Tired of busted engine mounts....well there's an easy fix. I've been doing them this way for several years and never had a falure. :yesnod:
The driverside mount is the one that will seperate as the engine torques over and if there's a shroud on the radiator....then the fan will be taking it out which can be expensive and messy ! :flame:
This mod is required only on the driverside because the passenger side biscuit gets compressed during hard acceleration....so there's no need to work it. ;)
Basicly, what you'll be doing is drilling a few holes through the mount and rubber biscuit and installing grade 8 hardware. There are no torque straps or chains needed and the mount looks perfectly stock. :icon_smile_cool: I use a conical head bolt along with a flat washer and nylock nut to keep everything in place. The nylock will not back off or need to be retightened once it's installed. The idea is to just snug up the bolt so that there is:
(a) no compression on the rubber biscuit
(b) protection from seperation due to engine torqueing
You'll need some hardware ;
(1) a pair of 3/8 x 21/2 in grade 8 flathead bolts
(2) a pair of 3/8in "nylock" nuts and matching flat washers
(3) a good drill and 3/8in steel bit
Ron
Here's a few pics of the D/S modified mount :
That looks like the Schumacher mount I had, had one for awhile, can't remember how much he charges.
Dan
That's a great tip. Thanks. I love simple fixes that really work. :2thumbs:
Great tip Ron! Luckily when I was putting my motor back in I read a post a while back where someone was talking about motor mounts and I ran across this mod. Very easy to do.
Great idea! My 318 breaks a mount about every 2-3 years. Its getting about time! :icon_smile_sad:
Todd
Quote from: 8WHEELER on May 02, 2006, 10:11:55 PM
That looks like the Schumacher mount I had, had one for awhile, can't remember how much he charges.
Dan
Ya Dan....i like to call it the "poor man's" Schumacher mount :lol: An old drag racer showed me this trick many years ago and i've done it several times for myself and friends. The grade 8 hardware gives it the strength of a solid mount while the rubber continues to absorb drivetrain vibration. It's a win-win situation, inmo.
Steve, if anybody needed this fix....you do ! :icon_smile_big: Can't imagine a stock rubber mount lasting too long with that stroker ! :devil:
Ron
i have solid mounts, that fixes everything......no drilling, no buying bolts, just buy em and slap em in
I hate to say it but I had a Schumaker mount in my 69 and ripped both bolts trough the mount. The engine rolled over under the hood and left a big gouge in my hood. I remember launching a 1.80 60 Ft. in a 4000lb car and hearing the driveshaft hitting the drag loop. I let off and realized what happened. I went solid Moroso and solved the problem. The bolts you use look bigger than the Schumakers. I probably should have made one myself. Looks stronger.
Quote from: deputycrawford on May 03, 2006, 11:33:36 PM
I hate to say it but I had a Schumaker mount in my 69 and ripped both bolts trough the mount. The engine rolled over under the hood and left a big gouge in my hood. I remember launching a 1.80 60 Ft. in a 4000lb car and hearing the driveshaft hitting the drag loop. I let off and realized what happened. I went solid Moroso and solved the problem. The bolts you use look bigger than the Schumakers. I probably should have made one myself. Looks stronger.
There you go, I took out my Schumaker mount because it only had one bolt, I put 3 larger bolts in one of mine ;D
Dan
Quote from: deputycrawford on May 03, 2006, 11:33:36 PM
I hate to say it but I had a Schumaker mount in my 69 and ripped both bolts trough the mount. The engine rolled over under the hood and left a big gouge in my hood. I remember launching a 1.80 60 Ft. in a 4000lb car and hearing the driveshaft hitting the drag loop. I let off and realized what happened. I went solid Moroso and solved the problem. The bolts you use look bigger than the Schumakers. I probably should have made one myself. Looks stronger.
