Hello everyone, I'm new to this board but old to Mopars, I already have 3 mopars currently and just purchased a '70 Charger. I'm going to build a Pro Street Daytona and have been reading up on some of the posts trying to get familiar with what it's going to take to acheive my desired effect.
I guess one question would be what would be the best nose and wing to use. I was thinking the Stinger because it's cheaper and I don't care about getting a true and correct clone because it's going to be a pro street car and since it will be used for drag racing, lighter is better as well. I've read some posts that don't recommend a fiberglass wing over certain speeds but I do plan on going fast so is that really a concern. Also, I would like working headlights and that seems to be a tricky area to get right. Can the nose be bought anywhere complete, assembled and working? Anyway, this seems to be the right place to go for answers on a winged car project so once again hello to all.
hello :wave: & welcome :cheers: .............. would be intrested to see pictures , of your prostreet Daytona clone as you progress :popcrn: :yesnod:
howdy 1meanfish and welcome :cheers:
Welcome to the board.The only Pro street daytona car I seen and got a picture .I have is from the mopar nats.Car belonged to Wally Elder
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b229/Annie75414/show2.jpg)
Welcome!!!! Can't wait to see some pics of it. What colour scheme do you plan on doing?
Quote from: nascarxx29 on November 27, 2007, 07:59:00 PM
Welcome to the board.The only Pro street daytona car I seen and got a picture .Ii have is from the mopar nats.Car belonged to Wally Elder
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b229/Annie75414/show2.jpg)
That's a sick looking car and kind of what I'm going for. A radical drag car I can drive to the track that is like nothing anyone else has.
Here is a pic of my Charger that I'll be starting with. Back half car, fully tubbed, Dana 60, rack and pinion front end, funny car cage, and perfect paint and body already done. All I need to add is the nose, wing, a 1500-1800hp F3 Procharged Hemi and I'm off to the races! I'm not going to do the rear plug right away. Sometime in the future when it's due for a paint job I'll probably do that. I'd love to have it done to really complete the look but it seems like that takes a lot of time and work and 99.98% of the people out there won't know the difference anyway. Oh, and yes the cowl hood will not stay. I hate those on a Mopar anyway but that one is WAY to big and ugly if you ask me.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc131/1meanfish/7880398346234.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc131/1meanfish/3594541267520.jpg)
Welcome to the board.
Ron Jenkins has the most bada** pro street daytona that I've ever seen. Hope yours turns out that nice.
Contact Dane for a hollow aluminum wing. Light yet strong.
Check with Larry O'Donnell (daytonalo on this site) about building you a complete working nose. They're not cheap when they're done right.
Good luck and keep us posted.
:icon_smile_big:
Welcome to the site, and, OMG! that hood scoop on the 70 is huuuuge!! :o :icon_smile_big:
The magnumforce racing daytona started life as a 68 charger.They did some nice work building it
http://www.magnumforce.com/
Welcome! good luck with your project!
Welcome to the board................ Good luck on the Pro-Street project and look forward on news of your progress......
Troy
Quote from: hotrod98 on November 27, 2007, 10:24:33 PM
Welcome to the board.
Ron Jenkins has the most bada** pro street daytona that I've ever seen. Hope yours turns out that nice.
Contact Dane for a hollow aluminum wing. Light yet strong.
Check with Larry O'Donnell (daytonalo on this site) about building you a complete working nose. They're not cheap when they're done right.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I've seen pics of that car before and it does look bad. I don't like the way they did the nose but other than that it's sweet. I've toyed with the roots blower route because they do have the wow effect but I'm probably going to go with an F3 Procharger on a Hemi. I built a rather mild F1 416 small block for my '67 Barracuda and got 900hp while keeping A/C, P/S, P/B. So I'm a firm believer of the Prochargers. I'm shooting for 1800+ range. How do I get in touch with Dane? And daytonalo, can you give me an estimate on a complete nose. We can talk about the best route for my kind of project. I will have a pretty large cam so I'm not sure if vacume headlights will work well. Can you do electric? Anyway, thanks to everyone for the input.
QuoteI don't like the way they did the nose
:yesnod: i don't like the nose either
If Dane doesn`t chime in send him a pm. I have one of his hollow aluminum wings and love it. My son likes to stand on it. It is a little heavier than a janak wing and I have it on the car right now with no wing washers or supports and my quarter panels dont sag. :icon_smile_big: My gut maybe :Twocents:
Beautiful car as is, but will be a beast in the near future! Welcome to the board and I'm really looking forward to seeing your project come together...
...and thanks for the business - I'm happy to be able to supply you with a big piece of your puzzle!
