Yeap,,
Coming home from my club's display at the World-of-Wheels AutoRama, electrical chaos accorded in the central nervous system of Dana... I noticed the instrument lights weren't acting properly.. Figured it 'might' be the notorious dimmer switch... Well, about 4 to 5 miles from home on a 30 mile journey the amp gauge starts freaking out and then about 15 seconds later, a loud and visibly obvious white flash happened under the dash.. My step-son Josh and I notice A WHOLE LOT of smoke coming from under the dash and it's filling the driver's compartment pretty darn quick.. At the very same moment, water starts squirting onto my windshield. I was thinking the bang wasn't the amp gauge, but the motor blowing and anti-freeze is not pouring out of the motor... Come to find out, the wires in the engine compartment fry and send voltage to the washer squirter motor and activate it... Well, I do a "Dukes of Hazard" exit from the interstate and shut down in a burger parking lot.. I pop the hood and notice glowing red wires and I immediately muster all my gripping strength and twist off the positive cable from the battery.. Smoke is still filling the interior and the smell sucks....
Well, I averted a fire and didn't need the extinguisher my buddy had in his truck who followed me.. A good citizen saw everything and had a friend with a flatbed towing service and within the hour, Dana was pushed into her nest... Man, it could have been MUCH worse, but sucks nonetheless...
I quickly asset the engine bay damage and it was obvious.. Seems the alternator shorted out and then the rest is history.. I'm not sure why my fusible link didn't melt faster, but that was the glowing wire previously mentioned.... I haven't looked under the dash yet, but I'm sure I'll have to replace the complete dash harness and instrument cluster circuit board and at the minimum, amp gauge..... Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
So, the search for parts beginth........ I've contact my insurance company to see if they cover this sort of event...........
Here are pictures of the night with Dana loading on the flatbed.. I surprised myself with my lack of freaking out and calmness I had.. I thought I'd be furious.. I guess one has to make the best of the situation and make it as light-hearted as possible........ Maybe being a brand new Dad put things in perspective....... :icon_smile_big:
Troy
Here's a video (my 1st).. Sorry for being at night............
Dana fired up video after repairs..... pic on page three (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aLAmCQ76bE)
Sounds like you got lucky that night! :yesnod:
As hard as it may be to comprehend that, it is in fact true.
Good luck with the surgery.
Quote from: Shakey on November 27, 2006, 11:41:15 AM
Sounds like you got lucky that night! :yesnod:
As hard as it may be to comprehend that, it is in fact true.
Good luck with the surgery.
Oh, I believe you.. That's why I have a smile on my face there last night....... Could have been MUCH worse...........
WOW, that is never fun to see smoke..... Glad she is intact.... Best of luck chasing down the culprit.... I do have a 69 SE wire harness around. Took it out of an 18,000 mile car, however is it just an underdash one. not engine.
Tom
all stock wire harness? I'm glad the car didnt burn up.
Quote from: Blown70 on November 27, 2006, 11:48:58 AM
WOW, that is never fun to see smoke..... Glad she is intact.... Best of luck chasing down the culprit.... I do have a 69 SE wire harness around. Took it out of an 18,000 mile car, however is it just an underdash one. not engine.
Tom
That's what I'll be looking for as well........ I'll PM you.........
Troy
Quote from: PocketThunder on November 27, 2006, 11:49:34 AM
all stock wire harness? I'm glad the car didnt burn up.
Yeah, the harness both in the engine and dash are stock.. The underdash is original while the engine looks like it was replaced with an NOS one many many moons ago....
Troy
Wow - that is lucky! I think that you've convinced me to put one of those quick disconnect battery connectors on mine. :o
I had a similar situation with starting the Daytona in April 2005. Smoke from under the dash, and a full discharge on the ammeter with the key in the ON position. Same deal. Run out, and pull the battery terminal.
The wire harness running between the wiper motor to the ammeter was fried. As I understand it, the ammeter gets full amperage, which is living dangerously. I replaced the engine harness and wired in a fusable link to the ammeter, but I thought there was a more proper fix for this. Scared the bejeezus outta me, as I'm sure it did you.
Quote from: DougSchellinger on November 27, 2006, 12:10:32 PM
I had a similar situation with starting the Daytona in April 2005. Smoke from under the dash, and a full discharge on the ammeter with the key in the ON position. Same deal. Run out, and pull the battery terminal.
