what tool requires the least effort and works the fastest to sand down factory paint to metal?
I'm using a electric disk sander with 220 grit right now and it seems to take forever, no I dont have a compressor yet.
I'm an amateur myself, but I've heard a lot of guys recommending 80 grit, with some liking 120.
Too coarse, and you will gouge the metal. Too fine, and you will not have a rough enough surface for the paint to "bite" and stick to, and be seemingly forever getting the paint off.
Technique is important to. Spend of the sander should not be too high. Also, stay too long in one spot, and you will heat up the metal, clogging your disk quickly. You also risk warping the body panel.
Another school of thought says save the wear and tear on your hands, elbows, and shoulders, and use chemical strippers. Problem with the strippers are the bad fumes, corrosive to your skin (will burn you), and the big mess they make you get to clean up.
Here is a short "Stripping Paint" thread that touches on both ways (though I'd question using 40 grit, too coarse?):
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=QuestionAnswer&Number=3167448&Searchpage=1&Main=3167165&Words=%26quot%3B80+grit%26quot%3B&topic=&Search=true#Post3167448
Here is an experienced auto body man's recommendations:
http://www.autobodystore.com/strip_&_paint.htm
They also sell the tools and supplies mentioned in the article:
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=SPAR
Personally I've used Aircraft Stripper available at paint stores and had great results although it's messy. The stuff has gone up in price and now it's about $30.00 a gallon or more times about 5 gallons or so. You also MUST wear a respirator or at least a filter mask and very heavy duty rubber gloves. It eats latex like nothing and chemical burns can be really nasty and painful.
You also need to dispose of it properly. Even though some don't like it I love it. I've used it to strip my airplane and 3 cars as well as motorcycle gas tanks for painting. I always go to bare steel and then work back up from there so I know what I have for a base. Just don't put it over fiberglass, it'll soften filler and fiberglass.
Costs a bit but saves a boat load of time and labor.
I am stripping the quarters on the 73 now. I started with 120 and found it to be very slow and time consuming, stuck some 80 on the old DA and it cuts right through all about 12 layers of paint. any scratches on the metal will be covered by a high fill epoxy primer.
try to get most of it with the 80 grit on a elec. sander and move around alot to avoid creating alot of heat when you have the bulk of it off move to the 120 and then go over it with a da sander with 180 or 220 this will provide a nice surface to spray epoxy onto .............i would try to say away from chemical strippers if you can UNLESS its something with no seams or you are very carful not to get it in the seams reason being is that its corrosive and if you cant get it out of the seam it will hurry the rusting process
what about a 4.5 angle grinder with one of those 3m pads?
Have it sand/soda blasted.. it's the only way. Be careful though, as too much media will profile the metal.
Paul
Quote from: CaymanSublime on March 15, 2007, 01:55:48 AM
Have it sand/soda blasted.. it's the only way. Be careful though, as too much media will profile the metal.
Paul
this is the best method if youre not "doing it youreself" buti kinda assumed you are i would highly rcomend sand blast pretty much everything except the outer sheetmetal and when i say outher sheetmetal that includes the back side of the panels too dont sand blast them of they WILL warp
I have used a sand blaster, but I have found it very tough to get all the sand out and when you go to prime the piece you get some of the media comming out of cracks and crevices
Yep, good advice both, you do need to be careful, and make sure someone who knows what they're doing carries out the media blasting. Also, needs much much clearing up... worth it for the finish though..
Paul
Not to hijack the question, but I was actually asking one too I suppose..would it be ok to use a 4.5 with a 3m scotch brite pad ..and be careful not to etch the metal or heat build up?
I have all my stcars sandblasted now. I've sanded 3 cars down by hand, no more. It's easier toload itup and haul it off to the blaster. Check into Soda blasting if you don't have any major rust issues. There are some mobile blasters out there. However, if you still want to sand the car yourself, use a DA and 40 grit to rip the paint off down to the original primer if it's still there. 40 grit won't do any damage to the metal as long as it is on a DA and not a regular grinder.
I plan to have mine blasted. I was quoted 500 for a mobile soda job. That only covered the outer shell and would be a few hundered more for a total job. Does anyone know if that sounds about right? I heard you can rinse the car and the soda disolves so it dont get blown out when it gets paint. There is a place that opened a few months ago near me and I haven't contacted them. I heard they do metal work and they put both rear quarters, trunk and did some rear window rust for 2500 :o. I am gonna go check the car out. I already did most of my metal though. A good longtime bodyman I know said it was a good job. Sounds to good to be true.
I paid $700 or $750 when I had my 69 sandblasted. I took it to them on a rotisserie as a bare shell, nothing left bolted on. They did the body inside and out, both doors, both fenders, and the grille support. I did not have them do the hood or trunk lid because I didn't want them warped since I can't replace them.
I had the parts I could remove acid dipped cost me $45 for the hood, $35 for fender, $25 per piece for front and back valance and deck lid. I am DA ing the quarters and doors to bare metal.
Quote from: BlueSS454 on March 15, 2007, 10:15:23 PM
I paid $700 or $750 when I had my 69 sandblasted. I took it to them on a rotisserie as a bare shell, nothing left bolted on. They did the body inside and out, both doors, both fenders, and the grille support. I did not have them do the hood or trunk lid because I didn't want them warped since I can't replace them.
Quote from: 41husk on March 16, 2007, 07:45:13 AM
I had the parts I could remove acid dipped cost me $45 for the hood, $35 for fender, $25 per piece for front and back valance and deck lid. I am DA ing the quarters and doors to bare metal.
Thanks guys. Mine is on a rottisorie now. It is 20' long on it. I would have to go rent a big trailer. I got time to think about it. I am still doing some metal work. Sorry to hijack this thread....carry on ;D
Hi guys, my landlord on the island runs a media blasting and painting firm (sweet). He quoted me CI$25 per sack of soda, and CI$6 per sack of sand. As we've discussed, soda is much more gentle, so can be used (with a skilled operator) without damage.
1US$ = 0.8CI$
He's well into the project, and will do the whole car for me.. he said 6 sacks to do the entire outside..