Brandon
Quote from: bzabodyn on November 28, 2007, 01:32:26 PM
Beautiful car as is, but will be a beast in the near future! Welcome to the board and I'm really looking forward to seeing your project come together...
...and thanks for the business - I'm happy to be able to supply you with a big piece of your puzzle!
Brandon
ahhh now we know where his wing is going
So did anyone here kitbash the AMT/ERTL daytona and coronet pro street kits? I have one half baked...
Whatever happened to wally elders pro street daytona :shruggy:. I haven`t heard of it being around at all.
I saw Wallys daytona at the nats between 1982-1994.Never seen it again .There was a yellow superbird clone that was pro street.It had PROZAC on its plate.I think have another picture of a daytona replica that went off the radar
I have a set of GTO vacuum pods that I've been planning to use on my clone, but have toyed with the idea of using 12 volt dc electric actuators. I've found a source for the correct actuator. It has the correct force and stroke. But, if you decide to go with the vacuum style setup, you might be able to use a vacuum pump.
Personally, I think that a properly engineered electric actuator would be the most reliable way to go.
Another daytona replica
(http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b229/Annie75414/CHRGER.jpg)
I value you judgement Larry ! I have a simple motto , KISS , KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID !!! Vacuum is as simple as can be , go with electric and you have poss issues with motor , and you have to engineer stops up and down so motor wont burn out . New vacuum pods are dirt cheap , and will work easily for our lifetime and beyond !!!
Larry :icon_smile_big:
Here are some pics I took at "Mopars At The Strip" (first show)
I also have come up with a new style vacuum switching valve for the OE style headlight vacuum operating system. Just in case you are trying to find an original headlight switch.
Bryan
The linear acuators are $60 each, pull less than 4 amps and will hold the headlamp assembly in the open or closed position without any vibration. They have self contained internal stops, are waterproof and should last quite a while since they're not used all that often. They will work whether the engine's running or not and are not affected by vacuum leaks. Besides, you don't have to worry about the pods leaking off and having those headlamps slowly opening while parked. That's kind of embarrassing when showing the car at the local car show.
I haven't ruled out using the GTO pods yet. Just kind of curious about the actuators. Thinking about using them just to see if they will work.
I like doing things a little different sometimes. :yesnod:
The only upside to using the linear acuators.As vacuum works well enough :Would be if you could raise or lower the headlights with a key fob operation. :icon_smile_big:
Quote from: hotrod98 on November 28, 2007, 09:07:06 PM
The linear acuators are $60 each, pull less than 4 amps and will hold the headlamp assembly in the open or closed position without any vibration. They have self contained internal stops, are waterproof and should last quite a while since they're not used all that often. They will work whether the engine's running or not and are not affected by vacuum leaks. Besides, you don't have to worry about the pods leaking off and having those headlamps slowly opening while parked.
Larry, the linear acuators sound like the way to go on the the headlights system on a clone. On a stock system without the clocksprings attached the headlight bucket will never pop open until you start or turn on the headlight switch.
Ken
Quote from: nascarxx29 on November 28, 2007, 09:13:39 PM
The only upside to using the linear acuators.As vacuum works well enough :Would be if you could raise or lower the headlights with a key fob operation. :icon_smile_big:
That would be trick. May have to look into that.
Quote from: Hemi_tyme on November 28, 2007, 10:03:19 PM
Quote from: hotrod98 on November 28, 2007, 09:07:06 PM
The linear acuators are $60 each, pull less than 4 amps and will hold the headlamp assembly in the open or closed position without any vibration. They have self contained internal stops, are waterproof and should last quite a while since they're not used all that often. They will work whether the engine's running or not and are not affected by vacuum leaks. Besides, you don't have to worry about the pods leaking off and having those headlamps slowly opening while parked.
Larry, the linear acuators sound like the way to go on the the headlights system on a clone. On a stock system without the clocksprings attached the headlight bucket will never pop open until you start or turn on the headlight switch.
Ken
Ken, what were the clock springs actually installed for? Seems like I hear about the guys leaving them off a lot. Did they serve some purpose?
P.S. I love it when we say something that gets the wing car pros to respond. I always wonder if they're out there watching us. :icon_smile_big:
Larry, the purpose of the spring is to pop open the headlights in case of vacuum failure while driving at night.
Ken
I guess that means there's a lot of wingcar owners out there driving at night praying that there's no vacuum failure. No headlights means no more wingcar. :scratchchin:
Quote from: hotrod98 on November 28, 2007, 11:59:04 PM
I guess that means there's a lot of wingcar owners out there driving at night praying that there's no vacuum failure. No headlights means no more wingcar. :scratchchin:
Eh... slow down and they stay up. Have you guys pushed down on a headlight while the car's running? They're stiff!