How can I remove the vinyl top trim and side body trim without damaging anything else?
Im like a few weeks out from starting my metal work, and need to take this trim off, I wont be reusing any of the trim besides around the windows :popcrn:
Thanks,
Shaun
There are fasteners (speed nuts) on the backside of the trim. Remove them. :yesnod: :shruggy:
Once the speed nuts are removed, you can pry up on the stainless vinyl top trim to remove it. If you're afraid of damaging anything, try using a plastic body filler spreader to pry the trim up. Or, you can squeeze the spring clips that hold it in place from inside the trunk.
What else do you have to remove without damage??
The trim around the windows. Mainly around the front windshie area. ;Dld
Thanks for the help!
You'll need a windshield trim removal tool.
There are several designs. Here is one example:
http://www.dkhardware.com/product-29151-kd2038-auto-glass-molding-release-tool.html
Awesome. so its not held on by nuts or anything?
nope, all by clips. :2thumbs:
Cool. I went to pick up the tool, and they had to order it. Should this cover the chrome on the drip rails and rear window as well?
the rear window is clips also. the tool should work for that also. the drip rail chrome is not held on by clips. when putting it on it just clips itself into place. so removing, you gently persuade it from the bottom side pushing away from the window. after clearing the lip, lift up. it will roll off. remove the front small angled piece near the top of the windshield first. it will over lap the other two pieces.
Quote from: nvrbdn on May 02, 2012, 08:55:48 AM
the rear window is clips also. the tool should work for that also. the drip rail chrome is not held on by clips. when putting it on it just clips itself into place. so removing, you gently persuade it from the bottom side pushing away from the window. after clearing the lip, lift up. it will roll off. remove the front small angled piece near the top of the windshield first. it will over lap the other two pieces.
:thumbs: Should have my tool today, so we will find out. Thanks guys
Go slow with that tool and don't put too much pressure on it. It's a great tool but I've seen impatient people ruin the glass, the trim, the paint and the damn tool in 2 seconds flat!
Once you see how it works it's a breeze. I used to put some masking tape on it so not to scratch anything.
Awesome. got the drivers side off, and vinyl trim off passenger. Started sanding on the passenger, was using a harbor freight RO sander, it took forever, so went and got a DeWalt orbiting sander... wow fast. Gonna get it sanded down on rear quarters first. Im finding some hidden prizes... BONDO! lol
Ill keep you guys posted.
Is the vinyl top trim that you took off in good shape ?
Yes. Great shape
Quote from: 440 on May 25, 2012, 02:59:09 AM
Is the vinyl top trim that you took off in good shape ?
Someone used a dent puller on it at some time. I was wondering, do you guys think I can pop these out? or should I just replace with a half quarter?
Just wondering, would love feedback :)
Personally, i would replace the complete quarter,but it depends on you budget.
Quote from: Back N Black on May 27, 2012, 02:03:37 PM
Personally, i would replace the complete quarter,but it depends on you budget.
Why?? From the looks of it theres hardly much wrong with that quarter
Also, things could go quicker for ya with some aircraft paint remover and a putty knife, than sand down whats left. Bit messy but it gets the job done quick.
Under the turn signal light, it has cancer. but all the lower lines have been dent pulled. above the deck lid level is perfect. I was thinking a half quarter? or do you guys think I can tap these out?
Herse the drivers side. Im thinking Im gonna go with two half quarters. Feedback?
What half quarters???
Get some metal and patch it in, those look great!
Maybe just need the VERY lower part? Hard to tell.
They have been dent pulled on both quarters, then covered with inch and a half of bondo, just a route I'd rather not take. Heres what I was thinking, but I havnt made up my mind for sure.
Lower parts for sure, it is cancerus under turn signals
Keep as much original metal as you can. Those quarters look pretty good.
What should I do to the spots where the dent pulls are? and I feel like the middle body line is gone on the passenger side how could I recover this?, without using a crap load of bondo :)
Got the rear window out today... I am very spontaneous :coolgleamA:
And found a problem. I dont think AMD makes these, who else might? Should I just make a replacement?
The drivers side is gone
Here are the pics
Not sure if it's your picture angle or not, but is the passenger side quarter panel caved in about 8 inches behind the rear tire area?? :shruggy: :scope:
Seems there are a lot of trouble areas with the passenger quarter. Looks like it needs quite a bit of metal work. If it's caved in that far the metal is likely stretched, which could mean a difficult repair.
If a whole quarter is beyond your means, then perhaps a good skin replacement would do the trick.
