Although I appreciate and dream about B bodies, I'm a hardcore E-body guy. But wanted to share a video I made about restoring original bolts and fasteners that might help my fellow Mopar brothers.
https://youtu.be/7vTn6l5h67A
Always appreciate the positive feedback and thumbs up! Thanks for letting me share my love and passion for Mopars!
Thanks for the video. Looks pretty simple. :2thumbs:
:2thumbs: great video :cheers:
:2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
Nice! Thanks!
Very cool! Thanks for sharing. :cheers:
Where did you buy the black Oxide?
I get it from Caswell Plating. http://www.caswellplating.com/black-oxide-concentrate-1-pint.html
Quote from: 1970Moparmann on August 14, 2016, 12:47:29 AM
Very cool! Thanks for sharing. :cheers:
Where did you buy the black Oxide?
Excellent job Cody. I used the Eastwood kit to do up some of my hardware - but it comes with a lot of fluff and hence costs a little more. Carefully cleaning your hardware, using the Caswell solution, then using WD or oil to seal will save a lot of cash in the long run. I will be sharing this video over on the Road Runner Nest.
Scott.
Nice DIY video. Easy to follow & produced a great result!
Great video!
Excellent how-to video!
I've used the Eastwood blackening solution before as well, looks to be a similar product? Worked great, easy to do at home too. It can be used on many parts, not just nuts and bolts. A lesser soak can duplicate heat treating on cast suspension parts, steering arms, etc.
WD-40 is a great sealer, I've also used a matte clear with excellent results also. They've retained their finish for many years.
Since this is such a great thread.... :cheers:
What about doing something something similar with silver and natural colors? :popcrn:
I have been painting bolts for years. :2thumbs: This is faster, more durable, and just so easy!! Thanks for posting!!
:coolgleamA: clever stuff :2thumbs: :cheers:
How would this work for bolts that would need to be painted? I assume not well, as they will have traces of oil.
Weren't all the fender bolts painted from the factory?
Will this process eliminate rust?
Yes, you would not want to do this to any bolt that you plan to paint. The best way to paint a bolt is the same way you paint a car.
This method is a fast affordable way to get a factory correct looking bolt without having to send it out to be professionally phosphated. It will hold up okay to rust, but even the factory bolts rusted over time. If you really like the look and do not want to use oil, you can clear coat them with a satin clear in place of the oil.
Quote from: mopar4don on August 24, 2017, 02:39:53 PM
How would this work for bolts that would need to be painted? I assume not well, as they will have traces of oil.
Weren't all the fender bolts painted from the factory?
Will this process eliminate rust?
Thanks CODY
Video and outcome looks great. I've just been trying to get my hands on some black oxide, but been told by a supplier that this is not a good option for bolts under tension, and that they would suffer from "hydrogen embrittlement" :'( Anyone with educated opinions on this? :popcrn:
I'm usually more concerned about smaller parts with embrittlement than bolts, but I'll pop them in the oven (when the wifes out, natch).
Post-plating baking: Baking the part immediately after plating can reverse the effects of hydrogen embrittlement in most cases. General guidelines call for baking the part for four hours at a temperature of 375º F within one hour of plating. Most steels typically require a lower temperature in the range of 200-300º F.
The title of that video is odd, since black oxide and phosphate are two different types of finishes. Black oxide is also known as "bluing;" it's the same finish that's traditionally used for firearms. Phosphate is also known as "Parkerizing;" which is commonly used on military firearms, starting around WWII.
If you just want black oxide it's easy to do at home and you probably don't have to buy anything; it's especially easy if the bolt you started with originally had a black oxide finish (rather than Parkerized) and just has some light surface rust (red oxide). In that case, you just boil the bolt in ordinary water. The heat converts the red oxide to black oxide. This is the original/traditional method of bluing; it's known as "rust bluing;" people have been doing it for hundreds of years. If starting with bare steel you would rapidly induce rust with some solution (e.g., hydrogen peroxide and salt), then you would boil the steel part, then you could card off the excess oxide with, e.g., steel wool, and repeat the process until it's as black as you want it. There's an article about the process here:
http://mypeculiarnature.blogspot.com/2014/08/quick-rust-bluing-back-in-black.html