The wire harness running between the wiper motor to the ammeter was fried. As I understand it, the ammeter gets full amperage, which is living dangerously. I replaced the engine harness and wired in a fusable link to the ammeter, but I thought there was a more proper fix for this. Scared the bejeezus outta me, as I'm sure it did you.
Yeap, the connection between the bulkhead connection and the amp gauge is direct.. I'm thinking of placing, under the dash so it isn't visble, an in-line fuze between the bulkhead connection and amp gauge.. I'll just have to figure out how many amps of a fuze to use..... You're right, it did scare the bejeezus out of me... But, she's home now...
Daddy will help her.. :icon_smile_big:
Troy
Troy, sorry to hear of your troubles, let me know if you need anything, I'll look through my extra stuff and see if I can help. You will probably find that your amp gauge is at the center of you problems. Every electron that flows through the car goes through that gauge. There was a good article on how to replace it with a volt meter in one of the Mopar mags this year, I'll dig it out for you. The other thing that is Charger specific is the headlight switch, they had a tendency to overheat. Best thing to do is wire in a relay so the juice for the lamps doesn't go through the switch. Good luck with her, glad you and the car are safe and sound. Let me know if there is anything you need buddy!
I have had this kind of electrical experiences on my own cars for years .And customers cars I rewired.Found these to be the troublesome areas.Bulkhead connections on both sides clean and tight same goes for terminals on backside of fuse box.Amp gauges I bypass them .If you have one it is insulated by the factory in a metal dash housing by paper.I insulated them better than factory method with a short cut piece of vacuum hose on the gauge stud.If it does happen to slide down.And loose connections that carries power cause resistance.It will not blow a fuse or fusible link.It will heat up and give you a plastic smell.This happens alot at the headlight switch and dimmer switch connections.Another bad area is where the fusible link has been bypassed.I had a car with a short in the marker light.Caused alot of damage .A bad regulator or field wire will set the engine harness on fire .Will quickly spread inside
Wow..Glad you saved it Troy !
I recall a F6 daytona that had a wiring harness that scared me :yesnod: .But it was replaced.But watch out for those 68 charger wiring harnesses .Your parking lights wont stay on 68 lights go out 69 lights stay on .Anyone remember a older posting guy had a superbird in GA parked in garage.And underhood fire kicked off..On my 70 coronet I had a electrical problem reached back and felt connections on amp gauge.Got loose and it was hot from resistance.Causing intermitant connection
I took all the connections off the bulkhead connection about 2 years ago and checked for fit. I'm a real stickler on male/female fits. I wire brushed all terminal ends made sure there were good connection... Dave, know whatcha mean about the amp gauge terminals.. I make sure all my insulation is in good repair.. I did that about a year ago when I detailed the instrument gauges, albeit it doesn't mean it could have gone south since then.. I'll dive into Dana later on this week....
Thanks all for your comments and suggestions.......
Troy
Troy, Man that was a scary story. Ironically, I was thinking about you and Dana this weekend. Was a year ago that we attended the show in Houston and first met you. Since I wasn't worried about originality, I replaced the amp gauge in my chal convert with a voltage gauge. In fact, I replaced all of the gauges with Autometer gauges since I wanted to make sure that everything worked well since I didn't want to hurt my new 426 hemi. I have a low mileage 70 Barracuda gran coupe in storage that was retired early in it's life due to electrical problems. Upon removing the cluster we found a burned amp gauge. Now I'm totally paranoid about electrical problems. I went out and bought fire extinguishers for all of my cars. I keep one right behind each of the driver's seats. I also installed the quick disconnects on the ground side of the batteries.
Glad everything turned out okay.
:scared: sorry to hear that Troy :o like the other guys said could of been a lot worse ,
Here are some pics of the engine harness.. I tried taking some of the dash, but it was too cumbersome. I did check it out and the harness has a nice burnt section in a couple of places... Grrrrrrrrrrr
(http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL832/3604684/7419688/208682374.jpg)
(http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL832/3604684/7419688/208682375.jpg)
Troy, that sure sounded scary. Glad you saved it. :2thumbs: Although that magical shirt you're wearing might have had something to do with the save. :icon_smile_wink:
Here is how I solved that problem 14yrs ago.Had the same thing happen to my Superbird.Take apiece of fuse link about 2" long.Male one end,female on the other.Put it between the field wire and field terminal.It will go before any damage can go anywhere else.It is usually the field that shorts but you can also use one on the battery connection.Sort of like putting the cart before the horse but it works..