I guess my "poor man's" design is stronger than the schumaucher mount. :icon_smile_big: A pair of grade 8 3/8 in bolts has lotsa shear strength : not sure of the exact number but i know it's large. I would think the ear would tear off the block before one of those bolts snapped. If you're making that kind of power an engine plate is a better option anyway.
Ron
I just run solid mounts.... cures all problems... Schumacher rubbed me the wrong way with my old mounts so I figured i would end all these broken motor mount problems...
Nice set-up Ron. I have to do that some time soon. ;D
Quote from: 70kracken on May 03, 2006, 08:57:08 PM
i have solid mounts, that fixes everything......no drilling, no buying bolts, just buy em and slap em in
Me too! Althought it is a great tip for those running rubber mounts.
fixed my buddys that way the other day just like new kind of hard to drill just right though
Quote from: 71440charger on May 28, 2006, 04:38:18 PM
fixed my buddys that way the other day just like new kind of hard to drill just right though
Yep, those mounts are tough. I use a 1/2in Hammer Drill with a high grade steel bit and it works pretty good. ;)
Ron
Quote from: firefighter3931 on May 04, 2006, 08:42:10 AM
Quote from: deputycrawford on May 03, 2006, 11:33:36 PM
I hate to say it but I had a Schumaker mount in my 69 and ripped both bolts trough the mount. The engine rolled over under the hood and left a big gouge in my hood. I remember launching a 1.80 60 Ft. in a 4000lb car and hearing the driveshaft hitting the drag loop. I let off and realized what happened. I went solid Moroso and solved the problem. The bolts you use look bigger than the Schumakers. I probably should have made one myself. Looks stronger.
I guess my "poor man's" design is stronger than the schumaucher mount. :icon_smile_big: A pair of grade 8 3/8 in bolts has lotsa shear strength : not sure of the exact number but i know it's large. I would think the ear would tear off the block before one of those bolts snapped. If you're making that kind of power an engine plate is a better option anyway.
Ron
3/8" Grade 8 (150,000 mpsi Tensile/130,000 mpsi yield) will deform starting at 10,800 lbs and fail at 12,500 lbs. Proof load is based on 120,000 mpsi which means 10,000 lbs is max design load for a 3/8" bolt. Clamping loads (assumed at 75% of design load) would be 7,500 lbs.
Two of those bad boys per Ron's design give a 20,000 lb design load, with failure at 25,000 lbs......they aren't going to break.
You're good to go! :yesnod:
Cheers,
Duey
Quote from: Duey on May 28, 2006, 09:08:29 PM
3/8" Grade 8 (150,000 mpsi Tensile/130,000 mpsi yield) will deform starting at 10,800 lbs and fail at 12,500 lbs. Proof load is based on 120,000 mpsi which means 10,000 lbs is max design load for a 3/8" bolt. Clamping loads (assumed at 75% of design load) would be 7,500 lbs.
Two of those bad boys per Ron's design give a 20,000 lb design load, with failure at 25,000 lbs......they aren't going to break.
You're good to go! :yesnod:
Cheers,
Duey
Thanks for the technical info Duey ! :2thumbs:
How's the engine project coming along ?
Ron
Quote from: firefighter3931 on May 29, 2006, 07:50:53 AM
Quote from: Duey on May 28, 2006, 09:08:29 PM
3/8" Grade 8 (150,000 mpsi Tensile/130,000 mpsi yield) will deform starting at 10,800 lbs and fail at 12,500 lbs. Proof load is based on 120,000 mpsi which means 10,000 lbs is max design load for a 3/8" bolt. Clamping loads (assumed at 75% of design load) would be 7,500 lbs.
Two of those bad boys per Ron's design give a 20,000 lb design load, with failure at 25,000 lbs......they aren't going to break.
You're good to go! :yesnod:
Cheers,
Duey
Thanks for the technical info Duey ! :2thumbs:
How's the engine project coming along ?
