I've seen a few really good cluster restoration threads on this site but I haven't found one that includes the entire dash: frame, cluster, glovebox, radio, a/c & heater controls, pads etc. . Maybe it's redundant, but I am by no means an expert so I would like to see what others have done or get some input as I do my own. I started today by putting the dash up on an adjustable stand my friend built me. I then pulled the a/c & heater control unit and to my surprise (sarcasm) have already hit a hiccup: the plastic vacuum diverter box attached to the bezel is partially separated and was duct taped together. I'll most likely open it up and see if the giblets within are in good shape then try to glue it back together. That's as far as I've gotten but I will update as I go. Feel free to chime in at any time ;D
You might want to check the fan speed switch connections on the switch. It appears one is burnt. :Twocents:
I tried repairing mine and then found out they sell them cheap brand new so I jsut replaced it. Much easier than dealing with that old stuff.
Good to hear from ya Dino. Do you have a link? I couldn't find anything under $70 plus shipping, and I think those were NOS so I fear they may be dried out and brittle too. I do have another from a '68 that might be usable if I can find the thing.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F332930439663
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F153326067341
Messed with some parts earlier today. After pulling the vinyl cover off of my dashpad (installed by the previous owner) I set the A/C controls back into the dash and noticed that since the cover isn't holding the bezel down, the thing is almost completely obscured by the dash pad. Not sure what's going on there. I also found my spare control using. It has a few parts buttons that are in better shape than mine, but the plastic control is completely missing the back piece so it's of little help. Also, if anyone has some pictures of the wiring that connects to the A/C controls OR the switch for the fan speed they would be much appreciated.
What would be the best lubricant for the inside of the control switch for the plastic push buttons?
Quote from: rikubot on January 06, 2019, 12:28:01 PM
Good to hear from ya Dino. Do you have a link? I couldn't find anything under $70 plus shipping, and I think those were NOS so I fear they may be dried out and brittle too. I do have another from a '68 that might be usable if I can find the thing.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F332930439663
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F153326067341
It's been a long time so that link is long gone, but lemme see what I can find.
Appreciate it. Looks like my next best choice is the brand new one from Summit at $119 shipped. The good thing is it's fairly easy to get to after the dash is in the car so it can go on the back burner if it has to.
I ended up skipping the ac heater controls for now. They can be installed after the dash has been relatively easily. I ordered ten rolls of 18G wire, bulb contact terminals, some male and female terminals for the plugs, and some pigtails to get some wire harnesses built. The wire seems like good quality and the bulb contacts fit really well. I couldn't find anything that looked like the contact inside the globe box light. Is there a name for those? Or is there a place to get a new bulb socket?
I looked for one of those, then found one in a junkyard. they are unusual - hold one side of the bulb. that wire is constantly hot, btw, as the switch makes ground.
Its a socket with a built in switch to allow ground to the bulb. These sockets feeds reversed to the common sockets feeding central contact ground through the built in switch and outer case positive from batt.
(https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/glove-box-light-switch-jpg.1715174617/)
here is one NOS...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/312438382553
one better priced.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303033613079
doesn't matter the application. All use same socket. The only difference is really the wire lenght and terminal to be sourced and that can be matched to your needs
I thought about going to check the yard for something I could hack up but last night I was able to get the terminal off of the old wire and get it crimped relatively well to some new wire. I remember it not being like a normal wire because an LED won't work in it. That would be a nice place to have one too considering that it's so dim in there being that the light has to go through that small plastic filter in a small hole.
Led light won't work because as explained, it's fed reversed.
the terminal end to the socket is VERY SPECIFIC to the socket. Its shaped to hold the bayonet end of the bulb. i don't think is an easy find if needing to replace
Cheaper but used:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-60s-70s-GLOVE-BOX-LAMP/312435225488?epid=1142014106&hash=item48be973390:g:n4IAAOSwJ~xcQ1zI:rk:38:pf:0
I think I'll have to look For another one, at least the black plastic case part. Mine has a little crack in it. It works, but might as well fix it while it's all apart.
I also came across an interesting variation between two different '69 charger AC control lights, the left side has the front blacked out and the lights shining down onto the buttons:
Do you mean the glove box switch/socket assembly? mine got broken too on the area where the terminal attaches. I simply fixed it with epoxy untill find a replacement.
Yeah the socket part. Mines not really too bad and would probably hold, but since it's easy to swap I might as well.
When replacing, disconect the batt
( don't ask how I know it :eek2: :whistling:)
Quote from: rikubot on February 13, 2019, 01:42:34 AM
I think I'll have to look For another one, at least the black plastic case part. Mine has a little crack in it. It works, but might as well fix it while it's all apart.
I also came across an interesting variation between two different '69 charger AC control lights, the left side has the front blacked out and the lights shining down onto the buttons:
Left is 69, right is 68.