Your lucky man. I would of been devestated if I lost that thing!
Geez Troy, that sounded like a very hairy experience. I hope that you can get her back on the road soon. Glad to hear that you're alright, considering.
I keep reading about this happening on the forum all the time. I'm really glad that the insurance company made me go out and buy a fire extinguisher for my car.
Looks like the best prevention will be to stop it before it happens to me too. First thing is to put the fusible links and shut-off switches in the system like everyone has mentioned above (great tips everyone!). Then, go out and buy a new harness. These cars are just too valuable to take a chance with 30+ year old wires!!!
So, after all this, how was Autorama? I totally forgot about it this year.
Phil
You can do all necessary procedures and mopar electrical system will bite you After the melt down the hottest wire usually one .Without the insulation is your suspect
I'm going with 100% new harnesses and having Redline convert my Ampmeter to VDO to avoid fires.
Wow! There just isn't anything else to add that hasn't already been said. I'm glad both you and the car came through relatively unscathed. Just... wow!
Glad to hear it wasn't terribly bad. Makes me note that I need to do some work on my 500 now too though.
Did you have an aftermarkety alternator on the car? Just curious? I put a new alternator on the 500 this summer, and whenever I drive it the amp meter is pegged out. Just curious if this is the same situation that you had? If so I want to remedy it before the same thing happens. Know what I mean.
Danny, is it a single or dual field alt?
single.
short and sweet answers tonight. :)
Quote from: 69_500 on November 28, 2006, 08:03:25 PM
Did you have an aftermarkety alternator on the car? Just curious? I put a new alternator on the 500 this summer, and whenever I drive it the amp meter is pegged out. Just curious if this is the same situation that you had? If so I want to remedy it before the same thing happens. Know what I mean.
Danny..
The alternator I had was a remanufactered version from my local auto parts store, single field.... My alt. gauge pegged negative just before it blew.. So, if it's up for the winter, you may wanna take the advise others are giving me and do something.. I'm calling http://www.redlinegaugeworks.com/ tomorrow to talk to them about there conversions of the alt. gauge to a voltmeter using the same face...... I have a few extra alt. gauges to do this with...........
Troy
Sorry for the thread hijack but since it's related and we don't want it to become a "me too" thread, when was the last time you cleaned the terminals in the bulkhead connector?
Quote from: Ghoste on November 29, 2006, 04:31:55 AM
Sorry for the thread hijack but since it's related and we don't want it to become a "me too" thread, when was the last time you cleaned the terminals in the bulkhead connector?
Thoroughly about 2 years ago... I'm real anal about that spot.. Now that I'm learning more about it all, I'm starting to think my amp gauge met it's maker and there was nothing I could have done to avoid it.......
I always have my negative lead to the battery on hand tight so its easy to pull of plus i carry a spanner for the battery terminal just in case its needed.Glad you and the car are fine it could of ended up heeps worth .
Just got off the phone with redline and it's $100 for the conversion.. You use your gauge and the original face.. You have to send off minimally your instrument cluster with the circuit board and gauge... I'll send off one here probably after the holidays... I guess I'll get to ripping into Dana now... NO CHARGER TO DRIVE !!!!!! :icon_smile_sad:
Troy
Actually you can still start it up If you have to .And move around a car with no cluster in the car as I done before pictured below.Join the 2 amp gauge wires together with a nut and bolt and tape it up.This completes the circuit and also by passes the amp gauge.
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e67/75414/wiringfix.jpg)
Quote from: nascarxx29 on November 29, 2006, 01:54:02 PM
Actually you can still start it up If you have to .And move around a car with no cluster in the car as I done before pictured below.Join the 2 amp gauge wires together with a nut and bolt and tape it up.This completes the circuit and also by passes the amp gauge.
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e67/75414/wiringfix.jpg)
Yeap, I know that Dave.......... Unfortunately, the damage to the harnesses is pretty bad. I'm not taking any more chances.. She'll be nice and comfy in the garage until I get her going again..........
Thanks for the suggestion though...........