Ron
Ron, I'll likely not get to it till I'm doing weeks up in Pet with Paul. I still have a heap of "mission critical" projects (i.e. CINC House's project list) that have to get done before I get in to the motor again. That, however, did no stop me from assembling the Proform 850, spacer, AN-fitting dual feed and pressure guage on my Holly SD manifold and making "vroom, vroom" noises in the garage.
Hey, off-topic Q, bro...what's the deal with the apparently very reasonable price for BB roller rockers at 440source.com? Is it really $215 for an entire set? (p/n 113-1007 (http://www.440source.com/rockerarms.htm)) What's the hitch?
Thanks,
Duey
Quote from: Duey on May 29, 2006, 07:56:13 PM
Hey, off-topic Q, bro...what's the deal with the apparently very reasonable price for BB roller rockers at 440source.com? Is it really $215 for an entire set? (p/n 113-1007 (http://www.440source.com/rockerarms.htm)) What's the hitch?
Thanks,
Duey
Hi Duey, not sure on those rockers. They look very similar to the CAT rockers some people were haveing problems with in the past. I can't imagine they'd be descent quality for that price. If you really want a fully rollerized rocker arm, Harland Sharp is your best bet. I went with those so i'd have the option of upgrading to a roller cam in the future. The crane golds and ductile iron are fine for flat tappet spring pressures if that's what you're thinking. If you're planning to only run a solid flat tappet with less than .600 lift ; the ductlie iron setup will serve you well.
Ron
Ps. Vroom-Vroom noises huh....sounds like fun :icon_smile_big: Post a pic up of the induction setup when you get a chance :icon_smile_cool:
We did this on VegasMike's drivers side mount in March. After riding in the car with solid mounts and having my teeth rattled, we pulled both mounts and replaced them with stockers. We drilled and bolted the drivers mount and put it in. I was completely blind sided by the difference. Still have all my teeth.. :icon_smile_big:
On my 65' I had to chamfer the K-Member side and use bugle headed bolts. I was able to get (3) 3/8s bolts in it. Probably overkill, but I tend to do things that way.. ;)
This is another one of those techno things we need to sticky.. Works great..
:cheers:
Hi Ron,
Did you use you old mount when you put on the 2 bolts or did you get a new one?
What kind of mount did you buy and where?
I am thinking about doing the same thing on my 69 charger.
I have allways used new mounts. They are not very expensive and come out of the box nice and clean.
No brand loyalty here on mounts. I just pick them up at the local auto parts store..
The thing is that here in Norway (where I live) everything is much more expencive than in the us.
The schumaker mounts cost 277 dollars and that toooooo much for some mounts.
Thats why Im asking. So I would like to know where I could buy these cheap mounts and then out the 2 bolts on and the torque strap.
I actually just need the rubber and not the mounts. They look good but I know that it is smart to change them but not at 300 dollars.
Where can I buy this rubber for the mount???
The motor mounts attach to the steel plates that attach to the engine on one side and the other attaches to the K-frame. Attached is a picture. You can get them at most every auto parts place. They don't cost very much. Same one fits 66-72 big block B-body as well as some e-bodys and c-bodys.
Tar,
How bad is shipping prices from here to norway? I mean i could pick up the mounts for about 5$ or so a piece and ship em to ya.
That would be REALLY nice of you. Would help me alot.
It depends on the weight, but should not be too much.
How would I pay you????
:nono: No need to go all the way over to US for this, the mounts are available in most Swedish speed shops for a couple of hundreds Swedish Krona, I think they where around 200 SEK last time I bought them at Hansen Racing.
is there anything that can be done to the SPOOL type mounts and what about the mounts on the K frame ?
(http://www.440source.com/1191005.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b132/rav440/HPIM3205.jpg)
:cheers:
440 Source sells the biscuit style mount pretty cheap ($14.95) as well. :2thumbs:
http://www.440source.com/enginemounts.htm
Ron
Dunno up there but down here there are a kind of buiscuit mounts what does have "ears" that hooks up between both metallic sections and prevents from get far away of what rubber mount is able to stretch.
