How easy do these go in? I get them started but can't get them to go very far with a wrench, do they need an impact to install? I don't want to have a cross-thread issue. This is on a 68, thanks!
Matt
On my '68 they threaded in really easily. Have you thoroughly cleaned the threads on your control arm?
I had them powdercoated and there is a light coating on the threads. It didn't look like it would be enought to cause problems but I will see if I can get a wire brush in there and see if that helps.
Upper ball joints are supposed to be hard to install. The UCAs did not have threads when they were new, the ball joints cut itheir own threads when they were installed. The manufacturers that make replacement ball joints make them a little oversized so they cut new threads deeper into the UCA. It's very hard to get them to follow the original threads if you are lucky enough to actually have any. Many of these old cars have had the ball joints removed and replaced a few times and the threads are totally stripped out, which is why the manufacturers make them oversized. I would be leary of driving a car if the ball joints threaded in easily. I don't know if I would try an impact wrench, but I would recommend the right socket if you don't have one. Your local NAPA store should have one for about $15.
A big 'cheater' bar helps..........get some leverage on that thing.
BBD
I got the socket from American Muscle but I also have them off of the car so I don't have much leverage either.
Although many people get away with it, I would avoid using an impact wrench...once the threads are stripped out the UCA is junk. I install them in a bench vice with a standard 3/4" drive ratchet.
I installed new ones for CB just a little over a week ago.
The new ones went in TOUGH. I installed them in a bench vise and had to pull my wrench hard (in the end the whole bench moved from its place)
But Be sure to have the hole in the UCA clean so get rid of that powder coat for sure.
If I would be able to turn them in by hand, I'd be scared to ever drive that car....Your life depends on that suspesion, you don't want it to come loose doing 70 on the interstate :o
Thanks for the input guys, I will try and get that powder coat off and see how it goes. :2thumbs:
Matt
At what point would you consider them 'junk'. I had my UCA ball joints removed and I was less than pleased with the shape the threads were in. If new ball joints are indeed bigger and self cutting, then the poor shape of the threads shouldn't matter as much right?
For the record, don't assume that because I said mine went in easily I threaded them in with a flick of my hand and think they should be able to be hand threaded. I don't know where that came from. OBVIOUSLY that would be a bad thing. :eyes: Control arms on the car, breaker bar and then the torque wrench.
I've put them in with a Impact & made my own new threads. So far so good. LEON.
How about a big ass pipe wrench.
How about just knocking down the threads on the replacement balljoints a little bit?
30 years ago I had to tack weld an upper ball joint in to get to where I was going on the old Charger.
On Black Betty I replaced the UCA's w/ FF tubulars for no other reason than I wanted to avoid problems later on even tho the ball joints looked OK. And they looked cool. And some stuff about caster blah blah blah. ;D
A few weeks later I got a call from Speedo down in Carlisle w/ the 68 X rag that the replacement upper ball joint had popped out and the X rag was limped onto the trailer to go home. I gave him my old A arms to fix it.
Last week I got my old Charger back and I looked under and saw the tack welded upper ball joint :smilielol:
I'll put another set of tubulars on Sinnamon before it hits the road again.
Quote from: yeahitsgotahemi! on August 18, 2009, 02:59:23 PM
If new ball joints are indeed bigger and self cutting, then the poor shape of the threads shouldn't matter as much right?
Unless the ones removed were oversized replacement parts, with cars this old it's likely that the suspension components have been replaced multiple times.