That's very interesting. The left one came out of my buddy's relatively unmolested '69 and the right came out of MY '69. One more thing I thought was original to the car but isn't :brickwall:
I've made a little progress on the dash. Got it all torn apart and I'm in the process of stripping it to the bare metal as best I can. I am planning on shooting it with Eastwood's 2k rattle can Rat Rod Black. I have been looking at dash pads too and was wondering if you guys had any recommendations. I've seen them going for $185 all the way up to $490 on Classic, which I think is ridiculous. I'd love to see pictures and hear your experiences.
Little more.
I'll be following this for sure.
Looks like you had a good starting point
Luke
Quote from: lukedukem on May 04, 2019, 07:18:20 AM
I'll be following this for sure.
Looks like you had a good starting point
Luke
Awesome. I'll do my best to make a good example. There are a couple little things that need to be addressed on the frame before I paint it (cut off gauge cluster mounting point, buttload of extra holes drilled, some bent up parts) but it was in pretty good shape overall.
Getting there. All the crevices and cutouts are making this a bit grueling. I plan to get it all the way down to metal on the visible surfaces then do a quick sandblast to rough up the surface for primer. The back side I'll probably just scuff really well and prime.
Quote from: rikubot on May 08, 2019, 12:11:49 AM
Getting there. All the crevices and cutouts are making this a bit grueling. I plan to get it all the way down to metal on the visible surfaces then do a quick sandblast to rough up the surface for primer. The back side I'll probably just scuff really well and prime.
When I did mine, I sprayed the inside with Eastwoods Internal Frame Coating. No one was going to see it and I wanted something in every little crevice (specially that area behind the top dash pad) so corrosion would not be a problem. The stuff is really runny. If you use it protect everything!
In my opinion, the most correct dash pads for the 69 to 70 B-Bodies are coming from ABC Moparts. They are steel core using the original cores, so you will need a good usable core or get hit for a core charge. They are the correct length as some of the other reproductions are too short. They have the same profile as the originals. The only thing different is the grain pattern is not 100% correct, but you would have to really know your cars to know the differences. https://abcmoparts.com/t/dash-pad-dodge-charger-plymouth-gtx-b-body
@green69rt, I'll have to look into it. I've seen some pretty rusty dash frames. Luckily mine had a good amount of that red primer so I might be able to get away with just a spray.
@69bfan, I gave that one a look but it was sold out. I found this one on eBay and unlike most of the others it has decent up close pics. The grain looks acceptable. What do you think?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F112949600304
I would like to replace the dash speaker while I've got it out. Not trying to go overboard but I'd like something that sounds nice. Suggestions appreciated :icon_smile_big:
I found an affordable option on Summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/res-d-412?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-retrosound&gclid=CjwKCAjw_MnmBRAoEiwAPRRWW0ZTZ0bHscN1qjDkAlf4FBpSUewlhsNjDJPleWUoNTGParokI-BCkRoCYqkQAvD_BwE
Quote from: rikubot on May 08, 2019, 10:31:36 PM
I would like to replace the dash speaker while I've got it out. Not trying to go overboard but I'd like something that sounds nice. Suggestions appreciated :icon_smile_big:
I found an affordable option on Summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/res-d-412?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-retrosound&gclid=CjwKCAjw_MnmBRAoEiwAPRRWW0ZTZ0bHscN1qjDkAlf4FBpSUewlhsNjDJPleWUoNTGParokI-BCkRoCYqkQAvD_BwE
I got mine from Classic Industries. Looks fine. As far as fit....the screws in back fit the hole fine. They needed a tiny bit of massaging of the hole to get them in. The biggest problem was the slot across the back of the pad. Whoever made the pad let some of the cushion material get into the slot. That materiel had to be removed before the pad would seat correctly on the dash flange. Also the cover material was wrapped into that slot. I, also, had to cut that out. Once all the excess material was gone if fit just fine. The fit at the ends will also need a little work. I did a quick test fit against the A pillar facia and I think I can make it look good. Picture attached. That is one of the original facia that neeed a color change.
You can also see the texture.
The texture looks great. Sad to hear about all the modification you had to do. You'd think for 300+ dollars it would fit like a dream. What are you going to do about the fit at the ends? I'm going to see if I can find a coupon for Classic and see how much that would be shipped.
I got a little more done. My buddy and I got the missing tab welded on. I'm having issues making the cluster/bezel fit flush. The factor- drilled holes in the remaining upper tab had the bezel sitting about 1/4 inch from the underside of the top of the dash (see pics). I had him weld up the hole so I can re-drill them and hopefully get the bezel more flush. There's a thin piece by the radio that has some give but a previous owner had broken an brazed back together. I might be able to use that to move things around a little bit in an attempt to get things to line up a little better and hopefully don't re-break it.