Quote from: 70kracken on May 03, 2006, 08:57:08 PM
i have solid mounts, that fixes everything......no drilling, no buying bolts, just buy em and slap em in
After breaking my third motor mount in as many years back in the late 1990s I went with solids. :brickwall: However, now I am ready to go back to rubber because my car has developed bad rattles and I have a few lose fillings :eek2:. The solid mounts allow the vibration from the 440 to transmit through the car body and your body. The power transfer to the rear wheels without having to move the engine first is pretty cool too. :cheers:
We Chevy guys :slap:back in the 60s used to do the bolt through the mount trick. We still broke a mount now and then but the bolt kept the damage to a minimum. :scope:
Anyway I am older now and more responsible so I shouldn't have to worry about breaking mounts anymore, RIGHT? ;) :drool5:
Hey Firefighter3931
Where can I get these bolts (a pair of 3/8 x 21/2 in grade 8 flathead bolts) to modify my mounts? I have looked on E-Bay and called around to some hardware stores but with no luck so far.
I have bought them at both ACE HARDWARE and LOWES home stores.
On the 62-65 mounts I use Allen bugle style heads. I bought a special chanfer bit for my drill press. This is necessary to keep the mount flat on these years.
Sorry if this is has been answered. But I can't tell from the picture. Is it necessary to counter sink the holes for the head of the bolts? Larry
Quote from: squeakfinder on March 29, 2009, 08:43:56 AM
Sorry if this is has been answered. But I can't tell from the picture. Is it necessary to counter sink the holes for the head of the bolts? Larry
Nope....just drill the 3/8 holes. :2thumbs:
Countersinking them increases the chances of "pull-through" and failure. :Twocents:
Ron
Quote from: firefighter3931 on March 29, 2009, 09:11:38 AM
Quote from: squeakfinder on March 29, 2009, 08:43:56 AM
Sorry if this is has been answered. But I can't tell from the picture. Is it necessary to counter sink the holes for the head of the bolts? Larry
Nope....just drill the 3/8 holes. :2thumbs:
Countersinking them increases the chances of "pull-through" and failure. :Twocents:
Ron
I had thought it would weaken things. So, the head of the bolt's rest on the perch? I'm probably making this more difficult than it needs to be with these questions.
Quote from: squeakfinder on March 29, 2009, 09:21:36 AM
I'm probably making this more difficult than it needs to be with these questions.
Yes, you are....no need to reinvent the wheel Larry. ;)
Quote from: squeakfinder on March 29, 2009, 09:21:36 AM
So, the head of the bolt's rest on the frame?
Yes, the bolt heads just sit on the k-frame mount. Grade 8 bolts will not break....the ear will break off the block or the bolts will pull through the engine mount before that happens. I know many using this mod with success...one guy has an 800hp Hemi in his race car and still uses the stock mounts with this upgrade. :2thumbs:
Countersinking the bolt heads just increases the probability of pull through. This has happened in the past with countersunk bolts used on the Schumacher high dollar mounts. It was posted earlier in this thread.
Ron
Any risk of the nylock nut being a failure point on this setup? I modified my motor mounts and ended up using 2 grade 8s cinched down on each other because I wasn't sure about the nylock strength.
I've used the nylocks for years on many different motors and never had a failure. This fix is pretty much bulletproof. The cast iron ears are weaker than the steel bolts and nuts.
Thanks, Steve. :cheers:
Do you recomend this modification if I am running "only" a rebuilt stock 440 HP? Well, it's got a CH4B intake, but that's about it.
I was just going to reuse the original mounts, they appear to be in good shape. Bad idea?
if it's a daily and your not a lead foot you might get away with it... but why chance ruining your day?.. :shruggy:
first time i launched mine many years ago I broke a mount and had to limp home from the track..