The driver's quarter doesn't look too bad. If that lower patch was replaced properly then you might be good to go. Otherwise you may want to remove that patch just to see if there is any cancer behind it & treat it so there are no problems down the road. Replace the lower then with new metal.
:2thumbs:
Quote from: bill440rt on June 01, 2012, 10:48:08 PM
Not sure if it's your picture angle or not, but is the passenger side quarter panel caved in about 8 inches behind the rear tire area?? :shruggy: :scope:
Seems there are a lot of trouble areas with the passenger quarter. Looks like it needs quite a bit of metal work. If it's caved in that far the metal is likely stretched, which could mean a difficult repair.
If a whole quarter is beyond your means, then perhaps a good skin replacement would do the trick.
The driver's quarter doesn't look too bad. If that lower patch was replaced properly then you might be good to go. Otherwise you may want to remove that patch just to see if there is any cancer behind it & treat it so there are no problems down the road. Replace the lower then with new metal.
:2thumbs:
It has been wrecked bad, or several times ob the passenger rear quarter, then dent pulled, so I believe it to have been that badly caved in before. I am gonna replace it with a quarter skin, and salvage whats good for patches on the sail panel. I figured it turned a evil into a decent save.
Still, when the metal gets here, I will be asking questions here :)
Put a new skin on the passenger and use the good metal from the old quarter to patch the driver side
ive got a skin. :scratchchin: ive even got most of the drivers side. :scratchchin: but im in illinois very close to monster mopar in madison il. :yesnod: :scratchchin:
Quote from: nvrbdn on June 04, 2012, 10:40:43 AM
ive got a skin. :scratchchin: ive even got most of the drivers side. :scratchchin: but im in illinois very close to monster mopar in madison il. :yesnod: :scratchchin:
I already placed my metal order... :( but thanks for the offer. and Im in northeast oklahoma :/ Ive got a new passenger side coming, many floor pans, etc... Im hoping to be driving by the fall :thumbs:
dang, sorry for delaying. mine are cheap. northeast ok. my brother in law is in broken arrow right by tulsa.
That piece that is rotted out by the window your gonna have to fab, I was hesitant to replace the full quarters on my car (I could have gotten by with skins) but after taking the dutchman panel off and seeing more rust than I thought the only true proper way is to replace it all because that rear pinchweld will hide a ton of rust!!
Yea, I figured. I think Im gonna just fab it outta the used quarters I take off, Ive got some ideas brewing :D
Started cutting out the trunk some. Any major tips I should watch out for?
F.Y.I. my lineup in this department is: trunk halfs, left and right, trunk pan extensions left, and right, trunk pan support kit, quarter skins, left and right
Is there a certain order these should be done?
:2thumbs:
That has got to be the suckiest part of ANY restoration. Looks like you got a good start there.
Quote from: Cooter on September 17, 2012, 11:27:16 AM
:2thumbs:
That has got to be the suckiest part of ANY restoration. Looks like you got a good start there.
Thanks man. its already cut me several times. lol
How can I take these off without tearing up the tail light bar?
Yes drill out the spot welds When you reinstall it just plug weld the holes use a peice of copper on the back
Quote from: Dmichels on September 18, 2012, 05:21:41 PM
Yes drill out the spot welds When you reinstall it just plug weld the holes use a peice of copper on the back
Spot weld cutter works the best. Your local bodyshop can get you some. Drill bit works as well.
Will I HAVE to spot weld the new back in? Or am I looking at plug welding?
if plug is it, what do I do? lol
P.S.
Getting progress done feels amazing! :cheers:
Plug welding is what the factory did. The equipment to do plug welding can be pretty pricey. Same way with having someone plug weld it for you. Spot welding is alright for the job and is what everyone normally does, especially if they're on a budget. Tip for welding thin stuff; space out your welds every inch or so. It keeps you from warping your metal. When you weld your seams, same technique.
Glad your having fun! :2thumbs:
Quote from: stroker400 wedge on September 18, 2012, 10:33:43 PM
Plug welding is what the factory did. The equipment to do plug welding can be pretty pricey. Same way with having someone plug weld it for you. Spot welding is alright for the job and is what everyone normally does, especially if they're on a budget. Tip for welding thin stuff; space out your welds every inch or so. It keeps you from warping your metal. When you weld your seams, same technique.
Glad your having fun! :2thumbs:
I already have a MIG. Anything I can do with that? :scratchchin:
Best thing to start with. You can do your spot welding with that. Like I said, space yours spot welds about and inch to inch and a half apart so you don't warp your panels. When you do your butt welds, do the same thing. Wait about 30 secs to allow your metal to cool.
Quote from: stroker400 wedge link=topic=91241.msg1087834#msg1087834 You can do your spot welding with that.