Coming along nicely! That dash was in really good shape prior to the work commencing imo...rarely see that!
Quote from: TexasStroker on May 11, 2019, 11:32:10 PM
Coming along nicely! That dash was in really good shape prior to the work commencing imo...rarely see that!
Thanks! It has very little rust on it. It does have quite a few holes drilled into it and that poor braze job but other than that it's in really nice shape.
Also I should mention that I have re-faced the gauges and re-painted the bezels before I started disassembling the dash so it was quite a bit more rough than it looks now. I'll see if I can find a "before" picture.
Top is what I pulled out of my dash. Guy cut some wood up and (very poorly) wired in some different gauges. Bottom is the cluster I pulled from a wrecked '68 and a nice guy on here traded me the '68 faceplate for a '69. The gauges all worked and I've since added a tic-toc-tac and a solid state voltage regulator.
Quote from: rikubot on May 10, 2019, 10:19:37 PM
The texture looks great. Sad to hear about all the modification you had to do. You'd think for 300+ dollars it would fit like a dream. What are you going to do about the fit at the ends? I'm going to see if I can find a coupon for Classic and see how much that would be shipped.
Haven't worked much on the ends yet, just enough to see if I could get them to work. The fascia fits over the end of the pad and the new pad is just a tiny bit puffier than the original so I'll have to trim out the inside edge of the fascia to make it side all the way on. Doesn't seem like a big deal. Picture below, it shows a little tab sticking out that makes it hard to get it over the pad.
It doesn't look too bad at all even with the small gap. I'm guessing that tab was put there to hold it tight on the pad. Are those the original A-pillar mouldings?
Checked the pad gaps on a '68 satellite. I'm pretty sure it's not the original stuff but I found this interesting. I didn't pop the door to see if the mouldings were bolted on correctly.
Checking out the alignment of the pads and faceplates. The A/C pad needs to go. It's warped bad and I'm converting to non-a/c stuff.
Quote from: rikubot on May 12, 2019, 02:02:00 PM
It doesn't look too bad at all even with the small gap. I'm guessing that tab was put there to hold it tight on the pad. Are those the original A-pillar mouldings?
Yeah, original to the car. Looks like I can "persuade" the moulding to close the gap, just haven't tried yet.
PM sent.
Quote from: rikubot on May 12, 2019, 05:24:57 PM
Checking out the alignment of the pads and faceplates. The A/C pad needs to go. It's warped bad and I'm converting to non-a/c stuff.
What's the plan for the warped pad? :scratchchin:
@Dino, I was hoping to replace it. As it sits it's the ugliest part of my dash other than the top pad but I plan to replace that one.
I noticed that the plastic bezel pieces that replace theA/C vents on a non-A/C car leave a half inch gap on the outer sides. Did the dash frames for A/C cars have bigger holes?? Really hoping I don't have to add material to close up the holes. I'd love to see some pics from the non-A/C cars out there. A close up seems to be hard to come by on the internet.
Quote from: rikubot on May 12, 2019, 10:29:36 PM
I noticed that the plastic bezel pieces that replace theA/C vents on a non-A/C car leave a half inch gap on the outer sides. Did the dash frames for A/C cars have bigger holes?? Really hoping I don't have to add material to close up the holes. I'd love to see some pics from the non-A/C cars out there. A close up seems to be hard to come by on the internet.
Non AC cars had no holes, at all, at the ends.
Thanks Mitch, looks like I'm making some plates now. I did find a pic of a non-a/c rallye dash.
Can't help it, have to brag a little. My dash restoration.....
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127894.msg1591275.html#msg1591275
Quote from: green69rt on May 13, 2019, 07:05:38 PM
Can't help it, have to brag a little. My dash restoration.....
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127894.msg1591275.html#msg1591275
I have a feeling this is going to be very humbling...
Great thread and great work. I noticed that your wiper motor looks exactly like mine with the black motor cover instead of the zinc. I also noticed that you said a satin paint was too glossy for the dash. That's concerning as I planned to shoot mine with Eastwood's Rat Rod Black https://www.eastwood.com/2k-aero-spray-rat-rod-satin-black-47968.html?SRCCODE=PLA00010&gclid=CjwKCAjwq-TmBRBdEiwAaO1en3gSAYGFUXXe8lTFtQ-f4NP3QbKM8lcuala8Xvsi6n03hTnGhziI2BoCxNgQAvD_BwE
The Dakota digital stuff is going to look great in there. I was also very impressed with the way you converted the non ac pad to the vented version. The finish looks great. Brag away sir!
For the holes, I've started on a plate that will bolt on using the screws that hold the face plates on. It would look cleaner to weld them in and smooth them but I don't have access to a welder so that's more of an excuse to make them bolts ons. And I can reverse it if I ever decide to convert back to A/C.