I agree... If they are out or you know it's getting time to change them it IS time to make them better than stock.... Any time you make something better is a good thing... For a few bucks and a few minutes work, why not??
Quote from: firefighter3931 on March 29, 2009, 10:11:21 AM
Quote from: squeakfinder on March 29, 2009, 09:21:36 AM
I'm probably making this more difficult than it needs to be with these questions.
Yes, you are....no need to reinvent the wheel Larry. ;)
Quote from: squeakfinder on March 29, 2009, 09:21:36 AM
So, the head of the bolt's rest on the frame?
Yes, the bolt heads just sit on the k-frame mount. Grade 8 bolts will not break....the ear will break off the block or the bolts will pull through the engine mount before that happens. I know many using this mod with success...one guy has an 800hp Hemi in his race car and still uses the stock mounts with this upgrade. :2thumbs:
Countersinking the bolt heads just increases the probability of pull through. This has happened in the past with countersunk bolts used on the Schumacher high dollar mounts. It was posted earlier in this thread.
Ron
Hi folks....new to this forum -- I found this awesome tip on mounts and am going to try it on my e-body. I started a thread on cuda-challenger.com and linked to this topic (hope you dont mind).
But anyways...I went to buy bolts and all I could find are standard hex head bolts in grade 8.
I noticed that you say to use "flat head bolts", but not to countersink...that means the head of the flat head bolt will stick up, right? Now, when I held up a flat head stove bolt next to the hex head, the hex head was actually LOWER.....will I be ok?
I guess I don't know how much clearance there is for the bolt heads??? Will the hex head bolts I bought work?
Sorry for digging up an old thread with a dumb question....LOL...but this is a great way to go I think.
Thanks in advance for the help!
I've allways used the "cone head" bolts and been able to get the motor mount to sit properly in the k-frame. :yesnod:
You could try with the hex head bolts and see what happens. :scratchchin:
Ron
They make socket head style bolts that have flattened shaped heads. I've got a feeling you will find unusual bolts like this at a industrial or mill supply. I doubt seriously you will find them at your local Ace Hdwe.
I can't seem to find those bolts either and have been meaning to ask about them. I'll need at least 3 sets and have been checking locally and online. If there's anyone who can get them easily and would like to buy a pile for me I'd be more than happy to supply them to anyone else interested.
Troy
3/8-24 fine thread flat head Allen bolt. Fine thread is always stronger then a course thread. You can also drill & tap the mount & then run a nylock nut also.
The bolts I used I found at Ace Hardware. I had to use metric to get the right length (I forget the size, it was a while back when I made these). I used all steel locknuts. I partially countersunk mine because it looked like Ron's were in his pic. I haven't installed mine yet because my car isn't ready and won't be for a while, but I'm confident they will fit and hold up.
Edit: They're flat head socket screws M10 x 60mm 1.5 thread pitch
Rons were not countersunk,
I remember him saying countersinking could permit pull through...though i dont think you will need to worry.
I'm next. Thrilled for this thread. Thanks again Ron. :2thumbs:
I just bought a cheap pair at O'reilley's for 4.99 a piece!!!! Cheap enough!!!
I'm not understanding how a 2 1/2" bolt will work? This 2" bolt is even to long? :P
"1) a pair of 3/8 x 21/2 in grade 8 flathead bolts
(2) a pair of 3/8in "nylock" nuts and matching flat washers
(3) a good drill and 3/8in steel bit"
I used 2" bolts and double nutted them with grade 8 nuts and bolts since the nylock nuts looked like the weak point while I was at the Tractor Supply picking parts. After I put the mount together I brought that up here and was assured the nylocks would hold.