/quote]
Awesome. whats the method on this? drill out new spaces for spot welds? :scratchchin:
Quote from: SmashingPunkFan on September 19, 2012, 09:10:44 AM
Quote from: stroker400 wedge link=topic=91241.msg1087834#msg1087834 You can do your spot welding with that.
/quote]
Awesome. whats the method on this? drill out new spaces for spot welds? :scratchchin:
Yes, drill your holes. space them about an inch apart, or measure the distance between your spot welds on your original panels. You might want to coat the inside of your framerails with some weld proof primer.
Quote from: stroker400 wedge on September 19, 2012, 11:08:05 AM
Quote from: SmashingPunkFan on September 19, 2012, 09:10:44 AM
Quote from: stroker400 wedge link=topic=91241.msg1087834#msg1087834 You can do your spot welding with that.
/quote]
Awesome. whats the method on this? drill out new spaces for spot welds? :scratchchin:
Yes, drill your holes. space them about an inch apart, or measure the distance between your spot welds on your original panels. You might want to coat the inside of your framerails with some weld proof primer.
is this the kinda opportunity I should take advantage of, and sand blast, or soda blast the rails?
And my old pans are completely gone, I shaved them out with the air hammer.
Quote from: SmashingPunkFan on September 19, 2012, 12:06:27 PM
Quote from: stroker400 wedge on September 19, 2012, 11:08:05 AM
Quote from: SmashingPunkFan on September 19, 2012, 09:10:44 AM
Quote from: stroker400 wedge link=topic=91241.msg1087834#msg1087834 You can do your spot welding with that.
/quote]
Awesome. whats the method on this? drill out new spaces for spot welds? :scratchchin:
Yes, drill your holes. space them about an inch apart, or measure the distance between your spot welds on your original panels. You might want to coat the inside of your framerails with some weld proof primer.
is this the kinda opportunity I should take advantage of, and sand blast, or soda blast the rails?
And my old pans are completely gone, I shaved them out with the air hammer.
I strongly recommend it. That's what several people are doing. It does help keep you from having some issues later.
I'd just measure out every inch to an inch and a half for your weld spacing. It's only on your rails and supports that you need to spot weld. You will have to do a solid weld where you have a butt weld. Just don't to one continuous weld. You will have to do spot welds and just keep going back until it's fully welded.
Quote from: stroker400 wedge on September 19, 2012, 12:14:28 PM
Quote from: SmashingPunkFan on September 19, 2012, 12:06:27 PM
Quote from: stroker400 wedge on September 19, 2012, 11:08:05 AM
Quote from: SmashingPunkFan on September 19, 2012, 09:10:44 AM
Quote from: stroker400 wedge link=topic=91241.msg1087834#msg1087834 You can do your spot welding with that.
/quote]
Awesome. whats the method on this? drill out new spaces for spot welds? :scratchchin:
Yes, drill your holes. space them about an inch apart, or measure the distance between your spot welds on your original panels. You might want to coat the inside of your framerails with some weld proof primer.
is this the kinda opportunity I should take advantage of, and sand blast, or soda blast the rails?
And my old pans are completely gone, I shaved them out with the air hammer.
I strongly recommend it. That's what several people are doing. It does help keep you from having some issues later.
I'd just measure out every inch to an inch and a half for your weld spacing. It's only on your rails and supports that you need to spot weld. You will have to do a solid weld where you have a butt weld. Just don't to one continuous weld. You will have to do spot welds and just keep going back until it's fully welded.
So where it meets the wheel wells?
where it meets the trunk pan extension, its spot welded
The part that caps off the end of the frame rails is spot welded.
Whooo... I need some suggestions lol
Is soda blasting better? or is media blasting better?
And for spot welds. Is it better to weld on the old spot welds? or can they land anywhere?
Anyone wanna share some pics on this process? :)
Media blasting is more aggressive than soda blasting. Soda blasting uses an industrial baking soda. Media uses anything from walnut shells to glass beads to the slag out of the furnaces from electrical plants.
As far as welding, they could technically go anywhere, but putting them on metal is better.
As far as pics, you'd have to browse some old threads. I have, and remember seeing some, but don't remember which ones. Also, 69hemi.com has plenty of pics. It might be wortha look. :2thumbs:
Done some looking. Ryan is the one you need to be talking to. He tore his down that far and maybe farther. He has pics on here.
Quote from: stroker400 wedge on September 21, 2012, 06:03:19 AM
Media blasting is more aggressive than soda blasting. Soda blasting uses an industrial baking soda. Media uses anything from walnut shells to glass beads to the slag out of the furnaces from electrical plants.