This one came out pretty good. It's not perfect but I think the edge that shows will look okay under the bezel. I used some shelves cut out of one of my buddies storage boxes. I'm gonna try to use the same screws that the bezels and heater vents use to attach to the frame.
Got a couple of the bezels that cover the vent holes. I'll strip and repaint and recently found out about a paint pen that looks really close to chrome.
I got some screws in my filler plate. The heads of both stick out just enough to be in the way of the bezel. I dremeled off a little bit of the top on just to see what I'd be left with once it fit. I'm not sure if it will hold. Any ideas?
Either a little tack weld and grind down again or... start again with new screws. Screw them in with a little JBweld under the heads and threads. Let dry then grind down again.
Actually, they will probably hold as-is. Shake the patch around a little, don't pound on it. See if it's stable.
Is the patch metal? If the patch overlaps the dash metal a little, you could use some panel adhesive.
I think all of the above would probably hold it well. I was wondering if a little rivet would hold. Bonus it would be easy to undo. Yes it's a piece of a shelf from a file cabinet I believe. About 1/32" thick. Once it's mounted with the bezel on there there will be a little of a gap but it won't look too bad.
I still have to drill the two upper holes for the gauge cluster and finish the other heater vent hole. Then this thing will be ready for a once-over with a sandblaster and some primer.
Quote from: rikubot on May 18, 2019, 07:10:02 PM
I think all of the above would probably hold it well. I was wondering if a little rivet would hold. Bonus it would be easy to undo.
Never thought of a rivet. If you do use a rivet then put some epoxy putty or epoxy glue on the back side to keep the rivet from working loose with time.
Good call. I think that should do just fine. Bad news is I will be out of town for work next week and I'll be itchin' to work on car parts the whole time :-\
Not too shabby :shruggy:
What do you think?
I got my last bezel on after adjusting the cluster bezel. It took a lot of bending and drilling of new holes but it's a lot better. I am disappointed in how the vent cover lined up. I measured pretty carefully but just not careful enough. Kinda thinking about welding and re-drilling them. Thoughts? Criticisms?
Found a marker that looks a lot like chrome. I decided to try to go over the silver paint I did on my bezels. It looks pretty good so far. "Molotow Liquid Chrome". It looks like it might dull easily but some clear over the top might help. I'm just playing around with some ideas.
I got a little more finished today. I did all the hand-sanding I could then took it to a friends house to sandblast it. I got most of the paint out of the difficult areas. I then sprayed it with a can of Eastwood's 2k epoxy primer with the built in hardener. I ran out about 2/3 of the way through so I'm gonna have to order another can now. I'll need another can of the black too after discovering that one can isn't going to be enough.
Quote from: rikubot on June 09, 2019, 12:52:15 AM
I got a little more finished today. I did all the hand-sanding I could then took it to a friends house to sandblast it. I got most of the paint out of the difficult areas. I then sprayed it with a can of Eastwood's 2k epoxy primer with the built in hardener. I ran out about 2/3 of the way through so I'm gonna have to order another can now. I'll need another can of the black too after discovering that one can isn't going to be enough.
What did you end up using for the finish paint? Satin or flat? Reason I used the flat is that I took the dash outside on a sunny day, set it upright so the sun shined on it and looked to see how much reflection off of the top. I tried several different positions to simulate driving into the afternoon sun . Didn't want the sun reflecting in my eyes while driving. If your's looks alright to you then good enough!
I saw in your dash resto thread that you tried a couple different finishes shortly after I had ordered mine. I was a little concerned that the "rat rod satin" I ordered would be too flat but I'd rather have more flat than gloss for the exact reason you mentioned. As long as the rat rod satin goes on glossier than the primer I put down I think I'll be happy with it.
It's called "Rat Rod Satin" by Eastwood. It looks pretty good in the example photos they have posted on the product info on the site. Hopefully it comes out looking like the pictures.
Edit:
Man, after looking at some of the light reflections on the plastic on the bike I'm having doubts. I hope it isn't too glossy :brickwall:
https://www.eastwood.com/2k-aero-spray-rat-rod-satin-black-47968.html
Quote from: rikubot on June 09, 2019, 09:47:42 AM
I saw in your dash resto thread that you tried a couple different finishes shortly after I had ordered mine. I was a little concerned that the "rat rod satin" I ordered would be too flat but I'd rather have more flat than gloss for the exact reason you mentioned. As long as the rat rod satin goes on glossier than the primer I put down I think I'll be happy with it.
It's called "Rat Rod Satin" by Eastwood. It looks pretty good in the example photos they have posted on the product info on the site. Hopefully it comes out looking like the pictures.