Either way, here are pics using 2" bolts, 4th pic is the mount bolted to the block. The 2" bolts are a little short for double nutting but plenty long for nylocks. I could easily fit a 2-1/2" bolt in there as well. I think Ron's bill of materials is spot on. :2thumbs:
(http://i545.photobucket.com/albums/hh378/dstryr/th_100_9111.jpg) (http://s545.photobucket.com/albums/hh378/dstryr/?action=view¤t=100_9111.jpg)
(http://i545.photobucket.com/albums/hh378/dstryr/th_100_9110.jpg) (http://s545.photobucket.com/albums/hh378/dstryr/?action=view¤t=100_9110.jpg)
(http://i545.photobucket.com/albums/hh378/dstryr/th_100_9109.jpg) (http://s545.photobucket.com/albums/hh378/dstryr/?action=view¤t=100_9109.jpg)
(http://i545.photobucket.com/albums/hh378/dstryr/th_100_9112.jpg) (http://s545.photobucket.com/albums/hh378/dstryr/?action=view¤t=100_9112.jpg)
(http://i545.photobucket.com/albums/hh378/dstryr/th_100_9108.jpg) (http://s545.photobucket.com/albums/hh378/dstryr/?action=view¤t=100_9108.jpg)
I see why Ron said 2 1/2. The 2" just barely made the nut threads. I got my mount at a NAPA store funny thing is----- the listing is for a 69 383 engine only, or 71 440. Bottom line it was correct. Job is done.
Thanks for this awesome tip. I changed my motor mount today and added the bolts. I went with hex head as I was unable to find the flat heads. It worked great and now I don't have my ugly chain on there any more! :cheers:
After making this mod, my mounts will not bolt up to the k frame. The bolt heads will not let the motor sit low enough on the k frame perch. I know you shouldn't countersink the heads, but that looks like the only way it will fit...
Help?
Using flat head bolts with Allen socket.
I used hex heads with no issues. Is you k frame setup all stock?
I guess I'm not sure about the k frame. It was a 318 car, and now has a 496 stroker. :laugh:
I'm no engineer, but I think you would be better off grinding the bolt head down than countersinking....
Then there was the time I was working on a Duster checking the stall of the converter & loaded the engine in reverse Only because the mounts were original & I didn't want to buy the new mount & shroud . SO I load it up & sure enough the right engine mount fails & takes out the upper rad hose & shroud :brickwall:
I drill through first and then chase the holes with a countersink bit. Then use bugle head allen bolts. The tough part is finding the right countersink bit as you want to match the angle of the bugle head. A good hardware store will have these bolts in grade 8 and should have or be able to get the bit.. There is no need to go too deep with the counter bit. also I use 3 bolts and on my 65' I got away with nylocks with plenty of room to spare. We did the same on Mike's 65' Charger that made tons of torque.
I think I have posted this before, but on Vegasmikes car we removed solid mounts that rattled our teeth out and went to this system. No more killer vibrations and because of the bolts putting some pressure on the rubber, (PRE-LOAD), they operate just as well as the solid mount.
Thanks steve, I did read your post and that's what set me on bolted rubber mounts and not solid mounts. My mopar mechanic said "awee heck, we have been installing solid mounts for years and they have not knocked my teeth out. These cars just rumble."
I like the way your thinking, why suffer?!!
Gonna try shallow countersink, and grind the head a little. I really would like to drive the new motor next week. Been waiting for 3 months, the best 3 months of the year to dive these babies.
:cheers:
Oh, I did by a new rubber mount insulator from o'reily. The metal is thinner than my old mount insulator. Not gonna use the new one.
photo 1 shows how the bols are hitting the k frame mount, photo 2 shows how the bolt heads are sticking out.
Looks like counter sink is the way to go.?
Oh yeah.... MUST countersink them.....
Counter sunk about 1/2 the thickness of the head, mounts up no problem. ;)
No grinding on the head, and I don't think they will pull through. Wish me luck, I could be driving this baby soon.