As far as welding, they could technically go anywhere, but putting them on metal is better.
As far as pics, you'd have to browse some old threads. I have, and remember seeing some, but don't remember which ones. Also, 69hemi.com has plenty of pics. It might be wortha look. :2thumbs:
Done some looking. Ryan is the one you need to be talking to. He tore his down that far and maybe farther. He has pics on here.
Awesome. And as far as the welding goes, I mean should I get the pan lined up where I want it, clamp it done good, and drill through the frame rail and it? :o
Get all your panels lined up and fitting the way you like them. Use some screws or some clecos to help you out. Clecos are what is used in the aircraft industry to temporary fit pieces together. After you get all your pieces fitting to your liking, then you drill your pans and weld them to your rails. Like I said, Ryan looks like the one you need to talk to.
Check out this site, if you haven't yet- http://www.69hemi.com/sheet.html
Great pics and descriptions of how he did his work.
Quote from: areibel on September 21, 2012, 07:36:41 PM
Check out this site, if you haven't yet- http://www.69hemi.com/sheet.html
Great pics and descriptions of how he did his work.
Nice! I like it, just needs more pics, and possibly better quality.
Heres some of my progress from today
Yay!!
I ended up using the drill. The spot weld cutter was sketchy at best, and it broke!!
:icon_smile_angry:
Well, sorry about the spot weld cutter. Progress looks good. When are you going to blast your rails? I'm ready to see some pretty new stuff in the trunk. Gotta have a place to throw all the junk. :icon_smile_big:
Quote from: stroker400 wedge on September 22, 2012, 11:02:48 PM
Well, sorry about the spot weld cutter. Progress looks good. When are you going to blast your rails? I'm ready to see some pretty new stuff in the trunk. Gotta have a place to throw all the junk. :icon_smile_big:
Right! lol
Im hoping to be welding here in a few weeks, maybe sooner! any special primers? sealers I should use?
On the rails I meant
Sweet. You are where I was with my 68 about one year ago. Here's a pic of my trunk. I didn't have to replace the trunk floor extensions. I did have to replace part of the bottom of the wheel wells. I have a 72 parts charger and used some pieces from that.
I sand blasted the frame rails. The applied a nice coat of SEM rust inhibitor. After letting them dry I sprayed the inside of the rails with the rubberized under coating. I taped off the top of the rails to keep them clean. Then sprayed a light coat of weld thru primer on the tops of the rails before installing the trunk pan.
This is a pic of my trunk rails
Awesome. Im having to replace the trunk extensions. I think ima wait to weld thos in while my rear quarters are off.
As mentioned earlier in the thread. Clamp and screw everything together before you turn your welder on. Don't ask me how I know ::)
Quote from: NHCharger on September 24, 2012, 08:35:33 PM
As mentioned earlier in the thread. Clamp and screw everything together before you turn your welder on. Don't ask me how I know ::)
Okie dokie.
I got every ounce of pan outta there today. Tomorrow Im gonna clean up the rails, maybe sand blast some... Im trying to get atleast one or two things done a day. :D
Quote from: NHCharger on September 22, 2012, 11:27:09 PM
Sweet. You are where I was with my 68 about one year ago. Here's a pic of my trunk. I didn't have to replace the trunk floor extensions. I did have to replace part of the bottom of the wheel wells. I have a 72 parts charger and used some pieces from that.
I sand blasted the frame rails. The applied a nice coat of SEM rust inhibitor. After letting them dry I sprayed the inside of the rails with the rubberized under coating. I taped off the top of the rails to keep them clean. Then sprayed a light coat of weld thru primer on the tops of the rails before installing the trunk pan.
This is a pic of my trunk rails
That product you mentioned, where can I get it? and possibly weld thru primer?
A lot of automotive paint supply stores will carry SEM products. The stuff I use by SEM is called Rust Inhibitor. I also used it on the back side of the bumpers for my other Chargers. Another place was the back side of the rear valance and valance caps on my 68 project. On the lower half of the valance once you install it there is no way to coat/paint the back side. I'm also brushing it on all the floors in my 68. I intend to install a sound deadener/heat barrier on the floors and firewall so it will all be covered up.
The weld through primer is also an SEM product. Word of caution. I only applied one light coat on the rails. With two coats I had trouble with the welding popping and not laying down very good.
Quote from: NHCharger on September 30, 2012, 07:20:37 PM
A lot of automotive paint supply stores will carry SEM products. The stuff I use by SEM is called Rust Inhibitor. I also used it on the back side of the bumpers for my other Chargers. Another place was the back side of the rear valance and valance caps on my 68 project. On the lower half of the valance once you install it there is no way to coat/paint the back side. I'm also brushing it on all the floors in my 68. I intend to install a sound deadener/heat barrier on the floors and firewall so it will all be covered up.
The weld through primer is also an SEM product. Word of caution. I only applied one light coat on the rails. With two coats I had trouble with the welding popping and not laying down very good.
Thank you good sir.
I am gonna look into these options, just getting the next round lined up.
Since Im waiting on that for the trunk, I got some front end prepped today, working my way to the k frame for the torn subframe repair.
Quote from: NHCharger on September 30, 2012, 07:20:37 PM
A lot of automotive paint supply stores will carry SEM products. The stuff I use by SEM is called Rust Inhibitor. I also used it on the back side of the bumpers for my other Chargers. Another place was the back side of the rear valance and valance caps on my 68 project. On the lower half of the valance once you install it there is no way to coat/paint the back side. I'm also brushing it on all the floors in my 68. I intend to install a sound deadener/heat barrier on the floors and firewall so it will all be covered up.
The weld through primer is also an SEM product. Word of caution. I only applied one light coat on the rails. With two coats I had trouble with the welding popping and not laying down very good.
Another option would be Eastwood. I get a lot of stuff through them just for the convenience of online ordering and shipping to my door. If you search Google, you can usually find codes for free shipping as well. In fact, I just ordered all of the products mentioned above from them Monday for a few projects that I have in the works.
I couldnt find weld thru primer, would self etching primer be ok? Someone told me it was close enough ? Is it?
Quote from: SmashingPunkFan on October 10, 2012, 01:23:39 PM
I couldnt find weld thru primer, would self etching primer be ok? Someone told me it was close enough ? Is it?
Did you check with the welders in your area?
No. Closest one is about 60 miles away, Ill have to the next time I head that direction.
And Ive heard several different things about what should be sprayed inside the frame rails, what would be anyones best guess as to what should be right on top of bare metal?
I believe most people are using epoxy primer. Just don't spray it on top of the rails where you're going to weld on.
Quote from: SmashingPunkFan on October 10, 2012, 08:11:26 PM
And Ive heard several different things about what should be sprayed inside the frame rails, what would be anyones best guess as to what should be right on top of bare metal?
You will get several different answers on this. If you don't use the SEM rust inhibitor you can use a good sealer that is made to be applied directly to metal, then paint or some type of undercoating.
I got some weld thru primer. Oreillys was my friend in this one
Now Im thinking about just shooting the rails with self etch primer. is that kinda what factory was like?
Took time to make my patch panel for the wheel well. Kinda creepy makin that first cut on the quarter panel
Needing some help before I adjust the car too much!!
Ive heard somewhere before that you cannot move the car once you cut the 1/4s off, so Im trying make sure that Ive set it up right.
I have it setup where the jackstands are under the rear axle, and one under each lower control arm.
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated! :)
Quote from: SmashingPunkFan on February 12, 2013, 02:19:43 PM
Needing some help before I adjust the car too much!!
Ive heard somewhere before that you cannot move the car once you cut the 1/4s off, so Im trying make sure that Ive set it up right.
I have it setup where the jackstands are under the rear axle, and one under each lower control arm.
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated! :)
1/4's are just skin, if it really was part of the support structure it would buckle quite a bit. Quarters off don't do anything to the car UNLESS everything else rotted away and all that kep the car together was the skin.
If you plan on cutting off more then I suggest you weld a few cross braces in there. Frame to frame, left to right, high to low. Now it really won't budge.
Ahh ok. Well Ive just heard that alot, and was wondering. I also have the complete trunk pan out right now, Im gonna blast, cover, then maybe remove the 1/4s blast there and then start welding in reverse order.
Btw anybody know how to remove the the little piece of chrome at the back of the rear window? It has some sort of chrome stud in ti :scratchchin:
why don`t you brace it all up just in case ! better safe than sorry ???
I have seen some of these guys cut it all off and put it back together !!
Oh I did. Its jacked under the rear axle and lower control arms. Would those be the correct places to put them?
Quote from: SmashingPunkFan on February 17, 2013, 11:29:56 PM
Btw anybody know how to remove the the little piece of chrome at the back of the rear window? It has some sort of chrome stud in it :scratchchin:
there are nuts on the inside of the trunk... those self-cutting, cone-looking things....climb inside there and you'll see them...
Quote from: SmashingPunkFan on February 19, 2013, 11:18:10 AM
Oh I did. Its jacked under the rear axle and lower control arms. Would those be the correct places to put them?
Yes that is correct. You want the car to be supported as if it was on wheels.