Edit:
Man, after looking at some of the light reflections on the plastic on the bike I'm having doubts. I hope it isn't too glossy :brickwall:
https://www.eastwood.com/2k-aero-spray-rat-rod-satin-black-47968.html
All you can do is try. Test a piece first. Or if they have a flat clear you could top coat it, maybe.
I noticed in your thread you went with a flat clear. Is that what you stuck with and is that what is in the picture with it mounted in the car?
Quote from: rikubot on June 10, 2019, 08:17:29 AM
I noticed in your thread you went with a flat clear. Is that what you stuck with and is that what is in the picture with it mounted in the car?
Yes, I used a textured satin black then flat clear on top of that to smooth out some of the texture and get rid of some of the shine. I did the "Paper towel test" by trying to wipe some dust off the bare texture. It left a whole lot of lint behind where the texture tore into the paper towel, Then it was really hard to clean all the towel lint off of the surface. Shot a little clear and it reduced the problem, two coats and it was fixed but still some texture. All that testing left me with a lot of layers so I sanded it off, mostly and redid primer, then two coats of texture then two coats of flat clear. That's what I have on today.
Cleaned the old paint and dirt off my heater vents, sprayed some adhesion promoter then some SEM Trim Black.
When given the "scratch test" the paint didn't hold up as well as it has for me in the past. It's not bad, just not great. If it was in a place that got more action I'd probably strip and do the epoxy when I do my dash frame but I think it will be okay. .
Those rattle can paints, including SEM, take a long time to fully harden. Like a month! Even then they may not be as hard as a catalyzed paint. Still, that's all we have sometimes. Keep on trucken'! :cheers:
Quote from: green69rt on June 12, 2019, 07:49:07 AM
Those rattle can paints, including SEM, take a long time to fully harden. Like a month! Even then they may not be as hard as a catalyzed paint. Still, that's all we have sometimes. Keep on trucken'! :cheers:
Agreed and to be honest I didn't allow proper drying time. I've ran out of things to do for now and my boredom is becoming impatience. Money restrictions and shipping time has me at a standstill on the dash but I do have the grill. I may get started on the plastics on that. Happen to have a resto thread on that piece? ;)
Edit: I just looked at your resto thread and saw that you had a grill section started. I am pretty sure Dino has a really good one on here where he does a lot of plastic repair.
Also saw that the rat rod satin I needed from Eastwood is on backorder til July 7th :shruggy: bummer!
There are more grill restoration threads on here than you can shake a stick at. Start here,,,,
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,39926.0.html
Can I sand epoxy primer before I do a topcoat? Not sure if I'm happy with the grit of the primer after i sprayed it.
Quote from: rikubot on June 13, 2019, 08:43:43 PM
Can I sand epoxy primer before I do a topcoat? Not sure if I'm happy with the grit of the primer after i sprayed it.
Sure, but be gentle. Nothing more than 400 grit, 600 would be better. If you go to far just spray more epoxy.
From your experience, does epoxy primer go on really gritty? I am concerned it might show through the top coat. I'm also wondering if I put enough down as I was spraying to get a smoother effect.
Quote from: rikubot on June 13, 2019, 11:39:17 PM
From your experience, does epoxy primer go on really gritty? I am concerned it might show through the top coat. I'm also wondering if I put enough down as I was spraying to get a smoother effect.
With good prep the epoxy should be nice and smooth. Are you using a gun or a rattle can? In either case you need to put enough material down that the epoxy flows out and becomes smooth. Test your spray technique on some cardboard.
There are more experienced painters on here that could give better advice. You listening guys??
epoxy should spray just like a primer. Most epoxy will dry with a satin finish. If you can see sand scratches you went to aggressive with your initial sanding. Either that or just don't have enough epoxy on the part but I doubt that is the case. Did you clean the parts well before spraying? Depending on what you used to clean with, you could be looking at lint from the rag/ cloth you used?
Every company has their own suggestions but I find it pretty safe to sand with 180 or 220 depending on sandpaper being used. TO course can actually cause adhesion problems !!
When sprayed properly it should lay down with little effort and have a very nice even finish to it.
:cheers:
Sorry I just read more of your post. You had the pieces sandblasted? YOU will see texture left from the blasting . Epoxy is fairly thin, it is not meant to fill.
Yes it was 2k from a can. I laid it down pretty well to make sure I had some good coverage but it just wasn't smooth just about anywhere. I started sanding it with 320 but it seems to cut right through that primer. I have little faith in this stuff.
Yeah I sprayed it off with compressed air after sandblasting it. I took a lot of precautions with this thing just to be safe but it seems it didn't matter much when I put that primer down.
It does seem REALLY thin. The sandpaper cut into an edge with some very light sanding.
I think I'll just do my best smoothing it over and cleaning it, then I'll shoot it with the 2k Rat Rod stuff since I've already paid for it. If it comes out with a poor, weak finish I'll just sand again and use exactly what you used greenRT. And just eat the $140+ I've spent on Eastwood "crap".