Troy
Sounds good I think MH makes a nice rally dash repo wiring harness.I used to get mine out of junkyard chargers.Now you can get one from aftermarket somewhere around $489.00 last I heard
http://www.wiringharness.com/
For whats under the hood you can't do any better.Quality and price.
http://evanswiring.tripod.com/index.html
I had gotten a 70 b body engine harness from Bill & Rose Evan.With the electronic ignition incorporated.Was nice not to have to splice the harness that came with the DC ignition distributor kit
Quote from: nascarxx29 on November 29, 2006, 04:44:56 PM
http://www.wiringharness.com/
Dave,
These guys only sell via YearOne... From what I know they don't sell to John-Q public... They do come with a great reputation though.....
Troy
Quote from: 62 Max on November 29, 2006, 05:21:44 PM
For whats under the hood you can't do any better.Quality and price.
http://evanswiring.tripod.com/index.html
I might check these guys out.. Thanks for the link........ I'm keeping the original dual-point distributor in Dana......
Troy
I know a guy from my area thats in the non mopar wiring aftermarket.If I needed anything electrical. stuff that may work on a mopar.You can also go petronix and loose the points in the prestolite dist.I have a bucket full of these prestolite distributors.All have shaft play causes point variation
http://www.americanautowire.com/
I rewired my entire 68 with the ZZ-20 harness from www.itsasnapwireandcable.com but it took me several months of nights and weekends and it was a pain in the ass. I'll spend the $$$ next time and buy one already done exactly for Chargers. But it was a learning experience. This harness is more set up for rewiring a street rod with a sbc.
Sound like one of those painless wiring kits .Its universal has modern little plug in fuses.But you got alot of extra length to shorten route and tape up
Quote from: 69charger383 on November 27, 2006, 07:49:55 PM
Your lucky man. I would of been devestated if I lost that thing!
:iagree:
No kidding I love that car.
T... I am glad things worked out allright....
Good luck with fixin' things!
Grtz Marcel
Quote from: hemi68charger on November 29, 2006, 12:08:03 PM
Just got off the phone with redline and it's $100 for the conversion.. You use your gauge and the original face.. You have to send off minimally your instrument cluster with the circuit board and gauge... I'll send off one here probably after the holidays... I guess I'll get to ripping into Dana now... NO CHARGER TO DRIVE !!!!!! :icon_smile_sad:
Troy
Troy, what exactly does the conversion actually do? I'm under the assumption it prevents all those amps from directly flowing through the ammeter?
Quote from: DougSchellinger on December 01, 2006, 10:18:38 AM
Quote from: hemi68charger on November 29, 2006, 12:08:03 PM
Just got off the phone with redline and it's $100 for the conversion.. You use your gauge and the original face.. You have to send off minimally your instrument cluster with the circuit board and gauge... I'll send off one here probably after the holidays... I guess I'll get to ripping into Dana now... NO CHARGER TO DRIVE !!!!!! :icon_smile_sad:
Troy
Troy, what exactly does the conversion actually do? I'm under the assumption it prevents all those amps from directly flowing through the ammeter?
Doug,
I'm not exactly sure, but they do want the instrument cluster frame with the circuit board attached and of course, the amp gauge to be converted.. I'm assuming they will be putting volt-meter "mechanical hardware" in lew of the original amp hardware behind the gauge and then feeding off the 12V input to the voltage limiter.. You take your red and black wires that originally went to the amp gauge and connect them and heat shrink for protection, thus completing the circuit. The original gauge wire I believe can handle the amperage, it's the OEM amp gauge itself that gets old and can't handle it.. Them claim that the gauge maintains it's original look, including needle..........
Troy
Check out Mopar Collectors Guide June 2006. They have a whole article on dash fires and the culprit is always the ammeter getting fried. They cover how Redline Gauge Works does conversions to German VDO voltmeters that look stock but are more accurate and eliminate the risk of fires.
I wonder though if they are able to them for 1st gens with el lighting? I'll have to contact them and find out.
What are you talking about Ghoste, who cares about those first gen chargers.
Only kidding.
I do as long as I run the risk of having one burn down on me. :icon_smile_wink:
Ah let it go, and get a 500 instead.
Sure, go ahead and prey on my weaknesses.
Ah its not a weakness.
Its more a sickness, I have the same one.
I'm just sick about any aero cars. well the dodge ones anyways.
I know how it feels, driving around in the '68 R/T I noticed the fuel psi gauge cutting out and popping back, then smoke comes out from under the dash and I smell that distinct electrical fire smell. Pull off the road real quick, turn the car off, jump out, and since the battery is in the trunk I scramble back there to find the right key to get it open to disconnect the negative cable. Scary moment.
What happened was the wire going to the electric fuel pump shorted out from rubbing on the frame and since it had no fuse and was tied into the ignition side of the voltage regulator, it burned that ignition wire up all under the hood and all the way back into under the dash up to the ignition switch. Thought I was going to have to get a complete harness but I was able to do some surgery and just replace that one wire, no real damage to any of the other ones.
Glad everything is ok Troy!!
I truly love that 500!!!
Not a fan too much of the 2nd gens but that 500 is gorgeous in person!!!
Troy sorry to hear of your misfortune but very glad you all and Dana are going to be OK.
Kelly was shocked and very concerned when she heard.(Scott returned an email of hers and told her about your misfortune).
Mike
Well, the insurance company called me Friday and will have a 3rd party come out to verify the damage... They want an estimate or two for repairs.. I'll do that, but also for me and my time..... As any of you would think, I trust ME................ Crossing fingers..... Oh, I have a dedutable of $4. ;D
Do you want us to take up a collection to cover the deductible for you?
By the way Troy, did you get those DVD's I mailed to you?
Quote from: 69_500 on December 11, 2006, 08:05:26 PM
Do you want us to take up a collection to cover the deductible for you?
By the way Troy, did you get those DVD's I mailed to you?
Hey Danny,,
Yeap, got the DVD's,, Thanks.. You should have had an email about that.... Looks like the insurance is going to cover everything and pay me to work on my own car.... Shot, my labor isn't free.. :icon_smile_big: The extra dough will help pay for the amp-2-volt conversion...
Troy
Hope you enjoy the DVD's. and hope that you get Dana back out on the road soon.
Here is the back-side.. Slipped the dash out last night to further along Dana's recovery.... That sucker got hot big time.. Those studs and nuts for the amp gauge WERE nice and shiny.. Now, heat has caused all the plating to come off and oxidation to start........
Troy
I see your problem Troy. Its not in the car, and someone cut the wires. :)
ONly kidding.
Looks like it got fried pretty good.
Man, that could have gotten real ugly really fast.
Cant tell you the numbers of time I had that kind of amp gauge damage happen .And other cars that had that same damage i had to fix.Due to amp gauge issues
where are you getting the voltmeter from again?
I need to get two of them.
Quote from: PocketThunder on January 08, 2007, 09:53:42 AM
where are you getting the voltmeter from again?
I need to get two of them.
http://www.redlinegaugeworks.com/
About $100 and they need your cluster frame, the printed-circuit board in place and amp gauge...
WOW That is a beautiful car, glad it will live to cruise another day!
Quote from: pettyfan43 on January 09, 2007, 11:29:33 PM
WOW That is a beautiful car, glad it will live to cruise another day!
Ahh, shucks... :icon_smile:
Hey gang....
Well, finally got everything from YearOne and redlinegauges yesterday.... The harnesses, both engine and underdash are made by M&H Electric Fabricators, Inc.... Their work looks to be top-notch..... We'll see after it's all installed and fired up....... Also, got the restored amp-2volt conversion from RedlineGauges. Man-oh-man, it looks great.. I may have to spend the big bucks on their process for the '68.......
Obviously, the volt conversion causes the needle to be in the position shown, so when the engine's not running, the needles not straight up like in the amp gauges.. But, that's a small price to pay for safety.... Also, I had them reface the gauge like OEM. They do offer a volt scale... I'll touch up the stop in black so it's not visible with it all together.....
Troy
So what are the readings on the amp guage in correlation to the actual volt meter reading?
Quote from: PocketThunder on February 24, 2007, 11:16:52 AM
So what are the readings on the amp guage in correlation to the actual volt meter reading?
Paul,
I'm not sure what exactly what the relationship is, but I'm sure I can find out.. I'll probably apply 12 volts to the gauge with my test set and see what the response is...... I do know though, that I'll know if things aren't charging or not by the deflection of the needle......
Troy
Judging from gauges on other cars, I bet that right near the +20 mark will be 12 volts.
