body length and width as well.
Currently researching floor ideas.. paint, bed liner, rubber floor, etc but too much going on right now to get at it and it's toooo cold to do anything anyhow. Still have to touch up the flaws in the factory frame undercoat (they shipped me the DOM16 to do it), may give the wood a paint and then I'm going to Krown the entire thing.
I already have a winch for it, just have to build the attachment plate for it and I'm going to make the guide roller movable so I can peg it in if need be back at the load door.... to pull something over from an angle to center on the door.
Need to do a bit of light rewiring, since the interior only work if my truck is running which as asinine. I'll be redoing charging circuits for the winch battery anyhow, so will swing interior lights over to it vs the break away battery. Also adding some lights down low and I picked out my tool and storage boxes at Home Depot long ago. Just waiting to see how much spare room I have and how much I want to use up.
I trailered my 70 Charger from San Diego to KC and had no road rash. Open trailer.
As I've shown here before.. I've done it for years myself!
With the brine shit on the roads now it's certainly not an option up here. After a bright.. sunny.. "dry" highway.. 400 mile drive this week I can't even tell my truck is dark blue it is so caked in brown road brine! :brickwall:
Thinking of buying a Badland 18,000 lb. winch for the equipment trailer, pros, cons, junk, what do you guys think. Any info will be greatly app. Have a 3500 lb. Superwinch on the car trailer now, no problems for the last 30 years but don't use it every day either. Thanks in advance.
Here is Four Wheeler mag test of winches. The Harbor Freight Badlands winch was 6th of 7 tested and failed most tests.
Thanks, is true what they say, (you get what you pay for).
Badland 12K winch
I use mine to load & unload sometimes several times a day
Just used it today to unload a 1936 Cord Phaeton 810 Convertible
in Minneapolis, Minnesota
Never a problem - wireless remote is a big plus
Jim
Axle straps to the chassis or frame - secured with ratcheting nylon
straps - fastened to etrac surface mounted on my
double 3/4 " trailer floor - is how I secure all manner of automobiles in my enclosed trailer
Jim
Thanks, Trulyvintage, I see TSC stores have a 10,000lb Superwinch on sell for 399.99, made in USA, or China, have to do more checking. Parts wise, superwinch might be better to get than badlands, but who knows. My info quest continues.
Quote from: 69rtse4spd on March 26, 2018, 07:57:56 PM
Thanks, Trulyvintage, I see TSC stores have a 10,000lb Superwinch on sell for 399.99, made in USA, or China, have to do more checking. Parts wise, superwinch might be better to get than badlands, but who knows. My info quest continues.
For what it's worth, I purchased a Superwinch 5000lb rating with a lifetime warranty through Jegs. It failed and Superwinch was very hard to deal with on getting it replaced. Just poor customer service all around, seemed like a very disorganized company. The part that failed they claimed was not covered under the lifetime warranty, however, my warranty certificate did not specifically call out that part as not covered. I finally got Jeg's involved and after some back and forth they agreed with me that the item should be covered under warranty and they had Superwinch replace it. Based on that experience, I would not recommend purchasing one. As they say, your mileage may vary.
Looked at a Warn 10,000 & 12,000 lb out of Summit, leaning towards one of those.
I gave the Badlands 12,000 a shot since I had 35% off coupon. It was like $250.00 with the additional cordless remote. Over a year old now & used it to load probably 15-20 cars so far over this year in my enclosed. So far so good. I have a Superwinch 3500 on my open trailer that has been on there for well over 20 years now. I bought this one for $100.00 off a guy I work with. It was brand new in the box. Best $100.00 I ever spent.
I know, a Camaro!!! I get stuck hauling all of my buddies junk also.
Sure does seem like there are a lot of trailers made in Indiana.
Quote from: Ghoste on March 28, 2018, 08:06:45 AM
Sure does seem like there are a lot of trailers made in Indiana.
Yes, that is the home of most trailers. I worked down in Gary Indiana for several weeks before and there are several businesses right next door to each other, down the street from each other & across the street from each other all of the place. They are everywhere. It's almost like a food court but for trailers.
Thanks for the info, I see HF has a 25% off sale for two days this Friday & Sat.
Don't put too much rope on the winch. I usually use twice the length of my deck or two layers on the drum when wound in. It saves crushing the bottom layers, is quicker when untangling a rats nest, and allows more pulling power. Always keep a minimum of 3 wraps on the drum.
Thanks, got the 12,000 lb. on Sat. for 300.00 with 25% off, had the wife get the remote with 25% of also. Get a plate with cover made & get it mounted, hopefully this week, thanks for all the info guys, time will tell.
? for the guys using Etrack and over the tire straps. Are you parking ON the tracks, or did you position the tracks just outboard of the tires?
Although we have a lot of D RIngs and E-tracks, we use the D-Ring with the original factory transit holes-no tires or axles needed, no ratchet issues and no rash on the axles or anywhere else, plus a snap to hook-2 in the front frame rails and 2 in the back-5 minutes and done. Buy the kit for $180 at http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/factory-tie-down-point-strap-pack/Package-Deals
Get the J Hooks, fixed end ratchet. If I remember this week I will post interior pictures with the built-in ramps that raise the car 8" and still easily clear the superbird wing at the top and nose at the front. My son installed 2 rows of 12 volt LEDs along the floor at the base to light it beyond any reasonable need for ratcheting or working on them.
Bob