Quote from: rikubot on June 14, 2019, 09:55:26 PM
Yes it was 2k from a can. I laid it down pretty well to make sure I had some good coverage but it just wasn't smooth just about anywhere. I started sanding it with 320 but it seems to cut right through that primer. I have little faith in this stuff.
Yeah I sprayed it off with compressed air after sandblasting it. I took a lot of precautions with this thing just to be safe but it seems it didn't matter much when I put that primer down.
It does seem REALLY thin. The sandpaper cut into an edge with some very light sanding.
I think I'll just do my best smoothing it over and cleaning it, then I'll shoot it with the 2k Rat Rod stuff since I've already paid for it. If it comes out with a poor, weak finish I'll just sand again and use exactly what you used greenRT. And just eat the $140+ I've spent on Eastwood "crap".
I just used some of this stuff and it came out great. I'm painting my headliner trim.
Just a couple of things. The metal needs to be nice and clean so wipe it down with degreaser/cleaner. The other thing is technique. Follow the instructions on the can really close. If you left dust on the metal from sanding, that may cause a lot of "texture".
Before you give up, do a test piece of scrap metal. Something sounds wrong.
I just checked the Eastwood site and they don't give any info on application of the satin over the epoxy. Applying finish coat over epoxy, you'll want to spray the finish within a short time, as little as 20 minutes. The epoxy should not be fully cured so it bonds chemically with the finish product.
Don't give up.
Edit: I skipped over the sand blast part. Whenever I had something sandblasted I've always used a high build primer to smooth everything out. You may need to do that or else put a bunch of coats of your 2K stuff down to smooth out the metal( expensive.) You'd be surprised how rough the metal is after sandblasting even though it looks smooth.
After laying down that primer it became obvious how little it covers up flaws in the metal. I could easily see the texture from the sand blasting. This morning I sanded the top of it, cleaned it up and shot it with the rat rod satin. It covered up the texture pretty well but it spit once about half way through the process and I shot it outside and two or three pieces of lint made their way to it. It looks okay but it isn't perfect so I might sand and redo it.
If I redo it I'll follow exactly what you did Green. What did you end up going with? I really liked the finish you came up with. How many cans of each?
The flash really accentuates the flaws but they are still noticeable in decent lighting.
I went out to the garage and had to test to make sure I was giving you good info. I had a piece of old fender that I sanded down to mostly bare metal.
Pic #1 - So, what I would say, if you are working bare metal use rustoleum self-etching primer, over other coatings use your epoxy primer. part # 249322 for the self etching.
Pic #2 & 3 - wait about 20 minutes and then spray a coat of the "FINE" texture, Part number 7220. Apply second coat after 20-40 minutes if you think it needs it, too much texture won't hurt.
Pic #4 - Wait about 20-40 minutes, spray coat of flat black, part #7578838. Wait about 20 minutes and look at the final gloss. If still too shiny, spray another light coat of the flat black.
Pic #5 - The final color will not be a dark, dark black. The shine makes the color look lighter, maybe a little grey. Crappy picture, sorry.
Spraying the flat black knocks down some of the texture. After mine dried for a couple of days, I wiped a wet paper towel over it to see if the texture shredded the paper, if it does then just shoot another coat of flat black till you're happy.
Edit: forgot to add, make sure you clean the surface real good. Pic #6 is what I use. Get it at the local paint shop (not SW.)
Handle carefully for several weeks so the paint has a chance to harden.
Mitch
Thank you for the detailed step-by-step. You do both the front and the top like this, correct? I'm thinking I might do the rat rod satin to the front side and re-do the top side the same way you have done. So if you spray the texture and then the flat on top of it, you say that it might STILL be too glossy? Does this mean the flat is less flat than normal when it's been applied to the texture? I don't want a sheen but I also don't want full matte. I appreciate the pictures but sometimes they just don't show enough how it looks in person.
After putting about three coats of the rat rod down I was pretty happy with the cover and what it did to the sandblasted metal texture. It is still a little bit too shiny for my liking, though. I'm most likely gonna sand and attempt your method, at least for the top. I'm still undecided on what I want to do to the front side.
In the mean time I put everything back in it for safekeeping. I'm pretty happy with the fitment of everything except I have to manhandle the cluster downward as I tighten the screws because when mounted the bezel sits about 1mm higher than the radio bezel. Here's a good pic of it all together. Have a look at that horrendous A/C lower dash pad :eek2:
It might take more than one application of the flat to tone down the gloss. And let the flat dry in between coats as it changes as it drys. I stopped at two coats. This is why you really need to do a test piece. If you don't have some scrap sheet laying around, go to Lowes or Home depot and buy a piece.