Troy,..........it's good to see your car ( Dana? ???) back "on the road" to recoverery!.............yes it could have been worst!, let it be a leason in building, or maintaining your present car(s)...........It's well worth the lousy $800-$1000 to replace the underdash, engine harness, light forward harness.and rear harness, with a quality product from M&H electrics (via Year One only.........exclusive licsence/ trademark) versus the thousands of dollars, or possible life that you may lose!..................30+ year old wiring, low mileage, or in the box NOS, is inferior to the quality of todays manufactured wire, and related products,....................but you see it all the time, thousands spent on engines, body,paint, interiors,etc........but junkyard, partscar, or original wiring still intact..........spend the mony, be safe,.........a common mistake a lot of guys make is in the alternator, by adding an alternator capable of 80-125 amps, the factory voltage regulator design, and ampmeter are designed to opperate at 60 amps or less,.............if you want a higher amp alt, design/rewire the car to handle it,............................also rebuilt alternaters,.........most rebuilders are replacing the pulleys with a smaller diameter, this is fine for street crusers, but high rpm, highway driving now maxes the output of the alternater, taxing your electrical system,.................promaster now has New Resto line of alternaters,with new castings!new internals,NOS appearing, not rebuilt crap! alternators for around $100.............cheap! .......and with a correct sized pulley, to avoid excessive overcharging, and another great update, would be the Pertronix conversion, everything fits under the stock distrbutor cap, don't cheap out buy the recommended flamethower coil, and should you decide to return to point(s), everything screws back together!..................................Good Luck Troy! in getting ..........ahh........Dana? back on the road
here are some progress pics from this morning......
Dash harness in place and the dash cluster all buttoned up with new amp-2-volt gauge......
Sorry,,, Had to use the hemi as background............ :icon_smile_big:
looking good....................................................................................Troy!
Hey Troy, looks like Dana will be back up and running before you know it.
Well, got her up and running last night......... Didn't take her for a spin, but she's running nonetheless..... I'll take her out tonight after work maybe........
Here's an engine pic and video (my 1st).. Sorry for being at night............
Dana fired up video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aLAmCQ76bE)
Troy
So who was the big winner on Wheel Of Fortune??
Great video by the way, Dana sounds great!! Glad to see it fixed with minimum damage it appears too.
v/r
Mike
Quote from: mikepmcs on February 27, 2007, 08:45:19 AM
So who was the big winner on Wheel Of Fortune??
Great video by the way, Dana sounds great!! Glad to see it fixed with minimum damage it appears too.
v/r
Mike
Thanks Mike............ Ahhhhhhhhh, Wheel of Fortune? Are you referring to my luck at the lack of damage?
No it sounded like that's what was on the TV in the background.
But I like your answer better. :icon_smile_big: :2thumbs:
v/r
Mike
Awe man Troy, after watching that video and hearing that exhaust and seeing those taillights.... I'm stoked! I have no more excuses but to get my car going this summer.
Was that a TDC registry shirt? What happend to the dash lights?
Quote from: PocketThunder on February 27, 2007, 09:12:37 AM
Awe man Troy, after watching that video and hearing that exhaust and seeing those taillights.... I'm stoked! I have no more excuses but to get my car going this summer.
Was that a TDC registry shirt? What happend to the dash lights?
They work fine..... Just that the lighting sucked and my little camera/video doesn't do a good job when there's low-lighting in video-mode.......... I'll take another one if I can with me driving her..... In the daylight... The shirt I believe was one of my Mopar Collector Guide shirts........ That's right, no excuse !!!! Your '68's done now..................
Troy
thats great Troy getting Dana running :yesnod: sounds good . would like to see more video of DANA :popcrn:......... :thumbs:
That's great Troy, I know you're relieved!
:thumbs:
Have you figured out what was keeping your dash lights from working? Hope it's something simple.
**Edit** Just read your earlier reply and saw that the dash lights are OK - that's good... I'm too slow at the keyboard first thing in the morning I suppose.
HMMM.... probably the dash dimmer switch :yesnod:
Lookin good man! Im glad you got her going.....I havent looked at mine in 3 months :(
Troy,
Nice to hear her running again. Happily nothing really bad happened to the car and that it was a relatively easy fix ( relatively )
Greetz Marcel
Congrats Troy, you just made me go down stairs open up the garage and fire up my 500. Which is the first its been started since October.