Quote from: ugly2u on October 08, 2011, 11:32:51 PM
Counter sunk about 1/2 the thickness of the head, mounts up no problem. ;)
No grinding on the head, and I don't think they will pull through. Wish me luck, I could be driving this baby soon.
I don't see any forseeable problem with countersinking the bolts 1/2 way. You're good to go :2thumbs:
Ron
Ron, this is another thread that should have a sticky. I wish I had seen it. Just replaced the motor mount in my 71 and had to JB weld the fan shroud back together. That was a horrible noise when the fan went through the shroud.
Quote from: NHCharger on October 09, 2011, 07:51:53 PM
Ron, this is another thread that should have a sticky. I wish I had seen it. Just replaced the motor mount in my 71 and had to JB weld the fan shroud back together. That was a horrible noise when the fan went through the shroud.
Good point Brian ! I've often referred members to this thread and had to go search for it :scope:
Sorry about your shroud :icon_smile_blackeye:
Ron
I counter-sunk a bit, and the head surface of the bolt clears the K-frame by a c-hair. :icon_smile_cool:
But.....the other side, passenger, the mount sits directly on the K frame perch, with the perch bearing all of the weight, or so it seems. The side with the mod has a little clearence, and it looks like the motor mount horizontal bolt is bearing the weight. Is this all OK, and is it how you guys see it? I know these K frames were built a little rough, and may be the tolerences are not that exact from side to side. But I'm just wondering about the bearing on the bolt.
I am doing this trick to my 1971 Superbee and what is the final word on the counter sinking the bolts? I'm bringing mine to a machinest friend and should I tell him to go 1/2 countersunk or 3/4 countersunk? I want to be able to get it done in one shot and clear the k frame. Thanks for any help
If you are not going to countersink the holes, why use countersunk fasteners? Countersunk fasteners don't pull through aluminum. The heads of countersunk steel fasteners have been known to pop off when going through an aluminum structure. If the fasteners pull through, they are too big. You need to use small fasteners, and more of them. What about welding the fastener heads to the mount?
This is all much ado about nothing.
Countersink until the heads are flush if necessary, they will not pull through. The strength of the bolts and mount material far exceed what the engine can deliver.
thanx RON for the how to!!!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/944109_533138463411534_1406295820_n.jpg)
Right on Charlie....looks great ! :2thumbs:
You're good to go ! :yesnod:
Happy to report mine has been holding up well for several years now....and the 572 sure does try to put a hurting on that driver side mount. :icon_smile_big:
It hasn't given up yet and I don't expect it ever will ;)
Ron
Good upgrade Ron, thanks , just did mine as starting to get through the to do list, very easy to do and like you said , very strong and hidden,
Always went the hard way with cable and grooved washers with cable set to just pull tight and near end of mount stretch,
Like the way this will prevent too much engine movement or lift to that side,
Hardest part was removing the mount and replacing, worth doing :2thumbs:
What I should have posted was fitting mount in car , those of you going to this to a mount already installed in car,
The following I had to do, undo centre section cross over pipe of exhaust and remove , loosen engine mount bolts. All, don't remove yet, undo transmission crossmember with jack under tranny, I used two stands with a piece o timber across, lower transmission so engine on more of a angle,
Had to put jack under engine now to that side of sump with a good piece of timber to spread load on sump, this help preventing denting
Lift engine slightly so you can remove bolts, and lift engine as high as you can get it,
Trans mission will stop everything lifting too far, it will bottom out against floor , but just enough hopefully, it worked for me, got engine up just higher enough to get engine mount out, was a pain because steering box limited room to get mount out,
Couldn't get enough lift out of engine without lowering the transmission,
You will need to allow a couple of hours to do this , drilling the mount and installing the bolts took all of 15 minutes,
Hope this helps anyone going to this to a engine mount in car
I did this, now I have vibration throughout my car. I used a nylock nut and does not touch the metal plate on the engine side of the mount. However the bolt I think must be touching the upper plate of the mount. I should have drilled a larger hole.