As for the front, since it is almost totally covered with bezels and pads, just get it close and don't fret about it. The only part that really shows is the ends and the doors are in the way of seeing those.
I think I've got a scrap piece of metal laying around here somewhere. I've been on the fence on whether I should leave it or re-spray it but I think it will bother me if I end up leaving it. Not just the blems but the finish is just a bit too reflective.
I'll go ahead and finish the front up when I get back into town. Do you know if you can spray non-epoxy on an epoxy primer?
Quote from: rikubot on June 24, 2019, 10:39:13 AM
I'll go ahead and finish the front up when I get back into town. Do you know if you can spray non-epoxy on an epoxy primer?
I have, just let the epoxy cure and then top coat it. 2K epoxy is a good undercoat for a lot of stuff.
It's looking pretty good with the new pad. Big thanks to Mitch for helping me out with a really nice non-a/c pad. I'm gonna try to get the front of the frame sprayed sometime this weekend.
Did the self-etching primer on the ash tray today. I had to help the ole lady out with a project so I didn't get much time in the garage.
Got a nice Kicker 4x10 for the dash for $10 from a friend. I'm looking for the mesh that goes between the speaker and the frame if anyone has any ideas. I've seen one in a picture but I'm not certain they had it from the factory.
Doing a little experimenting with different paints. Here's some SEM trim black. Still a bit too shiny. Might try a matte clear over it.
Quote from: rikubot on July 07, 2019, 10:14:50 AM
Doing a little experimenting with different paints. Here's some SEM trim black. Still a bit too shiny. Might try a matte clear over it.
Let it sit for a couple of days, it may dull down as the paint cures.
I was wondering if it might. I'll give her a little cure time and reassess.
Update: the paint matted up just a little bit. The front of my dash won't have quite the texture of yours or the factory style but I'm okay with that. Waiting on a can of paint.
I've been trying to come up with a way to play music in the car without a head unit. I came across this this Bluetooth amplifier that links directly to your phone. I'm going to link this up to the dash speaker, two 6x9s I'm back, and hopefully a small sub. A review I watched said I can run a sub so I'll see what happens. I'm thinking about hollowing out the radio and mounting it there but it's so small I could put it just about anywhere, and it has an extension for the Bluetooth antenna.
I ended up stripping and painting that middle pad. It came out looking brand new so I will probably do the others. Just have to finish scuffing the primer then shooting the front of the frame then I can put some stuff on it. It won't have the factory correct texture but I think it will look pretty good.
Quote from: rikubot on July 17, 2019, 03:17:27 PM
I ended up stripping and painting that middle pad. It came out looking brand new so I will probably do the others. Just have to finish scuffing the primer then shooting the front of the frame then I can put some stuff on it. It won't have the factory correct texture but I think it will look pretty good.
:2thumbs:
Here's my current set up for the sound system. Just doing a little bench testing with some makeshift equipment. That little 4x10 wakes up the house if nothing else is wired in. I was quite impressed!
Got the frame painted. The sandblasting texture came through after the paint and looks pretty close to factory, believe it or not. I'm happy with how it came out. It dried to the touch quickly so I put some of the finishing parts on it just to see what it will look like :2thumbs:
One more for the night.
Here's a better picture of the dash as it sits right now. It is about 90% finished but still needs a new upper pad, some chrome detailing on the bezel, the top refinished, and some failsafes added to the wiring. I think it will look pretty good in the car. Thanks for all of the help, everyone!
Looking good!
:2thumbs:
Thank you guys :cheers:
Dino, I had made you a drawing for all the help you've given me and I have t gotten around to finishing it, but here is one version. I am not sure if I like the font but it is 100% hand drawn:
Also I ran it through a filter on my phone just to see what it would do and it came out like this.
I've got the dash harness wired into the dash. It's a new harness from M&H and I was wondering what kind of failsafes could be built in to help make the system safer. I know that the amp meter is a huge issue. I'm curious to hear what you have done or what I should do with my dash. The heater control wiring is in great shape and I'd like to keep it that way so any advice is appreciated. Most of the backlighting bulbs have been changed to LEDs which I know run cooler and pull less power.
Quote from: rikubot on July 30, 2019, 10:36:34 AM
Thank you guys :cheers:
Dino, I had made you a drawing for all the help you've given me and I have t gotten around to finishing it, but here is one version. I am not sure if I like the font but it is 100% hand drawn:
Also I ran it through a filter on my phone just to see what it would do and it came out like this.
Cheers buddy! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Came out nice! If you still need to cover the speaker, I'd just use some grill cloth. Pretty cheap, can be cut to fit, and useful for other projects as well.
Thanks Texas! That's a great idea for the speaker. I can do the same for the rear under the package tray as well.
I'm back with another question :icon_smile_big:
I have a small hole under my dash near the ignition. I'm wondering if it is a stock thing or if it's just another hole the previous owner drilled into the car. Here it is in the picture:
Here's what I've got going on right now. Wiring up a Bluetooth amp to the dash speaker, two package tray speakers, and an 8" subwoofer. It sounds pretty good outside of the car so I'm hoping it sounds good in the car as well.
I added a toggle switch for the sound system and replaced the cigarette lighter with a dual USB charging port. The ash tray insert looked out of place with the raw galvanized finished so i sandblasted and painted it. I also painted the glovebox door with SEM vinyl paint. It looked a little dull next to the other freshly painted pad. I'll most likely do the other two now.
Quote from: rikubot on September 21, 2020, 01:08:29 AM
I added a toggle switch for the sound system and replaced the cigarette lighter with a dual USB charging port. The ash tray insert looked out of place with the raw galvanized finished so i sandblasted and painted it. I also painted the glovebox door with SEM vinyl paint. It looked a little dull next to the other freshly painted pad. I'll most likely do the other two now.
Use an application of something like Armour All on the dull piece, it will add a little shine and protection to the finish. The more ArmorAll you use the more shine you get.
Not a fan of ArmorAll because it is somewhat greasy.
Quote from: blakemon on September 25, 2020, 02:12:18 AM
Not a fan of ArmorAll because it is somewhat greasy.
Yes, because it has silicone in it. It feels slick bust won' t come off on your cloths if you wipe it down really well. i also use it as a lubricant on window felts when a window is hard to roll up and down.
About 99% finished!
Well Done! like the USB in place of the lighter!
- Grill Mesh...Where is that sold?
Quote from: AKcharger on October 03, 2020, 08:00:47 AM
Well Done! like the USB in place of the lighter!
- Grill Mesh...Where is that sold?
Thank ya! For the speaker mesh stuff I was told anything you'd cover speakers with would work. There's a few options on eBay, some better than others. That's what I was gonna try.
Quote from: rikubot on September 02, 2020, 12:57:36 AM
I'm back with another question :icon_smile_big:
I have a small hole under my dash near the ignition. I'm wondering if it is a stock thing or if it's just another hole the previous owner drilled into the car. Here it is in the picture:
4 speed reverse light indicator hole?
Quote from: BLK 68 R/T on October 11, 2020, 11:25:37 PM
Quote from: rikubot on September 02, 2020, 12:57:36 AM
I'm back with another question :icon_smile_big:
I have a small hole under my dash near the ignition. I'm wondering if it is a stock thing or if it's just another hole the previous owner drilled into the car. Here it is in the picture:
4 speed reverse light indicator hole?
That's gotta be it. Does that mean my dash went to a 4-speed car at one point or are they all stamped like that?
Or a guy on assembly line mistakenly grabbed a 4 speed dash installed it and then saw build sheet and said..."screw it, it's fine"
Hahaha just one more way to confuse me on the history of my car.
If it was the reverse light for a 4-speed, the hole would be on the more verticle part of the dash, almost to the lower pad, and not on the horizontal/bottom part of the frame.
Hmmm? Yeah it does look like that in the picture. It's all on the u derailed flat part. The mystery continues...
Great thread! Looks awesome! Thanks for all the detail! :cheers:
Quote from: BLK 68 R/T on October 11, 2020, 11:25:37 PM
Quote from: rikubot on September 02, 2020, 12:57:36 AM
I'm back with another question :icon_smile_big:
I have a small hole under my dash near the ignition. I'm wondering if it is a stock thing or if it's just another hole the previous owner drilled into the car. Here it is in the picture:
4 speed reverse light indicator hole?
If not mentioned: Rear speaker on/off toggle switch possibly
Quote from: 1970Moparmann on December 06, 2020, 01:48:47 PM
Great thread! Looks awesome! Thanks for all the detail! :cheers:
Thank you sir 🙏 :cheers:
Quote from: Domino on December 07, 2020, 01:20:26 PM
Quote from: BLK 68 R/T on October 11, 2020, 11:25:37 PM
Quote from: rikubot on September 02, 2020, 12:57:36 AM
I'm back with another question :icon_smile_big:
I have a small hole under my dash near the ignition. I'm wondering if it is a stock thing or if it's just another hole the previous owner drilled into the car. Here it is in the picture:
4 speed reverse light indicator hole?
If not mentioned: Rear speaker on/off toggle switch possibly
I hadnt thought of that. I wasn't aware they had a rear speaker shut off. I thought it might be rear window defroster but that is up under the dash pad.
Quote from: rikubot on September 02, 2020, 12:57:36 AM
I'm back with another question :icon_smile_big:
I have a small hole under my dash near the ignition. I'm wondering if it is a stock thing or if it's just another hole the previous owner drilled into the car. Here it is in the picture:
that might be for the rear speaker fader switch..