Did you use the counter sunk head as shown , if you have a normal head to bolt , it won't clear, it will sit up too high and touch
yes I used countersunk head it went a bit crocked and I grounded it flat. It must be hitting hard against the upper metal bracket. I must emphasise that this be done very neatly and the bolt is not touching the upper metal plate. I will re do this one day cant be bothered as it is really difficult to remove and replace a mount.
This is the first time I've ever heard of this fix causing a vibration through the car. I've done a few sets myself and some for others and never had this issue. :shruggy:
Great tip Ron,I'll definetly going to do this mod on my -70.Engine is coming together and hopefully will have dyno time before it falls in the bay.
Ordered stock mount's and will go to hardware store from here.
Thanks
Mine is yet to be seen, when I did them I cook out about half the rubber in the mount so there is a chance I could have a vibration problem. :Twocents:
This just happened to me for the second time in 2 years! Sooo glad i found this before I changed it out again tomorrow! Thanks Buddy!
I did mine and it was great. No vibration and didn't break anymore. :2thumbs:
We have to plenty of mount mods ,Here we have replaced too, I got sick of changing mounts on all time , We support the bolts through the mounts, with old clutch plate springs, they are perfect with a small chain small as well, For back up ,I hate solid mounts they just shake the car loose unless its' a drag car only , And very bad harmonics for the feel of the drive when just cruising ..Also we put a brass plate on the other side so when under hard use the motor is a 1/2 inch, more level ... it works no rubbing and less stress on the box from the twist from torque ..even or a stocker.
Quote from: 70kracken on May 03, 2006, 08:57:08 PM
i have solid mounts, that fixes everything......no drilling, no buying bolts, just buy em and slap em in
i had solid mounts on a 440 in a 68 man i hated all the vibrations and noise i would get from them. rubber mounts isolated it for me. i like them
All these jobber cheap motor mounts are junk , even before trying this modification
Two I got from O Reilly's Anchor 2250 the welded nuts where crooked and one fell off in the box , serious
Metal looks thin as paper
Two I got from Napa , bolt studs for mount need to bee shortened but the problem with there's was the welded nut and opposing holes looked fine but where a 1/2" further away from the mounts then factory so they didn't sit flush on the K Frame when running the bolts through , mounts sat at least 1/2" off the Frame
Who the hell sells a decent motor mount to begin with before doing this mod ? Something at least fits proper
432 Stroker Motor will bee done this week for my 71 Superbee
Quote from: bee1971 on October 31, 2017, 07:14:38 AM
All these jobber cheap motor mounts are junk , even before trying this modification
Two I got from O Reilly's Anchor 2250 the welded nuts where crooked and one fell off in the box , serious
Metal looks thin as paper
Two I got from Napa , bolt studs for mount need to bee shortened but the problem with there's was the welded nut and opposing holes looked fine but where a 1/2" further away from the mounts then factory so they didn't sit flush on the K Frame when running the bolts through , mounts sat at least 1/2" off the Frame
Who the hell sells a decent motor mount to begin with before doing this mod ? Something at least fits proper
432 Stroker Motor will bee done this week for my 71 Superbee
Here are a few.
http://www.mitymounts.com/chrysler.htm
http://engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/PolyLoc.html
Great idea homemade failsafe mounts, bought some shummy mounts and the engine would sit on the K-member no matter how much you frigged about with them?
Never worked out what was wrong with'em... :shruggy:
Ron,
Thanks again for posting this mod ! I used it on my old charger and just did it to the original factory motor mounts that were on the car from Nov. 1968 (date code). Now I'm able to keep the "original" mounts with the car and only have to have one "slightly modified" original mount. I ended up using the mount that looked like it was starting to crack and the other original mount is nice and soft with no signs of cracking. Thats going on my pass side.
Has anyone done this to a polyurethane type of mount? Do they make poly mounts for our cars?
:popcrn: